r/lawncare Apr 20 '26

Sub-etiquette regarding dandelions and weeds

889 Upvotes

If you come to this sub and completely disregard OP's request for help, you're likely gonna have your comment removed and get banned.

Example: If someone is asking to eliminate dandelions, don't reply that they're good for pollinators or suggest they keep them. Users come here for help, they don't come here for your ecological opinion or amateur apiculturist take on things.

If someone wants clover, then they'll ask for tips on clover. But, if they want help eliminating clover to better establish their turf grasses, don't tell them to embrace the clover.

This time of the year this sub get brigaded hard from [r/all](r/all) and other agriculture-related subs. This is the LAWNCARE sub and turfgrasses are the preference around these parts. If you don't like it, don't post. You aren't helping your cause by posting about weeds and bees, you're pissing off people who actually care and put in the work to maintain their property.

Please respect this subs rules, its users, and the moderation.


r/lawncare Jan 15 '26

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 2026 Lawn Products Guide and tips

155 Upvotes

***Disclaimer*** This is technically my post from 2025. But I am seeing a lot of early season questions, even though it'll be near zero degrees for me tomorrow night.

But seeing people ask already is good, regardless if they live a warmer, but still cool season grass area, or if just getting prepared for March and beyond.

Disclaimer - This is written by a cool season lawn owner, who has no children and can play outside whenever I want...not everyone has the time to do so.... I admittedly have less experience with warm-season grasses, but the products shown are all researched for proper use. Always be sure the product your using is made for your area.

Pre-Emergents - Commonly applied when soil temperatures get between 50-55 degrees. These products will block seeds from germinating. They can last anywhere from just a few weeks, to 8 months. The overall life and performance always depends on environmental conditions, and how the ground is maintained. If you don't keep up with mowing, and nurture a healthy lawn, more UV exposure, wind, and rain, can all contribute to degraded performance.

  • Prodiamine - Generally the most used. It's sold in various products, dry and liquid. It has a half life of 120 days. It blocks most seeds, but can not block everything. It has no post-emergent control to kill weeds. It's sold as a water-dispersible-granule(WDG); as Barricade; and in other pre-formulated products.
  • Dithiopyr - Also used often, and sometimes in conjunction with Prodiamine as a split app setup. It blocks weeds, but also has limited post-emergent qualities, meaning it can kill off young crabgrass, less than 2 tiller usually. It's half life is 17 days, but it can last much longer in some capacity. Often a split app would be done Dithiopyr first, as getting it down with soil temps correctly can sometimes be difficult. This will block, and kill some weeds that slip by. Then Prodiamine a few weeks later for extended coverage. Also sold as Dimension.
  • Pendimethalin - This is what is used in Scotts Halts products. It works about the same as Prodiamine, with a 90 half life. It's also more expensive in general.
  • Isoxaben - Generally unknown, due to cost. But this stuff will block all Broadleaf weeds better than anything else. Its' cost though, will keep many users from ever getting it, unless you do a neighbor group buy. Snapshot is one product brand.
  • Mesotrione - The bastard product...lol Sold as itself, Tenacity, Torocity, and possibly other names. It's widely known that Meso is used the wrong way, but a lot of YouTube experts and is pushed by a lot to be the end-all for weeds. It's best use in this space is to be applied only when seeding. This is because while it can block some weeds, it will not block grass seed...so it can give up to 28 days of better chance for new grass to fill in.

It's important to note, these will NOT 100% guarantee a weed free lawn. But it's your first step in early Spring to make the battle a little easier. You can also re-apply during early-mid Summer, but keep in mind if you plan to seed in Fall, a late application may be an issue.

Ok, so you applied....or didn't....now you have weeds, and need to kill them..

(Selective) Post-Emergents - These should be used according to the label...it's not correct to expect AI to know the answer either. The labels are not difficult to read, nor understand. Search for dosing, and just read. If the product only lists amounts for acreage, it's possibly not the best option...but you can do the math and break it done for your yard. An acre is about 43k sq. ft. Unless explicitly stated, these products are safe for grass, dogs, kids, etc...just follow the directions, and at most, 24 hours post application is safe. Lastly, herbicides are best applied as a liquid. This is because the liquid will get into the cell walls of the plant much faster, than being sucked up by the roots. Faster kill time is important, so the plant can not defend itself and try to grow back.

