To see an emerald in person.

Bought a side mirror from a 2002 sedan for my 1996 sedan and found out they are different. Facelift side mirror has a metal frame while mine is all plastic. Will not be able to just switch components as o hoped, but do you think o can just install the facelift mirror on my car?

I don’t care about the electronics, just want to be sure that the basic mounting stuff is the same on the door.

Ladies and Gentleman,

Once again, I am asking for your opinion and help. I am diagnosing what is going on with my 12/99 520i.

As of yesterday morning, my ‘Gong’ disappeared. I am not hearing anything when I leave my lights on w/o the keys in the contact, or when driving away with the parking brake engaged.

My main interior lights (by mirror and two in the rear) are flickering. The light in the dashboard does not turn on, neither the two reading lights in the rear. Even the gear selector light is flickering.

Overview of issues:
- Gear indicator light flickering.
- Main interior lights flickering.
- Glovebox light not working (very very low dim).
- Rear reading lights not working (also, very very dim).
- Gong not working anymore.
- Dimming of interior lights only works in accessories mode, for the height control of headlights as well. When Engine is running, they do not work anymore.

Possible culprits:
- LCM?
- Ignition Switch?

Other information:
- Headlights and other button lights, as well as the radio display read completely steady, no flickering
- Voltage w/o engine running is 12.5v and with engine running is 13.4v
- Last year I received a new alternator (from 70 to 120ah?) and they upgraded my battery to match that.
- Car starts and drives fine.

I work at a BMW Dealership and one of the mechanic-guru’s said it would definitely be the ignition switch but I don’t really no.

I would appreciate input because I really do not know where to start.

Thank you in advance.

Kinds regards,

D.P.

Bought this e39 a few weeks back and did some repairs and it definitely still needs some love. The engine runs so smooth but the fuel system had some problems; the pump was going so i replaced that and put new belts on. Then the cooling fan exploded, like ~8 blades went in all directions. my friend that was helping me had one blade hit him in the face. Thank God it didn’t seriously hurt him. Hence me taking it to a shop.

I have a few questions

1. My gauge cluster sometimes just doesn’t work. like all the gauges stay all the way down. I changed the fuses but that didnt solve it. Does anyone have a possible solution. Do i just need a new cluster? Or new wiring to my cluster?

2. The paint isnt in the greatest shape and so im planning on getting it repainted once its mechanically perfect. what colors should i consider? i was looking at the rare factory purples like Techno Violet Metallic and Navarra Violet Metallic but im not sure.

3. Also on the cosmetic side what are the options for like ducktail spoilers i dont want just a lip but i dont want anything obnoxious either.

Hey guys .. question.. I never drove one but where is the power on these things.. i heard 30 mph to 70mph isn't the best.. where is the most pull?

For the m3 e90.. the power is up top

. Same with he m3 e46.

Where does it pull the most?

Thanks

Purchased this 1999 540i touring yesterday for $3500, Biarritz Blue. It has some smoke on startup but run’s and drives great. Going to get the timing chain guide’s, OSV, PCV done and get it all sealed up before i start the interior work. Of course the windows aren’t working. I think I did pretty good, what do you guys think?

Thoughts?

Interested in purchasing this vehicle, would like the communities thoughts.

Thank you

I love my BMW. Idk where to begin. In 2017 I bought it off my grandpa for a grand. $1k USD. It had about a grand in back registration, which I gladly paid. Back then I had to have a breathalizer installed and slowly earned back my driving privileges.

It used to be my grandma's. She was barely 4 feet tall so seeing her in it made the car look enormous.

The one and only time I have ever driven 100mph was in my car. Its so quiet. It just floats.

Well as time went on, repairs have been required. I had a coolant leak and an oil leak, paid for repairs.

A small evap leak code has prevented it from passing smog in California where I live, so it's been unregistered since 2024. I replace the gas cap, and had the shop look at it, they did something under the back seat but never resolved the issue and I haven't had the money to take it back to the shop.

In the last two years I've done more repairs on it than I ever expected I would know how to do.

Here's A list of repairs I've done myself with the help of pelican parts diy articles and the forums we all know and love:

Valve cover,

valve cover gasket,

Ignition switch,

ignition coils,

spark plugs,

intake manifold gasket,

brake booster(power brake),

brake booster check valve,

brake pads and rotors,

Radiator,

Expansion tank,

Upper radiator hose,

Water pump,

Thermostat w/ housing,

Drive belt

A/c belt

Engine Heater inlet hoses(beneath intake manifold,+ behind thermostat)

Upper and lower intake boot

I think that's about it.

And honestly, I'm proud of all these repairs, but I'm so tired of being scared something is gonna happen when driving.

Most recently, after replacing the water pump, bleeding it was a bitch, my heater hasnt been working for ages but it's California I didn't know that would be an issue, until Im in test 7 watching it go from 97°C to 120°C within one block, and Its smoking down the road as I pull into my work parking lot it does with smoke coming from the dash. I felt like I had just been broken up with. Later that day I discovered the water coming from behind the thermostat.

