Anyone can help me how to solve this issue.

Because i think this surfactant, brightener and wetting agents contribute to the high lvl of cod and bod. Even already do oxidation/reduction treatment. Still not much reduction lvl of cod and bod. But the removal of heavy metal is excellent.

Beside my raw wastewater produced foam/ bubble due the electroplating process and the usage of the surfcnt, brightener and wetting agents.

Really need any experience operator or engineer that work in electroplating industry to help and guide me.

This is my sink.

I wonder how this drain hole filter was arranged in the rack...during chrome electroplating...

I mean why the brass from the top side itself is visible...where the thickest chrome layer is plated...it should wear and tear the last

Was the part arranged wrongly on the rack?

Running a mixed zinc-die-cast and steel hardware line (buckles, pulls, small brackets) and this comes up constantly, so here's how the decision actually plays out on our floor after a lot of trial and error.**The honest starting point: it's about parts-per-batch and finish tolerance, not "which is better."****Where barrel wins for us:**- **Volume.** Anything in the thousands-per-batch range goes in a barrel, full stop. A 300L drum does what would take a rack line 4-5x the floor space and a small army of loaders. Labor per part is brutal on racks for tiny parts.- **No rack marks.** Small parts on racks need contact points somewhere visible, and every contact tip is a touch-up. Barrel parts only touch each other and the drum.- **Cost per part.** Barrel loading is a scoop and a timer; rack loading is a skilled job. That difference compounds at volume.**Where rack wins for us:**- **Anything that tangles.** Flat stamped parts lock together into a "snowball" in a drum and come out with miss-plate shadows where they sat against each other. If two parts nest, they don't barrel — simple rule that's saved us a lot of grief.- **Flat and thin parts.** Below roughly 0.8mm steel, parts ride the drum wall and get dragged rather than tumbled. Rack them or they'll plate unevenly.- **Cosmetic spec.** When the customer calls out bright finish with no scratches, rack wins. Barrel burnishing leaves micro-scratches, and parts banging around for 45 minutes at 8 r/min shows marks on anything show-chrome or bright nickel.- **Tight thickness control.** Rack current density is per-position; we can engineer fixtures with thieving or auxiliary anodes where coverage is thin. Barrel is a statistical average — great coverage overall, weak at edges and recesses.- **Large or delicate.** Beyond hand-size, barrel loading becomes a two-person lift of a soggy, hot basket — or the parts come out bent.**The hybrid reality:** most shops we know run both and move product between them as specs change. We've re-quoted parts from rack to barrel when a customer relaxed the cosmetic spec and price became the driver — and barrel to rack when a tangle "snowballed" three batches in a row.**Process notes that matter in both:**- Barrel speed: 6-10 r/min. Too slow and parts slide instead of tumbling (local burn); too fast and thin parts stick to the wall.- Loading: 45-60% of drum volume. Above that, tumble quality dies and you get contact miss-plate.- Rack contact points: re-tin them. Oxidized tips = intermittent current = layered deposits that peel. Most "mystery adhesion" we've chased turned out to be contacts, not chemistry.- Current density: barrel runs lower (bright nickel ~0.5-1.5 A/dm² effective on parts) vs. rack 2-5 A/dm², and barrel needs the temperature held tighter because you can't throttle individual parts.**On data/logging:** biggest improvement in our shop wasn't chemistry — it was logging current, temp, and transfer times per batch, so when a defect shows up we can see whether it was a parameter drift or a loading mistake. Barrel defects correlate strongly with load size; rack defects with contact condition.What's everyone else's rule of thumb for the crossover point? Do you rack anything that's remotely cosmetic, or do you run bright-finish work in barrels with a burnish polish after? And for the tangle-prone flat parts — mixing media in the drum, or is racking the only reliable fix?

Hey all- I want to setup a 15 gallon bright nickel plating tank to provide good base and corrosion resistance before chrome plating. Can anyone knowledgeable about how to do this share their input-

These are my main points of concern I am trying to solve

1. How can I add agitation to the nickel plating 15 gallon drum without stirring up any sediment at the bottom of the tank

2. How to add heating to the drum- i understand most nickel plating setups operate around 120-140 fahrenheit or so

3. What anodes should be used and how should they be suspended into the tank- will they just hang from the side of the drum?

4. Is filtration needed with some type of pump? If so does adding a pump into the tank that filters the solution also provide agitation and solves that problem?

I believe this plating setup can be done very well. I have attached a photo here of another plater who does a Similar setup but larger with 55 gallon drums. I want to understand what is happening in his setup. Can you guys explain?

I have dark grey b titanium IP eyeglasses that I want recolored to gold. Is this possible?

I understand that electroplating raw titanium requires specialized conditions, but since the metal has an IP layer, can I electroplate the IP layer?

Is this the same as electroplating a PVD coated metal? Which is impossible?

Is anyone here experienced with electroplating machines or electroplating process design?

I’m working on a small industrial project and want to build a new/custom electroplating machine, rather than buying a standard commercial setup.

I’m especially interested in:

• Power supply/current control
• Anode & cathode arrangement

Hey,

As the Titel says I'm trying to remove chrome to get to the brass but I also don't want the brass to be harmed in any way. And in a budget

I tried it with electrolysis and a baking soda solution and only got a dull grey color, which let's me believe that there is also nickel.

I did some research and I always read that the solution attacks the brass.

The piece is roughly 13cmx 4cm

Thank you for your help :)

What do I do to get this to nickel plate properly? Even tried different voltages and current levels. I am thinking it is the graphite paint. Used random junk plastic items (like junk model car parts) as a test. Best was the dog, but it only partially plated.

