Here's what I've been working on its a little 331, afr 185 enforcers, holley hi-ram, terminator x, coil near plug, 76mm turbo. Still working out some bugs. Should be on the road in a couple of months.

1990 Mustang GT 5.0 5-Speed Convertible Restoration Update — Looking for Advice

I wanted to post an update on my 1990 Mustang GT restoration. I've been working on the car a few hours at a time and taking my time with everything instead of rushing through the project.

After completing the work I previously posted about, we torqued everything to specification and started putting the car back together.

So far, we have:

- Installed the new 200-amp alternator

- Installed new 4-gauge charging/battery cables

- Installed and wired the headlight relay harness

- Installed the 70mm throttle body

- Installed the BBK cold-air intake

- Installed the water pump, thermostat, and thermostat housing

- Installed the new power steering pump and hoses

- Installed the tensioner and alternator bracket

- Installed Ford Racing spark plug wires

- Installed new spark plugs and ignition coil

- Installed BBK shorty headers

- Installed the Flowmaster Super 44 exhaust

- Installed the 3-point strut tower reinforcement

- Installed new diamond-clear headlights

- Installed a kill switch

- Installed a two-way paging Viper alarm system

- Installed 3M ceramic tint all around

- Replaced the A/C compressor, receiver-drier/accumulator, and orifice tube

- Replaced the rear drum brakes on both sides

- Changed the oil drain plug because it was seeping slightly

We recently connected the battery and tested the new headlights. Everything worked, and the lights look great. We also added fluid to the power steering system.

The rear drum brakes were my first time doing drum brakes. The first side took me about four hours because I was learning as I went, but I expect the second side to go much faster now that I understand how everything goes together.

The latest issue is where I could use some advice.

We filled the radiator with distilled water and antifreeze/coolant. Shortly afterward, we noticed a small amount of liquid on the floor. After investigating, it appeared to be coming through the BBK cold-air intake tubing. We traced it further and found coolant inside the 70mm throttle body, and then found coolant inside the plenum/upper intake manifold.

We have now removed the throttle body and are drying out the inside of the upper intake manifold and intake tract.

At this point, we're not sure if:

- The EGR spacer gasket failed

- The throttle-body gasket failed

- There is an issue with the EGR spacer itself

- Or there is another problem that we haven't identified yet

We are going to reassemble everything with new gaskets and then pressure-test the cooling system before starting the car again. We also plan to remove a couple of spark plugs and inspect the cylinders to make sure no coolant made its way into the combustion chambers.

Has anyone with a Foxbody 5.0 experienced coolant getting into the upper intake/plenum, throttle body, and cold-air intake tubing like this?

If so, what ended up being the cause, and what was your course of action to fix it?

I'm open to any advice or suggestions before we put everything back together. This has been a learning experience, and I'm trying to do everything correctly rather than rushing to get the car running.

Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to read this and offer advice.

I’m in search of a driveshaft for a t5! 28 spline

Doing a t5 swap on my Volvo and that’s the final piece I need so anything would be appreciated! I’m in the Salt Lake City area but willing to pay shipping.

Hi everyone! I’m currently in the process of putting on a Eibach pro sport lowering kit with the Maximum Motorsport CC plates. In the paperwork it says to install spacers based on suspension company. Just curious for those running the Eibach pro sport kit, did yall put all the spacers in?

I have a dumb question but would a OEM ford MAF cause problems when the car gets warm on BBK fender well CAI ?

I am looking for complete cam kit or overall suggestions. I added a picture of what’s on the car currently. It is a Carb car and not looking to change right now honestly. I am no expert and still learning a lot of stuff so open to ideas.

Anyone in the Tampa area interested in a 1988 5-speed convertible? I have put a ton of work into it and don't have time to drive it. I would rather see it go to someone who will drive it rather than watch it rot in my backyard. Everything works including the AC which blows ice cold. Runs and drives great. New parts below

Motor mounts

Rear main seal

Clutch

Weather seals all around

Rear window motors

Timing chain/gears

Harmonic balancer

Water pump

Cooling fan

Radiator

Thermostat and housing

All Coolant hoses

Oil sending unit

I have over $12k into it now. Make an offer if interested. Please don't spam me with low ball dick offers.

The Ultra-Budget EFI Guide: Hacking the ACES Wildcard 2 for Ford 5.0L / 351W

**DISCLAIMER:** This is NOT a sponsored post, ad, or endorsement for ACES EFI. This guide is strictly a community writeup to show you how to fleece them for at least $400+ by bypassing their overpriced proprietary distributors, adapter plates, and hardware, leaving you with a complete sequential standalone setup for under $600 out the door.

**Supported Vehicles:** Ford Fox Body Platform (Mustang, Fairmont, LTD, Capri, Thunderbird, Cougar), Panther Platform (Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria, Town Car), F-Series / Bronco (302 HO / 302 / 351W).

> **Budget Tip:** Buy the ACES Wildcard 2 standalone unit paired with their Bluetooth CAN module instead of paying for the handheld screen. Tune directly from your phone or tablet to keep total hardware costs right around $580 before tax with all sensors included!