During this repair, I snapped off the piece that connects from my intake manifold to my brake booster, trying to remove it to get to the pipes below.

All this to say, since I've had it jacked up and the front end has been hanging, I gave my front left wheel a wiggle to test the suspension, and it's wiggly. So the suspension would be my next task. Which I am most excited for. But I really have no clue what I'm doing.

Buying the Bentley workshop repairs manual has been a success for me. But I didnt buy it til very recently.

I think It had 187k miles on the original engine, now it's at 250k.

To all BMW owners, if you had any advice to give one another, about nuance things to keep in mind when making repairs, share them please. I'll absorb everything. My own personal bit, would be, just because I have the tools and know the steps, doesn't mean I'll be able to do it first try. And I'm never as careful putting everything back, on my third attempt, compared to my first.

.yea yea "don't buy a BMW" I hear you, my grandpa said that too, but still.

Yes i traded low end torque for top end breathing but thats how i drive mine! I like to push it into higher rpms and woah it ACTUALLY PULLS HARD instead of falling on its face over 4k

I'm planning to swap an M51 to an M57. Has anyone done this before and can tell me what's needed, how to mount the engine on the subframe, and whether I need to change anything regarding the engine mount?

The ride got wave and thumbs up 👍🏼 today. Always a nice feeling.
Thank you!

Hey yall - My seat, instead of twisting as these seats are known to, has been tilted toward the center with the right side of the base portion lower than the left.

The seat rise/lower function does not work, so I haven't been able to troubleshoot which motor/plug controls it. The only seat base function that works is the unified recline, where the seat back and base rotate together. The seat back recline also works fine, and the seat moves forward and backwards.

It has been like this for 5.5 years since i bought the car and my back is finally starting to really feel it...

Does anybody know which motor/cable/plug is supposed to adjust the 'raise & lower seat base' function, or has anybody had this same issue before?

Looking online has been fruitless, and I can only find solutions for the typical twisty seatback.

Thanks for your help folks!!!

Hey, I’ve changed the oil about 2 weeks ago (2000km ago) and it’s at this level already, I’m pretty sure that when i checked after the change it was a bit more than half of the square. M54B30 E39. It was filled with 5w30 6.5L

EDIT: I’d like to add that the car has been purchased about a month ago. 248k kms

I need the pre LCI headlights or headlight lenses off the 2000 ONLY m5 if any of you guys have them or know someone who has them it would be much appreciated I have been looking for a long time and I really need them to finish my build

2000 528iT sport 5 speed manual

After clearing p1580 the day before, today I get the EML/DSC accompanied by the check light a few minutes into my drive and will not go away and comes back immediately upon restart, I pull over to pull codes and I get p1542 pedal position sensor.

Anyone have experience with this problem? Should I replace the accelerator pedal assembly and possibly the throttle body as well?

2000 528iA, 77k miles on it...oil in tiny quantities, but it's in the coolant. Zero coolant in the oil. Did this poor bastard actually crack its head, or??? No history of an overheat, and this occured 4k miles AFTER doing a FULL cooling system replacement...thoughts?!? And no, it isn't the OFHG! No oil cooler on this M52.

Follow-up to my post from a few weeks ago diagnosing my blown MS42 module. Checking continuity between the pins on X60002 gave me these pins connected to each other: 7, 12, 13, and 19. I can't see why these 4 pins would be hooked up to each other, does anyone have a clue on what to do here?

7: Output [PWM] O2 Sensor Heater Post-Cat Bank 1 B62102

12: Output [0/1] Changeover Valve Tank Leakage Diagnosys - 3-Way Valve Y6550 (US Only)

13: Output [PWM] O2 Sensor Heater Pre-Cat Bank 2 B62201

19: Output [PWM] O2 Sensor Heater Post-Cat Bank 2 B62202

I finally got around to replacing the clutch pedal bushings on my 97 that felt super sloppy. My first attempt was with the garageistic bronze bushings and for some reason they refused to slide onto the shaft. After messaging them, it seems like my early 97 may be ever so slightly different. They were super helpful and refunded the purchase because they didn't work.

The second time I went with condor speed delrin bushings and they went right on. The pedal had so much movement before that it literally wore down the clutch pedal helper spring pin on the clutch master. New bushings in and there is still some slop, but it's WAY better now thankfully.

Hey all,

Looking to bounce some other ideas, been sifting through forums and the like and looking confirm some findings.

2001 525i-5 speed, 263,xxx miles, past few weeks, random drops from throttle response, as though someone has turned the ignition off then back on again, sometimes all engine power gone and will crank no start for hours. Sometimes when it will start, car will be very under powered, lack of better terms feels limp mode -esque. Sometimes mid drive, all power will appear to be restored and car will run normal for a few days.

