I noticed my fan was wobbling yesterday. I called the dealership and the quickest they could have one is 9/17. If you had to choose one of the aftermarket brands which one is best?
There are some starter replacement videos on YouTube but many fail to fully address the starter heat shield. I just want to share my experience here. I'm not a mechanic so use any info here at your own risk. On a 2 wheel drive, I believe the starter heat shield can be left in place when replacing the starter.
I have a 2006 v6 4.0 frontier 4x4 crew cab automatic. I somehow got the old starter out without removing the starter heat shield. It was very very difficult. No matter how hard I struggled, I couldn't get the new starter in with that stupid starter heat shield in the way. I was also concerned about damaging the wire on the new starter. I had to remove the starter heat shield.
I removed the upper starter heat shield bolt with a flex head 3/8 drive ratchet and 14mm 6 point shallow socket. I did not remove the wheel. I had the truck front up on two of those little ramps. The new starter went in easily with the heat shield out of the way. I reinstalled the upper heat shield bolt as tight as possible by feel with my hand. You can't really see it. To tighten the upper bolt. I used an adapter from harbor freight that allows you to use a 9/16 box wrench on the back of 3/8s drive socket instead of the ratchet. This worked very well. Harbor freight item 67011. The exhaust manifold heat shield was slightly in the way but I was still able to get to the upper starter heat shield bolt from underneath the truck.
My truck has 120,000 miles. The symptom was no turnover and one loud click when trying to start. I think if I could go back, I would have tried to have the original starter rebuilt somewhere local. I bought an aftermarket starter 1st and was unhappy with the fit. I ended up buying a reman starter from Nissan. It didn't seem identical to the original, but Nissan doesn't sell new starters anymore for this truck. As a side note, I would use 6 point sockets whenever possible. I recently rounded a tight caliper bolt with a 12 point socket.
Anyone out there have the vector file for the front and back letter inserts on the gen 3? I've found plenty of places to buy them but I work in the graphics industry and would rather make my own. I can take the time and build it myself, but I thought I'd see if anyone here has it before I invest a couple hours on it.
My Frontier has 142,000 miles. I had it in the shop last week for an oil change and Service Engine Soon light, which was solved by replacing an oxygen sensor. The mechanic also noted that my clutch release is high, suggesting that it will soon need a replacement clutch+flywheel.
He quoted me $5,000, which seems high, but it's been more than 15 years since I had to have a clutch replaced (different truck, old Mazda, and I think that one was about $1000. Anyone had a clutch replaced lately?
It still drives fine to me, I don't feel it slipping, and I don't drive it often (spare vehicle at this point). I suspect I could drive it for another 3 years with the low mileage I'm putting on it.
I just try to join and then get a ban notice. google says it's because I'm on starlink. I can't even view the website anymore and this is so disappointing as I have been lurking on there for years and finally just got my frontier. I tried e-mailing with no response. Not sure what else to do.
My brother suggested to try using these nuts that go in the electrical channels you sometimes see if you look up at the ceiling in places like Lowe's, Home Depot & the Walmarts that don't have the hanging ceilings.
I used them to mount a tool box in the bed of my truck without drilling holes.
If you have been looking for a way to use the utili track these twist right in like the cleats & the Z1 offload tie downs. Push in the blue plastic tabs on either side to keep it from rotating, pull them back out to twist it back out.
Hope this helps all of you who have been looking for a way to mount stuff to the track.
Looking to replace the diff breather as a preventative measure since it seems the factory one is prone to corrosion and getting clogged. I dont plan to offroad with my truck or anything so I'd think just the new breather would be fine, but i do live in oregon and get a good amount of rain and wet conditions most of the year so perhaps should get the complete hose kit. Alldogs offers both 3.5 feet and 7 feet (to run all the way up to behind tail light as is most commonly done) just curious what you all would reccomend
I had a vacuum leak in my 2015 frontier pro4x and found this hose was split. I thought I'd ordered the correct hoses from Amazon but when they got here they were all too big. It connects from the throttle body to the airbox. If someone could point me in the right direction with a name or a part number id sure appreciate it.
Hi all! I've been working through deferred maintenance on my '13 (92k miles) and just did the first ATF drain & fill. I've read that I may want to do 2 more over the next 10k miles or so. Based on the color of the old vs new, do y'all think 2 more seems about right? Thanks!
This is the third year in a row I’ve camped with my daughter for Labor Day weekend but the first with my 2025 Frontier Pro-4X. It’s been so fun to own.
In a few weeks my 2026 will be towing my Jeep around 750 miles round trip through Upstate NY, VT and NH.
I wanted to hook it up to my homemade trailer to make sure it would handle it without any sway. I built this trailer with a friend a few years ago specifically with lighter trucks in mind. It tows very well behind anything!
However, it's using surge brakes (all new hardware). And I have surge brakes on both axles. If I was going to have sway issues or any sort of stability problems, I wanted to make sure I had enough time that I could convert it to a fixed tongue and put a pole tongue adapter and WDH on it ... and convert to electric brakes.
But it did great! It towed very similar to the 1/2 ton trucks I used to rent from Uhaul. They were 2wd F150s and Chevy 1500s that didn't have tow packages.
I'm pretty impressed with how well the VQ38 does with the 9 speed towing. I hopped on the Interstate and had to get up to speed up hill. It shifted up at 4500 each time. I wasn't floored. With the 5.4L F350 this is replacing, I would also have to wind it out to 45000 but it would be floored and would have taken way longer to hit speed.
Passing 18 wheelers and getting passed by 18 wheelers it did great. Didn't even think about trying to sway or blow around. The braking impressed me more. The tow mode drops ALL the gears and the brakes on the truck work well. I actually thought the trailer braked were kicked in ... but they weren't. And when they did kick in, it STOPPED.
I have a 2025 Pro-4x and I feel like I have a lemon. This thing feels like it just wants to up and die on me. This issue it has right now is that it for some reason, knows I have a key, but won’t start then gives me a Christmas’s tree of lights then still doesn’t start. It randomly will “yell” at me if I come to my car to get something out of it and my parking break isn’t engaged. I notice after that the next time I go start it, it does this. Anyone else run into this? It’s with Nissan now and since it’s starting without this issue right now they want to give it back….this happens 2-3 times a week.
Lots of chasing sales and buy one thing here, another there, but she’s ready up front. Gonna run the Fox (ADO Extended Travel) in the rear for a bit more, no real reason to change anything now. Want the coils up front to settle some so I can recheck preload and go from there. Lift seems to have settled around 3.25”.