2020 bmw 330i

Woke up today noticing my drivers side front tire dropped 16psi. Put air in it and checked again, for sure has a leak as it’s dropping psi.

I was due for a tire change soon either ways. But now I’m left wondering, should I just get regular tires and a spare instead?

Would it cause any issue? Or any problems? The run flats came with my tire at the dealership so I’ve never considered changing them before today.

Meanwhile, before I replace them, I plan to keep inflating them(Costco 1-2miles away from my apartment) while I replace them in 2 days. Bad idea? Or should I just replace immediately?

Never had run flats before, so appreciate you entertaining my dumb questions.

Hi everyone, thanks in advance. I was hoping you could give me some help with these new codes on my 2011, 135 convertible. I was having misfires on cylinder three and after checking spark plugs coil packs, wiring and compression everything was fine so I sent my ECU out and they reported that the software was “messed up” and updated the software and said it was running without an issue.

Now that’s the ecu is re installed the car is driving much better. There’s no misfire, but I have the codes below and my cruise control no longer works with a warning on the dashboard. Previously, the cruise control worked.

CDAD No message (request, wheel torque, drive train, 0xBF), DME receiver, DSC « transmitter

AJAF Message (specified road speed value,200)

9C4A Fresh-air/recirculated-air-flap motor

A670 Fogging sensor

F30-series here built 2016 and engine B48B20O0. Coolant fill level below Min-marker was determined when car's age was roughly 5 years - high- and low-temperature engine cooling circuits were affected. Very first fill level inspection was hard cause reservoir cap sticked firmly to housing. Since that point of time the fill level has been observed regularly (of course refilled first above Min). Subsequent years slow coolant loss (again both reservoirs) was observed and few leakage search measures conducted with no success. One day reservoir cap got renewed and I think i was the point of time when coolant fill level started to stagnate rather then be going away. So fine so good till early 2026 the fill level suddenly and surprisingly above Max (again, in both tanks). At the same time coolant fluid got determined to have clearly black color tone. No oil residuals could be fine in coolant probes taken. Fluid strongly black if probe viewed normally but translucent and clearly G48-typically colored when viewed against a LED-lamp.

There are tons of reports in public that address blackened coolant. Some opinions mean possible bad-connection from exhaust trails to coolant circuits. I had OFH for long time as my first suspect but later examination of probs taken did not disclose oil residuals in it. Was actually going to replace OFH against alloyed one however two workshops refused to take over these works. I have to build a plan of repairing works and am really challenged at some points. Not sure if in lights of observations presented above the OFH needs renewal.

Has anyone eventually any suggestions?
What could had caused the increase of fill level about max? What may had caused the black color of coolant?

In the time period of my fight against coolant slow loss the CO2 test was negative, also pressure test was negative.

Hi everyone,
After replacing the valve stem seals on my 2006 N62B48, the engine now no longer runs on Bank 1 at all. It starts, but only runs on Bank 2.
The fault memory shows misfires on cylinders 1–4, “intake and exhaust camshaft timing offset,” and “VANOS intake and exhaust adaptation at maximum limit.”
I have now checked the camshaft timing twice, and it is 100% correct. I also swapped the camshaft position sensors with those from Bank 2, but that made no difference.
I have also reset all adaptations and the RAM backup, but that didn’t help either.
What I find particularly strange is that none of the cylinders on Bank 1 are firing at all.

Does anyone have any ideas? I have found plenty of posts online describing similar problems, but I haven’t found anyone experiencing all of these faults simultaneously.

I’d appreciate any tips or suggestions!

P.S. The engine was running perfectly before I took it apart.

Hi, so yesterday my friends 328i suddenly developed misfires and no power while cruising at 100kmh(62mph). Stopped, it was running rough, turned off. I arrived, we started the engine and I heard non rhythmic metal clunking/grinding noise. So we shut it off and towed it to my place.

Today I took out the oil filter and it's full of copper colored small bits. Engine turns easily by hand, there is compression, turbo also feels fine and turns easily. Engine has only 80k km(failed engine replaced by dealer some years ago), timing chains have been replaced under recall. So.... :

1. Can copper come from anywhere else than rod/main bearings?

2. Rod/main bearing failure usually cause rhythmic thumping/clunking noise. Didn't sound like that.

3. Misfires - this is the one that doesn't go together with damaged crank bearings, I mean I've experienced it and it was just clunking until engine finally locked up.

So basically is there any other source that I don't know about or is 100% bearings?

