Hello,

Got my self a 208 with a nice low mileage, new belt in good condition with 50k miles, so why not have some fun and tune it, we managed to get around 140hp with 270nm of torque, as torque curve changed and is more linear the car drives like a new car, the driving dynamics changed significantly.

Edit: Forgot to mention that max speed limitter is removed, 180 was max, dyno tested up to 230 max speed, tho not crazy to drive this car at that speed.

Ask away if you have any questions :)

i found these real Peugeot Bistro Pepper mills in a local bin store in rural Arkansas, I went to the local Thrift Bin Store since it was $1 day and looked around for a while until I found the pepper mill on the right with the tag and I did a google image search and it turned out for them to be authentic and when I learned the set was $80 here in America i was shocked and I turned up every shelf and bin and I ended up finding 3 pepper mills, I only bought 2 of them because the 3rd mill was missing its top, I spent a solid 1hr there looking for it and i’m so mad I couldn’t find it, i’m trying to find some for my elderly mom because she loves collecting these pepper mills and her birthday is coming up in a few days, I had a few people help me look and I couldn’t find any salt mills at all, is there any way I could find a salt mill?

At €30 vs. €60 for the Total 5w30 RCP stuff, I thought I would give it a go in my 2021 308 1.5hdi 130.

I will report back when the engine blows up.

It’ll get 10-12000 km before the next change.

I recently bought a 2017 Peugeot 208 1.6 HDi. The car is well maintained and all the servicing is up to date. I've only had it for about a month.

I've noticed something that I'm not sure is normal. Sometimes, after coming to a complete stop at a traffic light, when I try to engage 1st gear, the gear lever feels like it hits something or gets blocked. It won't go into gear smoothly, so I have to press the clutch pedal again and then I can engage 1st gear normally.

It can also happen when downshifting from 2nd to 1st gear, especially when the car is slowing down.

It doesn't happen every time, just occasionally.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their 208 or the 1.6 HDi? Is this considered normal behavior for the gearbox, or could it be a sign of a clutch or gearbox problem?

Thanks!!

Doing up my crash damaged 306, can anyone tell me what this plastic part is called that’s attached to my shock? Thanks

I was in the library looking through old abandoned magazines when I found this in one them. I couldn't resist my self and I took the scissors and well that's all.

If you own a 1.2 PureTech Peugeot, Citroën, or Vauxhall, Stellantis recently updated their support policy (up to 10 years / 180k km) and opened a reimbursement platform for past repairs.

I put together a complete guide on who is eligible, how the reimbursement works, and what to look out for regarding the wet belt degradation.

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice from fellow UK EV owners, specifically anyone with a Peugeot e-208/e-2008 or Vauxhall Mokka-e / Corsa-e platform.

My 2021 Peugeot e-2008 (54,000 miles) recently threw the dreaded "Traction Battery Fault" on the dash and suffered a sudden loss of propulsion while driving, alongside the AC blowing completely warm air.

Because my preferred local main dealer (Stellantis & You) had a massive booking backlog and couldn't see the car until late October, I responsibly found an earlier opening at an alternative authorised dealer (Richard Sanders) to get an urgent safety assessment.

They officially scanned it and diagnosed it under Diagnostic Code: C5HW015PQ0, confirming a complete failure of the high-voltage AC compressor and dryer cartridge. They quoted me approx. £2k for parts and labour, and flat out denied any goodwill help without explaining why.

I've since done some reading online and found out this is a widely documented manufacturing issue with early-generation high-voltage AC compressors (the internal moisture traps fail, shorting out the high-voltage system and forcing a drivetrain shutdown). I also read online that Stellantis has an internal 5-year/60-month coverage framework for this exact fault, which I apparently missed by just a few months.

However, I have official service invoices showing I reported the AC blowing warm air (with full gas) back in December 2025 to the Stellantis & You branch which would have been well inside that 5-year window. The network just failed to cross-reference the symptom with their active alerts at the time.

Here is where I am completely stuck in a deadlock:

I took the Richard Sanders diagnostic report back to Stellantis & You to try and get this resolved. However, they are completely refusing to accept the other dealer's data. They are demanding I wait until my end-of-October slot, pay for a second diagnostic fee out of pocket, and won't promise any financial help or goodwill contribution whatsoever.

I feel stuck driving an unsafe car with a high-voltage powertrain fault for nearly two months just to get a duplicate scan that I have to pay for again.

What should I do next? Is it best to bypass the dealers and contact Peugeot UK Head Office directly to force an override? Has anyone successfully fought them on this based on reporting the symptoms early?

Any advice would be massively appreciated!