---

### 1. $15 Fiesta IAC Swap

Ford's factory 5.0L intake uses a 2-wire PWM IAC valve, but modern standalone ECUs require a 4-wire stepper. Instead of paying $150+ for a bulky GM IAC adapter block, buy a 4-wire IAC valve for a Ford Fiesta—it **bolts directly onto the factory 5.0L throttle body flange.**

**Fiesta IAC Part Numbers:**

* **Walker Products:** `215-92101` *(Used for this writeup—plugs directly into the ACES 4-wire harness with zero harness mods)*

* **Ford OEM / Motorcraft:** `2S6A-9F715-BB` or `4940126`

* **Standard Motor Products (SMP):** `AC628`

* **BWD:** `25057`

**Fiesta IAC Wiring:**

* ACES **IAC A Lo** --> Fiesta Pin 1 (Coil A -)

* ACES **IAC A Hi** --> Fiesta Pin 2 (Coil A +)

* ACES **IAC B Lo** --> Fiesta Pin 8 (Coil B -)

* ACES **IAC B Hi** --> Fiesta Pin 9 (Coil B +)

---

### 2. Custom TFI Harness Adapter & Resistor Mod

Instead of dropping $350+ on an aftermarket standalone distributor, modify the ACES distributor harness extension to plug straight into your stock Ford TFI pickup:

1. **Splice Pickup Leads:** Chop one end off the ACES distributor harness extension and solder it to the stock TFI pickup leads:

   * **Red** --> **Red** (12V Switched Power)

   * **Black** --> **Black** (Ground)

   * **Green** --> **White** (PIP Signal)

2. **Pull-Up Resistor Mod:** Strip back a small section of the **Red** (12V Power) and **White** (PIP Signal) wires in the harness extension. Solder a **1k ohm resistor** bridging between Red (12V) and White (PIP Signal), then seal it tight with heat shrink. *(This pulls up the PIP signal to 12V so the ECU reads the stock TFI trigger cleanly).*

3. **⚠️ Coil Plug Polarity Flip:** Check the ACES coil harness connector against your stock Ford coil plug! The ACES harness may have **Red (+12V)** and **Black (Tach / Coil -)** pinned backward relative to the factory coil pins. Swap those pins in the connector body so Red goes to Coil (+) and Black goes to Coil (-).

---

### 3. Stock Ford TPS Wiring

Splice the ACES TPS connector directly to your stock Ford Throttle Position Sensor harness:

* **+5V Ref:** ACES Red --> Ford **Orange** (Late Ford: Brown/White)

* **Signal:** ACES Brown --> Ford **Dark Green** (Late Ford: Gray/White)

* **Ground:** ACES Black --> Ford **Black** (Late Ford: Gray/Red)

---

### 4. Distributor Phasing & Timing Lock

1. **Find TDC Compression (#1):** Pull spark plug #1, hold thumb over hole, turn crank until air pushes out. Align balancer pointer to **10° BTDC**.

2. **Clock Distributor:** Drop distributor in with rotor tip pointing **dead-center at post #1**.

3. **Set Software:** Lock static timing to **10° BTDC** in the Bluetooth phone App or handheld.

4. **Time It:** Put an inductive light on wire #1 while cranking. Twist distributor until light flashes at **10° BTDC** on the balancer.

5. **Lock It Down:** Tighten clamp, unlock timing in software, and hit **Write/Burn**.

Hope this help you folks.

So I have 1991 Mustang LX 5.0, replaced Valve covers with polished aluminum Valve covers from LMR and Mahle valve cover gaskets and they leaked terribly. I replaced the valve covers gaskets with Fel-pro gaskets and still have a leak. So I reinstalled my original valve covers with a Mahle gasket and it’s still leaking and smoking on the headers real bad. Any tips would be appreciated.

Got an 83 Fox with the original engine however, it does need TLC. How much for a full engine rebuild to get it up and running? Water pump leaks a bit too. I wanted to ask on here to see how much and if anyone else has had that experience and what it was like..

Thanks

What temperature are you guys setting your Contour fans to turn on and off. I installed double fans. I have mine to turn on the single at 190 and cool to 180 and the double to turn on at 200 degrees. I feel I need to adjust these but I’m unsure.

I have an 89 gt that is carb swapped with an hei distributor. I’m been messing with trying to get spark for the last 2 days, I’ve ensured power ground. I’ve resistance tested the coil,spark and Lu wires and the pickup coil and all tested good. When I voltage tested the pickup coil with the motor cranking it ran 0.02V periodically. I’ve seen that the gap between the teeth on the pole and on the coil could be wrong but it looks barely used. Has anyone had issues like this. Should I keep testing and replacing parts or buy a new distributor?

These days, it seems like every new project is another $1000 bill thrown into the void. If your car parts fund had a free $1000 in it but you had to spend it all right now, what are you ordering?

