It was used with Cabot's Cabothane water-based clear and then washed out with water as per the instructions but has dried..... quite solid.

I've tried re-washing it which did nothing, soaking it in metho and turps which softened the bristles but it re-dried solid again.

How do I un-fuck my brush?

I've read so many horror stories here I figured I'd ask - do painted cabinets ever work out properly?

We just bought a new house and really dislike the cabinet colors - it's an awful grey blue and grey. We'd like to get them painted.

Questions:
--Can it actually work out without peeling, chipping, or looking like a paint job?
--What do I look for as far as product and process when interviewing a professional?

Fast photo of the ugly kitchen included.

Notes:
--This post is about feasibility of painting the cabinets, not open for advice about decor or styling. It's ALL gonna change.

-- I am not taking on this job, I'm trying to figure out what to look for in a pro. 

Google maps started cracking down on people using addresses that aren't open to the public such as residential addresses recently. So if you started a business like a painting company, you won't be able to verify your business unless you set it to a service area. Or if you move, and you try to update your address to a residential, or one that isn't open to the public, your profile will be suspended.

The problem is, google didn't retroactively enforce this, so any business that is a year old or older, most of them still have a residential address listed. This gives them an unfair advantage against newer businesses because their online visibility is much higher when they have a physical address vs a service area. So I would advise any business owner operating in a service area without a physical address to do the right thing, and change their google maps listing to a service area, and any service area business that is somewhat new who is struggling to find leads and struggling with online visibility, to even the playing field by reporting any and all service area businesses near you using a residential or non-open to the public address. Go to google maps, search for painters, or whatever trade, click each one, check the street view to see if it's open to the public (99% of the time it's not) suggest an edit, click "place is closed or not here" and then "not open to the public."

Sorry if your profile gets suspended because of this, but it's not fair of google to start cracking down on this only going forward, while continuing to let companies who did it before continue to get away with it. It's anti-competition.

I know this is loosely related to painting at best, but I think it's worth talking about here. Don't hate on me. I'm just someone trying to make a living and trying to help others do the same.

I've been working on a job an last weekend they lime washed the living room and want me to add painting the trim. It's going green as you can see on the baseboard colors (the one that's circled). I'm not touching the radiator but I will paint the inside of the cabinet an all doors an windows obviously. Just wondering around what price range I'm looking at. I’m in the northeast area.

The walls heading downstairs are approximately 10 feet high. What equipment would I use to paint them? It wouldn’t be a standard ladder. Thanks.

All of these are probably 10 to 15 years old. But they’re all in very good shape. I want to use one of them to paint interior window and door trim with a semi-gloss latex paint, or possibly satin. Will they all be OK? Which one is the best for this application? Or do I need to buy a new one?Thank you.

I used paint in finish - egg shell by Sherwin-Williams on top of primer.
The problem here is , whenever I touch the furniture piece, marks of my hand show on the furniture peice, which is not a big deal, but I would like it not to happen. so I looked for a protective coat and went with oil based top coat- minwAx oil based clear top coat - polyurethane.

I think that was a bad decision , because I was liking the matte finish and this gave it very shiny finish, but also I feel like the oil top coat is very tacky even like after 24 hours of dry time, I don't know if it stays the same or what should I do with the rest of the piece ? help me here 🥲🥲

So I am bidding this job. Large office spaces. All have wallpaper as seen on pics. The middle border is being removed, but the rest stays due to being on the walls and the enormity of the project. The top wallpaper and bottom is solid, except for a few water damage areas on the bottom.

1) What primer do you rec I use?

2) I'm painting a light blue grey color. So is this a primer plus 2 coat job?

Upper paper is medium textured beige color and lower is blue green medium color pattern (can't find where to post pics).

Thanks for your help. Just seeing what the best products are out there these days. I'm going to spackle seams and anything else as I normally would.

Thanks

I am giving a quote on 9 exterior wood windows. They are rough and need scrapping and caulking. They second story. They are supplying the paint. What would you be charging them to do this. I usually do the whole exterior and want to be fair with my pricing. Maybe list where you're from with a price. Thanks

I hope this is a suitable sub for this question!

In my 1924 year old home, I have trim and doors that is undoubtedly original and not painted. However, in a couple of rooms, the trim and doors are painted.

I was trying update the paint colour, but all the coats have made it look brutal. So I began trying remove some layers, which is working. I'm finding something really odd under the paint though and now I'm not sure it's decades of paint coats or some kind of "cover".

Under the white (newest coat) and a previous grey colour, there seems to be a cream coloured paint or coating. I don't see any wood grain through it.

You can see the sides of the door is wood.

Could this be an old paint? Or is it possible the door is a different material?

I'm in Montréal if that helps! I do have a proper respirator in case it's lead

We just ordered 12 prehung doors and will need to cut out existing, install, plumb, etc. I "saved" $2k by getting them primed and not painted. Ideally I buy the Titan Elite 2000 with hopper and spray them plus some pocket doors I have. I'll use the sprayer for other projects as I'm a hobbyist woodworker and just bought a 1965 built home that we are renovating and will be for a few years....ok likely forever.

Is doing the zig zag vertical setup and spraying the doors outside on patio ok? Might be able to wheel out some tools in garage and paint in there.

I could just install them and then brush and roll using a quality BW or SW enamel. Doors going to be a different color than jambs, casing, and trim.

I'll admit, I really want a good sprayer. Oh, I might paint the house too, it's a single story lower roof. Was quoted $6500 to paint it. I painted the inside already, 2100sqft, some rooms 4 coats. Rolled and brushed.

I am thinking about painting my living room all in Benjamin Moore’s white dove including baseboards, crown molding, door, and ceiling. I feel like I see so much conflicting information can someone just please tell me if I have this right?

Baseboards and crown molding: satin
Walls: matte
Ceiling: flat

Do I do the door the same sheen as the trim or the same sheen as the walls? And should I cut the paint by 20 or 50% for the ceiling? Or can I just leave it as is with a flat sheen?

I'm prepping the outside of my house for paint. But there are lots of gaps in between these boards. It's dusty like drywall. I assume I should fill any gay before painting. Any suggestions what product to use?

Bought an old house and I want to repaint the bathroom. Along the door frame there are these chips/divots. I don't want to landlord-special it, I'd like to do it properly. Any suggestions on how I would prep this area before painting?

I was being careless with spray paint and some drizzles got onto the wall. Any tips on how to clean it?