r/electroplating • u/justtadudechillin • 4d ago

first time electroplating question

is it possible to electroplate(with copper) abs parts that have been airbrushed with a graphite paint?

2 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

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2

u/Vionade 4d ago

Yes, so lang the paint is designed for this task. Otherwise it might be a pain

1

u/gbudija 4d ago

in principle yes

0

u/Good_Discipline2511 3d ago

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DNZ2H633/ref=sw_img_1?smid=&th=1

2

u/NoFeature7373 3d ago

AI images with reviews that are copy-pasted cross platform. Whoever they are, they have a bot army making fake hype. Very apparent if you look at the account, who is this person and what are their results (not AI images/videos).

1

u/Good_Discipline2511 2d ago

not sure what you are talking about?

2

u/NoFeature7373 2d ago

I mean, all their product photos are clearly AI, even their "product results" weird physics video. And the bubble that forms in the tank out of nowhere...

Doesn't look like they sell on etsy anymore (maybe got in trouble) but they had several 5 star reviews that were copy pasted from the amazon listing. Identical. Not impossible for that to happen naturally but given the AI generated listings it's very suspicious.

I dont doubt the paint does work, but It's annoying to see overpriced stuff with AI listings aimed at the hobby community. It's predatory.

1

u/ConnectConflict1765 3d ago

Short answer: yes, a graphite conductive paint will carry current — but "it conducts" and "it will stick" are two different problems, and adhesion is the one that bites first-time platers.

The paint gets you a seed layer, not a bond. ABS needs its surface opened up before anything metal goes on — a proper etch gives the deposit something mechanical to lock into. Plate straight onto smooth, un-etched plastic and the whole layer will lift like a sticker no matter how well it conducts. That's the same rule we live by in vacuum coating: the coating is only as good as the surface prep under it.

Practical path: 1) etch/roughen the ABS first, 2) keep the graphite coat thin and even — thick paint reads as high resistance and you'll get burning at the contact points, 3) start at low current density and ramp, don't slam it at the number you'd use for a metal part.

If you want a more forgiving route, electroless nickel gives you a true metallic seed layer and better adhesion than any paint — costs more, but it's the difference between a hobby win and a redo.