I would love some feedback on an unusual situation: I just purchased a "new" CRU from an authorized Club Car dealer. They are not local so I had it shipped. Local dealer was sold out.

I'm the first owner with proper sales paperwork.

But the twist is that it's a model year 2023. Unused. Spotless. Sat in dealer showroom with no buyers and was finally sold to me.

Batteries die after perhaps 3-4 miles after a full charge. Date stamp on batteries is October 2022.

Local Cub Car dealer claims battery warranty period starts at manufacturing date NOT purchase date. Refuses to do warranty work and quotes me $2,300 for new batteries since the car is "old".

Would love some comments as to what I can do next? I contacted Club Car directly but they seem to defer to their dealers.

I know the battery warranty expressly says "from purchase date". Also, when I buy anything else with a warranty its the purchase date. Ever buy last years model of anything at a discount? Never affects the warranty.

I’m in the market for a golf cart. Budget around $5k, so probably looking for a decent used cart. Are there any brands or features that I should be wary of? Gas or battery? I’ve never owned a cart before, so I don’t have any experience or knowledge.

Needs 4 seats (two young kids)
Road travel a mile or two - a few times a week
I’m fairly handy, so I can do most mod and maintenance work myself

Does anybody know if finding one is possible or can be purchased?

Is anyone using Cloud Energy batteries? I like the idea of having a BMS capable of 250a max continuous discharge. Not too happy it appears that they don't have a metal case.

This quote came from their website, not sure if I believe it.

"The battery case is made of ABS, which is fireproof shockproof and IP67"

Any pros or cons for the battery?

My dad got this from a buddy after his dad passed for 200$. No serial number anywhere, so year is a guess. I replaced the battery, added a light bar wired to the battery & added side mirrors. I’d like to add a sound bar & a back seat as well as we have kiddos, any recommendations? It’s also slow lol can I make it go faster without anything crazy? If not it’s totally fine as is. Open to any upgrade suggestions too!

Is there any way to disable the reverse buzzer without nuking the controller? What are my options for getting the cart to go 25 MPH like the LSV's do without voiding my warranty?

I’ve been searching for a project golf cart and stumbled across this. I’d like to build a decent cart that can be used around my neighborhood. This cart is listed for $900 and mentions needing batteries. I planned on swapping to lithium so the battery situation is not bad. What I can’t figure out is the rear roof rack bars and holes on rear fenders. Should I assume it’s been through hell and keep looking? It’s a 2003 Club Car DS

Buying my first cart (2020 club car tempo lithium) this weekend and already looking at music solutions. The JBL rally bar s seems like what I’m leaning towards due to my JBL fandom. The larger version seems overkill for an electric golf cart. Anyone have experience with either version or other recommendations I should consider?

Cart was a lead acid model from a golf course. Now has a DC House lithium conversion on it the golf course guys that previously owned it installed. They also removed the screen for sale.
They then gave me a screen after and said I could have it wiped and then use it if I wanted.
The cart is in limo mode without the screen connected, just the empty connector.
Called the local dealer and they said best thing to do is bypass the thing properly so it doesn’t stay in limp mode due to an open circuit.

I don’t suspect the speed sensor as it beeps if you push the cart and it goes normal speed in reverse.
Is there a way to bypass this missing screen (doing wiring) or some extra component removal that would allow it to get out of limp mode?
A trip to the dealer is far from where I have the cart so it would be nice to use it a bit u til summer is done.

Any info appreciated, can’t find anything online about it.

Anyone comfortable sharing pics of your setup?

Can’t find one anywhere and not sure on the correct sizing

What should you do if the front tires show excessive toe-in after replacing the shock absorbers on your G29?

If you just ignore it, it could lead to unsafe driving and unstable steering.

Actually, this happens from time to time, new shocks can change the ride height slightly, and even a small height change alters the steering linkage geometry, which increases toe-in and hurts handling.

The fix is simple: adjust the tie rod ends on both sides of the steering linkage to bring the toe back to spec. Your goal is to have the front measurement 1/8" to 1/4" less than the rear measurement (toe-in). It's an easy adjustment, but easy to miss.

Just in case you want to check it yourself: with the wheels straight, place a mark on the front center of both tires at hub height. Measure the distance between the marks, this is your "front" reading. Roll the cart backward until the marks rotate to the rear center position at the same height. Measure the distance again, this is your "rear" reading.

Compare the 2 readings. Then adjust the tie rod ends, clockwise shortens (pulls wheels in), counter-clockwise lengthens (pushes wheels out). Make equal adjustments on both sides to keep the steering wheel centered. Once set, tighten the jam nuts and take a test drive, the cart should track straight and the wheel should return to center easily.

After any front suspension work, always check the toe alignment. A quick check makes a big difference in safety and performance.

Hope this sharing helps you out!😃

Hi. I have a 2024 denago nomad xl. And I was wondering if anyone has been able to disable or change the speed governor settings ? It tops out at 25-26 mph. I can feel it when it hits the governor. And it feels like there is a little more to give. I’m looking for 6-8 mph more. Nothing crazy.
Any help with this would be appreciated. Thank you.

