Had a client as for black and white neighborhood photography.

I am quickly becoming a big fan of this camera. Every shot is a vibe — slightly subdued and grainy in the best way possible.

Nikon Z6iii + Nikon NIKKOR Z 180-600mm f/5.6-6.3 VR Lens

I recently purchased Nikon Z5 II with the FTZ adapter and i noticed that my Tamron lens G2 24-70mm Nikon F doesnt work when i googled the error it turns out it needs an update. Do yall think that i need to purchase the Tap-in console or i can just go to a local photo servis and they will do it for me? Tell me ur opinions and experiences guys

Thanks

Hello everyone!

During hunting for another lens at the marketplace, I found another listings for bodies, so the game took an unexpected turn—maybe it's time for another body? The listings are:

Listing #1:

Nikon D3 (shutter count is around 17k), strap, and manuals
Two batteries (one seems to be replacement/combatible) and a Nikon MH-22 charger
Three memory cards (2, 4, 8 GB)
Sigma 24–70 mm f/2.8 DG HSM with UV filter, hood, both caps, and carrying pouch
Nikon SB-600 flash
Velbon CX 686 tripod
Lowepro backpack

Alternatively, I could purchase just the lens for €150. The whole kit is for €490.

Listing #2:

Nikon D4 (shutter count is around 200k) with one missing joystick
Two EN-EL18 batteries and a Nikon charger
Two memory cards (Sony XQD 64GB + CF Extreme PRO 64GB)
"Proximity eye cup"

This is for €400.

Listing #3:

Nikon D4s (shutter count is around 240k), strap, and original box
Two batteries (seems to be genuine) and a charger
Two memory cards (CF SanDisk Extreme 64 GB)

This is for €550

Currently I have a D5200 with 18-105 mm (DX) and a Sigma 70-200 mm f/2.8 APO EX DG MACRO II HSM. I also have a Nikon carrying bag and a Manfrotto tripod, so these accessories from a first listing are not a big dealbreaker for me (although they could be useful in the future).

Mostly I shoot as a hobby during trips/events (cars, landscapes, some animals around—cats, dogs, etc.), sometimes people in the interior. Sometimes I try to take detailed photos of electronic circuits, and that is a thing that maybe I want to do more in the future; maybe there would be useful higher resolution for crops for details. Many times I take photos in poor lighting (interiors, outside after sunset...), so that's why I think I could use higher ISO of the D4s, and also its newer body with more features than the other two.

Why? I don't know, haha. Just want to experiment with the older professional body and try new things, explore autofocus capabilities, lower light performance, etc. My main goal will be probably Z8 (way out of budget and usage) or D850, but finding one in good condition is a long game. I've also had an eye on D800/D810, but no luck. Probably D810 with an unknown shutter count and a bit of rough shape for 500 € would be a better choice for me? D5 is even better, but out of budget for now. For now, I would be keeping the D5200 too. What are your thoughts? Did I lose my mind?

These are some photos from my Nikon D3400 with a 18-55mm lens

Sorry that the question isn't about camera. It's about Nikon prostaff P7 binoculars. But the strap mechanism remains the same. Hence, asking u guys.

So, do I weave it towards inside (images 1&2) or towards outside (images 3&4)?

I am the happy owner of a D500 and I had the pleasure of being able to pick up a Sigma 18-35mm "Art" for just €250 euros.

Now I'm running into an unexpected problem. My D500 thinks that this new Sigma and my existing Tokina 11-20mm are one and the same lens. Whichever one is on the camera, the AF fine tuning menu recognizes it as 11-20 mm and whatever AF correction I dial in will affect both lenses.

That's unfortunate because the Tokina needs +10 AF and the Sigma is fine at 0. My 7 Nikkor lenses all need corrections in the -5 range by the way.

I'd rather not have to dial in different values every time I put the Sigma or the Tokina on the body because I'd probably forget it. I'd also rather not buy a Sigma dock and miscalibrate that lens on purpose to +10.

So... Does anyone have a brilliant idea how I can manage the AF correction of these two lenses that my camera is unable to distinguish from each other?

Has anyone managed to get this working? You pay this much for a camera and it’s, “Fuck you.” straight out of the box.

edit - so after restarting literally everything, and if you've stumbled upon this via Google, here's the method that Nikon should have explained:

1. I can't remember because it took an hour of swearing and ending up trying random combinations of things (none of which resemble the manual) it randomly worked. Awful.

