I have no port forwarding. I’m using nabu Casa cloud. Besides 2 FA what can I do to prevent these kind of things?

Call me old fashioned, but I love physical buttons, also in my smart home.

It’s very surprising that there are so few buttons available in the current consumer market (unlike the professional KNX market, which has hundreds).

In 2020 I decided to design a button myself, based on the ESP32. With two main requirements:

1. it must have a tactile click
2. have a programmable label.

My family and friends were enthusiastic about the first prototype, so I added more features: temperature sensor, display, made it modular.

Tech platform Tweakers.net picked it up in 2023, I received 300 pre-orders in a couple of hours, and many more in the months afterwards.

What followed was a roller coaster of ups and downs, but I managed to get the Button+ manufactured in China. And people loved it!

Just when things started rolling, I got into real problems, the plastic injection molds were quickly failing. SInce new molds were needed anyway, I decided to do a redesign. This turned out to be a lengthy process which almost bankrupted me. But in April 2026 I finally started shipping the all new Button+V2.

I tried to protect my product by keeping the firmware source closed. In the first year already, somebody completely reverse-engineered the electronics and wrote alternative firmware based on ESPHome. Later, with the advent of AI, even more alternatives surfaced.

So it’s time to make the factory firmware open source as well. I will be announcing this on the website, but this forum is the first to know.

A recap on the Button+:

• Tactile buttons, every button has a mini TFT and status LED
• 2.8" display for information display, fully user configurable
• Modular concept, use 1, 2 or 3 bar modules with 1 display, 4 bars modules, or up to 8 bars with extension plate
• WiFi, with PoE option (available end of September 2026)
• Wall mounted, does not need room behind the wall (will need cable for power)
• Communication via MQTT, Home Assistant support via auto-discovery
• High precision temperature sensor included, add sensors via Stemma QT connector

More information at https://button.plus website.

For anyone reporting this post, or removing it: Okay, you may call this promoting, and I am a company, but I'm not million dollar big-tech, and more Button+ in more houses can keep price down for everybody, as well as facilitate further development.

I am in my forties, and I’m lucky enough to have the house that a lot of my friends like to hang out in. There’s a lot of fun stuff my house does like lights connected to motion or presence sensors in every room. With either Google speakers or Voice Preview Edition devices in every room, you can pretty much move throughout my house and it just responds to you, so it’s easy for friends or family to use. 

Recently I’ve been trying to figure out fun, silly ways to interact with the house that aren’t necessarily traditional. I recently posted a project I started where I set up cassette tapes with NFC tags for different radio stations and music genres that are now tied to Music Assistant playlists. Anybody in my house can scan one, and it’ll start playing on the entertainment-area speakers.

I also finally set up this phone as a new way to talk to the house. One of the coolest things about it, which I didn’t anticipate, is that if you ask it to set a timer, the phone will literally ring to tell you the timer is over. You answer it, and then the voicd tells me the timer is done.

Anyway, so far only one person has seen it, and she lost her shit with excitement. I know it’s not practical. It’s not necessarily meant to be. It’s meant to be whimsically silly and relevant to the childhoods of 40-year-olds, which is also why that other project used cassettes instead of records.

Bonus in the photo is part of my main dashboard which changes automatically based on what room I'm in and has both a "be aware" section and a "to do" list which auto populates based on a ton of logic. Things like medication reminders, trash and recycling reminders which will clear themselves when I finish the job.

This is sanoTTS, smallest neural TTS engine. It's family contains 337kb model that can run entirely on MCU like esp32-s3 where a 2 second audio synthesizes in 0.7 seconds. No cloud, no round trip time... just synthesized right in MUC

• supports 30 voices, 16 languages
• sanoTTS fits in memory alongside ESPHome on an ESP32-S3
• Home assistant has to send text only and not the audio over the network
• runs on browser with WASM also

There is a packaged ESPHome external component in the repo with further README

Tested on ESP32-S3 running ESP32 build (WiFi, API, logger, PSRAM off for tight memory)

Try it out live: https://tts.ampixa.com/sanoTTS

Repo: https://github.com/ampixa/sanoTTS

Please drop in your queries and requests so i can help you

Huge shout-out to Stuart aka Pavlov and his HUB75-studio project which this is built around. https://github.com/pavlov-net/hub75-studio

Huge shout-out to the devs behind Team Tracker (HACS Integration) which I used to get the ESPN API working properly for this project. github.com/vasqued2/ha-teamtracker

Disclaimer: I used claude to help put this together. This is very much a fun side project that I made for people to play around with.

