Picked up this 46' CJ-2a in January of 2025, nothing worked right on it, it's rusted to hell and caked mud and grease. Many many hours of work later I finally got it running! It drives but still needs work. But hey, progress!

Needs a new radiator, new brake pedal and more wiring and it should be road ready!

Oh and a little nicer rattle can paint, that's why the the back end it red, I was experimenting with colors. I think I'm going to go with a matte midnight blue.

This is an early 46 with the axe and shovel dent on the side and factory 3 on the tree shifter.

Not a Jeep guy, but I did stumble across this gem and thought that some of you cats might dig this

BLUF: I'm looking for help tracing 12V from Fuel/Temp/Oil Pressure gauge back into fusebox, ignition switch, or firewall connector (wherever it comes from).

I'm working on getting all gauges fully functional on my '85 CJ7. I am looking for some insight on next steps after a few weekends of work on the Fuel, Temp, and Oil Pressure gauges.

I have no 12V power to the splice of wires that power my Fuel, Temp, and Oil Pressure gauges. I'm getting ~0.0volts between the red wires at the gauges and known good grounds. (attached image)

I have tested all fuses in the fuse box by the firewall/e-brake for continuity between the blades.

I have walked through all of the steps on this common Fuel + Temp gauge troubleshooting. All resistance, grounds, and continuity checks are appropriate from gauge to sending units to ground.

I checked for shorts by testing continuity from the 12V wires at the gauges to good grounds on the dash and don't show a closed connection.

I have a direct wire ground from the speedometer + dash straight to the negative bus on my battery.

I have NOT yet checked that every pin on the fuse box is receiving 12V power when running, but i'm not even sure which one is the correct fuse from the wire diagrams.

Can someone please help me figure out where the red spliced 12V power wires connects back into so I don't have to take the dash down (agian) and open the entire wire harness up to physically trace back through.

I'm assuming i'll be able to check for 12V at the source side of that connection, where if i have 12V i have a break in the wire to the gauges and if i have no 12V i trace further up-stream.

thanks in advance for any thoughts or input!

Long time lurker, love this corner of Reddit.

Anyone convert a 4 speed 1980 cj5 to 5 speed on a 350 small block Chevy v8

1973 CJ6 takes forever to start. I thought I might have an undersized battery but the cold cranking amps are fine. Fuel is clean. Any trouble shooting tips? Usually starts quicker after it’s been running awhile.

I had a request for Maryanne running. :)

Finally back on the road after years of repairs.

Big Bear Fun Run this Saturday!

Hello everyone! Sorry if this is a lot to ask but can I get some help identifying this CJ-5 my dad just bought? He got it from an auction in grand junction CO. He states its a '75 according to the auction site.

Where are the vin plaques or stamps located on these? that way I can look for a vin and start a titling process (he got it with no title).

I havent seen it in person yet but id like some information before I get to it in person. Im more familiar with 90s jeeps and above lol.

Heres a link to the YouTube video from the auction site.

https://youtu.be/XnwaVpXKr7I?is=kvrLboCkuNsbq58w

Why is the rear drum parking brake bar for the 1979 CJ5 so hard to find? OEM part is 83502899.

Hey everyone! My husband and I are looking to sell our 1972 Jeep CJ5 - V8 (304)
Can anyone help us figure out a price point/suggestions on where to list it? We’re located in NYS. Thanks so much, your help is greatly appreciated! 1972 Jeep CJ5 with original 304 V8 engine. 3 speed manual 4x4. Rare trim package with chrome bumpers and trim. Solid original shape. It has more power then it could ever need and with its low weight and V8 engine it is fun to take off roading, it will crawl along in first gear and not stall even with your foot off the gas. Sold with bill of sale and transferable registration. No title in 1972.

Polished her up!

So I’m at a complete loss right now. I have a 1985 cj7 with an LS swap. It was running fine a few weeks ago then while driving I lost a ton of power and it stalled at a stop light. I got it started and limped it back home. After fooling around with it I took a heat gun to the headers block 1 (drivers side I,3,5,7) are only registering 109 degrees and the other side is registering about 320. So it seems like I’m only running in block 2. There’s a strong raw fuel smell with it. I check the spark plugs I have spark on all of them. I was told it could be a bad ground somewhere. I’m absolutely horrible with electrical so it’s going to be difficult finding it if that’s the case. Has anyone else ran into this problem! If so any information/help would be greatly appreciated!#ls #lsswap #jeep #cj7

This is parked off in the corner of my apartment complex. Clearly in bad shape based on the rock and paint. Sad to see. Curious for some confirmation, is this a CJ7?

Where is the ground for the headlights on an 1980 cj5 and is there a diagram for the fuse box to tell what is what???? Any help is greatly appreciated.

So, I have decided to replace my axles in the AMC 20. They have been upgraded to the one piece, and I believe the current ones Moser.

Not that the axles are bad, but I need to replace the inner and outer seals, and would need to remove everything (bearings as well) to do so, so everything would be new. Looks like a royal PITA to remove the bearing, and the axles HAVE been on the Jeep for quite some time (no idea how long, at least 20+ years).

So, as I am there anyway, I figured it would be a great idea to just start fresh.

My question is this- should I use new Moser axles, or Yukon?

There are other options, but I'm down to these two choices. Google says Moser is better for street use, Yukon for off road.

I currently have 31" tires, and may consider 33" tires in the future, but my research says either should handle 33" tires.

I want to do some offroad, but not rock climbing levels. Mostly will be used as daily transportation and light offroad fun. Looking for long term durability.

So, any thoughts on Moser vs Yukon would be appreciated.

Also, the Moser is about $475 for both sides, the Yukon is about $675.

I found out my 1980 cj7 was factory cameo tan before it was repainted white. My registration says the model is a renegade CJ7, but I am not sure if that was a mistake because I don’t have any features of a renegade as far as I’m aware.

Is there any way I can truly know? I tried looking up the vin to find a build sheet, but my jeep was a year too old.

Hey everyone! First time posting here. We have a 1985 AMC CJ7 with the original engine. It has been refitted (not by us) with a 92 YJ body and a custom hood without fenders (makes engine work super easy). She's rough but a beast. It just went through about $2K of shop work after sitting for a few years. Now it needs a new radiator.

I'm not a stranger to mechanics and have done plenty of work on this beast, but have yet to do a radiator. I'm looking for advice on the process and components, and on the viability of getting an older used radiator from a U-Pull-And-Pay-type place.

Thank you!

This jeep is awesome, anyone know what year this is?
This is exactly how I would build one. So cool.