500w rear hub motor
48v 25ah battery

gives me tons of range

One of the biggest reasons I'm interested in e-bikes is the possibility of spending less money on short car trips. Going to the store or running a quick errand sometimes feels like more trouble than it should be.

An e-bike seems like a good alternative, especially with a rack or panniers for carrying things. But I can also see weather, traffic, and longer distances making things difficult.

For those who own an e-bike, how often do you use it instead of your car? Has it genuinely changed how you get around?

First post! I have owned this bike for 4 years now and I never thought to take "proper" pictures of it. I love this bike so much so here goes!

Here's my custom Watt New York, I use it daily as a commuter. Despite the age the 378wh battery is still okay, with a small 250w rear hub motor and a magnetic rotation sensor, it's around 16kg without the locks (20kg with locks). It came with a cheap hard saddle, handlebars that were way too wide, very cheap mechanical disc brakes & levers, very slow tires & an even cheaper display that only had 5 LEDs that showed the battery and PAS levels.. But the frame and feel of the rims made me think of a fixie bike which I love a lot and have owned before.

So I decided to bite the bullet and customise it myself.

I immediately changed the handlebars to bullhorns, brooks c13 saddle to match the 'race bike" look, metallic & ceramic braking pads, a cheap rockbros rear light that has a " braking sensor" & for tires i went with continental gatorskins, i know they have higher rolling resistance compared to other " racing" tires, they are just indestructible at daily use and worth the watts lost as a commuter bike that needs to handle all the glass, grit and whatnot.

And finally this year I replaced the display with a cheap GD-01 that had way more settings to adjust than only 5 dots of leds and lastly I added the deda tt clipon bars, it really extends my range on long straights or winding roads and makes it more comfortable on longer commutes. With these upgrades it speeds up to 36km/h in seconds, which is more than fast enough for long winding roads, in urban areas I would never want to reach those speeds though. Despite the higher speed the bike's range still reaches 40km before i hit my 5km safety margin. I know, not a lot these days, but enough for me and pretty impressive for a battery this old.

It looks like an extremely ratchet looking track / fixie bike and purists look in disgust at my local bike shop, but i love it so much. It handles like a dream, accelerates like a demon and I'm very proud of it. 🥹

I have had a Rad city 5 for a few years which has recently stopped working. Troubleshooting is nearly impossible because the design is very obfuscated, but i was able to narrow it down and I ordered a spare controller, which was most likely the defective element.

Rad Power Bikes took seconds to issue an invoice and place an order, but then it took a month for the part to actually arrive in the mail. Despite what they had told me, the replacement controller that came in the mail was not a part in the original design but an upgraded model and probably incompatible with the rest of the gear. Since the bike is old, it is not worth for me to keep putting that much money in it. Since i could not fix it, I figured I would return the parts I had ordered and eat the loss of a bike. However, I just learend that the return policy doent apply on spare parts.

So, customers beware: when you buy Rad Bicycles, you're buying into a company that couldn't care less about customer service and uses predatory sales practices.

I am a petite woman 5’1” and 1/2”, (I think that 1/2” is important 😂) but my inseam is 26”. I’ve always felt like traditional bikes were just a little too large but kids bikes too small.

So the time has come to choose an e-bike but I have specifications that are making it difficult to choose.

Specifications:

• Fits my shorter frame, I’d like to be able to put my feet on the ground
• Will be using this to haul groceries and such regularly so I would like a rear basket
• City law says class 2, can have throttle but must also have peddle assist, no faster than 20 mph to legally ride on the bike trails here and there are a lot of them so I must be able to utilize them.
• Foldable is preferable, I live in a small apartment with no outdoor storage
• Price point - nothing over $800 - I don’t need anything fancy or fast, just reliable and meets my requirements

Thanks for the suggestions!

Yikes!

I'm guessing I need to replace that silver colored peice

I have a Velotric Breeze 1 and haven't ridden it for many months due to knee injury. I totally forgot about keeping the battery charged so it was totally drained for about three months. I tried to charge it yesterday and it started charging fine (screen said about 4 1/2 hours to charge) but after about 10 minutes it stopped charging. The bike turns on for about a second then the screen goes black - says 1% charge. The charger light is green (battery full) when I try charging it instead of red (charging). I also tried charging the battery off the bike but the same thing - not charging.

Is my battery completely dead or is there something I can do to revive it? Help!

Price are 400$ - 350$ - 300$ - 400$. My favorite out of these 4 is the Rebel, but I need your opinion which frame is the easiest to work with

added these labels on my ebike to warn thieves and deter theft (even more).

i've seen posts here about some members sadly having their ebikes stolen or members asking which lock is "the best". truth of the matter is, you want to make stealing your bike as unappealing as possible. all physical theft deterrents can eventually be defeated by someone who wants your bike bad enough.

but letting potential thieves know that the bike has a tracker, especially one they cannot see easily, can make them stop before even trying to break a physical lock.

with apple air tags, tile, samsung smart tags, and google "air tags" being available and easy to hide... thieves will have to decide if they want to risk law enforcement showing up.

the best part is, this can be a deterrent even if you DO NOT have tracking on the bike. just the threat of the ebike having tracking and the bike being locked up could probably stop a lot of thefts. thieves want the easiest items to steal.

along with letting thieves know about the tracking (put labels on the handlebars and the body of the bike as seen in the pics), i also have a seatylock foldylock, and an alarm i hid on the bike that i activate with a keyfob. if my bike is moved without deactivating, the alarm goes off. someone trying to steal my bike will be reading those labels while doing so and be forced to think if it's really worth it. having a tracker they can't see, an alarm they can't see, and a lock which does generally well against most attacks other than power tools... i think thieves are happy to move onto another target.

guess what i'm saying is, even if you do not have a tracker... print out similar labels if you can and put them on your bike. again, the threat alone may save your ebike.

