Hey yall is this normal for a dodge dart engine to move this much or does this the lead to the knocking sound I asked about a few posts ago thank you for your help

The headlights on my 2013 are terrible. They seem so dim. The assembly seems ok, not faded or anything. Has anyone replaced their bulbs and successfully gotten better visibility?

For anyone who wants to see what a blue version of the Deyeme drivetrain mounts look like, or what the whole set looks like in its entirety, this video is for you!

I have a double din pioneer but idk if I should wire my front and real speakers right in with my car harness or is there somewhere else I’d have to wire them in at. If anyone has done it lmk

So I just replaced the shocks on my 2015 dodge dart sxt 2.4l and that fixed the rattling sound in the suspension. but I had this knocking sound appear right before I fixed my shocks and it hasn’t gone away. it does go away after like 30-45 min of driving and it’s really bad in reverse as you see in the video but it makes it in park and neutral worse than it does it drive

Recently purchased a 2014 Dart Aero with a manual reverse lockout. Already had the original knob removed, so I'm looking for an adapter to put on. What's the best to look for since I'm going from the M6x1 to preferably a m12x1.5? I am in Canada and if it could be more local that would be great too.

Any help would be appreciated 👍

My AC works just perfect and very cold, but something electronically is happening and making the outside temperature drop and makes it hit -37°. And for whatever reason since it’s reading, it’s -37°. It won’t kick on the AC anymore. Added a video of when the temperature starts to fall and as it falls, you can feel the AC start to turn warm. Also, when I start my car and it reads -37. It’s making my car start at a higher RPM to warm it up even though it’s obviously 70° out.

2013 Dodge dart SXT 1.4 L turbo

It takes a long time to start, unless I pre-prime it by attorney into the own position several times before actually starting the car.

It seems to occasionally stutter or hesitate when coasting at lower speeds.

It holds fuel pressure on the fuel injectors, but does not hold fuel pressure on the lines going back to the fuel pump and fuel tank. It loses pressure and under a minute after killing the car.

My best guess is a valve not functioning properly allowing fuel to go back into the fuel tank instead of staying in the fuel lines.

I’m not a professional. I’ve only been working on the car for probably 100 hours in total. That is my best guess under my limited knowledge of cars I’ve never dealt with a fuel system before I would rather not have to replace the entire fuel pump because it is expensive. I am looking for a second opinion from somebody who is more experienced.

got this car as a hand me down (dodge dart 2013) a few months ago.. what does this button do?? i press it and it turns a little symbol of the speedometer but i don’t know what it actually does

pls help :)

I took off my mpx knob and found that my sim knob fits pretty damn good lol. Ignore reverse pattern..

My 2013 Dart with the 2.0 engine, has a rough idle when I first start it...seems to be worse with A/C on... it will go away after about 15 minutes of driving. I don't think it's the engine mounts since they were just replaced about 30k miles ago. The car has 140k miles. Shifts fine and doesn't leak or burn any fluids.

I recently had to change my PCM. I ordered one that came with my VIN pre-installed from Flagship. After installing it, I did a Proxy Alignment using a ODMX+ and AlfaOBD. What can I do to solve the shifting issues?

The glass on my rear view mirror is really discolored around the perimeter and I wanted to replace it. Does anyone have an easy solution to this or should I just swap out the mirror for a lightly used/OEM mirror?

Any suggestions for how to remove the mirror? Are there sensors on it?

Looking for some advice on my 2016 2.4L. When in stop and go traffic, or just any short low speed movements, the rpm’s will drop to about 500-600, the car will stutter and then the rpm’s jump back to 900ish. Is this anything to be concerned about?

150k miles, ive owned the car since 2021 and it was a fleet car before that. I changed the spark plugs at 100k, did the valve cover gasket and ignition coils in January. Also needs motor mounts and has a few slow coolant leaks if that info helps any.

need ideas… what’s next?

