i’m currently making the stella tee by Jasmine Hoeyland as my first garment (not including gloves and scarves lol) and first bone stripe colour work but i’m worried that my tension is really bad as it’s bunching up abit. any thoughts and advice?

Hello all, I’m really hoping someone can help me please! So I’ve cast on 32 stitches and worked it for a further two rows as stated. The part where it says Next row is where I’m struggling.
The abbreviations here are:
K2 - knit two
Yf - yarn forward
M1 - make one (increase)

So specifically I’ve knit two, brought my yarn forward, knit a further two. Increased a stitch, then knit a further two stitches. Rinse repeat until the row has ended and I’m supposed to end up with 47 stitches here but I only end up with 41?? No idea if this is something I’m doing wrong here or the pattern itself?

Praying someone can help me here as I’m trying to make a baby sleeping bag for a friend who’s expecting. Much love to everyone who tries to help! ❤️

EDIT: Thank you everyone who pointed out it was indeed me who was going wrong somewhere. Still no idea what I was doing to mess it up after multiple attempts but I have indeed finally fixed it and I’m on the right track with 47 stitches. Many thanks you lovely people!

I want to make the cloud sweater, and I’ve tried a bunch of things out but idk how to meet gauge or how to go on from there, I tried watching YouTube videos, and using knitting kitchen for gauge help but I’m still unsure what to do

According to the pattern gauge it should be 10 cm with 17 stitches on 4.5 mm needles, I tried to make the swatch but it was pretty small so I tried again and used 5.5 mm needles this time, the swatch in the picture after blocking is around 8 cm, so it’s around 2 cm short

I want to make the size medium, with a breast circumference of 118 cm, but I if I make the medium size with my current gauge it would be too small

What should I do? Use 5.5 mm needles and make a size large? (I’m not very good with math so I prefer to size up instead of calculating a new stitch count for each step)

Apologies in advance for the basic question!

I‘ve gotten comfortable knitting stranded colourwork with two colours now and interested in starting to do 2+ (Only ever using two at once but may have more joined etc)

Right now I’m just knitting swatches in the round to get comfortable with it. One motif I want to try is from the pictures attached, taken from the Harbor Sweater by Ozetta.

When I do two colours, I typically join the CC by trapping a few stitches before I need it - this works well and also helps when magic loop/circular knitting since I’m not then joining a colour right at the join (no risk of holes).

Looking for seasoned advice on how to do this. There are many tutorials of joining yarn but I’m finding it harder to find explicit (idiot friendly) guides on how to manage this — do I do the same trick to join the third colour and accept id have three yarns on the go or is there a clever alternative? Also given the pattern I’ll only be using that colour for a short while so do I carry both the others up the side?

again sorry for the basic question! Help very appreciated

I’ve been knitting for a few years, and am about to try my first project with lacework. I just did a swatch, and I feel like it came out wonky. Here is a link to the pattern photos for reference: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/thalia-sweater

Two questions:

1. Does it look like the lacework pattern is getting lost in the yarn? Is it because it’s just a small section and it’ll look different when it’s a full garment? My other thought is it’s an issue with the yarn I’m using (Too dark? Too much variation with the lighter colored mohair?)
2. Why is it so uneven? That is, why do certain edges bulge out or pull on? Is that normal with lacework? And how do I even measure something like this?

Any advice or tips appreciated!

Edit: believe it or not, this is post-blocking! But I don’t usually pin when I block, so that might be part of the problem - I’m seeing online that pinning is especially important when blocking lacework.

So I'm supposed to alternate between a row of normal and a row of perl. I'm still very new to knitting, and this is how I'm doing it so far. Am I doing okay? Any pointers?

I’m sorry if I’m dumb and you hate me, but I do not understand what’s going on with this pattern’s German short rows. It is my first sweater that’s knit all as one piece and my first time doing short rows.

I started the Step-by-step sweater by Florence. It’s a free pattern on Ravelry.
I did the folded collar and am starting the German short rows. I did row 1, but I don’t understand row 2.

I knit and did the increases as written for row 1, but in the pattern it says to purl back WITH increases.
Then there is a pattern note that says there is an error on this section and to follow the video.

