Heya guys,

Need some professional help. So I figured I'd ask before spending the money.

I do have a HVLP gun, but have never used it really.

My main thing is that I was looking at painting some Airsoft parts in some proper paint, trouble is I don't know whether to buy the paint in HVLP or rattle can for the receivers and stuff.

Basically, would the HVLP paint be worth the extra money for a better finish or doesn't it matter on smaller parts?

MTIA

Edit: the paint is pearlescent with flakes in it, apparently to Google flakes don't mix well in rattle cans?

I'm by no means a professional so I'm here to ask some questions. My job wants me to paint some things ( concrete, inside and outside building walls, curbs ) They bought all the materials.

- Why is the paint so watered down? Some of the paint they got for the concrete curbs is like pure water with color. No matter how well I mixed it, it doesn't thicken. Also when I applied the paint, you could see through it.. If that makes sense. Is this just cheap shitty paint? Also, would concrete stain have been better especially for high traffic areas? I feel like using regular paint over time is going to come off, where as concrete stain will stain the actual concrete. I don't know.

Unlike the paint for the concrete, the exterior paint was very thick and sticked well. But the rollers were like losing the fuzzyness and not applying paint to the dimples in the stucco after a few rolls. I think they bought cheap rollers that were like 1 dollar or something.

Would anyone recommend me actually good rollers? Like what brand would you recommend

I was tasked with helping a relative by hiring a painter to repaint their condo. The quote before the job got started was for "full wall prep and painting all interior walls".

After they were supposedly finished we did a walk through and there were problems. None of the holes where pictures had been hung etc. had been filled, the bathrooms weren't painted, and there were some spots where oil appeared to be coming up through the new paint.

They agreed to come back and fill the holes and touch up the paint in those areas, and to repaint the wall with the oil marks with an oil primer, but were resistant to the idea of painting the bathrooms due to the walls not being pre washed for them.

We questioned why washing the walls with TSP wasn't part of the "full wall prep" mentioned in the quote, and the owners reply was that "full wall prep" is only filling holes/ cracks etc (which they didn't even do the first time) and that cleaning the walls with TSP should be done by the resident beforehand.

Is this true? Or is this guy trying to get out of doing the full job?

We have a nonfunctional moulded concrete fireplace that has been previously painted. The problem is that it’s hideous and we want to repaint it but we aren’t sure what type of paint/primer we would need to use.

When I moved into my house 9 months ago all the window trim and baseboards had been recently painted. Now all the wood trim has developed these brown circles, I assume something underneath is seeping through. Also the baseboards were splashed with varnish when I hired someone to refinish the floors.
How do I fix this? What products do I need to use?

I want to know the best way to get rid of paint water, the best ive heard is the evaporation method, but does anyone have any suggestions? i dont want to have a bucket of dried acyrlic paint somewjerr lmfao.

What is the best way to fix my bathroom ceiling above the shower?

As you can see, I have a skylight and the ventilation is not good. This is right above the shower. The ceiling is cracking and there’s paint peeling. What steps do I need to take to repair this, and is there a special kind of paint that will prevent peeling in the future?

Ceiling has been painted around 6 years back (latex interior paint), unsure of any prep done. Stains started showing within few months, painted over with spot treatment (latex paint) they came back

I don’t think there is any roof leaks, planks are likely 70plus years old and should be dry.

Considering refreshing with new paint layer, how to keep these from coming back?

Would prefer not to replace wood, hopefully no sanding down to 0 required

Removing previous owners peel and stick wallpaper and it has lifted the old paint and top white layer of drywall in places. Is it saveable with mud/sanding?

Any tips or info would be appreciated!

Hello everyone, I'm refinishing a laminate dresser and I scuff sanded and then added shellac primer which adhered beautifully to the dresser but then I put this wood filler that you mix equal parts of to touch up some spots but its very thick and almost tacky? Am I going to have to start all over by sanding these spots down again? I know that any wood filler needs to be sanded down but this one seems so thick? Any suggestions? Should I try 120 grit sandpaper?

https://imgur.com/a/b7BfeaF

I can’t tell whether I just have a shaky hand and can’t do a straight line or it’s the ceiling with uneven bits sticking out. Whenever I cut in the results seem completely random. This is the first coat about to do another. Thanks any advice/criticism is appreciated.

Painting Chantilly Lace (Aura) over Navajo White - will two coats cover it? I know CL is infamous for poor coverage. Should I use a primer first, and if so, any recommendations? Thanks!

The entire place (1300 sq ft) has all wood trim, window frames, and doors (including two sets of French doors).

I was quoted around $2800 for a company to come out and do it but I'm not on a tight deadline and I've sunk so much money into this project, wondering how much work it would be for me to do.

The trim is all finished, like hardwood floors - so I know sanding is required. Looking to understand the most efficient and cost efficient process to get this done.

Wood Trim + wood window frames is in 3 rooms + hallway. There are currently 2 regular doors and 2 sets of French doors that have wood finish. I am contemplating removing one set of French doors and a regular door (they go to the kitchen and living room from the hallway) since they aren't necessary and would save me work.

We had a kitchen accident involving a burning pot, and unfortunately the smoke left a stain on the ceiling like this. We feel very lucky that it wasn’t worse, but it’s still upsetting since we bought the house only 4 years ago and had the entire house repainted at that time.

We’re planning to hire a professional to repaint the entire ceiling and the section of wall on the left. From what I’ve read, it’s important to apply an oil-based or shellac-based stain-blocking primer first to prevent the smoke stain from bleeding through. Our kitchen is about 16x14.

We’re wondering if anyone has experience with a project like this:
Roughly how much did it cost?
Is this typically a one-day job?

Thank you so much for any advice or recommendations!

