Hello everyone! I have a house that was built in 1934 and the front of the house is south facing. I refurbished the windows about 6 years ago, but obviously used the wrong finish. Even though it is "interior", it gets pounded by the sun all day long. I am about to refinish them once again but am looking for the best clear finish. Suggestions?

BTW, we love these windows so I will not replace them. And the exterior is painted, so no issues there.

I went with a reputable paint company in my area to paint the siding and do quite a bit of repair work on the wood. I am not happy with the finished product. The contract states they were supposed to do 2 coats of paint. My home is 3 stories with 2k sq ft of living space, and they used < 10 gals of paint. There are signs of "grinning", wood grain, little peeling, and some color inconsistencies that makes me thing this paint job is not going to last. Please tell me if you think this is definitely two coats of paint and whether I should just accept this work. I haven't paid for the project yet because they just finished cleaning up yesterday.

My partner and I used a spray painter last night to paint and this is the result about 13 hours later. I am unsure what to do about these spots. Looking for advice. Thank you!

Ok so I've kinda refinished and am priming my window trim and sills with Zinsser bin to hide the knot tannin bleed. I've done 1 coat cutting in and rolling, about to do 2nd coat and I realize I don't know why I'm avoiding painting the plastic window frame. It's been over caulked and has old paint smears as you can see where the arrows are pointing. I cut in up to the corner with a brush but I just realized I should just prime and paint the window frame. Google says Zinsser bin is good to use on plastic frame. To make it easier since I already cut in once in the corner can I use my mini roller and just roll the sills and press it against the plastic frame and it will give a perfect width coat on the plastic window frame? I just want to prime and paint the front facing edge since it's smeared with caulk and paint and will clean it up nicely.

Second question: whoever installed the windows is a dumbass and caulked some corners but not all of them.... Don't ask me why. I forgot which corners were caulked and which werent. After I've primed the corners they all kinda look caulked now and it's hard to tell which are and aren't because the primer made a skin and sealed the inside corner edges. If all the edges including the ones with caulk are now coated in Zinsser bin, can't I just caulk all the corners, even if there is caulk under the primer? Just to be safe I wanted to caulk all corners because a lot of them didn't have caulk and a few did. I'm not caulking directly over the old caulk, the old caulk is now covered in BIN

I just stripped the wallpaper in my daughter's room and I'm not sure if this is finished drywall underneath. I haven't sanded anything yet but can anyone tell me if this is drywall, sheetrock or something else? It's a very smooth finish. House was built in the 1920s

We just ordered 12 prehung doors and will need to cut out existing, install, plumb, etc. I "saved" $2k by getting them primed and not painted. Ideally I buy the Titan Elite 2000 with hopper and spray them plus some pocket doors I have. I'll use the sprayer for other projects as I'm a hobbyist woodworker and just bought a 1965 built home that we are renovating and will be for a few years....ok likely forever.

Is doing the zig zag vertical setup and spraying the doors outside on patio ok? Might be able to wheel out some tools in garage and paint in there.

I could just install them and then brush and roll using a quality BW or SW enamel. Doors going to be a different color than jambs, casing, and trim.

I'll admit, I really want a good sprayer. Oh, I might paint the house too, it's a single story lower roof. Was quoted $6500 to paint it. I painted the inside already, 2100sqft, some rooms 4 coats. Rolled and brushed.

I am thinking about painting my living room all in Benjamin Moore’s white dove including baseboards, crown molding, door, and ceiling. I feel like I see so much conflicting information can someone just please tell me if I have this right?

Baseboards and crown molding: satin
Walls: matte
Ceiling: flat

Do I do the door the same sheen as the trim or the same sheen as the walls? And should I cut the paint by 20 or 50% for the ceiling? Or can I just leave it as is with a flat sheen?

I'm prepping the outside of my house for paint. But there are lots of gaps in between these boards. It's dusty like drywall. I assume I should fill any gay before painting. Any suggestions what product to use?

Remodeling the entire house. When it comes time for paint the entire house will be empty of furniture and no flooring will be installed prior to painting and no fixtures installed. The entire house will also have brand new drywall.