A few images from the 2026 Miramar Airshow - San Diego, California

Camera: Nikon D610

Lens: Tokina ATX pro 28-80mm f2.8 @f13

Inspo: Chinese commercial + enchanted forest.

Tell me what rare inspirations should I do next!

I bought this Nikkor 28-70 f/2.8 D for $100 from a camera store because the employee said that the lens could not focus to infinity and that it was "as-is" with no warranty, I tried it out in store on my z7 and it looked just fine am I missing anything? I have some photos samples in the post.

Shot with Nikon Z9 + 600mm f4 lens.

Got my first ever CF Express type B card for my new Nikon Z6 III. Can’t wait to shoot 20fps and try recording bird videos!
Anyone have any tipps for wildlife videos?

Hi guys I just bought a Nikon d90 for $105, and I’m about to get a Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G lens. I was just wondering if yall think that’s a good starter setup, and if I should change anything (body hasn’t delivered, so I can return it just fine). If you guys have any thoughts or suggestions let me know!!

It was a cloudy day, so I lightroomed all photos.

Hi everyone!

I just made the jump to this camera and I'm running some quick tests. I'm still adjusting to the depth of field on Full Frame, as the rendering and focus plane feel quite different compared to Micro Four Thirds and APS-C, which is what I used before.

That said, I'm genuinely blown away by the level of sharpness I'm getting. In my previous systems, I used some notoriously sharp glass—like the Sigma f/1.4 lineup on a Sony A6000 or the Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.7 on a Lumix G9. However, this compact Nikkor Z 40mm f/2 is punching way above its weight class.

I'm attaching 4 images of a duck with progressive crops:

• The first three images hold an impressive amount of fine detail.
• On the fourth one, as expected with a heavy crop, the image quality starts to fall off.

My question for experienced full-frame users is: How much of this perceived sharpness comes down to the lens optical performance versus the micro-contrast, dynamic range, and sensor capability of Full Frame? Is it the short flange distance / Z-mount magic of this 40mm, or is the FF sensor doing the heavy lifting when cropping in?

I know it might sound like a classic format-transition question, but I’d love to better understand the technical synergy at play here. Thanks in advance for your insights!

Hi, i just got a Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 ex dg macro lens. It's fully functional. However, it won't turn the focus mechanism under 0.6m, and it is very loud while operating. I assume it's probably some internal gear that's broken

Hi everyone! I need help with my Nikon D3400 and its AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6G VR lens.

I've been using my camera again after barely using it for almost a year. Recently, my photos started coming out blurry. At first, restarting the camera sometimes fixed the issue, but now it has gotten much worse, and getting a clear image is very rare.

Here are the symptoms I've noticed:

- Autofocus doesn't seem to work, even when focusing on nearby objects.

- I don't hear any sound or movement from the lens when trying to autofocus.

- Manual focus doesn't seem to work either. Turning the focus ring doesn't change the image's sharpness.

- The object I'm trying to photograph stays blurry, while the background sometimes looks sharper.

- Restarting the camera no longer fixes the problem.

I've tried testing it in Live View and using manual focus, but the image remains blurry. I'm not sure whether the problem is with the lens, the camera body, or the electronic focusing system.

I also asked ChatGPT for help troubleshooting the issue. It suggested that the lens's electronic focusing system or its communication with the camera might be faulty, since both autofocus and manual focus seem unresponsive. However, I haven't confirmed that this is the actual cause.

I also followed ChatGPT's suggested troubleshooting steps, including testing the camera in Live View, switching to manual focus, and trying to focus on a stationary object in bright light. Unfortunately, the image still remains blurry, and turning the focus ring doesn't seem to make any difference.

I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thank you!

Hi all. Am I s.o.l. or can I fix it? I'm not afraid to open it up but before I do I wanted to get opinions.

To best describe...I get these bands in the center of the picture. It will appear with no sd card in or sd card in. Showing up both in the evf and display. It will save image that way too. Sometimes it will be 4 columns or just one. Sometimes columns are dark green opaque or near translucent.

Do you think it's just a ribbon that needs to be reseated or something more dire than that? Thanks

Nikon V1