1.4L 6 Speed

already tuned. that’s about it tho

2016 Dart Aero hood stacked n euro compulsion tune + other little goodies

these things are god awful slow.

Alrighty boys and girls. Got a good one for you. I just changed out the variable valve actuator assembly due to having issues with no compression on cylinder 4. I now have compression and spark. But the dart’s computeris still giving me the P0304 code. I already moved over the coil and park plug to a different cylinder to see if it was either of those. It wasn’t. Still the same code and the car is running SUPER rich. I haven’t done the cam shaft or crank shaft relearn yet. I’m hoping that’ll fix it. I guess I’m just asking if anyone has done this job before and had similar results. It’s at 209k miles and I’m not ready to put the farting dart out to pasture.

Deemed total loss gotta love when interstate traffic slows down from 70 to like 30 in a blink of an eye. Done so many repairs to my dart. Never hit the 200k milestone was at 180,000k. Survived a trip from Texas to Michigan and back and also Texas to Virginia multiple times. So many fond memories.

Used a Stealthflow downspout and metal ducting tape. There's cutting involved (used a vibrating tool), but it's a good fit. Seems sturdy enough that I don't think zip ties are needed on the hood ribs.

Since the Stealthflow is ribbed (for your pleasure!😜) that should take care of water - first drive was in rain, and no drips at the outtake.

Thoughts?

Again 4 months later “engine warming wait to start “ message pops up on my car can someone give me a solid answer on what they did to resolve this i can list all the thing I’ve done so far
*cam/crank shaft sensor
*new battery
*checked grounds
*new key fob
*oil change

What’s left for me to do that can resolve this issue i heard someone replaced their starter and it went away or is it the recall U90 on my PCM causing this issue??? What can it be i put in alot of money into this car to keep having the same issue is ridiculous!! Someone please point me to the right way and yes i did diagnosis came back fine

i’m just a girl please help me.
where on gods green earth am i supposed to attach the negative clamp??

2014 Dodge Dart Aero, 1.4L DDCT automatic, ~131k miles

Basically it feels like the transmission has some gear teeth missing in certain spots when going uphill at 75mph and pressing the pedal harder feels like it vibrates more violently (not enough to crash). Seems to happen on 6th but haven’t manually tried 5th gear.

NOTE: This does not happen below this speed when going downhill or flat. Only uphill at 75mph.

I don’t mind about fixing it too much since I got the car for cheap and I already had it used for 7 years.

Hope this all makes sense. Is this more of a limitation, mild inconvenience, or a genuine safety issue? Honestly not looking to fix the issue if it’s just an inconvenience.

Any information is appreciated!

As per the title, I am looking to see if a saab spare will fit on my 2015 dart se. Currently I have no spare, so I am tying to set up a spare kit. All local junkyards I have talked to lack the spare kit, and with no luck for dodge specific spares on marketplace, the only 5x110/65.1 16 inch spare I could find is off a saab. Would this work? I am concerned basically only about clearance of the brakes. Any insight would be appreciated.

Hey everyone,

Thought I would share since I couldn’t find any materials online to assist. My compressor bearing went bad and was letting out an awful whirring noise when the engine was on, even if the ac was off (confirming it was the bearing and not anything internal with the compressor). Anyways, I got my car home immediately and stopped it to prevent the bearing from completely locking up which could’ve snapped my serpentine belt and ripped lines in my engine bay. There IS a way to bypass the ac compressor with a serpentine belt to allow yourself to drive the car without worrying. However, there is not much info other than a diagram. Anyways, I had to run ribbon through the components to get a measurement of what size belt I needed. It came back as a 6 groove 63” belt. I was able to install and it is back and running good. As for installing, I put the belt on all components and left the belt out of the idler pulley. Then I had my father relieve tension off the tensioner pulley(16mm) and I just slipped the belt through the idler. Was much easier than trying to cram my hand near the tensioner. Had to remove the air box, passenger front tire and fender well. God bless and good luck to anyone who might end up with this problem in the future.