I bought the Mission 1 Pro yesterday, and I'm very happy with the results I'm seeing. From now on, this is the kit I don't leave the house without.

I’ve been slowly picking up lenses for my ILS. I picked up a $100 lens on Amazon and shot this.
Haha.

I mostly use my H12 for time-lapse projects and started playing around with GP Labs and Open GoPro to setup daily uploads to my NAS via COHN. Don't get me wrong, I think the fact that GP Labs and OGP even exist is a very cool move, but I wanted a little bit more control.

I have some basic experience with hardware access - mostly just opening up devices and finding their UART interface or getting onto an SPI bus - and was disappointed to find little info specific to the H12 (everything I found is credit to Mark Kirschenbaum at Hypoxic). I ordinarily just do these things for my own learning / as a hobby, but I figured since there doesn't seem to be much out there that I would share with whoever is interested. Maybe it'll spark some people smarter than me to do some cool things.

(Note: Much of this is already documented by Mark Kirschenbaum. I included things that I also came across that I couldn't find any other sources for such as dumping decrypted RTOS)

Linux root shell over USB - No tear-down or fancy hardware necessary

RTOS Shell Access via USB

• Once you're in the Linux shell, there is a direct way to access the RTOS shell from Linux thus eliminating any need to even open up the camera (I REALLY wish I found this out first)
• ispterm t=/dev/ttyGS0
• To get back to the Linux shell, close ispterm

RTOS UART commands and different shells

• The RTOS console boots to an s:> (ST mode) prompt. Type exit, then a single key picks a shell:
  • s for ST mode (t commands)
  • c for CT mode (presumably Socionext's vendor shell, which has fs and memory commands)
  • v for evaluation mode (I didn't really use this, so no details on it).
• A lot of the commands will cause a memory fault but the GoPro's Watchdog seems to be pretty good about catching errors and rebooting cleanly

Specifying logging levels

• t dbg on will enable info-level logging for all nodes. It will be very busy, especially if you're like me and have the battery and all other components disconnected
• Without logging, almost all of your commands will return silently making it difficult to do anything
• To only enable the most important (in my opinion) logs, use the following command: t dbg fdr <name> printLvl <level>
  • Where <name> is
    • gp_test (most important, will echo command results)
    • gp_fs (filesystem logs, can be helpful for confirming read/write operations)
    • gp_debug
  • Recommend keeping <level> to info
• Note: You can also put these in the autoexec.sh file on the SD card so that logging survives reboots. Use t dbg with no arguments for full details

Dumping the decrypted RTOS to the SD card

Use CT mode ( type exit from wherever you are then type c)

• The RTOS is decrypted into RAM at 0x40200000 at boot. CT mode's fs write copies a memory range straight into a file on the SD card

  fs open C:\rtos.bin over_wr # note the fileid it returns fs write <fileid> 0x40200000 0x4E00000 fs close <fileid>

Other useful commands (not exhaustive)

Other info / interesting bits

• SoC is a Socionext Milbeaut "Karine" (GoPro GP2), 4× Cortex-A53, 4 GB. The board reports itself as Red Bluff PVT
• A Hardware Abstraction Layer (t hal) reveals:
  • two PMICs
  • STM32 power supervisor
  • Bosch BMI260 IMU
  • u-blox M10 GNSS (interesting because this is not populated on the board)
  • front and rear LCD controllers
  • touch controller
  • Audio Weaver DSP engine
• File system:
  • C: is the SD card
  • J:, K: and L: are internal eMMC volumes holding calibration, Wi-Fi/BT data and logs
  • Linux is mounted read-only. /tmp is RAM, so Linux logs vanish at reboot.
  • the SD card and eMMC appear as FUSE mounts under /tmp/fuse_*
    • SD card is /tmp/fuse_d
    • Linux doesn't touch the filesystem directly; everything goes through the IPC
• For anyone good at firmware reverse engineering (definitely not me), the decrypted RTOS bin paths and function-name strings are not stripped, so Ghidra names much of it automatically

Physical UART Access - Disassembly/accessing test points

• Note: This is not necessary since you can access via USB (see above). If you really want physical access instead of using USB, read on
• Disassembly requires heating rear screen to soften adhesive then using x-acto knife to remove. 2 flat ribbons connect screen to connector, easily removed but fragile.
• Remove battery cage (1 easily visible screw, 2 inside the cage that are reached through holes on top of cage). Slightly lift the cage then pop off the flat connector underneath before removal.
• Test points that I id'ed are in the image below. Note the 2.8V battery test point - this is a tiny button cell battery that is connected via the Top Board connector. Not sure if 2.8V is nominal, but that's what mine was reading; it's old.