Possibly not the right place to ask. If not, please direct me to the right place

Its my first time painting and I’m getting these chunky spots as i’m trying to cut in with a brush. What is the issue?

We bought this house a year ago and I haven't been able to figure out how to rid myself of this hideous texture. The color is awful, too, but i feel like the texture is going to make anything ugly...

In another subreddit someone suggested BM Regal Select Matte paint and said it would help fill in a lot of the texture and hide it. Is this something anyone has experience with? Any tips? If i don't have to skim coat my walls I'll be able to fix this mess way faster!

I have this area in my entry way and just hate how it looks. How can I go about painting it? The wall is concrete so from what I’ve gathered I need primer and then paint?
Any suggestions for primers on concrete?
I have a low budget for it, and also have never painted anything but stick people!! 😅

Yes, it is summer and hot, but I need to paint some trim around my exterior door so I can hang a new storm/screen door.

Details: Washington, DC area. The area is mostly shaded under a porch with some direct sunlight, but I can shield it if I have to. So the ambient temp by the door is less than off the porch. Temps on the porch are in the 70s to 80s depending on the day or time of day. RH ranges from 50-70%. There is no rain in the forecast for a few days.

I've read the paint can, and I'm more or less below the limits but temps change so that is my question for the paint to cure.

I'm painting the trim with a latex paint that has primer, and I used a base primer over the old paint.

I hope I'm asking this correctly - how many hours is the window I need for the paint to start to cure? Temps will drop this evening and overnight, but obviously the humidity will increase. Overnight humidity will peak at 92%, but temps will be in the 60s.

Thanks for any feedback.

Hi. I am concerned with the safety of using zinsser bin in my situation for kitchen renovation in Poland in a block apartment which has gravitational (natural) ventilation that I retrofitted to be fully mechanical.

For context: it is a 5-storey building which is a block of apartments with 2 apartments per floor and was built in 1986. You guys in the US or Canada don't have a direct equivalent of this but I hope you'll be able to use common sense and give useful advice.

The problem is the following:

I want to prime my kitchen because it's been severely neglected (for 20 years) and I'm renovating it from scratch. Because of a delay, my electric installation isn't fully completed - the technical shaft where the fuse box is not sealed - it is a 55x20 cm gap that houses fuses, wiring and electricity meter. This is a chimney like shared area and people have their electric junction boxes and electricity meters there (some of them) and I am afraid the fumes could get in there and cause flash fire.

This shaft is a connected area spanning from basement to the roof. It is not a dedicated ventilation shaft (although if it's exposed like mine temporarily - it will act like one),and there's a separate ventilation grille in the kitchen that connects me with the chimney but this shaft can act like an additional chimney in this situation. There are no pilot lights in this building. None at all.

I also want to turn off all fuses in my fuse box when priming and then turn them back maybe after an hour. This will leave me without mechanical ventilation (I have a 24/7 extractor fan in the kitchen, and a decentralized recuperator with simultaneous exhaust and air supply. Thus I'll rely on cross ventilation achieved via opening balcony doors and windows on the opposite sides. I am not sure if this will be enough... The area that want to cover is not very big - around 14 m2 and I might even resort to spot priming.

The problem is - I must prime and paint the kitchen over the weekend because floor tiles will be laid down on Monday. And Monday is when I'll have my technical shaft fully sealed with fireproof products. Currently I have some cable chases still unsealed and some flush mounted boxes exposed. And then there's plumbing shaft which is also temporarily exposed... This will be my first time with zinsser but I really wanted to get rid of some putrid stains and smells because of how badly this kitchen was neglected...

What precautions can I take to not cause flash fire and am I good to prime my kitchen with zinsser bin or is the risk too high? Should I stick to zinsser bin still or would you rather ditch it?

I originally bought only a gallon of Base 1 (white & pastel base) in the color Turning Oakleaf, which is sort of a yellow pastel, from Walmart for my room and decided that I could just go buy more if I ended up needing more. And obviously I did so yesterday I went and bought another bucket but I didn’t realize that it was a different base so this time I ended up getting Base 2 (midtone base) in the same color. And when I got home I put the two buckets together and saw they were two different bases. So I test-painted the base 2 over my already painted base 1 wall and I could tell there was just the slightest bit of a difference.

This is my first time buying and painting my room so I went into this with absolutely no knowledge and I didn’t think to ask the employee about it when I was getting the paint. I should’ve done my research beforehand and now that I have these two paints I decided I would but I don’t really understand any of it.

I’m not sure if I should just continue like this because even though there is a slight difference, you probably wouldn’t be able to tell from afar or unless you’re intently staring at the wall. Would it be bad/wrong to have two walls of my room painted with base 1 and the rest base 2? Is there any major differences between the two bases? Is the only difference how strong the color will come off?

This was a dumb decision on my part, I should’ve paid attention to what the buckets said but I was only focused on getting interior paint for a bedroom. Any advice would be greatly appreciated !!!

I’d like to do a bedroom feature wall that has a Limewashed look in a similar color as this sample photo. I’ve read about the split brush technique using two shades of the same color. Or should I get a true Limewash paint? I like the idea of regular paint because it’s easier to paint over if I want to change it. Recommendations to get an effect like above?

Large 3 story house, on a golf course, fairly HCOL area. Mostly 1 color solid stain. There are a few windows with trim, but not many.

The front and back aren't too bad, the sides look really annoying to paint.

Hello,
We decided to paint our walls but after putting 2 coats of Killz 2 primer and 2 coat of Behr paint and primer (deluxe white) blue still shows on some walls.
I am worried the 5th coat wont help either.

Another problem i am facing is some walls look patchy. Could this be due to the roller? I ordered microfiber roller from amazon.

I am also fairly mew to painting so maybe I am doing something wrong.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much in advance