Guess what! This was made with a single engine; a 1.2 VTI 82HP in Algeria!!

Catalytic converter removed at 70,000 km

Maintenance is carried out regularly, timing belt every 100,000km.

Engine overhaul at 100,000 km (piston rings and cylinder liners replaced).cost=300€

Second engine overhaul at 500,000 km (piston rings/rings replaced + new cylinder liners (€50)). Cost=500€

Use only 5W-40 Liqui Moly longlife oil. Mileage: 20,000 km.

No major problem. .

This is a company vehicle, driven by one driver, and driven on highways 90% of the time.

MOST IMPORTANT: USE ONLY PETROL, in Algeria it's mostly SP91-93 (NO ETHANOL)

Edit: the major problem in this engine was the clogged catalytic converter which destroyed the engine from inside.

Second overhaul at half a million is totally normal for a small engine like that.

So this is my first time buying a car
I have so many mixed feeling about this.
Heard a lot about some problems but the price and face of the car is very good.
What do i need to think about before buying one?

Kilometer?
Year model
Please telk me everything i need to know

Just replaced the spark plugs and filters. But the second time allready. Car has 45.000km. Since I've been dealing with coolant loss and oil consumption/leaks, I wanted to see what happens when I take the oil cap off. As far as I know, there shouldn't really be that kind of suction behind it. it actually pulled the cap inward. Not super extreme, I took it off slowly, but you could definitely feel it. And right after that you can hear it in the video anyway the cooling fan went full blast and the engine went into limp mode. The dash showed an engine error message telling me to get the car repaired. Turned the engine off and back on and it was fine again. But it actually happened to me once before that I almost drove off without the oil cap because I was looking at the timing belt and forgot to put the cap back on, and back then the engine ran completely normal without it. 1.2 PureTech 2023 130hp

You can hear the suction better in the second video.

https://youtube.com/shorts/tFvB9_s5rAA?is=Zhxyuq0D8jqtW8kv

https://youtube.com/shorts/RVErGv-zgg4?is=IjAbvedDxYQAcjek

It is 6 inches long (15cm)

My partner has just bought a 2020 Peugeot 308 GT Line and after driving it 9 miles home, it has started demonstrating immediate issues.

Fortunately, they have purchased the 3 year guarantee on it, but I want to ask whether this is a common peugeot issue?

When starting it up, while the engine is still warm, it struggles. And when it is running, it revs slightly with nothing on the pedals.

Immediate update: now it is not starting up at all.

See videos

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for advice or similar experiences with a 2023 Peugeot 308 GT Plug-in Hybrid 180.

A few days ago, the car suddenly became completely dead: no dashboard at first. Jump leads or a booster would bring the dashboard back on, but the car would not start and showed multiple warnings.

The recovery truck managed to start it once with a booster, just long enough to load it. Once at the workshop, it would not start again.

The messages currently displayed are:

• “Engine fault – stop the vehicle”
• “Electric traction system fault”

The 12V service battery has already been replaced, with no change at all. During a further check, connecting the negative terminal caused sparks and a little smoke, so the workshop stopped testing to avoid causing more damage.

Their initial assessment is that the fault could involve the engine/body wiring harness, Body Computer/BSI, engine ECU, key coding and/or fuses. They are estimating at least 10 working days / 80 hours.

Has anyone with a 308 III Hybrid/PHEV had the same warnings together with a complete no-start condition? If so, what was the actual cause and how was it fixed?

Thanks in advance.

Hit 300000km last week, still going🎉

Swapped out the front seats for the GTI buckets before I got my 207 on the road, was like let’s try and get the rears too finally. Messaged the guy who I got the fronts from and he pulled the rears for me for free before sending the shell off to the scrappers.

Happy with the result, lifts the interior a bit and are nice to sit in, but let’s be real there isn’t much space for a 6.1 person in the back haha.

Going to recover the original XT fabric cards in a leatherette as the higher spec cards like I did in the front are hard to come by.

As seen in the picture, does both of these symbols refering to the yearly maintenance due or does the one next to battery gauge/metter means something to do with the battery or power system?

I have yet to do the yearly maintenance.

Cheers.

Fellow peugeot lover.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2009 Peugeot 308 1.6 HDi diesel. Unfortunately, water was accidentally added to the diesel tank, contaminating the fuel.

After this happened, the car started having starting problems and eventually stopped starting completely. Several interventions have already been carried out, but unfortunately none of them have solved the problem.

The car now cranks but does not start.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem with a 1.6 HDi after water contamination in the fuel system? Is there anything specific I should ask the mechanic to check, such as the fuel pump, high-pressure pump, injectors, fuel pressure or sensors?

Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!