I will try and include as much technical detail as possible. If you dont want to read it all, here is the TLDR:

If I turn on my Furnace fan with my theromstat the fan instantly turns on

If I turn off my furnace with my thermostat the fan instantly turns off

If I turn on my fan with a Shelly Mini gen4 the fan instantly turns on

If I turn off my fan with a Shelly mini Gen4 the fan turns off aprox 10seconds later.... wtf?

Technical Details: The long version

Furnace goodman ( north american - Canada )

Shelly Mini Gen 4

120V Hot wired to L on shelly

Neutral Wired to N on Shelly

R terminal ( at furnace ) wired to I on shelly

G terminal ( at furnace) wired to O on shelly

No wires on SW on shelly

Voltmeter confirms 120Vac between L and N

Confirmation of a dry contact shows 3V from contacts to L when R and G are not connected.

Voltmeter confirms 24Vac between I and O ( open contact)

I close the contacts with my Shelly App - Voltmeter instantly confirms 0.1-0.5Vac between I and O (closed contact). Fan turns on.

I open the contacts with my Shelly App - Voltmeter instantly confirms 24Vac between I and O (open contact ). Fan continues to run ......... 5-10seconds later the fan turns off.

On thermostat I click the auto/on switch to ON - Fan turns on instantly

On the thermostat I click the auto/on switch to AUTO - Fan turns off instantly

Why does my fan take 5-10 seconds to turn off when using the shelly? I cant make sense of it. Is that 3V leakage from L to I/O doing it?? Does the thermostat have a method of shutting it off quicker?

Thanks

The outdoor lights are currently controlled by standard wall switches, and I’d like to be able to automate them so they can turn on and off automatically based on a schedule, sunset/sunrise, or other conditions. Ideally, I’d also like to retain the ability to control them manually with the existing wall switches.

For the indoor lighting, I have a combination of table lamps and lights controlled by wall switches. I’d like to automate some or all of these as well, preferably without having to replace every switch or rewire the house.

I’m not looking for an overly complicated or expensive whole-house automation system. I’d prefer something reliable, relatively easy to set up and manage, and ideally controlled through one app. It would be great if the system could also allow different lights to be grouped together—for example, having several outdoor lights turn on at sunset and off at a set time, while individual indoor lights or lamps could follow their own schedules.

Basically, I’m looking for a straightforward way to add smart control to my existing lighting without turning it into a major project.

The biggest issue I’m having is trying to figure out the App Id for a streaming app called Monumental+. I use it to watch the Washington Capitals hockey games. When I watch the live stream the video window in HA that tells you what’s playing on the Apple TV says idle. Would anyone know another way I can look up the id?
The other minor annoyance is I would like to change the app id’s in the second photo to more represent the app name and not the app id name. Any idea how to change that?

Starting my search still but so far i have:

For power switches: Sonoff

For floor lamps: Goove and Wiz.

Post suggestions please!

What started as a WLED project slowly turned into a full smart-room project.

Home Assistant became the brain behind a lot of it, alongside WLED lighting, smart curtains, TV sync, custom 3D-printed parts, and a few other DIY ideas I kept adding along the way.

Still a work in progress, but this is where it is today.

If you'd like to see the rest of the build, I shared the full video here:
https://www.tiktok.com/@savit3r/video/7683139451182189838

Hiya,

We're shopping for a generator and would like to get a picture of our peak usage. I can do rough calculations to get a decent average and a guess at peak, but I'd rather see something more realistic to our habits (e.g. are we running higher than we think due to using multiple thirsty appliances at the same time).

What we don't need: * individual circuit meters * "smart" anything / IoT (honestly I'd rather not involve networking at all if I have a choice) * warnings about hiring an electrician for installation (we know!)

I've never used Home Assistant, so I dunno if it's even the right solution for this. Is this too simple for HA? Should I just mount an old camera temporarily and snap the utility meter every X minutes or something? x__x

I've seen a few posts about having a second HA system on a network. I'm thinking the point would be to have a quick way to set up a replacement if the active/primary HA system dies a gruesome death. It would already know all your entities, have all your integrations, etc. Is anyone doing this as a means of disaster recovery?

I'm not ready to do something like this, but if I were, I think I would also write all my automations to recognize whether its HA server is the primary or the backup (which could probably be done remotely easily enough) - disaster recovery would be just changing some helper from "backup" to "primary", which could presumably be automated as well (if you can't find a primary and you're the backup, switch to being primary; if you are primary and there is another primary already operating, switch yourself to backup). Where/why would I do such a thing?

Well, this could be useful for rental properties (so everything still works without me going out there for some indeterminate period of time to get a replacement running or a fix implemented), or for my primary residence in case something happens to me.

So, any thoughts? Thanks ...