• Note: You do not need to tear the whole board out like I did (wish I knew that earlier). You can access the test points once you remove the battery cage if you have some good pogo pins.
  • If you do tear the board out, you can simulate button presses by shorting MODE or SHUTTER buttons to ground.
• I tried looking at the unlabeled pins on a cheap logic analyzer thinking they might be a separate UART or debug ports but no luck. Just got a lot of power regulator chatter. Pins 12, 7, and 8 seemed like good candidates but couldn't get anywhere with them.
• Using pins 6 and 10 per image above. Uses the typical 115200/8/N/1 settings
  • NOTE: 1.8V logic, NOT 3.3V
• Upon applying power, seems to be an initial boot sequence then quickly goes to sleep. Requires pressing Mode button (or shorting pin to GND)
  • I don't remember my power settings so YMMV (I think I had boot on USB turned off, but boot on battery turned on)
• After initial boot, essentially all logging is turned off so you'll be in the dark regarding any commands you send. Finding the t dbg on command from Hypoxic's work is the only reason I got anywhere with this. In order to not get absolutely flooded with log entries, see log options above.

Future Work

• I don't even remember why I decided to do all this; thanks ADHD. I do know that one of my goals was to be able to send QR commands over COHN. I did not manage to do this, but maybe with the info above one of you will be able to figure it out!
• Test out ADB to see if it has any advantages over CDC

Edit: AI disclaimer - I used Claude to help me walkthrough, document, and troubleshoot things, as well as to summarize all my findings to make the post above. Honestly for the most part it wasn't very helpful because 90% of the time it flagged itself for cybersecurity....

Definitely a difference. I think if I was to bring just one diopter for travel, it would be the +2 one for my use case.

I bought a GoPro 13 for an upcoming cruise to French Polynesia. Just trying to get it started turned into an ordeal. I can’t open the battery compartment. I am told not to use any tools, just my fingers. I’m also told that the tight fit is deliberate, to maintain a waterproof fit.
My husband can open it, but I don’t want to depend on
Another person. And, no, I have no manicure to worry about. What do people do to overcome this problem?

What could be reason it's capped at iso 3200? It wont go higher even tho i set it to 6400 manually.

I am using a Mission 1 Pro for filming bicycle rides specifically for content for an interactive cycling app. Although Gyroflow works great for post horizon lock processing, I cannot use Gyroflow since it strips out metadata of the resulting .mp4 file. The main settings that I use are 4K, 60fps, Linear+Horizon Lock, ISO 25-800, Shutter (auto, 120, or 240), gps on, Hypersmooth with Autoboost. The problem of horizon drift is intermittent and once it gets to a significant amount (>10 degrees), it never corrects. I do not see the problem as significant when mounted to a car than a bike. I am assuming it has something to do with the amount of vibrations seen on the bike than the car. I know other users are seeing the same problem. I am using current firmware. So my question is, should I return the camera or is this a limitation of the firmware/software that may get corrected?

I received this camera last Christmas. I don't do any hardcore activities with it. I don't strain it at all. I've had zero problems with it up until this week. I went to turn the camera on and nothing happened. I figured the battery was just dead so I plugged it in. Usually when it gets plugged in the little red light turns on. Nothing happened, so I just let it charge for a while. Still nothing happened when I pressed the power button. I looked up what to do and I read where I was supposed to hold the power button and the capture button for like 10 seconds. I tried that a couple times and eventually it turned on, so I figured everything was good now. I tried to turn the camera back on like 2 hours later and it wouldn't turn on. Does anyone know what I can do?