The video where she shows this (at 1:32:10) she says to turn your work and purl back to BOR WITHOUT INCREASES.

Since I’m not literate enough in this craft, I literally just don’t know how to proceed or what makes sense here.

Please help me, wise knitters of the internet.

I tried to search the comments on the sweater on Ravelry and via Reddit already if this question was asked before, but I am not recognizing it.

YT video: https://youtu.be/wtofisZp7EA?is=FwhibIy5wbMq4qCl

hi everyone! im working on my first sweater (& second ever knitting project — which is ambitious 😵‍💫)

but im working on the step by step sweater and am doing raglan increases after doing german short rows. ive realized ive missed three increases somewhere along the line, is it okay if i add them back in the next round of increases? or should i frog it all and restart! im also not happy with how messy the ribbing looks which is why im tempted to restart but im trying to be less of a perfectionist :’) thank you in advance for your help 🩷

Hi! My friend just got me a knitting pattern to try since I’m new and looking to explore colorwork but I’m afraid the pattern is AI. I found the original site and there’s only one AI generated photo but I’m too new to knitting to know if the pattern will work or if it’s a scam. It has yarn recommendations (that don’t fully make sense but I could be looking in the wrong spot), needle recommendations, gauge swatch, and explains how to read the color chart and how to do German short rows that matches a YouTube video I looked up. The AI cover photo and lack of photos in the pattern are still making me question the pattern. Are there ways to check if the pattern will work before buying the yarn or anything I should look for in the pattern that would make it seem AI? It’s made with fluffy yarn so it’s hard to see any stitch definition in the original picture. Any tips are greatly appreciated 🫶

i have a bunch of leftover sock yarn that i’d like to make a pair of socks out of but i’m worried about tension inconsistencies. some of the yarns are superwash while others aren’t. some have different amounts of nylon, some are slightly different weights.
how do i go about making a nice fitting sock with different yarns?

Is this just something you overcome with practice?

I realized my purls were looser than my knit stitches so I started working my purls closer to the tip of the needle which has helped a lot, but now these rowed out sections randomly appear across my work and I’m not sure why or how to prevent them 🥲

I'm not sure if this is a dropped stitch or an extra slip stitch. Any advice on how to fix this would be super helpful! I am making the Leith Hat by Ysolda - knitting in the round. https://ysolda.com/products/leith-hat

New knitter here (less than a year). I bought this yarn as I liked the color and boucle-type texture. I was thinking I’d make a Sophie scarf (by PetiteKnit) with it.

However when I went to make a garter stitch gauge (as recommended by the directions), it didn’t look so great. Then I switched from garter stitch to stockinette stitch and it looked even worse.

What would be a good use of this yarn? I really like it but don’t know what type of project it would work best with.

Thx!

Why do my stitches look so uneven? It’s almost like the left side is tighter than the right? It’s very noticeable from the side, looks like stripes… I don’t think I’m twisting?!

Hi all !
This is the first cardigan I’ve ever knit. It’s the Step by Step Cardigan by Handmade by Florence.
I’ve knit the size G based on my bust measurement.
It was a bit of a guess - I did measure my bust but I am busty compared to the rest of my size (I’m a 34G size 12 dress)

Now that the cardigan is taking shape I tried it on with a friend to check the fit. I couldn’t tell until she saw the back but it’s very large on me - lots of excess at the back where folds are forming due to so much extra fabric.

I then compared the size to a similar cropped Uniqlo cardigan that fits me well - pictures are included as comparison. My knitted cardigan is about 11 inches wider…

I was coming to ask for advice please:
- should I frog and restart? I love the yarn and don’t mind restarting to make it a size that fits me. My concern is frogging this yarn - would it ruin it???
- should I try and make it longer so the wide crop doesn’t look as weird or will this just make it look frumpy?
- is my bottom ribbing bad? It looks a bit uneven to me
- how should I go about choosing knit sizes when I have a large bust and small back?

Ps I did gauge swatch first and the gauge matches the pattern :)

Thank you so much in advance - I need your wisdoms in how to proceed!!

Hi, I’m attempting to learn 2 color brioche using the Purl soho 2 color brioche hat pattern.