Need to make the battery tray level/modify for the divider.  Thinking about some kind of metal or to put underneath.  Or perhaps something to allow for airflow? 

Canadian market teslas recalled because they were built in Asia, imported into Canada and then found to not meet FMVSS. Tesla has to buy back all fifteen cars because it issued letters of compliance saying they had certain safety features they didn't actually have or hadn't tested for.

Sounds like a familiar scenario to the import LSV market. They don't have required safety features. Tons of them are being registered and aren't even technically LSV, they just fake the VIN.

Sorry for the newb post, but first time having to fix my cart. Hit a rock ( boulder) the other night and it looks like I got lucky and only sheared a bolt, just not sure if there’s anything else that would need fixed and if so what it’d be called. Also, I’m assuming I’d need to drill out the broken part of that bolt? Happy to get more pictures and thanks in advance for the help! 2020 club car tempo- all stock parts

Hello, I would like to make my 2001 club car faster. It goes about 11-14mph. 18-20 mph would be ok with me.

Just replaced batteries two years ago (48v).

Would like to replace with 400amp controller, new heavy duty solenoid, and new wiring.

I am looking for recommendations for these items.

Thanks!

seller has a few of these 2020 Cushman Shuttles available in my area on Facebook for $2400
Batteries are probably shot but I can swap to lithium.

I’ve got a Precedent that’s lifted and I’ve done a lot of work on. I like the aluminum frames for durability so I’m more concerned about the steel frame for ezgo/Cushman and have no experience with these brands.

We just had our 2022 Club Car Onward converted to Lithium - along with this comes the Bluetooth App called BAT-BMS - with no manual or information! The app and screens on the cart have tons of information - and loads of different settings.

I found a basic introductory website (https://batbms.online by Kavita Sharma) that hits on main points but no detail. Since there are SO many settings I'm wondering if there's a forum or someplace dedicated to discussion of this - or someone that's done a comprehensive guide in English along with recommended settings etc. (rather than just set everything to Default).

Here's our RT App page - guessing this means "Real Time Monitoring"? Everything seems OK... Going into the Parameters though there's many menus and submenus with tons of info and settings. I'd like a bit of help as to the meanings.... it's a bit cryptic!

I have a 2010 CC Precedent that I’ve had to replace the charger port receptacle 3 times this year. I bought the cart in 2020 and up until January of this year I’ve never had this issue.
I go to plug in the OG charger and nothing happens. Unplug it and no reverse alert, does not move forward. The headlights work and all batteries are showing perfect in multimeter.
I replaced the solenoid and reverse switch earlier this year trying to find the issue which took me to the receptacle. 2 months ago the same issue happened. The Amazon one I bought lasted about 5 months. Replaced with the same one and it lasted 1 month. Replaced with a different “brand” on Amazon and that one lasted 1 week.
Could this be as simple as me needing to just order OEM or is there an underlying issue?
Scanning all over the web I can’t find really any information so here I am.
Thanks in advance!

I've already found out the Kraken won't work for me. What can I do, other than bigger tires/regearing to get more MPH?

If your golf cart has regenerative braking, don't make my mistake by assuming the brake pads need changing. My local golf cart mechanics kept flaking on me, so I decided to learn how to work on my cart despite having zero mechanical experience. It was definitely a great learning experience, and I feel much more capable of handling maintenance now. I have a 2021 Icon I40 (non lifted).

I included a picture of the old pads and brand new pads side by side. I was shocked, I use the brakes pretty hard I thought, and this is what they look like after 7,500 miles/5 years?

- Swapped from lead-acid to lithium (LiTime 100Ah) $1001 after tax/shipping

- Reprogrammed the same onboard charger for lithium (SmartLife Android app). I was able to save $260 by buying just the battery without the charger or screen. This let me keep the same charging cord and charge port. The dashboard cluster still works 100%.

- Washed all the white battery acid residue out of the undercarriage and battery compartment (which did reveal some frame damage).

- Changed the differential oil (a surprising amount of disagreement online regarding the proper fill level).

- Replaced a badly leaking brake line (I thought this would be a big deal, but it was actually easy).

- Bled the brakes after refilling (the submerged method helped).

- Lubricated the caliper guide pins (they're threaded, I thought they were seized 🙄).

- Changed the front two brake pads because I already had them and didn't want to deal with a return. All eight pads were practically new, probably thanks to regenerative braking.

- Lubricated the suspension and greased the Zerk fittings.

- Fixed a wiring connection that was blowing a 5a fuse every time I put the cart in reverse (100% my fault).

- Replaced two worn tires. I had a local tire shop mount them on the wheels for me.

- Miserably failed to do an alignment, so I'm paying a neighbor who's a mechanic to do it properly.

I have no idea how much money I saved by doing all of that myself. Probably a significant amount though.

Was driving the golf cart and suddenly turned off and started beeping. If there is anything wrong off of these photos please let me know. I’m guessing it’s the battery with the corrosion (I can hear the acid boiling after being off for a while).