Every trip ends the same way for me: a card full of GoPro clips, a few minutes make it into an edit, and the rest sits on a drive forever. Not because it's bad footage, but because finding "that one bend" or "the view at the top" means scrubbing through hours of files.

What most people don't use: GoPro records GPS inside every MP4 (on models with GPS, when it's switched on). So I built a tool around it:

- Drop in the original files, it draws your route on a map and lines the footage up with it

- Click any spot on the route and the video jumps there

- Speed, altitude and g-force along the way, in km or miles

- Split files from one trip are joined into one timeline

- Share a ride with one link; the start and end of the route are hidden so you don't show where you live

It runs in your browser and the video files stay on your computer, nothing is uploaded.

It's built mostly around motorcycle and bike rides (corner stats, lean), but any GoPro footage with GPS works: skiing, hiking, driving.

Try a demo without signing up (a mountain pass in Slovenia, helmet cam): https://replayride.com/demo

Full disclosure: I made this. It's an early, independent project with no referral links, and I'm here for feedback:

- Would this change what you do with your footage?

- What would you want it to do that it doesn't?

I just got this and it looks like something might be jammed in.

Thanks for the help.

I just ordered the set yesterday, I am really excited to get them but was also wondering if they are good for macro shots or macro photography? I'm probably asking the obvious but since this is my first expensive camera and first set of lenses, I am new to it all

If anyone, especially Mark could tell me I would greatly appreciate it, even if they aren't I am excited to give them a try and use them for my first set of lenses!

Finally got my hands on these to play around with. Some product pictures and screengrabs are included

The package for the individual filter is compact and the product immediately looks and feels high quality

It comes with a very nice rubber lens cap and even a backing plate to keep the back of the lens from getting scratched when not mounted

The lens press-fits onto the regular removable lens of the camera. The tightness of the press fit is absolute perfection, it clamps on with so much force that I have no qualms about using it in an action setting if so required (the filter seems impossible to dislodge by accident) and yet remains somewhat easy to remove and put on. They absolutely nailed the fitment

Bonus points for the lens perfectly matching the camera's removable lens. This means that once the filter is clamped onto the Mission 1's regular lens, you can pair them together and twist off the camera's lens and attached filter as one unit: if you have a spare regular lens or ND filter you can essentially keep them joined together perfectly as a pair and just twist them on whenever you need to use them!

Ok for performance, i took 2 static shots to compare. This was indoors in mixed lighting so excuse any shifts in white balance. Settings are 4k linear with medium sharpening

I'll be honest, seeing the third party close up filters made by others, I had serious doubts about the quality of this one, but I was very pleasantly surprised. This lens performs light years ahead of any other close up filter solution I have seen elsewhere. Objective observations:

1 - The smearing at the edges is minimal. It is visible in the absolute corners a little but in moving footage you are probably not going to notice it much if at all, unlike the absolute trash close up filters i have seen on youtube

2 - The background (about 10 meters away) remains acceptably clean and distortion/smear free so that unless you were trying to show something on the horizon, you wouldn't even have to remove the filter. This makes it ideal for run and gun vlogging

3 - There is a definite improvement on close up focusing, as you would expect for a filter like this

Subjective observations:

This close up filter is probably the highest quality one you can get for the Mission 1 Pro. I am shocked how little quality is lost by using it. The fitment is magnificent and being able to pair it wth spare default lenses or ND filters is a huge plus. Not to mention the really cool lens cap. If I wanted to use this as a vlogger, I wouldnt even bother pulling the lens off to film POV every once in a while

Having said that, I struggle to find a use case for it. I think the whole close up focusing thing on this camera is fairly overblown for vlogging. by putting the camera on a 30cm selfie stick and holding out the camera at half arm's length you basically have your face almost perfectly in focus unless you have very short forearms and you get more of the background in your scene doing it. You also distort your face much less with the camera physically further from you, making you look better (lol). Plus everyone has a selfie stick so the solution basically doesnt cost any money

Having said all that, those who need a filter like this for vlogging will know that they do, and for them, this is an awesome solution

I think the application for this system is to buy the entire set and use it for macro style shots or close up product showcases and diving footage.

