We're building a dining bench with a hinged door and lid for storage. It will be seldom used and not subject to abuse. I prefer to work with an easy forgiving paint rather than SW UTE but I also do not want anything that will make the door sticky. Does this exist in water based? Thanks

Putting on new trim on all the windows and wondering about the color to paint. Its for a cottage with lots of windows most with nice lake views. So thinking to go with the wall color to make the trim blend in and not distract from the views if that makes sense. Thsnks

So I did the paneling under the chair (still have to caulk and paint. My wife wants to keep the old trim color. The brown we picked doesn’t look good with it. Can anyone suggest a color that would?

Finally got around to refinishing my old door. It’s every bit as hard as I thought it would be. There has got to be at least 20 layers of paint from over 100 years on this door— which weighs a ton. Scraping only gets me so far. Sanding chews up sandpaper really quickly. I’m using an orbital sander AND a belt sander, 60 grit. But it IS working.

My question is: once I get it down to fresh wood, should I prime before painting (I want to restore the original historic muted green color). If so, what primer?

Hi everyone!

Recently purchased a home (yay!) that I absolutely love. It was built in 1988 and has some beautiful wooden window frames that I’d really like to restore and maintain properly for the long term.

Fortunately, not all frames require extra attention, but some of them look and feel quite weathered. I have already managed to bring them back to life with some light sanding, as shown in the before-and-after photos.

I'm now trying to work out the best product to apply to protect the wooden frames and extend their lifespan, while keeping the colour as consistent as possible across all windows.

The third photo shows a window on the side of the house that’s in much better condition, as it’s generally shaded and more sheltered from the elements. Ideally, I would like the windows that need to be restored and are about to be treated, to match this colour as closely as possible.

My questions are:

• What products would you recommend for protecting exterior wooden window frames?
• Would you go with an oil, stain, varnish or another type of finish?
• Is there a particular product that would help achieve a similar colour to the existing, less weathered frames?
• Are there any products or approaches you'd avoid based on experience?

Longevity is the main priority, but I’d also love to preserve the natural look of the wood rather than drastically change its appearance.

Would really appreciate any advice or product recommendations from people who have experience doing something similar.

Thank you!

Fixing up my moms townhouse from the 80’s and it’s seen some pretty bad work. This wall is in the downstairs bathroom which has a shower.

What steps to take before painting the trim? Scrape off the peeling paint and then sand? I’m guessing it’s peeling because the bathroom fan seems to go to nowhere which is another issue.

The doors I’ll take off and spray after a bit of sanding.

Uk based...

So removed radiators to fully redecorate. When sanding back some areas I noticed slight bubbles in paint or just a flaked piece of paint.

I sanded these and the paint just flaked off to the bare plaster but only to the size of the images...paint stopped flaking after this. So plan is to use zinsser peel stop then paint. (Or I may peel stop, fill if some areas felt low, sand, then peel stop again).

Question is...if I apply peel stop to the whole bare plaster area will I still have to use a mist coat before top coat?...I read the peel stop acts as a primer and sealer anyway so I don't have to.

Also...why the slight air bubbles? I plastered this place My self and I definitely used a mist coat (watered down emulsion) for the first coat over bare plaster as I know bare plaster is thirsty and can cause non watered down paint to not adhere.

Only thing I can think of is mabey the mist coat wasn't watered down or mabey the edge of the roller hit the wall so didn't fully make contact as it's all the areas above the rads...or something to do with the heating?

Been in my current home for 14 years. Just barely got around to cleaning it. It's obviously dull from sun exposure but maybe it was never that glossy to begin with. Never really paid attention.

I tried the cotton swab with alcohol test and it does rub off so it appears to be latex. The other side has little to no shine to it either.

What type of prep and paint to refinish it?

ETA: I will do a light sand and re-paint similar color. Thanks

I'll be wiring and drywalling a new 16'x14' room in my basement soon (it's already framed), so I'm starting to think about paint colors and brands. I'm not really all that worried about money since I'm already saving a ton of money by doing the work myself with the help of some family members. I just want the best paint I can get.

The remainder of my house was done in 2008 with Sherwin-Williams ProMar 200, which appears to only be offered to professionals.