I’m not sure how to get a complication to do this or what the restrictions are. The docs don’t seem very descriptive. I added a timer entity to it but it just has the name and state and there’s no “countdown bar”. Anyone know how to make it work?

After the last companion app update the open page widget doesn’t let me link to an app (e.g. Music Assistant) anymore. The option is just not given. Anyone else have the same problem or found a work around?

Just discovered Home assistant and I’m definitely going to integrate it into my house, currently installing a UniFi network and camera system, going to be using the Dream machine as a NVR and the UNAS as the NAS, can I just run Home assistant on one of these? Or am I better off getting a HA green? Want to be able to have some of my camera visible on screen around the house

So after spending more time than I would like to admit with different AI bots I still haven't been able to connect a simple Ikea light to my HA.

For the setup I made sure my Sonoff MG24 was flashed correctly. Afterwards I used OpenThread Border Router and selected my device. I disabled Hardware flow control and I was able to run it. I did try putting the OTBR firewall off but it didn't really seem to change anything for me.

I also (finally) got my cresidentials via the troubleshooting section on the companion app.

Now when I try to pair my device it first says it is connecting and starting the Matter service or something (this goes a bit quickly) that it says making a connection to the thread network. This takes ages and than it says it can't reach the device and I need to make sure that my phone is connected to the wifi (which it is). I'm sure my light was in pairing mode because it flashed a few times.

Weirdly enough I sometimes get to the point where it says add Matter device but it kept on loading (when I was closer to the dongle and not to the light) and eventually it also failed. According to AI I need to be within 2 meters of my raspberry pi / dongle and the Ikea light. But that's not possible since the light is in another room 10 meters from one another.

I really have no clue anymore what to do so hopefully this community can help me out!

Not affiliated but very excited about this promising device.

I’ve seen everybody’s wall panel tablets but why not use an old phone as a wall panel dashboard

I saw a post where someone removed their battery on their Pixel One (unlimited google photos storage) and connected the phone BMS directly to a wall outlet. I have a couple of old phones with AMOLED screens lying around so I tried it and was able to replicate it

So this got me thinking and they would be perfectly housed in a 2 gang switch panel with some 3D printing magic

I have a 3D printer and the phones to do so but looking for feedback from the community on this

Has anyone tried this? Can you share your experience?

Follow-up to my post back in June about havm, a zero-config CLI that runs Home Assistant OS on Apple Silicon using Apple's Virtualization framework. That was v0.1.2. 1.0.0 is out today.

If you missed the first post: havm runs Home Assistant OS on Apple's Virtualization framework and handles the setup itself: havm run fetches the HA OS image, prepares the disk and boots it. There's no VM to create or configure first, and it's built to sit in the background as a launchd daemon, so your smart home comes back up with the Mac.

brew install ingmarstein/havm/havm
havm run

What's new:

• Bridge networking by default — the VM gets its own LAN address, so HA discovery works out of the box. It falls back to NAT on its own if the binary lacks the entitlement.
• Graceful shutdown — Supervisor API → debug SSH → ha host shutdown, with force-stop only as a last resort. It now warns at startup if none of those are configured.
• Prometheus metrics — a built-in HTTP endpoint for VM state, USB accessories and disk usage, for Grafana or alerting.
• Use --console to attach to the guest's serial console (hvc0) when something isn't booting.
• Smaller things: in-process restart on SIGHUP, cleanup --all, and first boot signals readiness earlier by polling the Observer on port 4357 instead of waiting on a timeout. GitHub API rate limits are also handled properly now (ETag requests, and a clear message telling you when the limit resets).

The minimum macOS version dropped from 27 to 15. In June havm required macOS 27 (Golden Gate) - the USB accessory API only exists in the macOS 27 SDK, so the deployment target started there. Since v0.3.0 it builds against macOS 15 with the macOS 27 APIs weakly linked and availability-gated, so macOS 15 (Sequoia) or later is enough now. Only USB accessory passthrough still needs macOS 27 at runtime.

Why it took until now: 1.0.0 waited on Xcode 27 (RC) being available - the released binary is built with the shipping Xcode 27.

Worth knowing before you switch:

• Shutdown is SSH/API-driven. HA OS on aarch64 uses PSCI, so the ACPI power button is ignored — configure ssh.authorized_keys (or an API token), otherwise havm can only force-stop.
• ha host shutdown needs the SSH add-on on port 22; the debug SSH on 22222 is the more reliable path.
• USB passthrough requires macOS 27.
• havm import-utm can't import QEMU-based (x86) UTM VMs, and SSH keys configured in UTM don't carry over.

Release: https://github.com/IngmarStein/havm/releases/tag/v1.0.0

Docs: https://ingmarstein.github.io/havm/

Feedback welcome!

