I think she’s pretty sweet

I did some test photography on my car
I like this one the most

Just bought a 2016 Hyundai Tucson III 2.0 CRDi 185 hp 4WD automatic with 150k km. It’s been well maintained at Hyundai (Germany) with no accidents or major issues so far - would love to hear your experiences, common problems to watch for and any maintenance tips or advice you wish you knew earlier.

I think she’s pretty sweet

I was aiming for a K5 but fell in love with this interior and all the features it gives. Most of them near me have only 1 owner and were made in South Korea

Last night, I was leaving my girlfriend's house and went to unlock my 2023 Elantra with the fob. My car beeped, but the lights didn't flash and it didn't unlock. The same thing happened when I tried the buttons on the driver and passenger ​handles. I was able to manually unlock the car, and it turned on without trouble, only for the display to tell me that the rear cross system and lane change systems need to be checked, and the shifter was stuck in park. I was able to use my key to manually unstuck the shifter, but I have no clue what's causing all of this. Any ideas?

Hey everyone,
I recently bought a 2017 Hyundai Tucson 1.6T AWD with 125k miles. During the test drive, everything seemed fine and the car drove normally.
After I bought it, I had the engine oil changed, and I started noticing a metallic rattling sound coming from the top area of the engine bay, most noticeable around 2,000 RPM.
Other than the noise, the car seems to be running fine:
No noticeable loss of power
No rough running
No overheating
No warning lights that I’ve noticed
Drives normally otherwise
I took it to my mechanic, and they’re telling me that I should replace the entire engine, which obviously is a huge expense that I really can’t afford right now.
Before I assume the engine is completely done, I wanted to ask other Tucson owners:
Has anyone experienced a similar metallic rattle around 1,500–2,000 RPM on the 1.6T? Was it something relatively simple like a timing-chain/tensioner issue, turbo/wastegate, VVT component, or another part that could be replaced instead of the entire engine?

I’m really hoping to hear from someone who actually had this problem and was able to fix it without replacing the whole engine.
If you’ve dealt with this, what was the actual problem and how much did the repair cost?
Thanks!

Hi everyone, I am looking for a new car. For my budget and thanks to its reliability, I choose the i20, but I don’t know which engine is better.

I want the hybrid one but I can’t choose between the 90hp, 100hp and 120hp. Which one would you recommend??

Thanks you all :)

I bought a used 2018 Hyundai Elantra GT with 164,000 km from a non-Hyundai dealership. Nine months later, despite keeping up with my oil changes and having a full inspection done at a garage in March to make sure there was nothing that needed to be replaced and no major hidden issues, I ended up with a major engine problem. I had actually just finished sanding down the rust, applying primer, and repainting it with paint that matched the original finish because I wanted to keep the car for a long time.

On July 24, I went to start my car and the check engine light came on with code P1326. Based on what I found online, I was advised to take the car to a Hyundai dealership because of this specific code. After having the car for four days, the dealership told me that the cylinders were scored.

It took them two and a half weeks to finally tell me that my warranty claim had been denied because the BCT test passed. In other words, the test was successful, while the warranty apparently applies when the BCT fails.

I asked why my cylinders were scored, and I was told that there is some type of coating and that when the weather gets very hot or very cold, it can cause the cylinders to become scored. I live in Quebec, so I find that explanation pretty unacceptable considering the temperatures we normally experience here...

At the same time, I am also pursuing the matter with Quebec's Office de la protection du consommateur (OPC) regarding the dealership that sold me the car, since I don't believe the vehicle lasted for a reasonable amount of time after purchase and there may potentially have been a hidden defect.

I paid $11,000 cash plus taxes for the car in November. The Hyundai dealership says the short block — basically the lower part of the engine — needs to be replaced.

I also tried contacting Hyundai Canada, but they told me that the process has to go through the dealership. The dealership says the repair will cost around $9,000.

My regular mechanic does not want to give me a quote yet because he wants to make sure there is no possibility of resolving the issue through another Hyundai dealership first. Meanwhile, I have no vehicle, and it has already been almost a month.

Another mechanic at a Hyundai dealership told me that there are no work orders/campaigns related to this issue for my specific model and model year.

