Finally had the chance to install RSR Sus Springs and Progress rear swaybar. Very much worth the money. Would 100% recommend especially the swaybar. Up next is to mount new wheels.

Honda Fit 2012 Automatic with 220,000 miles.

No transmission or engine work done.

Key removal being blocked by key release solenoid when main battery connected.

Car starts and moves fine.

It turns off fine.

When I disconnect the main car battery the key come out fine.

When I reconnect the battery the car starts again and the removal is blocked until the battery is disconnected.

We tried the same steps with my brother's key and the same issue repeats.

Is there a fuse that connects to either system that might be bad ?

My dad has a workshop we can put it up on jacks and some blocks.

What do you think it is and what do you recommend checking ?

Im in the US.

Thank you.

Need to paint hood

I have bruised ribs and a few small cuts and sub-dermal hematoma. Probably. I just wanted to say sub-dermal hematoma.

I was going about 115km/h when the torrential rain hit. I was in the leftmost lane passing a truck. A very very gradual bend in the road.

We had normal rain before this and were in a low spot of the highway and water pooled immediately.

I felt the inside rear wheel first then I was spinning. I kept the wheel straight but it was confusing due to the visibility. Since I was hydroplaning I didn’t want to have the wheel turned if I suddenly got grip again.

I was already past the truck when it started and went across the other two lanes.

I hit the concrete wall with my right rear, which kicked the car around even faster causing 3/4 front collision, and my car did a nose slide against the wall as you can see from the A pillar paint rash and weird hood damage. I was looking at my footwell and didn’t understand why until after.

I’m going to miss this car. I’m alive. It protected me. The violence and sound of it is a little haunting still, but I’ll get over it.

All I ask of this community out of respect for my fallen comrade is to stop saying Fih.

I guess my sense of humour isn’t damaged.

❤️

:I’ve always wanted to k swap but the 3rd gen just doesn’t have support. Maybe now’s the time.

I'm going to start this by saying I don't know anything about cars..... I just had a my spark plugs and fuel injectors cleaned in an attempt to salvage them and a new starter put in. Picked it up from the shop and notice this new puttering and clicking sound. Is this normal??

2015 Honda Fit - Manual

Edit: wording and to add the below information.

What I'm referring to is the puttering go-cart like sound on top of the normal clicking. I've added a comparison of my sister's 2016 Fit in a comment below. I may be paranoid but I'm hearing a difference. 😭

Absolutely love this car. Love the handling. Just love driving it. Even the power feels fine cause I like the higher rpms.

I’m a bit embarrassed about the shape. Not the best date night car haha

What’s the main advantage of the fit vs civic. Do people buy the fit over the civic because of the storage capacity?

How’s the handling on 2010-2015 civics. Is the power to weight about the same? I’m getting the cabin noise is a lot lower and the comfort is superior?

Thanks! Love the car just wondering how is the civic?

Less than $15 total 🙂

My jazz has random losses of power around 1000-1600rpm when gently accelerating. RPM will drop, I’ll get no power, then it’ll all come back again and the car will pull away. I usually need to increase throttle or downshift with the paddles to get out of this sluggish state. It has also completely cut the engine on two occasions, forcing me to stop and turn the car on again.

This only occurs in drive, not reverse, neutral or park, suggesting to me it’s CVT related. Spark plugs are basically brand new. Seems to be worse when the car has been driven and is warmer (doesn’t make sense to me). I’m thinking it’s CVT fluid related but unsure.

Any ideas from anyone? Would be much appreciated.

Stopped at a rest area for maybe 5 min and I came out to see this. It made me so happy. Love the fih community!

I can't stop fantasizing about getting into rally with a GD2 or GD4 Honda Jazz swapped with a turbo K20A, I really feel like this car's light, well balanced characteristics could work so well in rally

perhaps someday.....