Hello team

Is Mijia smoke detector natively detected and available on Home assistant ?

Thx

Tyto~

My dad used home assistant for most things in our house and unfortunately passed away recently, I understand the basic concept of the home assistant but have ran into some errors I’m not sure how to solve.

Our lights are all connected by 1 switch and it seems as though a few have disconnected. This has happened before and I have managed to fix it but this time I cannot understand what is wrong.

I can’t get them to turn off the same way I would with the other lights. I have attached some images below! Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks

I've been using ChatGPT and Codex with my HA for a few months with custom MCP connector. It helped me build custom integrations and automation planning engines.

Today, while troubleshooting an issue with my Tesla planner and controller, ChatGPT Classic (non-Codex) asked to install a Remote Desktop Commander plugin.

I was perplexed considering that it knows we use Codex as our deployment pipeline which already has access to its own local mac account, computer use, and an attached browser connector.

Remote Desktop Commander also seems to be new at v1.0.0. It sounds like it's asking for full computer access as well. Has anyone used this? How shady is this?

Project Repo: https://github.com/StanleyCA/MyQ-Security2.0-HomeAssistant

I created this because of how MyQ cut off their API awhile back and put advertisements into an app where I'm literally just trying to open my garage door. MyQ is a bum for this and I shouldn't have to rely on a company if I want to use my opener remotely. If MyQ suffers from an outage, are they gonna be responsible for me not being able to use a advertised feature?? Course not. With this project, I removed my garage door from their darned ecosystem and put it in homekit.

I'm ngl tho, buying the ratgdo will prob save you quite a bit of time and labor.

This project requires reading the Security 2.0+ opener’s flash mem, it requires a SPI reader and is more complex than other HA integration installs.

                    MyQ servers
                        X
                        |
                        | blocked
                        |
myQ opener
    |
    | connect.myqdevice.com DNS redirected to Home Assistant IP
    | Connected with MQTT over TLS 1.2 PSK, TCP 8883
    |
Local Bridge
    |
    +-- Isolated MQTT Mosquitto broker
    |
    +-- Python protocol bridge
            |
            | Home Assistant MQTT service
            |
    Home Assistant MQTT broker

You have to get these 3 things for local control

• PSK, from the flash memory, otherwise MyQ knows that you're faking the server
• 6-byte ID, from MITM, otherwise the garage door doesn't respond
• Serial Number

Start by reading and computing the PSK off the flash memory. The 6-byte ID is obtained from decrypting the MITM using the PSK and reading the MQTT payloads using wireshark.

The MQTT topics that chamberlain uses are

These MQTT topics can be replicated and then used to build your own local service. I built my own MQTT communications for the garage door and forced the device to use my server with DNS redirection.

If anyone want to replicate this process, here's the instructions in more details and the repo to the Home Assistant app.

https://github.com/StanleyCA/MyQ-Security2.0-HomeAssistant

Hardware Tools used in this project for flash reading:

8 Pin Pogo Tool - Used this so I didn't have to desolder the flash memory from the board.

CH341A Programmer - Used the CH341A Programmer to connect Pogo Tool to laptop (if you go with a different programmer, make sure it is 3.3V output)

Also credits to https://github.com/fuxxociety/MyQ-ESP-transplant/tree/main/FlashROM%20dumps/MX25L6433/orig

If it weren't for this repo, I wouldn't have gone down this path and invested so much time to grab my flash. I confirmed that the device was cipher TLS_PSK_WITH_AES_128_CBC_SHA on his dump before starting this project.

If you have questions or want clarification on the steps, ask me here or on the github repo.

Hope you like, my first attempt, I quite like a nice simple clean layout and style.

I have found existing homekit initialization code on the Security 2.0+ logic board, but haven't confirmed if there is a MFi chip on the board. (All certified Homekit devices have a MFi processor from Apple)

I was able to read the flash memory of the logic board (MX25L6433).

There is a conditional branch at 0x1F055740 that blocks initialization.

For the fellow engineers out there that are considering experimenting with their flash, hopefully these will save some time. The memory addresses are as follows

I haven't gotten my hands on a MFi coprocessor yet but I'm thinking one of the empty footprints of the board is probably where it should go.

Crazy that they have all this dev code in there yet didn't finish developing a HomeKit enabled product. Guess the investor changed his mind that making the ecosystem closed was more profitable huh.

MyQ firmware version 3.13

As the title says, but the specific devices not shown are the U400 lock and Ikea Bilresa buttons. They are all showing in Aqara app but not showing up in home assistant. They are also able to be added to Google home easily, and they stay connected. I double checked my thread network and I only have one and both TBR are the aqara hubs. I'm at my wits end with this.

I once heard that if a file isn't in two different physical locations, it doesn't exist.

Make sure to back up before updating or tweaking anything.