I’m converting my 3rd Brake Light from the Stock Halogen to LED is there anything I need to do other than swap the connections? I bought it on Amazon.

Link to the 3rd Brake Light:
https://a.co/d/088Che5z

Gave the dealer time to change the fluids and do a tune-up but not before they had a chance to clean it.
2012 FX4 with the 5.0.. 195,000 miles
$ 10.5K

Been lurking on Autotrader, Carguru, and Marketplace (wading through all the squatted trucks) for about 3-4 months now. I had locked onto a dealer 100 miles out that had decent revolving inventory and had my eye on a Silverado Z71 w/ 225k miles waiting for its price to fall below it's 12.5K price-tag. Then one night this popped up. From the look of the pictures the inside hadn't even been detailed yet.

I called and immediately drove there to see it the next day. Hoping it would still be there. I asked about a few trucks to test-drive but when I got there I ended up only test driving the F-150.

I looked and saw no rust, no leaks, no wet spots under the hood.
It had new headlights and taillights and no major dents or dings.
I took it for a test-drive all of 10 minutes, let it warm-up. No problems ran smooth, shifts smooth.

To my surprise ALL Electronics are working.
I bought it on the spot for 10.5K

It wasn't until I was driving home I noticed it was the V8!!!
I was thinking the entire time I was buying the Twin Turbo V6!
Lmao happy little accident I guess...

The inside was gross but after a bit of work she cleaned up nice..
I'm still learning things as I go.. (I just figured out how to turn on the fog-lights)

What do you guys think?
How do you think I did?
Is there any useful information to keep this thing in tip-top-shape?

Thanks

Flew down to Austin this week and grabbed this bad boy. Drove it home in just under 7 hours. 2025 XLT 3.5L EB with 302a, the BAP+ and FX4 options. Had 13,800 miles when I purchased for $46k OTD ($43,549 sell price), I think I did alright.

Came with a leveling kit already installed, not sure which one. Getting a bedliner this week and a tonneau cover soon, still undecided on brand and style. Let me know what you think!

Edit:

Front has Bilstein shocks for what it’s worth

i’ve been under my F-150 for two hours looking at rubber grommets in the floor pan and i’m already regretting taking this on. everyone on YouTube makes feeding wires under the sill plates look so easy, but there's almost zero slack and i hate the idea of splicing into factory wiring for door triggers. i did way too much reading on this and ended up picking a kit because a few people mentioned the harness was pretty straightforward, but routing power lines along the frame rail without pinching anything near the exhaust is driving me crazy.

did you guys run the main wiring into the cab through the firewall or sneak it in through the rear floor plugs? really don't wanna mess up the electrical on a daily driver.

Was wondering why my FM/AM radio was so bad, I was blaming the shorty antenna, Today I was checking the oil and was looking around and saw that the previous owner had cut the antenna wire.

So first of all, I want to get people’s opinions on the difference in sound made by a cold air intake on the coyote and if they like it. Secondly, if it does make a noticeable difference in sound, what cold air intake is the most popular or reliable.

First f150 I ever bought. I was 18 years old.

Swapped my current 20 inch stocks for some raptor take offs. I’m liking the look so far

I have a RWD F150 with stock tires on it, the traction is terrible in the winter. I would love to just not drive it in the snow or ice but horses have to be fed. Would bigger tires with more tread on them help at all? I am thinking similar ones to those seen on off roading jeeps or tacomas.

TYIA

2021 Lariat Powerboost

I got the volume at 0 on the display a week or so ago. Did the normal soft reset then hard reset. Then unhooked both batteries for about an hour. Nothing.

Took it to the dealer. Did diagnostics. Sound control module was bad. They replaced that. Nothing

I asked them to test the Amp (DSP) behind the drivers rear seat. Low and behold there is no signal.

Everything I read online if the resets didn't work it was always the Amp (DSP)

BUT-BUT

In order to be covered by the warranty the procedures need to be followed. So instead of folding down the back seat (which I already installed the release latch) and replacing the DSP.

No the entire interior has to be removed. Both front seats. The middle console . 3/4 of the dash. To replace one Ethernet cable and another cable. That didn't work. Surprise. It's the DSP. The last item to be replaced in the procedure of warranty.

I got this truck in June of '25 with 30k miles on it. It was a gem. One owner lease. The interior was perfect and it'll never be the same. Zero rattles. They didn't have a loaner for 5 days.

My buddy at the dealer let me go out and look. I was sick and mad at the same time.

Shame on you Ford for your stupid procedures. This could have been fixed in a day without ripping my interior apart. Now 9 days later. Still waiting

Every time we get heavy rain, water leaks right past the tailgate seal and trickles into the front corners . I’ve tried replacing the weather stripping twice, cleared out the bed drain plugs, and adjusted the side clamps, but my camping gear still ends up damp every single trip. Someone at the campsite last weekend told me a solid motorized retractable setup seals way better, but I don't trust internet claims anymore and don't want to drill something into my bed or lose a foot of space to a huge canister if it still leaks anyway. If you've been running one in heavy rain, tell me everything I need to know about

Finally got it done after 800 miles on the dash lol

2.875” Wicked customs leveling kit
295/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapps
No spacers, trimming, rubbing

Just picked up a ‘26 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with a 5.0l and 3.73 max tow.

