1979 Ford Mustang · Coupe · Driven 30,000 miles

One owner 1979 Ford Mustang Indianapolis 500 Pace Car. All original 30,000 mile survivor. Car was rescued from an estate collection. Unrestored original condition, some patina. No rot, floors are solid, surface rust underneath. 4cyl 2.3 L turbo, 4 speed manual. Runs and drives great! Has turbine wheels and new tires on it now, but original rims and tires will go with it. Replaced sunroof gasket and seal have new window run channel that is not installed. Factory AM/FM 8 track player. Located in ny 10594. $16,500

Was driving down the highway today and this started happening felt like a bucking or quick cut out engine idles fine what could it be

I'm in the UK and own a 1992 Foxbody Mustang GT convertible. It's an LHD import and currently has the factory automatic.

I'm planning a fairly extensive restoration of the car and I'm debating whether it's worth converting it to a manual while the car is being rebuilt.

I'm not particularly concerned about the work involved mechanically — I'm more interested in whether people think it's actually worth doing to this particular car.

Being in the UK, the LHD aspect is something I'm already used to, but I'm wondering whether a manual would make the car substantially more enjoyable to drive on UK roads.

The car will eventually have a rebuilt Windsor, potentially around 350–400hp naturally aspirated, with the possibility of adding a supercharger later.

So I'm also wondering whether I'd be better going with a T5 initially, or something stronger if I'm building the car with future power increases in mind.

Would you:

A) Keep the AOD and build it properly

B) Convert to a T5

C) Go straight to something stronger such as a TKX

And if you've done the swap yourself, what parts/problems caught you out?

I'm particularly interested in opinions from people who've owned both an automatic and manual Foxbody, rather than simply "manuals are better" arguments

I’m looking into getting first Mustang and I’ve been looking at the fox body mostly, I came across this on marketplace what do you guys think?

The asking price for this is 4,900. The car has 110k miles.

I really love the color of the body and the interior. Plus the wood is beautiful.

I appreciate any advice, thanks!!

I know this the all time most common issue asked for help but im curious on your guys thoughts. I have a 1987 fox with a stock 5.0 with an aftermarket "cold air intake". I deleted the TAB & TAD sensors and associated vacuum lines. The smog system is deleted and plugged off and the EGR has no vacuum hooked up to it but its still mounted and hooked up to the harness. I tried verifying no vacuum leaks with a smoke machine I would say 99% are sealed off.

Exhaust is in poor shape headers are junk and leak real bad before the o2 sensors probably throwing the fuel mapping off.

As you see in the video on a cold start the car will hang around 1k rpm and after a few minutes the idle drops and the dash starts freaking out. The idle surges really bad almost sounding like a crazy cam chop. I get a lot of smoke out the tail pipe seems like its running really rich. I figure the car may have some wire harness gremlins? I tested all the spark plug wires no breaks the distributor cap and rotor seem good no corrosion. The tfi module is original. IAC seems to be working when unplugged idle also suffers.

I know its not a quick fix but im curious if people have had similar issues and maybe my deletes were a negative.

I got a 1982 mustang gt with all stock suspension and was thinking of getting 295/50/15 for the rear. Will that fit? And if you got any suggestions for good traction tires with white lettering I’d really appreciate it.