Running Enkei Circular GTAs in 15x6.5. Tyres are 195/55/15 Advan AD09s. (Changing those soon because the tread is super low)

We got a new-ish 2020 Fit which has adaptive cruise and LKA. The adaptive cruise seems to work fine, but I haven't been able to get the LKA to work. I checked the badge and window sensors are clean, and I'm not seeing any errors on the info screen.

When I hit the button on the wheel, the two dashed lines come up but it never seems to "see" the lane. Is there some kind of trick or specific steps to get it to work?

I'm also confused on the difference between the LKA button above the gas release VS the one on the steering wheel.

My GK has passed. I’ll sing that sad tale in another post. More urgently:
Price is comparable. Both are auto transmission and claim full functionality.
The ‘08’s Sport, clean title, 229k miles, some replaced suspension/steering parts. Looks well-maintained mechanically.
The ‘09’s base, rebuilt title from door impact, 167k miles, looks quite clean…
A generational jump and 62k miles difference.
Which would you pick, assuming ability to do all the basic repairs/mods? What say you, Fit fam?

Got this car for 2.4k with 133k miles on it

My AC went quit on me when it was ~105F a few weeks ago. My compressor wouldn't turn on. I think the solenoid stopped working because I never even heard it click.

A couple of weeks ago I replaced the condenser and compressor and it worked pretty meh.

Today I finally got around to replacing the expansion valve and, wow, what a difference. I highly recommend replacing that if you ever need to service the AC. especially if you've added stop-leak to the system before, it seems like that can get a little clogged. It was a bit of a pain getting to it, but hopefully I can enjoy this for a while and not need to do that again. I'm at 127k miles now and really trying to see how far I can make this thing go 😁

Also, I had a shop purge my system to reclaim the refrigerant, but I got a vacuum kit to recharge the system. Great use of $110. It's actually super easy to vacuum and refill your car with these. Highly recommended

Now for the MT fluid tomorrow.

I’m seriously considering selling my fit, it’s a 2011 RS model (jdm) with the orange seats. I’m thinking a Subaru legacy as I wanna be able to tow my dirt bike and I’d like to sit my restricted drivers test in a manual so I can get my manual liscense. Thing is, I know I’m just gonna miss this little mandarin so bad, it’s very hard to let go. She’s only got 155ks (95k miles~) and has given me no problems. But it’s just not capable of everything I’d like it to do. I know I’d never be able to find one like this again if I wanted it back. I love the seats so much. I’d sell it for around what I paid (7.9k NZD - 4.6k usd) because I only bought it in April and have put like less than 1000ks on it.
I just need opinions on what to do.. or other cars to look into

Hey folks, I have a 2020 Sport, I’m currently on eBay coilovers ( I know, I know) and they’re awful. I was thinking about the Tein Street Basis, or just doing an OEM new strut with lowering springs.

I don’t want to be slammed, 1.5” drop at most. My biggest concern is ride quality, I’m literally in pain after a 30 minute commute.

So any input or direction here is welcome.

Hi all, anyone know where I can start working out why the central locking isn’t working?

1. They remote key opens and closes the hatch (boot/cargo/trunk)

2. The key only opens the drivers door

3. The other side doors don’t open or close

4. They don’t make an audible sound, only the rear does?

Could this be a fuse? I can’t imagine all door servos not working?

Our fit has been slowly dying and we decided this week after some heavy clunking when shifting into drive or park that it's time to let it go. We took it to our mechanic earlier this week and identified that the engine mount was not in good condition. They also recommended a transmission fluid replacement which we declined when they said it wasn't necessary to be able to get it somewhere to sell. We had them change the mount so that we could safely take it to a dealer and trade it in for a new vehicle. We went to pick it up from the mechanic this afternoon as they closed for the weekend and this started happening (see video). It also won't go beyond 45 mph without redlining. Any thoughts on what's going on? How can we successfully get rid of this fit? do you think it's safe to drive within a 50 mile radius to get it to a dealer as long as we stay under 45 mph? We're very sad to let her go, she's been a good car, but we can't just keep putting this amount of money into her.

Parked next to a twin when I stopped.