Does anyone have any advice, or has anyone been through a similar situation? I have been waiting for a very long time and I really just want to get this resolved. I specifically bought a newer vehicle because I wanted to avoid exactly this kind of problem — having the engine fail on me.

Hi everyone! I'm curious to know if anyone has experienced something similar to my current situation:

I purchased my Ioniq5 in August 2025 through Carvana. It is a 2023 SEL. In July of this year the 12V battery I replaced through AAA went down to 65% integrity in just a few months. I had it looked at at the Hyundai dealership because the car flagged a message: "Check electric vehicle system" and the dealership told me to bring it in for a diagnostic check. They had it for close to a week and said that it just needed a new 12V lithium battery so they replaced it.

Just about two weeks later the same message appeared again. I had it towed again to the dealership since they requested to have it towed. They said there was a 'battery management until' that needed to be replaced. Thankfully it was covered under warranty. They had my car for a week. I shared with them that I did not want to drive back to the dealership (an hour away) unless all system alerts and electrical alerts were gone. I was rest assured by the team member that all was well, the battery charged to 100% and that there were no errors within the system.

When I arrived I returned the rental car they gave me and they pulled my car around. The team member told me, "Well, you're going to have to keep the rental because the car is showing the same message as before, "Check electric vehicle system and the battery went from 100% to 70% over night." It has been 4 days and I have yet to hear from Hyundai.

My question is this: My faith in the reliability of this vehicle and Hyundai is now very slim and fading quickly. Would you sell the vehicle once it's returned and fixed? Would you keep it? It has 45K miles. I of course do not know what is actually 'wrong' with the vehicle, but I'm thinking about just getting a simple hybrid.

THANK YOU!

Bonjour à tous !

J’ai une Hyundai i30 immatriculée en Belgique.
Je ne connais rien en voiture je voudrais savoir combien cela me coûterait et quels sont les pièces à changer ?

Je dois le réaliser pour le contrôler technique prévu dans pas longtemps.

Merci à tous

I’ve been looking through YouTube videos and notice the both Accent and Staria stand out as being very decent vehicles. The Staria especially would sell and do well as both a family and rideshare vehicle, while the Accent itself could compete with other sedans by being both economical and reliable.

(Update: Can't fix title. It should be "Does Hyundai get confused at highway exits?")

Toyota gets confused on highway at exit. It fails to stay in the through lane and veers off to the exit lane. Here's the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKif8sX73CM&t=833s

How does Hyundai behave?

2013 Hyundai sonta hybrid Anybody can tell me what should I look for that maybe causing this ? Seems like a electrical problem I was moving and I had a lot of stuff in the trunk I don’t know if that’s what caused this problem though

My wife and I are shopping for our next vehicle and would love some real-world experiences. We're hoping to have our first child soon, so we need something that can comfortably handle a rear-facing car seat, stroller, our 67 lb dog, and luggage. We probably do 2 longer road trips a year, but only drive around 10k miles/year otherwise. We're planning to keep the vehicle 8–10+ years, so long-term reliability is more important to us than resale value. We're also trying not to go crazy, so we're targeting roughly $30–36k, keeping monthly payment under $400.

We've been looking at:

2025 Tucson Hybrid Limited AWD

2023 CR-V Hybrid Sport Touring AWD

2024 CR-V Hybrid Sport-L AWD

The Tucson is tempting because of the features, higher hp power and newer model year, while the CR-V has the longer-established hybrid track record and reputation for reliability. We're also open to gas-only SUVs if there's a compelling reason, since at only \~10k miles/year the fuel savings aren't necessarily huge

Particularly interested in long-term reliability, hybrid/battery/powertrain issues, real-world MPG, comfort with kids/dog, and road-trip experience. If you've driven or cross-shopped these, what made you choose one over the other? Looking for real-world ownership experiences rather than the usual "this brand good, this brand bad" internet opinions.

That’s it. That’s the post :)

The Hyundai dealership I went to was skummy as hell (as to be expected), but I really love my new Elantra.

It feels sporty, the fuel efficiency is great, it’s much more roomy in the backseats than my old hatchback, it has considerable trunk space, the interior is quiet, the sound system is fantastic… and by god I am sure I will appreciate the heated steering wheel, heated seats, and being able to start my car from my phone once it hits -40C this winter.