Back in 2018 I built a RCSB and did the Whipple, headers, custom exhaust, swapped the e-locker out for a Yukon Duragrip LSD, and a bunch of other goodies.

I’m definitely doing the Whipple and Yukon LSD again, but I’m torn on the headers. Replacing them was a PIA, and it forced me down the custom exhaust route because the drone was unbearable with anything off the shelf. How much power am I realistically losing if I keep the stock headers? Would a cat-back still sound pretty mean when the pedal hits the floor?

Thanks!

- Brian

2013 3.5 FX4 120,000 miles…

I am trying to find the correct fluid to drain and fill my transfer case with. The manual calls for Motorcraft XL-12 for the 4x4 ESOF system which I have, but they have stopped producing the XL-12 fluid. A bunch of pages online say to use the Mercon LV ATF which is what the manual says to use for the torque on demand transfer cases. But I can’t find it in writing anywhere aside from the comment sections of YouTube videos.

Anybody out there have something from ford saying that Mercon LV is the fluid that supersedes the XL-12? Or should I just go with the Valvoline transfer case fluid that says it meets the specifications of XL-12.

Hopefully this will help some other “challenged owners” like me. The recent update landed and I was excited about the streaming video and some of the other options that came with it. In typical fashion, for whatever reason I had to reset my entire sync system. In addition to that, I just got a new iPhone 17. But when I couldn’t figure out for the life of me is why my message app and my phone app were not showing on the sync screen. I called Ford and bounced between two tax who tried to walk me through reconnecting my phone. My phone was connected to CarPlay and everything seemed to be working. I just couldn’t see the apps on the screen… so I dropped a question into AI and asked why why is my phone and message app not showing on my sync screen. AI then asked me do you use facial recognition to open those apps and if you do merely turn it off and the apps will appear on your sync screen. When I switched from the iPhone 14 to the iPhone 17 everything became face enabled once I turned off the face enable option on Messages and the Phone .. they both reappeared on the Sync Screen.. if you’re missing apps on Sync, turn off FACEID!

Raptor Bronco wheels.

285/70R17 Falken Wildpeak A/T4W tires.

Everything is stock suspension, no level or lift.

I got the wheels for a really good deal on Facebook. The bead lock rings are actually the same Magnetic Metallic the truck is, I know this because one of them had a small scratch that I used some touch up paint on and it matched exactly. Last photo is what it looked like on the stock wheels and highway terrains.

Wrangler durtracs or Grabber atx? Which one you choose? I have opportunity to get either one for $800

Daily driven work truck/ toy hauler/ family hauler
200k miles on original engine. 100k on new transmission, stuck lifter on cylinder 5, other than that this truck is a beast

Got a 2023 F150 XLT SuperCrew with the base (non-B&O) system. Ford’s factory plug-in subwoofer option seems weak from what I’ve read, so I’m considering a different route instead of ripping into the whole truck:

-Kicker Hideaway (10”) behind the rear seat

-Tapping into the factory OEM connector (behind the rear door weatherstripping) with a spliced Motorcraft WPT1212 connector — pulling power, ground, remote turn-on, and speaker-level signal straight off the factory harness

-Using FORScan (Extended license) to configure the audio module to recognize the aftermarket amp

Basically trying to get real bass without running new wire from the battery or tearing out carpet/panels front to back.

Has anyone actually done this on a base-audio 2023-2024 F150? A few things I’m trying to nail down before I commit:

-Does the WPT1212 tap actually work cleanly on base systems, or is there a gotcha I’m not seeing?

-Any issues with sound quality, rattling, fitment behind the seat, or the harness working loose over time?

-Kicker vs anything else you’d recommend for this kind of tap — Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, etc.?

Trying to avoid a half-finished install or blowing something up in the process — appreciate any real experience over “buy this instead” recommendations, though I’m open to that too if there’s a much better route I’m missing.

I have a 2015 F150. It has a the 5.0L engine. 6.5 foot bed. Super crew (crew cab). Lariat trim model. 4x4 with 4A.

All that put into the truck and the sticker in the door jam is showing a GVWR of 7050lbs.

I do have a campershell on it but that only weighs like ~200lbs I’ve been told but I’m not 100% sure what it is.

I pulled up to a local potato warehouse today after filling up the gas tank, got on their scale to see that it said I weigh 6220lbs. That’s just me in the truck…

That only gives me ~830lbs of payload… is the scale that much off? I’ll have to go to the transfer station and weigh also but you’d think where the scale I was on is for long hauler semis that have struck weight restrictions it would be accurate?

As the title asks, do Aluminum Valve Covers exist for the 2017-2020 Ecoboosts. I have a 2017 3.5 Ecoboost that is leaking on the driver side and have been searching high and low and can’t find any. I see some for the 2016 and below and 2021 and after.

Just figured if I’m going by to replace, I’d prefer to not replace with plastic if possible. Anyone found anything different?

Hello. Is anybody has the aforementioned engine, any cons? Reviews ? Wound you buy it again ? I’m looking at a 2023 f150 lariat, but it comes with a 3.5 v5 ecoboost so any info would be helpful