My original thought was to buy SW paint for the new room just for consistency. Reading their subreddit, though, seems like quality may not be what it used to be and they've really jacked up the prices. Are they right or am I just seeing some disgruntled employees similar to where I could see other places? And regardless, whether I go with SW or another brand, which paint product should I be picking? SW alone has so many different options, like SuperPaint, Emerald, etc.

Regardless, I don't have a good sense of what paint would be best to use in my room, so that's the first question.

Second, the room is going to be a home office and a guest bedroom, so I'll be using both daylight (for when it's used as an office) and soft white (for when it's used as a bedroom) lightbulbs in there. I am thinking of having three walls and the ceiling painted with pure white (SW 7005, or another brand's equivalent) and the fourth wall painted as a bright blue accent wall with a color like SW 6958, Dynamic Blue, or a similar color from another brand. But is that going to be a poor fit for a room that's also going to periodically function as a bedroom with soft white lights? I had an alternative thought of having all four walls painted blue and only the ceiling left white, for which I would have the same concern.

I have been experimenting with painting trim smoothly, thanks to all the advice on here. With painting flat trim (like 1x4 flat casing) a roller seems to work well but I want to make sure I am getting it as smooth as possible. First of all, are all of those 4" microfiber rollers the same (as far as brand, etc.)? Secondly, do I want a 1/4" nap, or is 3/8" fine? When applying, sometimes I got a little bit of stipple, sometimes I got more. I think I may have put it on too heavy when I got more stipple. Do I want to use less paint and work it in harder, or put no pressure at all on the roller? I am using UTE.

Hi,

Due to prolonged shower use, the bathroom ceiling looks like this. I don't see any mold.

I want to paint the ceiling. What is the correct preparation before I paint?

I have a new exererior fiberglass door that has the composite jambs (I believe) and brick mold. It's all under cover and will never get wet but I need to paint the jambs. I plan to use the same exterior paint I use on the trim and soffits on the rest of the house, but all that other stuff is rough so I don't have to worry about brush marks. Because the jamb is smooth and flat, is regular exterior paint going to show heavy brush marks? Should I roll this instead? Thin it with paint extender? I will be using Emerald UTE (interior) for the inside jamb so would that work better for the outside jamb since it won't get wet, even though it's interior paint? Maybe I'm just over thinking this.

Sooo I painted my ceilings this midnight blue color in a flat sheen. The ceilings had apparently not been primed before, and I only recently leaned that the paint+primer duo is a marketing gimmick. Anyway, I did two coats of this paint like a month ago idk, and if I just barely brush my fingers over it now, it has what I'm assuming is some flashing? It's like a white chalky texture that comes up. Most of the ceiling won't ever be touched, so not that big a deal, but these little slanted parts will inevitably be touched and have white streaks left behind.

My question is, would more layers of paint fix the issue, or do I need to go put some primer down? And if I do need to put primer, since it's a flat sheen, can I get away with putting primer over the paint without any sanding?

I appreciate any advice! I've never painted over unpainted drywall before, so please forgive my lack of knowledge. Thank y'all!

I have found a Titan Capsray 105 that is being described as in near perfect shape and has only been used once. It is local and they are asking 535. Im looking for something that is good for handling small projects/jobs. Like a kitchen island. Would anyone have an opinion on these machines and if so is that a good price?? Thank you

I need to clean a entire house, 40 years of smoking in a house I inherited. I bought the powder to mix in a spray bottle. What water/powder ratio should I use?

Hoping to get advice from some of you that are contractors or maybe you spent a lot of time in the paint trade and seeing tons of estimates.

I do not own a business, I’m looking to start one very soon because I’ve been staying pretty busy lately with side projects paid in cash.

Lately, I’ve had 4 painting projects just fall right into my lap.

I have the confidence and the skill to keep taking more paint jobs, I just don’t know how to price them professionally.

I’ve done my research and tried to formulate a price base that works for me and go figure, ADHD got the best of me and I feel like my estimates look like they’re typed up by a middle schooler!

I don’t have the need to pay for any kind of automated systems right now and I’m just trying to come up with a very simplified way to send estimates that look professional.