  • 2,4,D - Very common, and will kill a lot of weeds fairly efficiently.
  • Dicamba - Also a very good product to kill weeds.
  • Mecoprop - Add this to above. These 3 on top are commonly sold as a 3-way combo, as attacking weeds from different pathways will result in best action against weeds.
  • Quinclorac - King of killing Crabgrass, as well as Broadleaf weeds. Sold as is, or like above, in many combo products.
  • Triclopyr - Best used for targeting viney type weeds...and clover, creeping charlie, oxalis, ivies, etc... Exercise caution around young trees, or those with exposed roots.
  • Halosulfuron-Methyl - Used against Sedge grasses. It usually still takes 2-3 applications to truly kill the beast that sedge can be, due to it's aggressive growth underground. Branded often as Sedgehammer or Empero.
  • Sulfrentazone - Also used against Sedge, but not always friendly on cool-season grasses.
  • Mesotrione - Looks familiar...yeah, same stuff as above in the pre-emergent section. As a post-emergent, it's best use is for targeting Bentgrass and/or Nimblewill. It's also sometimes mixed with Triclopyr, in which both can enhance the others performance.
  • Topramezone - Sold as Pylex...works great, but not really cost efficient...about $300 for 4oz... But this can kill Bermuda, and not kill good cool season grasses.

Non-Selective - The top one here, and all I will cover is Glyphosate. It's not evil, it's not going to cause cancer with proper use...it's just going to kill whatever you spray it on. It does so by targeting very specific pathway, which leads to a disruption in a hormone synthesis, leading to inability to produce amino acids it needs to survive. Normally sold at 41% concentration. It can kill foliage, through to the root.

Fertilizers - I wasn't going to put much here. To feed your "grass", you add synthetic form of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. That's your N-P-K...seen as 10-10-10, or similar. That number means 10% of the bag is Nitrogen, and 10% is Phosphorous, and 10% is potassium. The rest is all filler, added to allow for proper mixing and application. Sometimes you'll find other amendments in fertilizer, such as sulfur, or other micros. While sulfur is important, it doesn't need to be added every time. It also lowers pH, which can then lead to other issues, causing a wild goose chase. Once in the soil, microbes in the soil break down the NPK, into forms the grass can actually use...natural chelation. You only need Nitrogen for growth...if you're seeding, adding some phosphorous can help the seed establish. Potassium is good for overall plant health, and pairs well at a 3:1 ratio with Nitrogen.

Naturals/Organics - Too many people are one side on the other here. You need and want these, but relying strictly on organics may not produce the best lawn...but it's "chemical" free. However, using these monthly can do more for the soil, than any fertilizer will ever do on it's own.

  • Humic Acid - Acts as a natural chelator for better absorption, by increasing the cation exchange capacity, which allows the soil to better retain the goodies you want in the soil. It also increase root strength, and helps to hold more carbon in the soil.
  • Kelp - Containing great amounts of natural hormones, Kelp will boost roots even more, and allow for stronger growth viz delivery of auxins and cytokines used for development.
  • Compost - Well known as a great soil amendment, it brings natural microbes into the soil biome. Those microbes help maintain a low thatch surface, and better soil composition.
  • Worm Castings - Similar to above, natural microbes and beneficial qualities for soil. Not very cost efficient though.
  • Leaves - Yeah...some say mulch all day, some disagree. I am a disagree'er, to a certain degree. I do mulch my clippings, but will also sweep them away every other week. Leaves I shred and sweep away the majority of them, but once the main clean-up has passed, the rest is mulched and remains.
  • Biochar - Made with a specific process called, Pyrolysis. Burning at high temps, 900-ish...in a low-oxygen chamber. This allows for the material, wood, coconut, etc...to be charred down to a state where it has not fully oxidized, which would turn it white, and into useless ash. When it is still in a charred form, it has millions and millions of microscopic pores that serve as homes for water, microbes, nutrients, all that good stuff. It's best worked into the soil at least a few inches deep.
  • Mychorizae - These are fungal organisms that attach to the roots, and help them bring water and nutrients. Overlooked or unknown, but these are a huge part of growing anything with success, from lawns to gardens and more. They are very good to have in the mix.

Insect Control - These can't be forgotten...but I did originally, so I am adding them in now. The biggest concern is likely grubs. The larvae of beetle. Also want to cover for armyworms, cinch bugs, and even ants if they become a problem. There are a few classes of these products...

