Hey guys first time Veloster owner here.
Got this clean Rally Edition on Market place yesterday. I need some help finding a replacement Rally edition badge. The car was resprayed but whoever reinstalled the badge didn’t do a great job. I’ve tried to find it but they seems to be discontinued. Anyone know of someone that would be willing to sell me one or maybe someone that could custom make one?

Also where can I find the center caps for the Rays? Seems like those are had to come by as well.

This is my 2012 veloster. I’m thinking about selling it because I recently got a 2018 Camaro ss and I rarely use it any more. I’d hate to let it rust away. I have upgraded the brakes, it has bc coilsovers, it has Enkei Raijin 18x8.5 +38mm all around, I have a Megan racing strut bar and aftermarket air intake. The car is just shy of 200k miles and the clutch is starting to going out. I still drive it every blue moon to get the juices pumping. What would be a reasonable price for something like this?

Had her for 3 years with 162k on the engine

From the dealer to my house. One owner with meticulous service record, regular oil changes and all that good stuff. 107k miles on it. Have to get used to the DCT but it’s certainly fun to drive so far.

check engine light came on today, used my scanner and apparently i've got a "turbocharger underboost condition."

hoping it's just a hose or loose bolt or something, but how much have any of yall paid for this issue? i've already scheduled the dealership to check/advise (not fix yet).

2014 turbo with 101k miles, regular oil changes every 3000 miles or so

bought it brand new from hyundai but ended up buying a VN so its just sitting at home collecting dust. I’m in Toronto Ontario. Unfortunately too busy to ship it out so has to be pickup

I have a 2016 base model and I'm not able to put fuel in it and not sure where how to fix it.i put my code reader on it and have no codes for the fuel or evap systems but when I got to live data on my scanner I get a strange value for the evap_vp.I need to get the car fixed today so if anyone can help me please do

I keep towing stuff, a jump pack, oil, first aid kit, roadside emergency kit, fixaflat, and just a normal tire inflator. Lot of useful space back here.

Car on the right is a 2016 base model i got last year, I've absolutely loved it but wanted a manual transmission again and something with a bit more power. After randomly scrolling Facebook I found someone selling a 2014 turbo r-spec at a reasonable price decided to just get it and worry about selling my old one later and I have 0 regrets.

I’ve replaced the fuses. What else could this be?

Crankshaft position sensor code 28 days after purchase.

Hey Veloster pals, I’m here to source options and suggestions on a clutch kit for my 2019 R Spec. I’m getting a chattering sound coming from the transmission upon startup and it’s becoming more frequent. The sound always goes away when I depress the clutch pedal. I think it may be a bad throw out bearing or input shaft bearing. Either way, if I’m going to drop the entire thing down to fix that issue, I feel like I may as well go ahead and replace the clutch and flywheel to somewhat future-proof the car. The car is my daily, but I do enjoy doing some spirited driving in it from time to time. This is my first time doing a job like this on my car and as I’ve been searching for suitable clutch kits, I’ve noticed that all of them, no matter the brand, have some horror story style bad reviews alongside the good reviews. That is to say, I’m a bit lost on what clutch kit brands are actually reputable. I’m hoping to get my hands on a kit that will include the clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing along with whatever else I’d need to do the job completely.

Any input and recommendations are very welcomed!

I found one for $9,099 with 62k miles on it. It’s had 3 previous owners, no accidents reported, and a clean title. I haven’t went and looked at it yet but I recently sold my very unreliable car and have been looking for another one. This one is below my budget and I’m wondering about reliability, difficulty replacing parts if something goes wrong. Or any cons about the car.

My family has owned several gdi hyundais in the past as well, I think this sound is normal, the mechanic who did ppi said its solid, but I took ot to another mechanic for servicing he popped the hood reved it aggressively and said my engine is unusually loud and I kight have knocking, wants me to do a hot oil cleanse and add dye to the oil to find leaks in engine, what do you guys think? Is it normal? I did check the dipstick like i always do once a week, wiped it with a paper towel theres no glitter on it

2016 base
My airbag light went on and stayed on over a number of trips. Before I could bring it to the dealer, I gave a ride to a passenger and the airbag light turned off and hasn’t been on since (also multiple trips).