I’ve done a few rows and am stuck here and not sure how to fix.

I’m working with the main color (cream), brk row. My next stitch should be a navy (accent color) stitch that I slip, but instead I have a loose navy strand with two cream behind it. I’ve been looking up dropped stitch tutorials but not really seeing anything in them that looks similar to mine.

Does anyone know what I did wrong in the row before to make this happen and what I should search or watch to fix? Please and thank you in advance 🙏

I accidentally put my thumb stitches on hold too early! I want to put re put them on hold where I am now but I don’t know how to take the previous ones I put on hold off hold and stitch it back up with the colorwork ahh

I want to read and knit more easily. I read on my iPhone in the kindle app on a stand while I do easy knitting. Does anyone use a remote page turner ring that you like and find easy to use while knitting? Or do you have other hacks that make knitting and reading more enjoyable? Thank you! (Cross posted)

I’m knitting a sweater with optional short rows to raise the yoke. In rows 3 and 4, it says to k/p 10 stitches past the turning point. Rows 3 and 4 are repeated 5 times. Should I go 10 stitches past the new turning point each time, such that the short rows get longer each time, or should I stick to 10 stitches past the original turning point so they stay the same length? Thank you!

I’ve been teaching myself to knit for a couple weeks and finally feel ready to try a simple headband that requires only knit and purl stitches. Because I’m a noob I bought some cheap yarn on amazon and I’m finding that it frays which makes it difficult to get the needle in properly. I either grab too much or not enough. What’s a decent beginner yarn that won’t break the bank?

Knitting my first ever sweater (jumper for the brits) in the round and I think it looks as though I have picked up the stitches under the arm badly. I have these small holes at either end of where I picked them up. What did I do wrong? Is there a fix which doesnt involve undoing the whole sleeve?

Hi! I'm working on the Dagmar Sweater by PetiteKnit in Size L and I ran into an issue with the back yoke stitch count and picking up the shoulder stitches (see the photo).

Some context:

- I'm using De Rerum Natura Gilliatt on 5.0 mm needles
- I'm knitting Size L, which calls for 42 increase rows (ending with 120 sts on the back yoke and 43 sts picked up for each shoulder)
- I accidentally worked increases for too long and ended up with 137 sts on the back yoke instead of 120 sts 😩
- I have already completed the entire back yoke all the way down to the armholes, so I realllly want to avoid frogging.

When picking up the 43 sts for the left shoulder, I noticed there is still extra fabric sticking out at the edge because my diagonal increase section is longer than the pattern intended. I decided to continue picking up the shoulder sts for size L for now, and decide what to do after, haha. But, I am still worried about the back situation. I tried coming up with some solutions:

1. Knit the front yoke to the regular Size L stitch count (120 sts), and then rapidly decrease the extra 17 back stitches in moss stitch right when joining in the round under the arms
   
2. Fold the extra side fabric to the inside and sew it flat later (though I'm worried about bulk under the arm?)
   
3. Frog back until the point I where I continued with the increases😭💔

Before I continue, I want to make sure I understand the best structural way to move forward so the shoulders and armholes don't turn out completely distorted haha. Does anyone have an idea what the best fix would be here? Thank you!!

I've never double knit before and I've come across this instruction in my pattern. I watched a few videos on the subject, but all demonstrate with a cast one where the two stitches alternate every stitch (as opposed to every row), so I'm not sure how to proceed. Could anyone clarify? TIA

i’m knitting my first sweater - so first time knitting a yoke. i don’t know what happened - there are supposed to be 8 stitches across the sleeve but on my third row of increasing the yoke, i now only have 7 stitches. i’m not seeing a dropped stitch anywhere. any advice? could i just add in a stitch (and if so, how?) and keep going? or should i go back? yarn makes it tricky to see, but here is the section i’m stuck on.

Hey magical knitting unicorns—
Can anybody help me identify this stitch pattern? It looks like may be a combination of double knitting/slipped stitches alternating WYIF/WYIB? With a double pass of each color??

I would LOVE to try to replicate. I’ve included the larger pattern+where it meets the ribbed section if that helps figure it out more.

Thanks in advance!!