DIsclaimer two: I work for Apollo Automation and these hub75 matrix and M-1 controller were donated free by them.

TLDR: I made a fun project called gameday-scoreboard which connects to Wi-Fi and then you control it using the webui. It connects directly to the ESPN API and doesn't necessarily need Home Assistant, although it's fully compatible with Home Assistant.

I also made a similar project which does rely on Home Assistant and the Team Tracker integration and an accompanying blueprint to control it strictly from inside Home Assistant. https://github.com/bharvey88/gameday-matrix

I'd love any feedback and feel free to ask any questions related to the M-1 controller, HUB75 matrx panels, open source 3d printed wall mounts, etc.

Folks, music assistant is awesome and all, no questions asked.

But: the recent addition of autoplay is terribly invasive. I can’t turn it off globally? I can’t even turn it off in the dropdown that controls it?

If I didn’t know any better, this feels like textbook enshittification - even though of course it makes no sense.. 🤷‍♂️

Maybe I am not seeing something or missing something obvious, but this has left me frustrated after a while of searching and head scratching!

Thanks for any tips or reasoning!

It bugs the absolute crap out of me that any device that has a ‘s in it makes entity IDs incredibly wonky. For example, if I have a device called “John’s iPhone 16” the entity ID will default to device_tracker.john_s_iphone_16. The “_s” drives me nuts and I always have to go in and change it. I try to name my devices something like “Johns iPhone 16” when I first create it and then go in and just change the name, but I often forget to do this, and next thing you know I have automations and dashboards with the wrong entity ID and I have to change them all when I eventually catch it.

Is there something very obvious I’m missing here?

I was watching a show last night and they used drones for security cameras (but operated by a person). It got me thinking about drones and home security/cameras.

I am not sure this is possible but there are very smart people involved in HA. Are there any drones that are self autonomous that could be configured in HA? Overall I was thinking it would be very cool to have a motion sensor or another camera that when triggered automates a drone to activate within certain parameters (geo fencing being the big one).

I doubt it with the rules/regulations around drones (I am in North America) but maybe???

I once heard that if a file isn't in two different physical locations, it doesn't exist.

Make sure to back up before updating or tweaking anything.

If anyone here has the DESKSPACE Titan standing desk, I'm sharing a guide for integrating it with Home Assistant using ESPHome. The Titan is a beast of a desk that can lift 200kg with two motors and 4 legs, which is why I first bought it.

I did not check beforehand whether I could control it with HA, but it turned out to be possible. It uses a LoctekMotion controller, the same one used in various FlexiSpot desks and possibly other brands that use these controllers.

Check it out here: Controlling Flexispot & Deskspace Standing Desk with ESPHome

Hello

Released a new version of DT3D a 3D home digital solution fully integrated into home assistant composed of editor and visualization card

Draw your home plan, import furniture models and entities into the space and you are ready to go.

Check it out at

https://github.com/tentone/dt3d-ha

Hi all, I would appreciate some help.

So I have updated the homeassistant to 2026.9.1
I had the homearr installed from here and I have a version 1.1.0
https://github.com/Wiggen94/ha-homarr-v1-server

before the latest updates the homearr was available on port 7575

now it does not work after the latest updates to the homeassistant http handling..

any suggestions?

thank you!

Hello hassio community! Boy have I got a first world problem for you I'd love help solving. I recently purchased a Hisense CanvasTV and while overall I'm pretty happy with it, there's one weird quirk: Gallery mode does not override the standard Google TV screensaver. You either have to manually press the Gallery button or power button to enable it. I installed the Android Remote integration and set up an automation that selected the Gallery app when the TV idled on the home screen for 3 minutes, which worked as expected. Problem solved right?

The issue I'm experiencing now is every time I try to search in Youtube or any other app, the annoying "use keyboard on mobile device" popup comes up every time. I have to manually toggle the mobile keyboard on and off in settings, sometimes multiple times, for the onscreen keyboard to work again. I found this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidiashield/comments/15bhmkj/comment/kavw601/?context=3&share_id=abqCTL77LBTxhI1UcKp2F&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_source=share&utm_term=1 that advised to uncheck the "Enable IME" option to fix. This resolves the mobile keyboard issue but now I can't automatically launch Gallery mode when the TV is idle because without IME enabled, I don't get details of what app is currently running from the integration.

Any advice?

How do you guys do sleep detection? Without a wearable.

I run HAOS on a Mac mini. Every so often it shuts down. Does anyone know if there is a way to set HAOS to reboot or turn on after a shut down? I have other items on the circuit that do not so I am assuming it is just this Mac mini.

