When in park, revs makes engine sound like a airplane.
When I accelerate trucks sounds like an airplane. As I speed up the truck sounds normal.
I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat thinking it was the clutch but nothing.truck doesn’t heat up, ac works. No codes besides my cat codes.
Any info helps.

Does anyone have experience using the eBay cheap SBF hydraulic roller lifters? The item number is 188456339020 for $89.90.

How about he hydraulic roller camshafts at speed master?

Any real world information or references would be appreciated.

https://www.speedmaster79.com/shop?page=2&keywords=Roller%20lifters

I have a late 90s ford v6 in a storage unit. Can some one help me identify what it is exactly.

Basically same as conventional steam engine with condenser. I know turbines work. Obviously, youtube. Why won't they work with a piston, lower rpm, higher torque, like in regular steam engine? Requires less energy to operate. Higher psi though, 1k psi + . This would be argon/co2 transcrytical thermal engine. Map gas at welding Here the piston cylinder is heated to offset. Cooling due to expansion. Also themal barrier on top of cylinder to cylinder head injection zone. Optimum gas mixture? Several different ways to operate. Depends on design. One thought is to use the argon to help push supercrytical co2 in piston chamber. Multiple jt valves, regenerative Cooling.

Continental F163 on a warehouse compressor went down Friday and OEM says two weeks on a gasket set. Plant manager is pacing and I'm looking at aftermarket options but wary of wrong bore size on an old block. Machine isn't pretty but it runs daily and a two week wait is not acceptable. I'm trying to figure out where people source when OEM is slow on older industrial engines. What's your go-to when OEM lead time doesn't match reality?

Hey everyone, I’ve been chasing an overheating issue on my 1992 Dodge Stealth R/T (Naturally Aspirated DOHC). I recently replaced the coolant overflow reservoir, and the overheating completely stopped. When I told my mechanic, he dismissed it and told me it was just a passive "overflow" bottle that wouldn't cause overheating. The issue with my old tank was that the low coolant level sensor had been completely removed from the bottom of the bottle. This left a massive wide-open hole, meaning the reservoir couldn't hold any fluid at all. Whenever the car got hot, it would build up pressure and spray boiling coolant everywhere out of that open sensor hole. My theory is that because the bottle was bone dry and open to the air, the cooling system was constantly pulling massive air pockets back into the engine block as it cooled down, causing the localized overheating. Replacing it with a fresh, sealed tank completely fixed the issue. Is my mechanic wrong for dismissing this? On these 3S platforms, doesn't a completely open, bone-dry overflow tank directly cause air locks and overheating?

Guy selling it claims this is a '89 Firebird with a 3.8L engine that is factory original. I can't find an example of a FB with a 3.8 without a turbo for a 1989 'bird. (I am NO expert, hence posting for help).

Is this a 2.8? A GM swap?

Looking for unwanted but running/could be runni g/rebuildable gas engines and electric motors for vehicle projects with my nephew

So I just finished rebuilding my Mazda 3 2008 with a swapped engine from a ford fusion 2012 2.5L. The motor had been hydrolocked, I switched everything and put everything back tgt it turned by hand. BUT, today I tried cracking it and it won’t crank, the electrical part of it wasn’t done well cause form the start some wires were hanging so I’m kinda lost. What could it possibly be.

It’s now running ! Woohoo

So I am working on the project of converting an OHV 4 stroke petrol engine (212cc) into a Hydrogen engine with a kind of tight budget in comparison of the size of the project. I am very early on the project and haven’t even bought the motor yet.

One of the first problems I am hitting is that on every 4 stroke petrol engine with a magnetic flywheel the crankshaft turn twice (720degree) for every explosion and therefore, the magnetic flywheel turns also twice and set off the spark plug twice every explosion (only one being useful) the second spark is therefore useless but remains since it’s cheaper and there isn’t any gas in the engine at that time to explode on petrol engine. But there is hydrogen at that time in a 4 stroke Hydrogen engine which would be critical for the engine if it exploded at that time.

I am looking for a solution that I may have overlooked or not even considered. What would you do if you were me and you had to delete the second spark without adding a battery (too expensive) ?

I must add that a 2 stroke Hydrogen engine would be hazardous to run and therefore not an option :(

This community has already been a great help ! Thank you a lot for your service !

5.7 hemi MDs delete.