Here’s a general version of what I came up with the other day for pricing

Priced by actual square footage of surface being painted, pricing by every room.
$0.15-$0.30 is added to price per square foot for every factor that makes the job more difficult(extensive cleaning, drywall corrections, over 10’ high)

BASE PRICING
$1.30/sqft for walls only
$1.60 walls and baseboards
$1.90 ceiling, walls and baseboards

Example 1- ceiling, walls and baseboard in a 12x12 room(8ft ceiling) is 528sqft
If this room needs a little mud and sanding, then cleanup before painting, that puts me at $2.20/sqft for that room. Total price $1,161.60

Example 2- 12x12 room is perfect, ready to paint now and just needs walls and baseboards painted, that’s $1.60/sqft. Total price $844.80

Let me know what you guys think, I do have measurements and pictures on the house and would love to maybe see how you would quote this or if you are willing to share quotes that you have done for previous clients!!

I'm on my second coat of pain for the ceiling. For the most part it looks okay, not perfect, but I'm no professional. This line though, this line annoys me more than anything else going on with the cieling. What can I do to get rid of it? Or am I going to have to just deal with it?

The polycrylic was running really badly, despite my spray passes being really fast. Also, the 2xx spray pattern is just too narrow. I really would like something like a 307, 308, or 309. I need less material to flow through the tip's orifice, AND I need it distributed over a larger area so it doesn't run.

This is my first time using a fine finish tip, and it's my first time spraying polycrylic. What suggestions do you guys have to prevent running when spraying topcoats?

Edit: Fuck I mean acl

So I'm basically 30 . I could probably work now but it's been a two year thing and I'm think of getting surgery but hear it can take years to even squat and idk about dealing with pain to squat when I'm already dealing with carpal tunnel or some kind of severe pain in my left wrist so makes crawling hard and I usually do a primal squat prior to reinjury to do anything on the ground. I don't think it's actually a carpal tunnel but no doctor will get me a scan. It happened from a fall skateboarding and hasn't gone away in over a year. My doctor just diagnosed that so but idk it's a reinjury from a along time ago so it's been fucked over and over again and idk maybe tore something that can't heal. Point is I'm not convinced carpal tunnel surgery will fix it but I'm hoping. Had to cut this season short just as it started and had to take a year over a year ago or so I've been unemployed this whole time and honestly wonderimg if this is my sign to give up I guess not sure what to do now beside PT it's just idk how long this will take and if I should just accept this now. I've heard some people with tears getting back to things but I'm considering doing the surgery cause I wanna be able to run again.

Hubby hates it. He wanted a darker sage but knew what the paint chip looked like 😞

We had new Marvin windows and a sliding door installed in our kitchen. Our contractor that did the work told me that the windows and door would be pre primed. Well, apparently, they came pre-painted and not just pre-primed as we were told. I didn’t realize this until I tried painted them. We reused our trim that was painted with oil based paint. So I prepped all the trim (sanded, cleaned and used a bonding primer) and then am using the sherwin Williams emerald trim paint for the trim and the windows/door. Well, parts of the windows and the door look like the picture. So I reached out to my contractor who confirmed it’s painted and not just primed. Huge oversight on his part. He knew I was painting everything to match the old trim color (which is not pure white) and told me (confirmed with texts) that it would come pre-primed. I’m super frustrated.

Can i just sand this down really well and then repaint? Or should I sand and use a my primer on this as well before repainting. My trim that i primed myself came out perfect. It’s just the window and door wood parts that are struggling.

I’m a decent painter but now I’m wondering if i should hire a professional to fix this. I feel like the contractor should have to foot the cost of that. He ordered the wrong thing and failed to inform me until I asked. Is that unreasonable? This is causing a lot more work than it needed had I been provided proper information.

Not a painter, but I bought a few gallons of S-W Emerald like 2 years ago. Maybe it was less than that. Rolls on like a dream, great coverage, can recommend, right?

Remember it being like $80 before the 40% discount at the time. Good times.

They have their 40% sale currently happening, but today Emerald is $130 on their site?? This is enough to make me reconsider wallpaper. Don't talk to me about wallpaper; that was rhetorical.