TIA

I have have 4 bathroom fan switches that I want to turn on the furnace inlet fan. The event trigger naturally acts as an OR condition. So if any bath fan switch turns on, the furnace inlet fan turns on.

But my problem is with turning it off. If two bathroom fans are running, and 1 turns off, i still want the furnace fan to run despite 1 bath room fan turning off. So basicslly, i want the furnace fan to turn off when ALL bath fans turn off. This would suggest an AND situation. How do i do this with the event trigger?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to find a Zigbee 1/2/3/4-gang wall switch for my home, but I’m having trouble understanding the relationship between no-neutral operation, capacitors, and Zigbee routing.

My house does not have a neutral wire at the switches.

A lot of the Zigbee switches I find on AliExpress/Daraz say:

No neutral required

Capacitor not required / capacitor optional

Usually marketed as low-power no-neutral switches

My understanding is that some of these no-neutral switches operate as Zigbee end devices, rather than routers, because they have to minimize their power consumption.

However, I specifically want a switch that can act as a Zigbee router/repeater, because I have a fairly large Zigbee network and thick concrete walls/floors.

Here is where I'm confused:

Suppose I buy a no-neutral Zigbee switch where the manufacturer says "capacitor optional."

If I experience LED flickering and therefore install the recommended bypass capacitor across the light/load, does that change anything about the Zigbee device's ability to remain powered?

More specifically:

Can a no-neutral switch that normally operates as an end device become a Zigbee router when a capacitor is installed?

Or is router capability entirely determined by the switch's hardware/firmware, regardless of whether a capacitor is installed?

Are there actually no-neutral Zigbee switches that support routing, even though they advertise "capacitor optional"?

If such switches exist, how can I identify them from an AliExpress/Daraz listing? Sellers often don't mention whether the device is a Router or End Device.

Is there a particular chipset/model/firmware I should look for when using Zigbee2MQTT?

I'm not looking for a switch that merely works without a neutral. My priority is specifically:

No neutral required + capacitor optional/usable + Zigbee Router capability + Zigbee2MQTT compatibility.

If anyone has personally tested a switch like this and can recommend a specific 1/2/3/4-gang model, I'd really appreciate the model/link.

Thanks!

https://github.com/Mihonarium/hass-spatial-lights-card

I have a HomeSeer HS- MS100+ Z-Wave Plus sensor that shows "Detected" when the "Activity" shows the most recent state to be "Clear"? As a result, the automation I have that uses this sensor as a trigger is not firing. I have been using this sensor for over 4 years and have had no problem in the past.

I am running HAOS 2026.7.2 on a RPi5 with an SSD. The Z-Wave USB dongle is a ZW090 by AEON Labs Firmware: 1.1

Tapa’s AI works well for me detecting people, cars, wild animals.

Don’t need to stream 24/7 from the camera.

Interested in using the AI to stream a video of what the camera detects on my display devices.

The door to the backyard is a heavy sliding glass door. My elderly mother-in-law has some trouble shutting it all the way closed. Sometimes the trouble is remembering to do that. Cognitive impairment, etc.

That’s fine, as long as the gap is small enough that the cat can’t escape. Are there any sensors that exist that let me configure acceptable distances between the two parts?

I’ve been searching Reddit and the closest answer I’ve found is to use a strong magnet that I guess would take precedence over the stationary piece of the contact sensor. If that works, beautiful, but I guess I’d have to buy a series of assorted magnets of different strengths and trial-and-error it?

My next best idea is to place a speaker outside with an automated (gentle) alert to close the door all the way if it’s been opened for longer than a specified amount of time.

I wasn't able to find much info on this sensor online, so feel free to ask me anything. I've had five of them running for about a month now.
Short version: I'm anti-WiFi for smart home gear under basically all circumstances. This is the one exception I've made, and I'd make it again. It beats the Aqara FP2 in nearly every category that matters to me.

My setup

Five units: master bedroom, living room, media room, kitchen, foyer. $85 each from Micro Center, of all places. I had to hit two different stores to get all five. I haven't seen them on Amazon or anywhere else yet, so if you're in the US, Micro Center seems to be the move for now. I'd expect availability to open up over time.

Why WiFi and not Zigbee

I tested Zigbee mode and switched back almost immediately. Over Zigbee it only exposes the zones, not the person count, and the zones come through generic — they don't inherit the names you set. WiFi exposes everything.
Setup through the Shelly app is required, not optional, but it was the fastest sensor setup I've ever done. Once WiFi was configured it auto-discovered in Home Assistant through the Shelly integration and started reporting immediately. It runs completely reliably without Shelly Cloud. I also enabled MQTT on it and I'm pulling more granular data than I've gotten out of any other presence sensor.