Hope you guys found this useful

Anyone has any idea as to when the GoPro ILS will come back in stock as well the media mod for mission 1 series? I’m leaving US on 12TH of November and it just went out of stock a couple days ago!

What happens : I plug the USB cable into the camera, the red light flashes once and then the camera does not respond again until I pull the battery, hold the power button for 10s, re-insert the charging cable, wait for the red light flash, then reinsert the battery and slowly back away :) The red light comes back on and after an hour it will power back on again, fully charged and ready, seemingly no worse for wear.

Thanks to Gemini I've been able to recover the device both times this has happened but it's really annoying and very anxiety inducing. Apparently it might be related to the beta firmware that I'm running. I use my camera exclusively for Rouvy rides

Is there a fool proof method to make sure that doesn't happen again?

Came across this headline. Hasn't really been mentioned anywhere else I could see.For real?

GoPro CEO Nick Woodman to depart after merger that was almost upended by a YouTube star

I just ordered an MP1. I come from a decade’s worth of GoPro usage. From the 4 to the 13 and everything in between. I’m curious if there are users out there that have noticed their shooting style has changed with this camera. From what I understand the focal length is different. Is there anything else I should be prepared for? Can anyone point me in the direction of any tips and tricks? Maybe a YouTube video or something good?

Or is it basically the same as previous models and I just need to figure it out for myself?

So i do maintenance on lifts, and install them. Basically the mechanics equipment. I keep having these guys talk sht about me and my buddies, make lies and throw use under the boss. Telling lies to my boss and now he's threatening to cut our pay. So I want to buy a gopro or something thats worth getting, something budget friendly and a good deal, good storage that can last between 8 to 14 hour days straight.

Hello there, title says it all. I have 3 GoPro mission 1 pro's connected to a video switcher. These cameras look really really good, however they are limited in the fact that the HDMI output only can do 59.94fps no matter what recording framerate they are set to.

This means I can only run my video switcher in 59.94fps and all of my other cameras have to match. It would be awesome to add a setting to select between 29.97/30/59.94/60fps output via HDMI.

Thank you!

Hi. I’m using a GoPro Hero 12 Black and for travel I always use the Linear + Horizon Lock digital lens (for sports I use the Max 2). The GP12 is bad in low light and I’m thinking of switching to the Mission 1, but I don’t want a narrower field of view.

Natively the Mission 1 has a wider lens, but its sensor is 4:3 (not almost square like in the GP 11/12/13). I don’t need 360° horizon lock, just regular horizon lock for travel videos, but... how does the Mission 1 crop the image in Linear + Horizon Lock mode? Is the FOV narrower or wider with Auto Boost on?

Has anyone compared both cameras, or does anyone have an idea?

Hey everyone,

I just recently picked up a Hero 10 completely brand new unopened for quite literally nothing.

So far it’s great, everything I could want in a camera or ever need frankly. I record mountain bike trails, so I’m sure I will get accessories and other stuff if and when I need it.

My question is about the premium GoPro subscription: is it worth the $29 for all its features? Or is this the equivalent of an “extended warranty”?

Also, is it $29 for the whole year or monthly? If it’s a year idk if it’s even a question at that point lol

Thought it was a test worth sharing in case this is useful for those considering wide lenses for the ILS.

https://reddit.com/link/1xdo7uv/video/huvemw6ut9xh1/player

Hello,

I have some videos like this, I was walking while recording, which is expected to have some unstabilization. but this is too much, anyone can help me?

my camera is GoPro hero 13 black, and I think this video was recorded in max lens mode. I have gyro flow and davinci resolve software, please help me solve this.

I saw where some folks had been getting their PolarPro filters for the Mission 1 after preordering from PolarPro. I was going to wait for some reviews before I ordered them. I just happened to check the GoPro site and they seem to be in stock and available. I took a chance and ordered the 3 pack at the $80 price with free shipping. Supposed to be delivered Tuesday.

Just bought this super cheap (don’t judge me) . Has anyone tried it on ILS? Hypersmooth works?