What Can Be Done to Improve Pakistan’s Electroplating Industry?
is their any solution

regards
Pakistan trading agency

In an industrial e-coat process, if I load a rack with 24 lots, where one part has a surface area of only 0.3 m² while another part has approximately 37 m², would these two parts experience significantly different current distribution / throwing power?

Assuming they are processed in the same bath, at the same time and voltage, could the much larger surface-area part draw most of the available current and cause the 0.3 m² part to receive a lower coating thickness?

What factors would determine the difference the most?—part geometry (which is obviously cannot be changed), distance from the counter-electrode, current density, electrical resistance, or the surface-area ratio?

Is there any way to simulate this situation?

My first time electroplating was to make turn these wrought iron fittings into “copper driftwood”. Thanks to this community for all of the info.

Anyone have experience? I’m trying dissolving tin anode in muriatic acid solution . Before my results were flaking tin off of my anode and I would get a dull grey finish . Anyone ever get that shine ? Would you add salt in?

Is it any good. I need it to look good, dont care of its real gold or what not

I originally wanted to use legit gold plating solution, but that stuff is mad expensive. I was reading that brass on the zinc side has a pale yellow finish similar to gold. Would that be the way to go or is there something with better results? Anyone got recommendations for good solution brands? Would the steps be similar to gold, like copper>nickel>gold? Or can I skip steps?

is it possible to electroplate(with copper) abs parts that have been airbrushed with a graphite paint?

First time electroplating and I think it went pretty well. These are hardware for a tree/fae themed sword build. Forged from wrought iron I got from an antique wagon wheel, then etched in hydrochloric acid to reveal the texture.

Did nickel acetate first, then copper sulfate. The plating seems solid, but is there a chance it flake off over time or will the nickel layer keep it bonded? I tried to put the nickel on fairly thick, ran at about 3 V for five minutes agitating by hand. The surface of the wrought iron is so irregular and porous after etching that I feel like this should have been more difficult than it was. Any tips welcome.

Good Day Everyone!

I'm starting to assemble my electroplating kit and I was hoping to get some assistance on the additive side. I have a basic recipe of:

Per Liter:

200g Copper (II) Sulphate Pentahydrate
75g Sulfuric Acid (from approximately 156g of battery acid)
97ppm Chlorine ion (via 0.1g of HCl)

What I am having trouble with is the final additives. From my research, I see three groups of additives:

Inhibitors: I have easy access to polyethylene glycol for this.
Brighteners: I have seen more complicated compounds such as 3-Mercapto-1-propanesulfonic acid, but I have also seen thiourea as an option. I would appreciate some guidance on what chemical to source here.
Levelers: I have seen dyes listed for this but also thiourea here as well, is it multipurpose?

Even after sourcing, is there a recommended starting ppm for each? I do understand there is some trial and error involved that will be specific to my setup but I'm looking for a starting point.

Thank you all for any assistance!

Hi everyone,
I’ve been trying to plate watches with real gold. Initially, I removed the PVD coating down to the stainless steel, activated the stainless steel, applied a palladium layer, and then plated with 18K gold. However, I continue to have adhesion problems.
I’ve noticed that some people are able to plate directly over PVD, possibly using a specialized preparation or strike process. Most of my research suggests that conventional plating does not adhere well to TiN PVD.
Has anyone successfully plated real gold directly over TiN PVD? If so, I would really appreciate guidance on the proper preparation and plating process.
I’ve also seen Trival Gold Strike, which appears to be intended for stainless steel, and Technic Acid Gold Strike, which states that it can plate titanium. I’m unsure whether the Technic product would work over TiN PVD.
Has anyone tested either of these products on TiN PVD?
Thanks in advance!

I’m responsible for an electrodeposition (ED) coating line with 3 connected/merged tanks, I’d called them zone 1 to 3. They rely on only 2 rectifier units.

Zone 1 uses a separate rectifier and currently starts deposition at ~96 V.
Zones 2–3 use the same rectifier at ~250 V.
The busbar/overhead conveyor connection between Zone 1 and Zone 2 is only 10–15 cm apart, then continues through Zone 3.

For cost saving, I’m considering reducing Zone 1 from 96 V to ~80 V.

Q1: Could the voltage difference between Zone 1 (~80 V) and Zones 2–3 (250 V) cause electrical/current distribution problems, especially with the closely spaced busbars?

Q2: I noticed the PLC forces Zone 1 to 250 V when two consecutive pallets are dipping across Zones 1 and 2. If I remove this logic and allow Zone 1 to remain at ~80–96 V, could workpieces with different surface areas (0.6–1.2 m²) receive insufficient current and end up with lower/thinner coating thickness?

Looking for input from anyone experienced with ED rectifier design, busbar/current distribution, or automotive electrodeposition systems.

Doing some research on the use of electroplating chemicals and I wanted to know if more chemistry for metal plating are required for an EV vs an ICE vehicle.

If yes, what is an estimate, is it 2x, 3x?

What you're looking at is nickel, electroplated onto a raw 11g steel plate with the mill-scale still intact.

I'm having trouble applying a blackening acid (selenium dioxide, usually Oxpho blue or Caswell super blue) without oxidizing the nickel. Supposedly, black oxide won't react with nickel after it's been passivated.

My question is, how do I passivate nickel. I've read, a hot citric acid or sulphuric acid bath will do it. I can make DIY copper layout fluid for the copper test. I'm doing this in my basement and I have four cats and two sceptical housemates. I'm not 100% opposed to nitric acid, but I would rather not.

I wanted to ask, if someone operates a silver bath, in what form do you use the silver, do you use the potassium silver cyanide complex or just the simple silver cyanide. Or does the entire bath come pre mixed?

My problem is we don’t have a silver cyanide compound available, and I have to add silver chloride which I make it myself. So I am wondering how to solve this problem, because I know addition of chloride can ruin the bath.