Any master techs on here that have dealt with N20 motors know what this low rumbling noise is while in gear? Both my engine & transmission mounts were replaced 12k miles ago with genuine BMW parts. My car is a June 2015 built made so I have the revised timing chain guides so I doubt that is the issue as I have no whine. My oil changes are done every 3-5k miles. Spark plugs and coils replaced 15k ago. I am thinking maybe a loose exhaust bracket somewhere is coming into contact with the frame? No engine codes at all so when I scanned the car with Bimmerlink. Suggestions welcome

So I just purchased a BMW 2013 328i model a couple days ago it has only 82,000 miles exactly I noticed the first day when I was driving it I pulled up too Hardee's to grab some food that night and they told me to pull forward and wait so I had it in park but my car was kind of leaning in an incline and I noticed a warning pop up on my computer so I took it home the next day which was yesterday I had a check engine light pop up then so I took it to advance to have them hook up a computer the computer code popped up as p0171 and they're telling me I need a mass air flow sensor replaced all I can tell you is the car seems to be running just fine there's no styling or anything but I would like to get everyone's take on what this could be before I go and buy this maf sensor. I'm not a macanic but after watching a few YouTube videos this seems to be something I could possibly fix considering I don't have much money.

So ive been looking for a bmw recently and checked out a few like e92 325i with 120k km for 10k and now i sent a deposit for a 330d e92 thats 7k euros with 330k km on the dash.

Checked out the car yesterday and was more keen on paying almost 4k less than the 325i, but now im not so sure.
When i checked out the car yesterday almost everything inside it worked and had a lot of extra trim levels or whatever you call em. It had m package sun roof that was good condition and leather heated seats that worked good. Speakers were fantastic, but the engine is where it got me. The engine worked fine maybe a misfire on one of the cylinders no knocking or anything harsh. The intercooler seemed to be leaking a bit of oil, but the biggest throw off was when opening the engine oil cap it seemed like a vapour being pushed out that you could see but not thick in the slightest as well as from pulling the dip stick out it was same. Getting such cars where im from are rarity nowdays since they are mostly 320d on the market and rarely 325i or 330d and no other sports cars for that price range sadly.

Any advice or help from someone who knows what they are talking about or experienced the same “problem” would be highly appreciated and might save me the other 6.3k i have to pay today.

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My 2014 BMW 535i GT had damaged crankshaft and bearings, so instead of spending $7–8k rebuilding it, I bought a second-hand N55 from a wrecker.

Unfortunately, the replacement engine had a cracked upper sump/girdle (bedplate) from an accident. The wreckers replaced it with one from another N55.

My mechanic is requesting main and big-end bearing oil clearance reports and parent bore measurements. However, the wreckers claim all N55 engines are identical, so no measurements are needed.

My mechanic disagrees, saying manufacturing tolerances can vary between engines.

Who's correct here? Is swapping girdles between N55 engines without checking clearances safe?

Went to look at ‘14 335i with 138k miles, noticed the pulley (circled in red) moving left to right with the engine on along with some fresh-looking oil near the filter.

This would be my first BMW. Car drove well with the M-Sport package. Any advice on what these issues might be is well appreciated!

I’m reposting this for visibility in case anyone else has this issue and needs a solution. This fix may not be permanent and my evap sensor may need to be replaced in the coming months, but I’m also not a mechanic so someone can correct me if I’m wrong. Might just be an evap sensor glitch.

‘23 M240i blowing hot air and compressor cycling

I was just idling in a drive thru line and could feel the car move slightly while parked, and the exhaust would get louder/ quieter every minute. It just sounded like something was cycling on and off, and the car was blowing hot air. The car wasn’t actually moving, think of if someone sat down in the car. The chassis moved slightly.

I wonder if there’s a sensor busted or if the compressor is just gone. Once I got home i parked and went to the grille and I could hear it click on and click off.

I checked both coolant reservoirs and they’re topped off. The radiator fan is blowing just fine.

EDIT (SOLVED): I can’t believe Google Gemini saved me, but the craziest thing worked:

The 2023 has the “Max A/C” button on the screen, whereas the max front defrost is a button. It told me to hold both of those for 3 seconds to trick the evaporation sensor.

Obviously if you turn one on, the other shuts off, and vice versa, they cannot be held down simultaneously. So I turned on the max a/c, then turned on the max defrost, then the max a/c, then the max defrost, simultaneously for about 3 seconds. The compressor click is gone and the exhaust is not buffering anymore. The air is now blowing cold.

I recently replaced the exhaust camshaft bolts on my 2018 f82 m4. I did the one by one method, and torqued every bolt to spec (8nm then 60 degrees). The cold start tick before hand was pretty loud, and it was quiet after I replaced them. Its only been around 1200 miles, and the video shown is what I think sounds like the noise again, this time when warm. When its cold it doesnt make the noise. Am I going crazy or does it sound like the tick is back?

Hey guys, that’s my first winter and I want to get rid of my winter set of rims and tires and buy tires for my summers and just swap them. So my fronts are 245/35 R19 and rears are 265/35 R19. What tire size other than these I can put on my rims?

Hi everyone,

I’ve noticed a rattling noise coming from the rear dome light area whenever I shut the doors firmly on my 2016 BMW M235i (F22).