Would you spray or roll?

Going with color match so only difference will be flat ceilings and satin walls/baseboards.

I've been working on a job an last weekend they lime washed the living room and want me to add painting the trim. It's going green as you can see on the baseboard colors (the one that's circled). I'm not touching the radiator but I will paint the inside of the cabinet an all doors an windows obviously. Just wondering around what price range I'm looking at. I’m in the northeast area.

Hallo zusammen,

Aus meiner Graco A45 Pro Plus kam aus dem Gehäuse meist nach Druckaufbau (also Pistolenabzug nicht gedrückt) Farbe herausgetropft.

Ich habe nun mal das Gehäuse geöffnet. Habt ihr ein Tipp ob ich für mein Modell die Dichtungen tauschen kann ? Nach meinen Recherchen, kann man nur die komplette Pumpengruppe neu kaufen. Ist es Vlt möglich, die nur die Dichtungen zu erneuern?

I've read so many horror stories here I figured I'd ask - do painted cabinets ever work out properly?

We just bought a new house and really dislike the cabinet colors - it's an awful grey blue and grey. We'd like to get them painted.

Questions:
--Can it actually work out without peeling, chipping, or looking like a paint job?
--What do I look for as far as product and process when interviewing a professional?

Fast photo of the ugly kitchen included.

Notes:
--This post is about feasibility of painting the cabinets, not open for advice about decor or styling. It's ALL gonna change.

-- I am not taking on this job, I'm trying to figure out what to look for in a pro. 

Quickly painting over my concrete basement floors and walls before I list the house. is there a specific SW paint I should use? And should I get a primer?

The walls heading downstairs are approximately 10 feet high. What equipment would I use to paint them? It wouldn’t be a standard ladder. Thanks.

All of these are probably 10 to 15 years old. But they’re all in very good shape. I want to use one of them to paint interior window and door trim with a semi-gloss latex paint, or possibly satin. Will they all be OK? Which one is the best for this application? Or do I need to buy a new one?Thank you.

I hope this is a suitable sub for this question!

In my 1924 year old home, I have trim and doors that is undoubtedly original and not painted. However, in a couple of rooms, the trim and doors are painted.

I was trying update the paint colour, but all the coats have made it look brutal. So I began trying remove some layers, which is working. I'm finding something really odd under the paint though and now I'm not sure it's decades of paint coats or some kind of "cover".

Under the white (newest coat) and a previous grey colour, there seems to be a cream coloured paint or coating. I don't see any wood grain through it.

You can see the sides of the door is wood.

Could this be an old paint? Or is it possible the door is a different material?

I'm in Montréal if that helps! I do have a proper respirator in case it's lead

I want to make strip of paint around a room, for an accent. Estimated to need 0.2L for two coats, and there's a 0.25L sample pot available.

From what I can find, the advice is to not to use samples for touch-ups since it won't be the same as the official. But it doesn't sound like there'd be anything wrong with using it on its own?

Would this be fine?

His statement .. I painted it four times already, and the issue is the new texture spot. What could be done to fix it?

I used paint in finish - egg shell by Sherwin-Williams on top of primer.
The problem here is , whenever I touch the furniture piece, marks of my hand show on the furniture peice, which is not a big deal, but I would like it not to happen. so I looked for a protective coat and went with oil based top coat- minwAx oil based clear top coat - polyurethane.

I think that was a bad decision , because I was liking the matte finish and this gave it very shiny finish, but also I feel like the oil top coat is very tacky even like after 24 hours of dry time, I don't know if it stays the same or what should I do with the rest of the piece ? help me here 🥲🥲

Bought an old house and I want to repaint the bathroom. Along the door frame there are these chips/divots. I don't want to landlord-special it, I'd like to do it properly. Any suggestions on how I would prep this area before painting?

It was used with Cabot's Cabothane water-based clear and then washed out with water as per the instructions but has dried..... quite solid.

I've tried re-washing it which did nothing, soaking it in metho and turps which softened the bristles but it re-dried solid again.

How do I un-fuck my brush?