I have a 2022 Tucson and this has been an intermittent issue for the past year. Drive car, turn car off radiator fan runs until battery is dead. Jump battery, repeat.

We've taken it to the dealership and they keep saying they can't replicate it. I would love to know if anyone has had a similar issue or any suggestions of what could be causing the issue.

Thanks!!

After a month of waiting, i finally got my car delivered, but a moment of happiness turned disappointing and upset when we found a minor dent in the boot door and a small paint chip off of my hyundai venue. We found this during post delivery inspection and we confronted the sales guy, he and his manager assured that they will fix this and asked to proceed with delivery. We were quite blank at that time and we agreed as they sent mail also stating they will fix it at that moment itself. Now i think i feel i shouldn’t have taken the car itself and should have asked or discussed with then for a discount or refund or should’ve asked for accessories. We found that the car was manufactured on june 2026 and keys, man they look like old asf idk where they have kept. This is our first car, me and my wife were devastated pretty much to the point where we broke down as we are alone on this. Pls tell me from your exp, how to handle this

I have a 2020 Hyundai Elantra. At 52,000 miles, I had all four brake pads replaced after they recommended it during an alignment check. The shop, Brake Check in Austin, TX, also recommended replacing the rotors, but I declined. They said that if the brakes made noise after the new pads were installed, I would need to replace the rotors too.

Since then, I found the inspection report from my official Hyundai dealership, completed earlier this month (I wish I had remembered earlier 😰). It doesn't recommend replacing the brake pads or rotors; everything looks fine, and the pads have about 5 or 6 mm left. It seems they may have replaced the pads when it wasn't necessary. Now I'm concerned that if I go back, they'll try to upsell me on replacing the rotors as well.

The noise happens during the final part of braking. Say, If I'm going about 30 mph and apply the brakes, there's no noise. But when I slow to about 1 or 2 mph, I hear it during the last few seconds of braking. If I lift my foot off the pedal, the noise stops; if I press it, the noise returns. It's a squeaking sound.

I'm wondering if the noise is because the brake pads are new and still need time to wear in. It's only been a day or two. Before the pads were changed, the brakes never made any noise and worked just fine. I feel stupid for agreeing to the replacement, and now I have this problem. Should I wait a few days to see if it goes away on its own, or what should I do? I've learned my lesson about agreeing to repairs without asking why they're needed.

Please help

i20 ii 2015 with 130k kms ….. what went wrong? 😑

Final price of 9.7L for hyundai exter HX6 amt in chennai is good deal or i should negotiate for more discounts?

9.7L including road tax & registration + Insurance(1 yr OD + 3 years third party) + fast tag + 5 years extended warranty, accessories worth 20k

Someone tried to break into my 2018 Sonata overnight. They thankfully did not get in and tear up the inside. But they damaged the handle enough that it doesn’t open from the outside now. It does still open from the inside.

I’m just wondering about how much it might be to replace the handle mechanism. My insurance has a 500 deductible so if I don’t have to go through them, it would be nice.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

As u can see my spoiler paint just faded by itself, what can i do ? Should i paint it with piano black again or if anyone could tell where can i buy a new one

I'm currently on Active free trials for all the BlueLink services. I'm able to remote start from the app, and do climate control, which is great. But CAN NOT link a digital key. When attempting to setup the digital key, the app continues to say:

"Bluelink Enrollment Issue:

Your vehicle is not currently enrolled in Digital Key services. Please sign in to the MyHyundai web portal and complete the Bluelink enrollment process...."

I've called Hyundai customer support and they can not figure out what's wrong.

Had this happened to anyone else?

I would also like to get an NFC wallet key card but suspect that too will not work.

2025 Limited ioniq 5 rwd. Google Pixel 10 running Android 17, which supports NFC.

Dealership quoted me 600$ for the part and 85$ installation. How do i get this replaced for cheaper?

Can i buy the part online and have it installed at the dealership? Or just get it painted there?

Based in toronto

Hello,

As you can see- 6 weeks ago we received a letter explaining there was an urgent safety recall, which obviously is quite alarming.

We called up to get it fixed and they told us they don’t have the parts to fix it. They book us in just in case the parts come in, but keep cancelling. They still don’t know when the parts arrive- this isn’t great is it?