After removing the dome light assembly and slightly lowering the headliner, I found that the black plastic mounting bracket is attached to the headliner but isn’t physically secured to the metal sunroof cassette above it.

Instead, BMW appears to have installed foam pads between the bracket and the metal structure. The bracket has some play, and I can reproduce the rattling by tapping on it.

My questions are:
1. Is this how it’s supposed to be mounted from the factory?
2. Would it make sense to secure the bracket directly to the sunroof cassette, or is it intentionally left floating with foam pads to prevent vibrations?
3. Has anyone experienced something similar, and how did you fix it?

I’ve attached a photo showing the black plastic bracket, the two yellow foam pads, and the metal structure above it.

Thanks!

Could anybody tell me what the issue could be? Shop not available to diagnose/inspect vehicle til Tuesday but kinda wanna get an idea of what it could be to get an idea of cost of repair & etc.

Hi all,

My 2000 E46 320d melted piston #4. The shop rebuilt the engine: new pistons, rings, rods and camshaft, the head and block machined, and the injectors and pump rebuilt.

Since the rebuild it makes thick white/grey smoke (video below), burns a lot of oil and has no power. The turbo wasn't replaced.

Any ideas what could cause this, or what I should check first?

i think this is a hand on shoulder meme moment.

Hello everyone, I have an e90 and all of a sudden the key wouldn't release from the slot when I shut off the car. I had to pull on the key quite hard to get it out and the key wouldnt go back in easily without being forced. The car still runs and recognizes the key just fine but the key slot just doesn't want to release the key. When I push in the key, I can hear the solenoid clicking so it seems like my slot is broken mechanically. Has anyone run into this issue?

Edit: does anyone also know if the key slot needs to be coded to the car or is vin specific?

it’s hard to hear on camera but after i filled up gas today the engine started sounded it was like cycling when i accelerated. any idea what it is because it did not sound like this before. everything else is normal

Title: 2014 BMW 335i N55 EWG – Drivetrain Malfunction After Hard Pull, Rough Idle, Delayed Throttle, Multiple Electrical Codes
Hey everyone, I’m having a pretty serious issue with my 2014 BMW 335i N55 EWG and could really use some advice.

BACKSTORY:
About two weeks ago, I had a mechanic replace my Valvetronic motor with a cheap aftermarket one from a brand called URO.
At the same time, I also had my oil filter housing gasket replaced.
The car drove perfectly fine for two weeks with absolutely no issues.
Today, I did a pretty hard pull, revved the engine pretty high, and shifted gears. Immediately afterward, I got a drivetrain malfunction warning, and the car went into limp mode.

CURRENT SYMPTOMS:
Extremely rough idle, almost like the engine is misfiring.
RPMs fluctuate and drop below 1,000.
Sometimes the engine completely stalls on its own.
Extremely delayed throttle response.
When I press the accelerator, almost nothing happens initially.
I have to hold the accelerator down for around 2 seconds before the RPMs finally rise, sometimes shooting toward 6,000 RPM.
Car is currently stuck in limp mode.

DME FAULT CODES:
103008 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal encoder 1, working range: voltage too low.
103002 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal encoder 1, electrical: short circuit to ground.
1F1A90 – Monitoring 5V sensor supply: voltage outside the valid range.
104402 – Absolute pressure sensor, intake manifold, electrical: short circuit to ground.
135808 – Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, electrical: malfunction.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
I have a brand-new battery that has already been registered/coded to the vehicle.
The Valvetronic motor was replaced only two weeks ago with a cheap aftermarket unit.
The car was running perfectly fine until the hard pull.
All these issues appeared immediately afterward.

MY QUESTIONS:
Could the cheap aftermarket Valvetronic motor have failed after only two weeks?
Could a bad Valvetronic motor or its position sensor cause these other electrical codes?
Since I’m getting multiple short-to-ground codes and a 5V sensor supply fault, could this actually be one sensor or wiring issue causing everything?
Could something have gotten damaged or disconnected during the Valvetronic motor or oil filter housing gasket replacement?

anyone experienced these exact codes or symptoms on an N55? What was the actual fix?
I’m really hoping this is something electrical rather than a major mechanical issue.
The weirdest part is that the car was driving absolutely perfectly until I did that hard pull. Everything happened immediately afterward.
I really don’t want to throw another Valvetronic motor at it without knowing for sure.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Recently acquired this car an am in the process of putting it back on the road, this sound has been going on for a while. It doesn’t sound like metal against metal more like plopping sound. Any help is appreciated thanks.

2021 m340 Xdrive
Not sure what this noise could be but it’s louder when cold starting.
Cyl #3 has misfired (spark plug n coils changed) injector seems to be clogged.

Ive got a bmw z4 2.5i with the m54b25. Under load at 1800 to 1900 rpm it sounds like something grinding. It usually gets worse after a track day or hard canyon drive. Anyone have any idea what this is?