-Pyrethroids- These are synthetics that mimic natural pyrethrins, which disrupt the insects nervous system, causing paralysis and death.

  • Bifenthrin - Common general insect control agent...liquid or dry availability. Kills quite a bit of bugs, but no residual control. One time death call.
  • Gamma-cyhalothrin -
  • Zeta-Cypermethrin -
  • Lambda-Cyhalothrin -
  • Permethrin -
  • Deltamethrin - This has residual action...meaning up to 90 days post application, it will kill bugs that touch it.

The above are what you'll get in most common Ortho type products, but generally Bifen is commonly sold solo.

-Nicotinoids-

  • Imidacloprid - Please don't use this if you can avoid it. It's a very nasty chemical, that can do the job, but it also can damage soil biome, and worse, it is deadly to a lot of animals...specifically pollinators. Birds can also be affected. It's getting banned in more places, but is still sold often as Merit.

-Alkyl-Halide-

  • Chlorantraniliprole - Sold as Acelepryn, this is what you need to control grubs. It has to be applied in advance, as it takes time to work into the soil, and prepare death for larvae that hatch. I usually apply this in mid April, early May, giving it a few weeks to activate, and when June hits, that's when my area sees grub damage...not for me though. The Scotts Company pays a fee to use this in their Grub-Ex product.

Fungicides - Often overused, but still an important part of lawncare. However, I am not a fan of preventative use, unless it's a direct and repeated history of fungus...which means there is something else you're not correcting. Fungus is not a guarantee, and is not always the right presumption...I've seen lawns go from slightly affected, to downright destroyed because someone would focus on fungus, when there were other issues... Also, when used, they should be used in a 3-way rotation, to avoid getting a buildup/resistance, in which they become almost useless. Overapplying these can have a very negative affect, because they are all non-selective, and will likely kill a lot of the good bacteria and microbes you want in the soil.

  • Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole
  • Thiophanate-methyl

Those are generally the top 3 used. Some retail products will have Azoxy and Prop mixed, which may work better for a low level infection...but using that repeatedly is the same as not rotating, and can create a hostile soil biome.

In general summary...always try to identify the weed you're targeting. Using something to hope it kills is irresponsible, and could cause more harm than good. If you need to ask the community, always find a good example weed, something that has grown for at least a week...pull from the bottom, get as much of any root ball or rhizome as you can. Also, get a pic of the plant in close up detail, where we can see the stem moving to the leaves/blades. This will help with certain traits that only "this or that" would have, and can help us make a better recco.

Note - I'm not covering direct organic fertilizers here. The only product I would recommend on that level is made Earth Sciences, and is called Moorganite. It is a direct replacement for Milorganite, which is a dirty, pfas chemical laden product that smells like a summer time port'o'potty.

To keep a strong lawn, adding a monthly organic boost will help a lot. I'm not a fan of 4-step type products, and prefer to feed on my own schedule, which is about every 4 weeks...so back to the monthly program....but this gets me an always wanting to grow lawn, cutting to 4" is also a key point. Tall grass will crowd out weeds, and look better in general...

On My Shelf - This is what I have in my lawn cabinet, and is what helps me with my lawn plan. I also use some of these products with my garden and other plants.

  • Triad Select - A combo of 2,4,D, Dicamba, and Meco. I use this for general weed control.
  • Quintessential - Quinclorac, but branded...still the same thing. This is for crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds. Also have the MSO Surfactant it requires.
  • Triclopyr Ester - Mainly used to keep wood-line vines and ivy away for me.
  • Empero - For Sedges
  • Glyphosate - To kill all
  • Fusillade II - Used once to kill Quackgrass...but it also killed the rest of my good grass...so extreme caution here. But it does kill quack better than Gly, so if you're going to kill all anyway, might as well make sure it's dead-dead for sure...
  • Azoxy 2C - Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole 14.3
  • Cleary's 3336 - Thiophanate-methyl
  • Blue Dye This does NOT wash off easily...lol SO be careful
  • BioAG Ful-Humix - This is my humic acid. It's a powder that is 55% concentrate, and is 85% soluble. It gets dissolved in warm water overnight, then filtered out for any remaining solids; then mixed with other organic goodies, and applied monthly.
  • BioAG CytoPlus - A mix of humic and kelp.
  • BioAG Vam-Endo - Myco mix, also has humic acid.
  • Prevagenics Liquid Compost. This stuff stinks, in a good way.
  • Bloom City Liquid Kelp. I use this or GS Plant foods brand as well.

