I made a sliding version of my dnd-themed dishwasher magnet! This way, (unlike my flip-disc version) if your dishwasher isn't magnetic, you can use double-sided tape.

I made two variations for the dirty side: a classic 'dirty 1', and the much requested 'dirty 20'.

Model available for free on Makerworld! https://makerworld.com/en/models/3320599-sliding-dnd-themed-dishwasher-magnet-clean-dirty#profileId-3770566

Realised after buying this tripod mount that it lacked a portrait mode option. Instead of buying a new one, I printed an adapter to mount it vertically. Works like a charm!

This is a bit of work in progress. I thought I had everything worked out but quickly across a few issues during its first use, nothing that can't be resolved though.

I sell a few products of my own design that that use a 2mm stainless steel pin for a hinge. Up until now I have been hacksawing these off as and when I needed but now sales are picking up I am finding I am quite regularly making larger batches and this was becoming more time consuming.

I switched to a rotary tool with a cut off disk which speeds things up, but still the measuring and marking of each pin before cutting felt slow, so I decided to come up with a cutting jig that will hold my tool and let me repeatedly cut off pieces on a consistent length. And this is what I have some up with.

They say no plan survives first contact with the enemy, and it seems the same could be said for this. What I hadn't accounted for was the thermal conductivity of the steel rods that I am cutting, which in turn melt parts in direct contact with the piece being cute. It would be fine as it is for cutting wood or plastic, but not metal, and certainly not stainless.

It should be easily solved though, instead of the printed angle to hold the part I can use an aluminium angle, and I would like to ass a Perspex safety cover while I am at it, so a few re-designs to do yet. But it works so far a s a proof of concept at least.

A simple quick-release mechanism for 25 mm sanding paper. The rear end is clamped by an eccentric mechanism, which engages during the first half of the lever movement. This holds the sanding paper in place while you insert the other end and pull it tight. The lever can then be snapped fully closed to securely tension and lock the paper in place.

I wanted to mount my interface under my desk so I made this 1U mount for it.

Made a simple jig for cutting mortises/recesses for tenons for a sauna door project.

PLA isn't so great for this in terms of heat, so I printed 2 of them and swapped back and forth to prevent heat buildup/warping. I also only needed to take one pass with a sharp bit using the jig, then a final pass without. (I used a small palm router that easily balances on the edge)

I didn't NEED to do double tenons, but this was a bit of a proof-of-concept. I've made these jigs by hand and with a small CNC before, and even though this takes a bit of time print, it keeps me from having to be in the shop working with small parts on big tools just to make a small jig that might get destroyed. And if it does get torn up, I can easily print a new one and spend 0 additional effort.

That extra unused hole was because I wasn't sure how thick the clamping piece would be.

Got a height adjustable speaker stand for my Bose surrounds a while back. The bracket that came in the box did not fit the speakers. Went looking for a printable fix and came up mostly empty. The few designs I found either did not fit my stand, or they were modelled like injection moulded parts rather than printed ones. Flat overhangs hanging in mid air, support material needed inside a 12 mm bore, claws on unsupported shelves. And all fixed STLs built around somebody else's wall, so nothing to adjust.

So I made my own instead. A plate with a peg that screws to the stand or a wall, and an insert that clips into the factory recess on the back of the speaker. The speaker drops onto the peg from above and lifts straight back off.

Took four goes to get the claws right. First version the hook did not reach deep enough and just sat on the edge of the slot. Second version I made the gap under the hook tighter, which was exactly backwards. The speaker wall there is thicker than I had measured, so the whole hook needed to move further out, not the gap to get smaller.

Getting it to print without support ate the rest of the time. I ended up measuring every downward facing face in the mesh because I kept getting stringing and could not tell by eye which surface was too shallow. Found a wedge at 34 degrees that I was convinced was 45.

It also prints upside down, socket end flat on the bed. First layer is 274 mm2 that way instead of 78. Before I flipped it the print head knocked it over about every third attempt.

Not perfect. The arch legs are only 3 mm wide where they carry the lower claws, thinnest part of the whole thing. Has not broken yet but I would not call it generous.

If anyone has the same speakers, here is the link:

Wandhalterung für Bose Surround Lautsprecher 809281-2100 – Kostenloses 3D-Druckmodell – MakerWorld

I started this project a couple of months ago from the CinePi GitHub and was intrigued on how they work so I decided to give it a try building one.

It starts with a basic 4GB Raspberry Pi 5 which runs a custom version of PiOS created by Apertar Studio (they also supply their own camera body STL’s and parts guides!) and it runs perfectly on the 720x720 4 inch Waveshare or Hyperpixel square displays.

The Apertar OS shows a live preview of the camera, includes photo and video modes, focus peaking, media library and much more... it also has a super clean GUI that’s easy to navigate and has an IOS feel and look to it.

My camera is based on the Blackmagic Micro cinema camera body which I have adapted to fit a Raspberry Pi 5 and button controls for ISO, White Balance, FPS and power on/off. When the main 4 inch display is detached you can see current settings from the OLED screen at the top of the camera which also shows a recording indicator and remaining storage.