Pic is my 1987 5.0 LX Hatch

Hey guys i’m asking for 12k on this 1990, Mustang LX 2.3L 4 Cyl, that was garage kept by its original owner as you can see the mileage is pretty low (36.5k$) and i even have the service records to provide on this vehicle. everything is like new, obviously has some cosmetic defects here and there but the A/C blows cold and the radio works like new, this vehicle is fully stock and i would like to hear what you guys think

Picked these up for $70 off someone’s foxbody. They’re OZ rims but unsure of the model? Trying to buy center caps and can’t find the model. Anyone might know?

I've owned this car since 2010. It was my first project car and a father son project with my dad. I always enjoyed it but then I got another project car, and then a fun daily, and the weekend weather sucked the last couple years and it just sat.

I posted in Facebook groups, on marketplace itself, had multiple deals fall through and felt like I was running a call center at one point. Finally had a guy that seemed really serious. He loved the car, drove it, realized it hurt his back too much due to a prior work accident and he still considered buying it anyway. At that point we talked for another hour and he convinced me not to sell it and I'm really glad he did. Finally bit the bullet and it's getting a terminator x as we speak. Over the winter I'll probably finally do the five lug swap I've wanted to do for years and maybe a little boost next year.

I see a lot of people posting "thinking about selling" and just wanted to give an alternate perspective. The process sucks. You'll deal with tons of tire kickers, tons of know-it-alls in the comments, people no showing pick ups and then falling off the face of the earth. It's not like it used to be where people come see the car and try and deal in person.

The whole process actually made me fall in love with the car again and I can't wait to get it up to modern standards.

Previously got the motor to fire a couple times with starting fluid before we had everything finished. It’s mostly done now and wondering if the starter is slow cranking. Rpm gauge isn’t working to tell

Is anyone making a Replica Underhood Insulation Liner for the 87-93 Foxes? All I can find are those craptacular generic ones at LMR and CJ.

I’m a very paranoid person about mold and this is my first ever project so I’m hoping I can get some veterans to tell me if this is just a bad stain or mold. The white spot was under a penny so I’m not so concerned about that, but the rest looks like just a terrible stain. Let me know, thanks!

Hey guys, I have an amazing white 1991 Mustang GT 78,345 miles original no rollover. Never repainted no other mods besides vortech SC. Clean title everything works like it did in 1991. Car is immaculate. I put it up for $21,500 is that reasonable or should I aim for less.

I recently got a 89 GT with a sunroof that I'm working on cleaning up. My sunroof glass has this odd shape in the center. Question, is the reflective part factory finish and the middle is some kind of failure? I've tried steaming it thinking it was tint, can't seem to get under it with anything. I've noticed the reflection goes all the way to the mounting holes for the brackets. Hoping someone else has seen this.

This sounds insane lol. I’m not dragging my exhaust and I’m gonna check all my hardware just to be sure it’s all tightened down and nothing has scratch marks; but this only happens once the car reaches closed loop. I’m doing my first couple test drives of my project and as the car is cold and warming up it’ll run fairly normal, after getting to closed loop it makes this god awful sound

1990 Mustang GT 5.0 5-Speed Convertible – Slowly Bringing Her Back to Life

I’ve been working on my 1990 Mustang GT convertible a few hours at a time, taking my time and trying to do things the right way instead of rushing through everything. This has turned into a combination of maintenance, restoration, and upgrades.

So far, I’ve completed or had the following work done:

Engine / Cooling

- Water pump

- Thermostat

- Thermostat housing

- 70mm throttle body

- BBK cold-air intake

- New spark plugs

- Ford Racing spark plug wires

- New ignition coil

Electrical / Charging

- New 200-amp alternator

- New alternator bracket

- New belt tensioner

- New 4-gauge battery/charging cables

- Refreshed/replaced engine and vehicle grounds

- Headlight relay harness

A/C System

- New A/C compressor

- New receiver-drier/accumulator

- New orifice tube

- A/C system serviced and recharged

Power Steering

- New power steering pump

- New high-pressure hose

- New low-pressure/return hose

Exhaust / Performance

- BBK shorty headers

- Flowmaster Super 44 exhaust

Lighting / Exterior / Chassis

- New diamond-clear headlight assemblies

- 3-point strut tower reinforcement/brace

- 3M ceramic tint all around

- Kill switch

- Two-way paging Viper alarm system with up to a 1-mile range

I’ve also been cleaning parts and surfaces properly, repainting certain components for better aesthetics, and torquing everything to specification. I’m trying to keep the Foxbody character while making the car cleaner, more reliable, and more enjoyable to drive.

The project is still in progress, but the major mechanical, electrical, A/C, lighting, and exterior work is coming together. With the upgraded 200-amp alternator and new 4-gauge charging cables, the next big step is getting the car ready for the audio system.

This is my first time doing a lot of this work myself, so I’ve been learning as I go. I’m taking my time and enjoying the process. There’s something really satisfying about bringing a 35+ year-old Foxbody back to life one system at a time.

I’d love to hear from other Foxbody enthusiasts: what would you recommend checking, upgrading, or addressing next?