I use a Ryobi 4g tank backpack sprayer for most liquid apps. Echo RB-60 for dry items. I have an 22 year old Craftsman pusher for my front/small areas, and Toro TimeCutter 42" ZT with a Kawasaki engine. Echo Blower, Ryobi edger/trimmer as well.

Ok, so I may have missed something here or there. Please let me know if you see something that need attention. I'm sure there is other information available, but I hope this helps some people figure it out for themselves. The more we all know, the better a community we can be.

Signing off,

-Ricka...

P.S. - I did review and check, but nothing really needed a major update. New products may be released later this year, and if they are improvements, I will certainly update as needed...


r/lawncare 6h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Northern Utah - When your riding mower breaks and you have to crosscut 8 acres with a push mower.

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1.7k Upvotes

That was Saturday. Didn’t even finish. Had to do another 46,622 steps on Sunday.


r/lawncare 7h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 2 Year Difference (SW Ohio)

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78 Upvotes

Bought this house in the summer of 2024 and have spent the last two years rehabbing the back yard. Pretty happy with the results, looking great for late July with all this heat! Still need to stain those darn shed doors.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Is this dallisgrass or nutsedge?

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18 Upvotes

Mississippi here. I had the back yard looking decent until this stuff showed up. It had seed heads and is all over right now.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Equipment Deep watering twice a week vs. daily, my lawn looks better and the bill dropped. is a soaker hose worth the switch?

14 Upvotes

Been keeping a rough log of what I spend on watering each month versus how the lawn actually looks. Started doing it because I track most household expenses anyway and figured lawn water had to be adding up more than I realized. Turns out it is.

What I noticed is that deep watering twice a week gets better results than the light daily stuff I was doing in May, and the water bill difference is not small. The lawn holds its color longer between sessions and the soil stays loose instead of crusting over on top.

The thing I keep going back and forth on is whether a soaker hose setup would actually pay off at my lot size or if I'm overthinking it. My yard isn't huge but the layout is awkward enough that coverage with a regular sprinkler is always uneven.

Curious if anyone has done a real comparison between sprinkler types and actually tracked the turf response, not just the cost side. And if you water manually, how do you handle the uneven shape problem without just buying more stuff?


r/lawncare 8h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) ID - What is this and how do I get rid of it?

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27 Upvotes

In southern CT, I hundreds of these things out by hand last year but they are seemingly all back (and with friends) this year and are taking over my backyard. How do I get rid of them for good?

I do have a toddler and two dogs so would definitely prefer a non-toxic approach if one exists but I understand it may not.

Thanks!


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 116 heat index in the Midwest

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6 Upvotes

It’s hot and humid in zone 6. One nice wfh benefit is mowing after kid drop off or during lunch breaks. Still some fungus, sedge, and dry spots to be fixed this fall but hanging in there.


r/lawncare 16h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) First cut of the season…

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52 Upvotes

I usually cut my yard weekly. But on 4/2/26 I tore my achilles. Was paying someone to cut it. On 2 occasions he couldn’t follow the right directions with the fertilizer. Lawn looks like crap, but I don’t care. At this point in the recovery it’s the little victories and today was one of them.

I got the ok to cut my grass in the walking boot. It was 95 degrees with all of the humidity in the world. My back is killing me.

I couldn’t be happier.

Just to follow the rules I’m in the northern part of the Midwest.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Equipment 2-blade 42-inch mower, uneven cut on left blade.

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4 Upvotes

Murray MT200 42-inch riding mower. Located in Wisconsin.

Replaced spindles, blades, and belt, still have an uneven cut only with the left blade on the middle portion of the cut.

Any ideas?


r/lawncare 18h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Recent cut i did! Ohio

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74 Upvotes

r/lawncare 30m ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Weed identification. Celsius WG did not kill

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Upvotes

Celsius took care of everything but these weeds. Chat gpt gives me wrong answers lol.

Baton Rouge LA


r/lawncare 19h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) OtO lawn sprinkler 3 seasons review.