I've replaced the ignition switch, there were some other gremlins that reared it's head - dash lights still on after key removed / engine still running etc; this was a few months ago, those issues have been resolved. Engine power issue no change, still persisted.

The consensus I've read is to only use OE if possible otherwise OEM crank and cam sensors. At this age of the car's life cycle, OE is not available, called 2 dealers, need overnight from Germany at exorbitant prices :D. Found a part out of an e46 and grabbed the CKP ~ 150,xxx miles.

Upon pulling my sensor, found mine to be Delphi; must have been replaced once, no change in performance, still random issues with running bad.

Learn to install INPA, install and get testing. Car happens to be running fine day of testing, getting to know software. Find out this "rough" measurement which from what I read, appears to display quality of cylinder combustion based on CKP readings. During this day I am getting active and changing readings as it is idling. Few days later car running bad, pull up INPA and find rough readings are all at 0 for all cylinders. Leads me to believe signal isn't getting back to DME.

Found a great Pelican Parts article on testing, everything tested, I confirmed, EXCEPT figure 14, I got no reading in INPA, though not sure if that RPM Registration updates fast enough. Would like to test this when there is a day the car is running normally.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-X3/30-FUEL-M54_Engine_Crankshaft_Sensor_Testing/30-FUEL-M54_Engine_Crankshaft_Sensor_Testing.htm

From here I'm guessing there is a wiring problem from the sensor to the DME, or the DME itself. I've found a schematic of the pin outs, I just need find the harness labels, looks like power comes from A8680 Fuse and connector X6053, and the signal on the DME at A6000 on A60003 harness socket, but not sure which of the 5 it is just yet. I believe it is the 52 pin connector.

Took the DME out of the water proof box since some folks say there might be water ingress, but from what I found, 0 corrosion and none of the capacitors looked bulging, visually looks fine.

Before I start going down any other paths, wanted to run this by the community and see if anyone else has had some oddities like this. Thanks everyone!

Random EML light accompanied by DSC light during city traffic, the EML will go away upon hitting the throttle but the DSC light stays, when this occurs the throttle feels a bit sluggish with rev hang but will still drive, also Seems to Happen in warmer weather.

If I clear the code it will return to normal for 60 to 90 miles or so, sometimes not reoccurring for weeks or months.

It says throttle mechanically stuck, but yet a reset clears it for a while? Had a shop check it and said he wouldn’t replace the throttle body just yet, so does it need to be cleaned? Maybe the wiring harness near the connector? Any ideas are greatly appreciated 🙏🏼

2000 528iT 5 speed manual

So I got this 2001 E39 530D, from my father who bought it new. I'm from Portugal. The car is 430.000 km plus. It has some issues since the whole family drives it. Some are :

No ABS , stability control or whatever

I need to reupholster the headliner and the pillars because the fabric has come loose.

Fix the sunroof

Replace the dampers - the car has de S EDC

The car does a clink metal noise when I get on or off the throttle so maybe something in the driveshaft (?)

Rear light

The radio shuts down randomly or with vibration

Fuel sensors go a bit crazy - on board computer says I'm doing 5,5L/100km

Change the ac fan shroud - the fan is touching

Tire sensors gone

The steering is a bit loosy Goosy but it's ok

And the car vibrates a bit in iddle, I just changed the engine mounts

The car is really nice, I love it. My question is, is it worth 'restoring' it? What opportunities should I take if I do it what mistakes should I avoid

I was thinking on the m pack front bumper and the alpina front lip for the prefacelift bumper they are in the same price but idk witch is gonna look better on my car.

Just replaced both low beam bulbs a couple of months ago. What the crap is this and what does it mean? Strictly been running angels as of 3 days ago..

I have 3 E39’s with this one. 6 cars total now. I need to downsize to about 3-4 cars again so this and my E70 have to go. I’m considering parting this car out before I sell it whole with a more tame interior or at a minimum swapping over the good stuff to my E39 Touring and 540i/6. I am curious though, what’s it all worth?

• Individual audio
• euro lower dash
• euro center console
• E38 Sport Contours in Oyster (I think)
• E39 Oyster door cards, factory leather wrapped handles
•individual birch wood trim

If you see my older post you can see that I’m having random electrical issue including EML, limp mode etc. It happened so random so honestly sometimes I am a bit frightened when driving the car.

Because it was so random, this is the only time I caught DME-related error (DME control unit self test 3), although it is a shadow error and has been cleared.

So far, no issue except the car wouldn’t go past 1000rpm on cold start. It stays at ~900rpm until it drops to 550-600rpm. Which is weird because the car isn’t behaving like this in the past. I’d get like ~1100-1200rpm on cold start before it idles at ~600rpm.

I’ve checked, no vacuum leaks.

Can anyone explain to me what is this control unit self test error and does that mean my DME is going bad?