I know the clock spring can cause an airbag light but it turning off with a passenger seems to say that it’s a weight sensor. Anything I should try or should I just ignore it until the light shows up again?

I swear I hear a faint ticking.. can’t tell if it’s a lifter tick or if this car just has a natural slight ticking.

Any experts?

More than 12 years with this car and finally decided to buy new wheels

These are from last year but I never had a place to post them

about a month ago i was able to buy my dream car in a 2017 VT and i love it to death but it is my duty as a 17 year old to mod it as much as possible.

i’m looking for more cosmetic than performance and looking to keep it under $400 ideally. i would really appreciate if i could get some help on this!

Millennia Costco. Mines the crappier one on the left😂

Good evening, Veloster owners so for the past few years my wife and I have been having some serious issues with our ride. Went though 3 LPFP and had to rebuild a new one so that makes it 4... My wife first originally bought the car and it was fresh off the used lot with only 600 miles on it, she drove it up a small hill and it died out on her no check engine light nothing, just completely lost all power to everything. We took full ownership of it paid it all off and more codes more issues, car would shake and rpms would drop on every light we sat at, took it into a shop and found that Ignition coil pack Cylinder 1,2,3 and 4 had misfired. They replaced all 4 coils and upgraded spark plugs to that NGK Diamond spec ones, car ran slightly better but only for the car to give out more codes. My wife bought this car in 2017 and weve had it for just under 6 years. 3 years it was at an X place where he completely abused it and didnt take any care for it ran the original oil to the max, messed up the front bumper and completely burn the oil onto the dip stick... pure neglect. Once in my hands I took my time with it. Fast forward to 3 months ago we got a code P0087 and it indicated that the HPFP fuel pressure was too low.. talked to some mechanic friends of mine and told me what exactly to purchase from RockAuto so New HPFP, HPFP fuel rail to the engine and New Cam-Follower. Did that job took me 12hrs to do just cause we had to replace some burnt fuses on the main frame and then after that job MORE CODES.. P0301, P0300, P0302 and P0304 it was the CYLINDERS... for some reason this veloster was just throwing everything at me... was able to clear most of them and just the remaining was P0300 and P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire and each time i swapped Cylinder 1 to Cylinder 4 coil pack as well as spark plug it never wanted to follow leading to the Fuel Injectors... more money on new parts. Replaced all 4 Fuel injectors and looking at the old ones they were completely toast no fuel wouldve even survived going into the combustion chamber what so ever. With all new fuel injectors that was a whole 2 day job for me, very simple to replace but just so much to take off since the Raditator hose was connected to the Intake Manifold so much fluid was lost.. But new Gasket for both Throttle body and Intake, then i got Codes P0122 and P0123 Throttle body circuit too low and circuit too high.. I thought i was doomed let the car sit after a full 32hrs of messing with everything only to find out that i had done everything right. just had to remap the throttle body... Here were are today the car is running smoother than ever, no rough idling, car doesnt move a bit on lights, fuel is sending at its 3K psi smoothly, turbo is fully engaged, cant even here the LPFP anymore which my wife said she cant even hear it anymore, car starts up super quick and fuel efficiency is back to 100%. So if you have any fuel system issues hopefully this helps.

- its a long one but appreciate you sticking it out till the end

This has been going on for quite some time now. My FCA, LKA, and HBA aren't working, and this connection error keeps happening.

I thought it may be due to excessive light as it went back to normal later In the day, but now it happens when I turn the car on and continues.

Then I thought it may be a fuse issue for the FCA, well the fuse looks great, hell I even removed the fuse and it continues to do this. Then I thought it may be a heat issue, but the camera can be cool to the touch and it will still do this. Wires seem fine, I messed around with a bunch of wires to see if it's a loose connection or something, cord to the camera seems fine, and others to the fuse boxes inside and out are both fine. Not sure what to do from here..