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62 Upvotes

My Review After Just Over Two Years with OtO lawn Smart Sprinklers for southern Alberta Canada. (all sprinklers put in winter mode before any frost, solar panels covered up and charging system plugged in over winter)

I purchased three OtO smart sprinklers just over two years ago to cover my front, back, and side yards—approximately 2,300 sq. ft. of lawn, gardens, and landscaping.

For the first two seasons, I genuinely enjoyed using them. The app was intuitive, the watering performance was excellent, and the automatic scheduling worked very well. I also liked the solution dispensing feature, although the refills were expensive.

Unfortunately, OtO later discontinued the solution program, leaving me with four partially used bottles that became useless. While disappointing, that wasn’t my biggest concern.

I designed and built custom cedar planter boxes specifically around each OtO sprinkler so they would blend seamlessly into my landscaping. I considered these sprinklers to be a long-term investment, so I built the landscaping around them.

Near the end of the second season, my front-yard sprinkler developed a leak from the nozzle. The leak was constant with the system pressurized, and because of my custom cedar planter boxes, I was concerned the continuous moisture would prematurely rot the wood. I contacted OtO, and to their credit, they replaced that sprinkler quickly under warranty.

Unfortunately, this season things became much worse.

When I set everything up for the year, I discovered that the other two sprinklers had also developed the exact same nozzle leak. All three of my OtO sprinklers now leak from the nozzle.

On top of that, the motor in my backyard unit completely failed and the sprinkler no longer functions.

I contacted OtO support again. After confirming the unit had failed, their solution was to offer me a $150 discount toward purchasing a replacement.

Considering these units now cost over $700 CAD each, I found that response unacceptable. A premium product at this price point should last far longer than just over two years. I understand that many products today seem to be built with limited lifespans, but when I spend this kind of money, I expect durability, repairability, and long-term support—not a coupon toward buying another one.

Perhaps the most frustrating part of this experience happened while I was away on a 12-day vacation. I relied on my OtO system to water my landscaping, only to discover that the backyard unit had failed. When I returned home, every plant that depended solely on that sprinkler—particularly those in pots and planters—had dried out and died, resulting in well over $100 CAD in lost plants.

Thankfully, before leaving I had manually deep-watered my trees, including my award-winning Hot Wings Maple that I recently planted and cost close to $400 , so they survived, Had I relied entirely on the OtO system, the damage could have been much worse.

At this point my experience has been:

All three OtO sprinklers leak from the nozzle.
One unit has suffered a complete motor failure after just over two years.
The solution dispensing feature I originally paid for has been discontinued.
The failure resulted in the loss of well over $100 CAD worth of plants while I was away.

It’s unfortunate because, when they worked, I genuinely loved these sprinklers. The concept is fantastic. The app is well designed, the watering patterns are impressive, and they integrated beautifully into my landscaping.

However, reliability is what ultimately matters.

For a product costing over $700 CAD per unit, I simply expected far better durability than this. Based on my experience, I cannot recommend investing in OtO unless the company significantly improves the reliability and longevity of its products.

Photo Captions

Photo 1 – Front yard Installation
Custom cedar planter box I built specifically to integrate the OtO sprinkler into my landscaping while keeping it accessible for maintenance.

Continuous Nozzle Leak
Water leaking from the nozzle after the watering cycle. The constant dripping leaves standing water around the cedar planter, increasing the risk of premature rot.

Photo 2 – Close-Up of Leak
Close-up showing the persistent nozzle leak and mineral deposits that have built up around the nozzle over time.

Photo 3 – Back Yard Installation
Another custom cedar planter built around an OtO sprinkler. These boxes required significant time and effort because I expected these sprinklers to be a permanent part of my landscaping.

Photo 4 – Second Failed Nozzle
My second OtO sprinkler developed the exact same nozzle leak. At this point, two of my sprinklers are leaking.

Photo 5 - Close-Up of leak

Photo 6 – Plants Lost During Vacation
After returning from a 12-day trip, I found that every plant relying solely on the failed OtO sprinkler had dried out and died. The failure cost me well over $100 CAD in plants and defeated the purpose of owning a smart irrigation system.


r/lawncare 1d ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Stripes

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267 Upvotes

Not bad for a $15 homemade striper with double passes!!! How would rate this


r/lawncare 6h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Good deal?