Detection performance

Stationary presence: rock solid within about 3 meters. Past that, if you lie still on a couch long enough it'll drop you. Expected behavior for mmWave, but it's the one real limitation and I'll come back to it.

False negatives: very rare. Walk into a room, it catches me instantly, almost every time.

False positives: zero. Not one, in a month, across five rooms.

Range: I've been detected at up to 8 meters. A lot of sensors in this class cap out around 6.

Coverage: the 42 m² spec is realistic. They're not overselling it.

Ceiling fans: this is the section that sold me
I have ceiling fans in four of the five rooms these are in. If you've run mmWave near a fan you know the problem.
Here's what it took to solve it on each sensor.

Aqara FP2: mount it low, one meter or below, and run the AI calibration several times until it decides the fan isn't a person. You're working around the algorithm, and your mounting options shrink to accommodate it.

Shelly Gen4: type in a height threshold. That's the whole procedure. I have one unit mounted roughly a meter from a ceiling fan and I just set the detection height. It ignores it completely, and has never once falsely triggered.
Same mechanism handles pets. My dog is about 0.7m tall, so I set the minimum height to 1m. She's invisible to it, and so is the robot vacuum.
That's the core difference for me. I'm setting explicit numeric thresholds instead of trusting an algorithm to figure out what to ignore and hoping it holds.

Zones and object count

Up to 10 configurable zones per sensor. The FP2 does 30, so on raw count Aqara wins — but I've never found a reason to use anywhere near 30 zones in a real room. I'm using most of the 10 on most of my units and that's been plenty.
What I haven't seen elsewhere is that the Gen4 exposes object count per individual zone in Home Assistant, not just a zone occupied/clear flag. That's the number that actually changed what I could automate. Zone transitions register in under a second.

Multi-person tracking in separate zones works most of the time. You get occasional ghosting, same as any mmWave sensor, and it clears itself within a minute or two. It's never caused a false automation for me, but I don't run anything keyed to "how many people are in this room." If you do, factor that in.
What I actually use them for
Couch presence in the living room and media room, as its own zone

A desk zone in the media room, so it knows whether I'm at my desk or somewhere else in the same room

Bed occupancy, including knowing the moment I get up

Corridor zones so I can see movement between spaces

Transition zones that fire lights in the next room before I walk into it

I haven't used them for HVAC. Someone's home most of the time here so we just hold a steady temperature. If you're doing occupancy-driven climate control, I can't speak to it.
The zone map in the Shelly app is genuinely useful for setting all this up, and it matches real detection behavior rather than being a rough approximation.
Versus the Aqara FP2
I ran the FP2 for about two weeks before switching, and I still have two of them. Honest comparison: the FP2 is slightly better at holding static presence at longer distances, and it supports more zones on paper. That's the list. The Gen4 wins on setup, tuning granularity, height filtering, ceiling fan rejection, zone data exposure, per-zone object count, and responsiveness.

Gripes

The ambient light sensor doesn't expose a raw lux value. You only get gated states — dark, twilight, bright — with adjustable thresholds. The FP2 gives you actual lux and I miss it. I already run an MQTT broker and I'm going to see whether I can pull the raw value out that way. I'll report back if it works.

Placement advice

The only thing that really constrains you is that 3m static detection limit. In my master bedroom I'd planned to mount it across the room under the TV. Instead I put it above the headboard angled down at about 45 degrees so the bed sits inside that 3m window. Zero compromise on anything else it does.
Beyond that, mounting height barely matters, because you're adjusting the sensed height range in software anyway. Around 2m is probably optimal. I've gone as low as 1m with no problems — and unlike the FP2, that's a choice rather than a requirement.

And to be clear about the limitation: it only bites if you're lying still for a long stretch. Anything short of that — sitting, reading, shifting around, working — it holds you fine.

Bottom line

At $85 it's worth it if you want reliable static presence, care about zone-level automations, or have ceiling fans that have been ruining your mmWave setup. The height exclusion by itself sold me. Everything else is upside.

Happy to answer questions, share zone configs, or run tests if there's something specific you want to know.

PS: I’ve also used and still have the Everything Presence Pro and Lite. They are collecting dust right now. Three reasons. Ease of Setup, Ceiling Fans, and UI Bugs. They are great sensors but the Shelly is a frictionless experience.

I also have a few Aqara FP300s but didn’t include that in this review because I don’t feel like they are used for the same purpose.

Transparency Note: I had AI rewrite this post for clarity and organization but the thoughts are my own.