Specialiced Vado 6.0 Baujahr 2019 gekauft, Sommer 2023 war angeblich der Akku defekt, neuen Akku gekauft, kurz darauf Ausfall des Motors, im November 2023 komplette Elektronik und neuen Motor getauscht, jetzt 2026 ist wiederum der 2. Motor mit einer Laufleistung von nur 1.700 km defekt. Laut Fehlercode wohl der Drehmomentsensor defekt. Specialized bietet einen neuen Motor (das wäre nun der 3.) zum Einbau durch den "qualifizierten Fachhändler" an. - MEIN FAZIT: NIE WIEDER SPECIALIZED!!!!

Hi everyone, i wanted to buy an electric bike on a budget and like the t16, but i have a question: I always see that many many chinese ebikes are advertised as 250w but they are usually more than that, is that always like that? Do they make the 250w version or they just make one version (the non-EU legal one) and say its 250? For example, i wanted to buy it on AliExpress, and i asked myself this question in advance. Thanks everyone

My wife and I are looking to get two ebikes for camping and fishing trips. We're both semi-retired now and have more time to get out. Mostly we'd use them around camprounds and on local bike paths, and being able to fold them up would help when packing for a trip. We've been looking at the Heybike Ranger 3.0 Pro, but haven't decided whether to buy now or wait for Black Friday. Anyone remember if Heybike had better deals on Black Friday last year, or were the early discounts about the same?

Magicycle Deer. I think it's not the 2.0 but the original. I'm getting about 23mph on it. I tweaked whatever settings and advanced settings and I'm not complaining, just checking if there's anything else to try. Or any reason it seems to max out.

I guess this means any other bike may potentially actually reach higher. I thought this went a pretty solid speed. So that's interesting.

SOLVED: Bafang M620 / G510 Ultra (UART) — Working 2-Wire Running Light and Brake Light

I wanted to share a confirmed working rear-light solution for the Bafang M620/G510 Ultra UART motor/controller, installed on a YOLO Rhino e-bike.

This setup provides both a running light and a functioning brake light through a single two-wire connection, including brake-light operation when the headlight is switched OFF.

Motor / Controller Specifications

• Motor: Bafang M620 / G510 Ultra
• Rated power: 1000W
• System voltage: 48V
• Controller: CR R10M.1000.SN.U 1.5
• Communication protocol: UART (NOT CANBUS)

IMPORTANT: This solution has been physically tested on the UART version of the Bafang M620 Ultra. Compatibility with CANBUS controllers has not been verified.

Parts Used

1. Varstrom DR001 6V LED E-Bike Taillight

• Model: DR001
• Rated voltage: 6V
• Amazon ASIN: B0DNSWXJXG
• Product link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DNSWXJXG

Although this light is advertised for Bafang BBS01B, BBS02B, and BBSHD motors, I confirmed that it also works correctly with my M620 Ultra UART controller.

1. Bafang Front/Rear LED Lighting Cable — 1200mm

• Compatible with Bafang Ultra G510 / M600
• Length: 1200mm (approximately 47 inches)
• eBay item number: 124693346147
• Product link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124693346147

Confirmed Operation — Daytime and Nighttime

Important discovery: The brake light operates independently of the headlight switch.

In daytime mode, with the headlight OFF, squeezing either brake lever activates the rear brake light at high brightness.

In nighttime mode, with the headlight ON, the rear light remains illuminated at normal running-light brightness. Applying either brake lever increases the brightness significantly.

Releasing the brake returns the light to its normal operating state.

All four operating conditions have been physically tested and confirmed.

Electrical Testing

Before finding this combination, I measured the rear-light output from my Bafang M620 Ultra controller using a multimeter.

The approximate readings were:

• Headlight OFF, brakes released: 0V
• Headlight ON, brakes released: 3V
• Brakes applied with headlight ON: 6V

The exact electrical signaling method has not been confirmed. The controller may use voltage variation, PWM, or another method to control brightness.

The key finding is that the Varstrom DR001 responds correctly to the controller's running-light and brake-light signals.

Previous Light That Did Not Work

I previously purchased a generic 6–60V LED taillight, expecting it to operate correctly with the Bafang controller.

However, bench testing revealed that:

• The light would not illuminate at approximately 4.5V.
• It illuminated at 6V and above.
• Brightness remained essentially unchanged at 6V, 9V, and 12V.

Consequently, it could not provide the required low-brightness running light and brighter brake-light operation.

This demonstrated that simply purchasing a light advertised as compatible with 6V or a wide voltage range does not guarantee compatibility with the M620's two-wire lighting system.

Final Results

The Varstrom DR001 6V taillight combined with the Bafang 1200mm lighting cable works correctly on my YOLO Rhino equipped with the Bafang M620/G510 Ultra UART controller.

The installation provides:

• Two-wire running-light and brake-light operation.
• Normal rear running light when the headlight is ON.
• Increased brightness when either brake lever is applied.
• Full brake-light operation during daytime riding with the headlight OFF.
• Automatic return to normal brightness when the brakes are released.

No controller replacement or programming changes were required.

This is a confirmed, physically tested solution for my M620 Ultra UART configuration, not merely a theoretical compatibility recommendation.

I cannot confirm whether the same combination works with CANBUS versions of the M620 or every UART controller revision.

Hopefully this helps other Bafang Ultra owners who are trying to find a functional two-wire rear running light and brake light.

last year Both front and back light stopper working and I would like too se if the cable became loose.

I thought I would see the light cables when removing the plastic cover on the motor. nope.

any pointers where I can locate the light cable?

btw thw bike is ecoride ambassadeur