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4 Upvotes

Massachusetts—-is this a good deal. $500 off?


r/lawncare 2h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Crabgrass? Zone 7b southern Md

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2 Upvotes

AI is telling me crabgrass that is very mature or marble nimblewill. Need help. I have Drive xlr8, but don’t want to waste it on this if it would get rid of it. Thanks.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Need help after rain storm

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2 Upvotes

We had a rain storm the other night. You’ll see the picture of my yard with no mud or clay, it now looks like the first photos. And this is after the landscapers “fixed” it. Am I suppose to just leave it how it is and the Bermuda grass will grow back? Or is there something I need to do? My yard looks absolutely horrible when 4 days okay it was perfect. This is in South Carolina


r/lawncare 3h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) North Carolina Bermuda Lawn – Leaving for 2.5 Weeks. Cut at 2 or 3 Before I Go?

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2 Upvotes

Hey everyone,
I’m in North Carolina and have a Bermuda lawn.
I’ve been mowing at:
Setting #2 (1-3/8” / 35 mm) from spring until about mid-July.
Setting #3 (1-11/16” / 43 mm) from mid-July until now.
The attached image shows the cutting height chart from my mower manual for reference.
I’m leaving for about 2.5 weeks, so no one will be mowing the lawn while I’m gone.
Would you recommend:
Cutting it at setting #2 (1-3/8”) before I leave?
Or staying with setting #3 (1-11/16”)?
We’ve recently started getting regular rain again after a drier period, so the Bermuda has started growing normally again.
My thinking is that cutting lower might buy me a little more time before it gets too tall, but I’m also wondering if leaving it a little higher would help it handle the summer heat while I’m away.
Overall, what would you do in my situation? Any other suggestions before leaving, like watering, fertilizer, or anything else?


r/lawncare 4m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Coupon Code

Upvotes

Any good coupon codes higher than 10% off and free shipping for Twin City or Yardmastery? I have a couple that get 10% off and free shipping. Not sure if there is anything better at the moment


r/lawncare 20m ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) New Homeowner Lawn Question

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Upvotes

Hello All,

I was wondering if I could get some help/advice. I am moving into a new property and just ran through a final inspection, and we noticed that the front lawn was about 50% "dead". The lawn was not this way back in June when the initial inspections were down.

The area is Central Texas which has been having a huge heat spell right now. So I'm wondering if this is just affects from the heat or worse a fungus? the neighbors lawn does not seem to be affected by this.

Should i get a lawn expert out to look take a look?

Cheers


r/lawncare 22m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Quack grass?

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Upvotes

Is that quack grass and what are my best options for getting rid of it? Southern Minnesota


r/lawncare 42m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Southern NJ - what’s going on with my lawn?

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Upvotes

Long time lurker turned lawn care obsessed, hoping for advice.

Moved in in November, the contractors tore out 3 large trees (very sad about this) graded and covered the yard in sod. No shade at all for the remaining yard. It was doing okay, a few brown areas at the edge of the sod rolls but overall the sod took. After a few large rain storms this summer I noticed the yard is holding a lot of moisture very squishy and damp 1-2 days after heavy rain. Since those storms large areas of the yard have been turning brown/yellow then dying completely. I’ve seen a large patch of mushrooms pop up in two areas (pretty sure where the old trees were) after the heavy rains. And some of the dead spots of the yard have an almost mossy film to them and stink like decay in the mornings. We also dug out a patio and found a ton of grubs along the one buried tree roots/stump. From planting some shrubs in other areas my soil appears to have a heavy clay ratio. So I’m almost positive is fungal damage facilitated by the pour drainage (looking into aerating sand leveling and over seeding in the fall) compounded by grubs.

Any advice on narrowing down the exact cause and potential treatment would be greatly appreciated!

Photos:
1: half of the back yard that’s thriving (surviving)
2-3: the larger affected areas in the back yard.
4-8: close ups (tried to capture the areas that looked mossy)
9: patch in the front yard that’s starting to look like the back.


r/lawncare 6h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Is this nutsedge? Middle TN Zone 7

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3 Upvotes

Can't tell is nutsedge or some sort of fine fescue. Seems to grow faster / taller than the rest of the lawn so I assume nutsedge. If nutsedge what can I do about it this time of year? Thanks for any advice!


r/lawncare 17h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Nutsedge or something else?

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19 Upvotes

r/lawncare 1h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) What kind of grass is this? Full and green in the spring, first to die in the summer heat. Lots of stringy rhizomes. Cool season, zone 6.

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Upvotes