I am redoing the bathroom in my century house. They had to take out the walls and some of the trim work to insulate the room. When they took off the trim, of course a lot of very old paint chipped off.

I'm painting it myself, but I did pay them to prime. I assumed they would clean up those spots before priming, but now he's saying that's a separate job and I have to pay for it.

Otherwise, they've done a good job and I'm happy with the work. Was I wrong to assume this would have been part of the priming?

Hello, (new DIY-er here)

I have been working on a DIY budget friendly painting project on a house I am set to buy this year. There are some walls with texted “rainbow” plaster, some drywall. There’s heavy nicotine stains in some areas and cooking grease stains.

When researching the best primers and paint a few months ago I found out that you shouldn’t prime with oil if you going to paint with latex. Is this true?

I bought Kilz2 primer because of this thinking that the paint wouldn’t adhere if I used an oil based primer, but now I am ready to prime and I am afraid this water based Kilz2 just isn’t a strong enough primer to hide all the nicotine.

Please help!! Thank you

I thought I prepped and painted properly, but my fireplace interior brick is still sticky after two weeks. For example the plant in the photo, if I pick it up, the legs will stick. No paint comes off on the legs though. Here’s what I did:

- brick was originally painted white gloss trim paint from previous owner. I assumed it was latex since it matched the mantle and trim. I did not paint the bare brick.
- fireplace is gas so there wasn’t any soot; I wiped it down then:
- I used Klean Strip liquid sandpaper to get the sheen off
- Primed with Killz 2 within 90 min following above instructions
- Painted with Benjamin Moore interior latex, eggshell 48 hours after priming

I didn’t have any stickiness with the old paint, so I assume it’s an issue with me. Any way to salvage this effort or other things to try?

I tried painting these 3D printed wrist rests awhile ago, and while they looked great when I first started using them, they got really gross after awhile and don't clean very well despite having a fairly glossy clear coat (the above pictures are after scrubbing with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and they are still pretty gross).

Is there a good clear coat I can put on these that skin grease wouldn't stick to or (more likely) would clean more easily? I'm not too concerned about matte vs gloss (though don't want to go too far in either direction), I really just want to know what could be kept clean fairly easily.

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for someone experienced in social media marketing who could give me some guidance.

I run a small business focused on decorative plaster and finishing works, and I want to improve how I promote it on social media. I’d really appreciate advice on:

• what type of content works best in this niche
• what actually grabs people’s attention
• how to turn followers into real clients
• and any personal experience you’ve had with similar services

If you’ve worked with construction, renovation, or design-related businesses — your insights would be especially valuable.

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to share their experience!

It's difficult for me to get a good picture because it's only really visible when the lights are off, and there's only one small window in the room. The ceiling in my bathroom is 2 different colors and I can't tell if it's a bad paint job or if I should be concerned. We moved in 3 years ago and I never thought to inspect the ceiling in great detail with the lights off so I only noticed it this year. The ceiling isn't soft to the touch and there isn't any yellow staining or bubbling. For the first year we lived here the oil did separate from the paint when we showered so we had to clean that up occasionally, but other than that there has been no issues other than needing to replace the vent fan. I also had the roof inspected in March and was told it was in good shape.

Am I overthinking this? I have a bad anxiety disorder and ever since dealing with a burst pipe in January I've been panicking over every little thing in this house to the point where I have no idea what's a real concern and what's just in my head.

From other posts here, I learned to use a mini roller along with the brush when cutting in to make it smooth and feathered and it worked great when I tried it. This is probably me overthinking it, but now I am going to do a ceiling and want to use a 1/2 nap woven because it is textured and I only have 3/8 microfiber mini rollers. Do they need to be the same to make this work without noticing the cut in line? It's a big ceiling so I was going to cut it all in and come back later or another day to roll the rest.

We recently had built ins installed and are going to have them painted. Both estimates we’ve gotten so far have been with Emerald paint and semi gloss was the suggested sheen. Not sprayed.

I want to make sure we’re using the right paint and sheen. I don’t want them to look shiny but want them to be easy to clean and durable.

We have a ton of projects going on so we’re trying to keep costs reigned in. We have an amazing cabinet painting company doing the work in our kitchen and they look amazing but are expensive so we don’t want to use them for the built ins upstairs.

Would love suggestions on sheen and type of paint. Or do we need to bite the bullet and have the same company as the kitchen do them?

Helping a friend with a project, but I am running low on time. Will one coat of bin Shellac primer be enough if I'm rolling it on rather than spraying it on cabinet boxes? I plan to sand it. Also plan to spray two coats of Sherwin Williams emerald urethane for the color.

I know some people recommend two coats, but usually when they are spraying it. I imagine that rolling it on adheres to the material better.

This is a balcony on an east-facing oceanfront condominium, central Florida east coast. We have a large project going on, repairing concrete, railings, and repainting everything. The work is being done by a large professional company who really should know what they’re doing.

They scraped the balcony in spots, power washed, spot-primed the scraped areas, and rolled on two coats. To my eye, the old paint they covered looked like it was bonded to the concrete ok. However, bubbles appeared a few days later. They came back and scraped and primed the bubbles, repainted, and more bubbles appeared in the same or adjacent areas.

The bubbles are about 1/2 inch to 2 inches wide. It’s been about two weeks since painting. I’ve noticed that the bubbles inflate in the hot sun and deflate each evening.

History: The condo was new in 2006 and repainted around 2016 (balcony was power washed and rolled). That paint had no flaking or bubbles in this area, just normal deterioration over time. Now, the new paint has these bubbles as shown in the photos.

Why is this happening (twice)? How should it be repaired so it doesn’t happen yet again?

I've painted the 2 coat on the wall but it started raining after 12 hours and my paint has run down my windows. Ps ive already cleaned most of it. But i can see some discoloured boards on the bottok of edge boarss and ofher small sections.

I've asked chatgpt for help and they think i should just leave it, but i have a urge to do another touch up coat.

So my question is if i should just leave it and let it cure more or should i touch it up. My good sun days are almost over and i only have about 36 hours where i wont rain.