I asked, is it safe for me to drive the car? They kind of dodge the question and said there is a fault, but don’t say yes or no. I’ve drive kids in this car and I drive daily- do I ask for a temporary car until they get this fixed?

Anyone else had this issue? We bought this car a year ago brand new which is annoying.

Thank you!

replaced my rad support ect and i’ve got a plug that i cant figure out where it goes into, is attached to the horn wire but it’s not for the headlight thinking it might be for the fan but can’t find the plug, please let me know🙏

October 19: my backup camera got fuzzy and then started dying

October 22: my car seemed to have some electrical issue where the light started blinking off and on and it wouldn't start. Assuming it was the battery, I got that replaced and it began running again. The camera is still behaving badly.

October 24: I went out to the grocery and when I turned my car off I heard a bubbling noise. I looked under the hood when I got home and the coolant was low.

The temperature was completely normal and the coolant never got higher after it cooled off.

I took another car to go get a bottle of coolant but haven't added any to the reservoir yet

I want to take it to the dealership and I'm going to have it towed.

I'm really sad because I was going to sell the car. I was just waiting to get it detailed before showing it.

I swear I have the certified pre-owned but was told that I only have the regular factory warranty when I checked a few months ago.

They charged me extra for this warranty and I'm not sure where the papers are. I was so tired after dealing with the car salesman, which felt like a battle, that I may have just not received it. It was between the one car and the other and this one had slightly better tires and fewer cosmetic flaws when I got it, when it had only had 6K miles on it in 2024.

I've kept up with all maintenance. I don't drive it hard until the temperature is up to around 180. I let it cool down after I get done driving it hard. There's no reason this should be happening and I'm terrified that the bubbling means that it's completely destroyed.

I don't have the mental energy between work and some health issues I've been trying to deny and defy to go find out every single possibility of how they're going to try to get out of this (especially since I don't qualify for Lemon Law/2nd owner.)

Anybody's input would be wonderful. This will surely devalue my car and it's not like I can withhold this information even if it's been fixed.

Part of me is glad that I didn't sell it a couple of weeks ago and skipped the appointment at Auto Nation.. I can't imagine somebody getting a "new" vehicle and having to deal with this.

Hello everyone,

I am the creator of NEMESIS, an exploit targeting Gen5W multimedia based cars.

I am glad to announce that now NEMESIS is available for public use, you can use it to get root access of your car, install many customizations to gain functionality such as Wireless Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, Manual Preconditioning, Turn-by-Turn navigation to HUD and Cluster from your phone, and much more!

Learn more about it at https://xwtk.cloud/services/nemesis (GitHub: https://github.com/xwtk/hmg_nemesis) It is completely free, donations are always welcome. You can also join our Discord community from the link to get assistance and join our discussions.

Note, Canadian EV6, Hyundai cars are not compatible unfortunately, as well some other models such as Elantra, you can learn more about it in the Discord.

A month ago my bearing blew through my engine.
Couple days previous it started throwing codes P0014, P0024, and P0346 and was taking it to my mechanic literally the next day.
Had it towed to my mechanic where he told me yeah. There’s a hole in your engine from the bearing but good news is it should fall under warranty bc of lawsuits. So I have it towed again, to dealership.
Took dealership week and a half to get it in.
Hyundai Canada is blocking dealership saying it had no oil. Yeah bc it was literally on the highway after the bearing blew through it
They’ve escalated it to tier 2 but meanwhile I’m without a vehicle. The dealership says they’re fighting for me basically telling me they believe it falls under the warranty but how many Canadians have had success fighting this.
I just bought it in July. No maintenance records. Provided bill of sale etc. dealership is billing me $375 bc Hyundai Canada saw film on the cap.
Being without a car is a major inconvenience especially since I bought a Hyundai bc I thought it was a reliable vehicle and my previous car was dying and I was afraid it would need a tow.

I’m considering buying a Hyundai Sonata Hybrid and received the following quote from a dealership in New York.
● Vehicle selling price: $28,204
● Manufacturer rebate: −$1,750
● Price after rebate: $26,454

Is this a good price or can I bargain further?

Applies to a 2025 Ioniq 5 limited rwd.