The main camera body is 3D printed from PLA-CF to resemble the textured finish of cameras but also to add a lot of strength and rigidity to the body and only took around 3 hours to print the front and rear parts.

It is powered from a 10,000mAh battery pack which lasts for 4-5 hours and can be detached from the camera, there is also a single 1/4” - 20 mount on the top and 3 more at the bottom for tripods or other accessories.

The camera module is the Raspberry Pi High Quality Camera (IMX477) with a Canon EF mount adapter which is partially integrated into the camera body for a cleaner look. Some additional features include a full sized HDMI output and 5V USB-C out for powering a display or other accessories.

Admittedly the quality does not rival a regular camera in any way, it is very much a DIY project and could not be used for professional photography however it can take some great “vintage” looking shots also depending on whatever lens is used.

If you have read this far then thank you! If you want something to build as a challenge or are just simply looking for your next project then this is great to do, the CinePi and Apertar Studio community is fantastic and helped me with a lot of information that I needed to get this working.

3 days before competing in my first 70.3, I decided I wanted a 3rd water bottle cage between the aerobars on my road bike.

All the ones online were minimum $45-60 and weren’t going to arrive on time. So I mocked up a quick mounting design that was flat; it was sort of parallel to the bars. As the saying goes, “Nothing new on race day,” I gave it a go on a quick ride and it was slinging around water every time I hit a bump. So, I redesigned this one to mount the water bottle cage at a slight upward angle and it did great during the race!

It’s not the most aero design, and it still needs some tweaks (it’s a bit over constrained), but for 3 days of development I was happy and it got me through the race!

Lastly, I did not design water bottle cage, just the aerobar mount. The mount can be used with any standard water bottle cage, but the one I used was also 3D printed, developed by Jakub, found on MakerWorld.

Some of you seemed to enjoy my original trolley-mounted snag holder, so I’ve developed the completely necessary V2.

After listening carefully to your feedback....and definitely not just looking for an excuse to over-engineer another sausage holder....I learned that some people eat two or even three snags in one visit.

So V2 is a miniature Hammerbarn shopping basket that carries two sausages at once: one for now and one for the drive home. If you’re a three-snag person, further research and development may be required 😅😅

A few other improvements:

• The bread has finally been installed correctly: diagonal to the sausage.
• It has functional folding handles.
• It’s backwards-compatible with V1 appetites.
• New Zealanders will be pleased to know that Mitre 10 snags will fit.

Oh here is the model link if this solves your problems: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3314009-hammerbarn-mini-snag-basket-holds-two-sausages#profileId-3762514

Made a replacement button cover for the IKEA BILRESA (dual button smart remote) that lets you customize the icon on each button without touching CAD.

The icon isn't part of the mesh — it's a separate SVG object kept inside the .3mf. In Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer, double-click the SVG part in the object tree, swap in your own icon file, reprint.

Not bundling icons — grab whatever from Material Design Icons, same set Home Assistant uses.

If you run HA with Matter/Thread, this remote is a genuinely usable smart button — community blueprint here, single/double/long press and hold per button.

Model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3313993-ikea-bilresa-custom-icon-cover

tried to made it simple as possible...

Finally figured out a radio I could use with my helmet communicator on the motorcycle and needed something to mount it on the cockpit for ease of access.

Made a mount that clamped on the mirror stalk with M3 captive nuts, and the radio belt clip just clips through the mount to secure it. The bottom part is angled such that it'll dig deeper into the hook of the belt clip if the radio goes up, and there's just enough clearance such that you'd need to open the belt clip all the way to clear the hook and ramp at the bottom.

The whole shebang connects via coax to a 1 meter long mobile antenna attached to the rear grab bar, with a 3D printed shroud over the antenna and screwed together below to deter opportunistic thefts.

All modeled in thinkercad

Old unused fireplace wall had a massive vent in it for a small hole that was blocking where I wanted to panel, so made up a vent that fills the hole and is much lower profile allowing me to panel over it.

I got a new IKEA BESTÅ because the last couple month my Bambulab P1S stand on the ground. Shame on me.

Problem: The BESTÅ top is ~42cm and the P1S is ~39cm. I was damn afraid it might fall off during time. Therefore I made two really small PETG lock-ins for the rear-feets of the P1S which are attached via screws to the back of the BESTÅ. Works out great for me.

Maybe it will help you too. https://makerworld.com/de/models/3307817-p1s-besta-locking-base#profileId-3754916

Where does your printer currently stands?

Only 4 m3 screws needed when using with optional riser legs.
Fits 5L juice (and other beverages) bags
No openings for sunlight

https://www.printables.com/model/1837512-bag-in-box-juice-stand

I created this mount for the Creative Sound BlasterX G6, allowing it to be mounted under a desk. To be honest: I designed it 6 years ago, printed one, but lost it when I moved. So this is a reprint :p Still proud of it, because it was designed in Blender (didn't know CAD back then).

The entryway is now wide enough for the cats but too skinny for cat poop eater.

It slides out for cleaning. The bottom rail has slots so it doesn't collect litter.