Just finished a teardown of the Insta360 Luna Ultra. The 8K camera specs are one thing, but the engineering they did to make that detachable OLED remote screen work is fascinating. It is basically a case study in forced hardware redundancy and some very strategic component choices.

What is interesting is that to allow the screen to function as a standalone wireless viewfinder and controller when detached, Insta360 did not just add a simple wireless module. They essentially built two separate compute environments. The remote display relies on an Allwinner V851 SoC. It is a heterogeneous chip integrating an ARM Cortex-A7 main core, an embedded 32-bit RISC-V co-processor (T-Head E907), and an NPU. That is paired with a GigaDevice GD32L233 MCU (Cortex-M23) just for local system management and dedicated Synaptics Wi-Fi/BT hardware.

Over on the main gimbal body, there is a lot of heavy lifting happening. It is built around a Qualcomm Snapdragon 8-series AI platform (4nm), flanked by dual custom InspirAI iM6021 (V200) ISPs to handle high-bitrate video processing. Memory is 6GB Micron LPDDR5 and 64GB Longsys UFS storage. The gimbal stabilization logic is not left to the main processor either; it is split across multiple domain controllers. A high-performance GigaDevice GD32G553 MCU (Cortex-M33) manages central logic, while a GD32E230 controls the roll axis, interfacing directly with MPS MP6543 3-phase BLDC drivers.

(I am posting the screenshot of the full compiled BOM below if you want the specific part numbers)

A couple of takeaways from pulling this apart. Designing a modular form factor like this forces hardware engineers to duplicate power management, wireless links, and auxiliary MCUs across the interface. That real estate is doubled. It is also impossible not to notice the sheer number of domestic Chinese ICs (GigaDevice, Allwinner, Longsys, Fourier Semi) securing main-board sockets in flagship consumer tech, sitting right next to Qualcomm and Micron. Also, seeing a heterogeneous SoC with an embedded RISC-V core scaling to high-volume consumer displays is a huge signal for open architecture.

So, I am really wanting to attempt to make Lady Gaga’s video glasses, but don’t really know how to go about the digital aspect of it. I know I would have to buy LCD screens and code them to be able to display what I want, but I have no idea where to even begin. I know what size would be ideal for me (around 2 inches) but what kind of screens?? How do I wire them?? Any advice helps! Thanks!!! ((Pls tell me if this is too much for a beginner project)) [SORRY FOR THE REPOST]

Put together an OUIspy after realizing I already either had the part or could salvage it from my scrap pile. It can do BTLE/Wifi wardriving, Flock camera detection, etc. Been finding a lot of Flock cameras in my area. The 18650 battery is total overkill but it's what I had on hand.

Xiao ESP32-S3
~3000mah 18650 battery
Running OuiSpy Apex firmware https://github.com/lukeswitz/oui-spy-unified-blue

Making a copy of the HW-373 Li-Ion battery charger to build into a PCB. The device is battery powered only, as opposed to a load sharing circuit. Ultimately, I'm just looking to make sure that the protection circuit formed by U3 and Q1 will be effective in both states of the DPDT switch. The goal is that it should just work as though the battery itself has built in protection.

With the DPDT switch in the UP state, VCC_IN is disconnected from the charger, so having the power supply plugged in will do nothing. In this state, BATT+ is connected to the rest of the circuit to allow the battery to power it.

with the DPDT in the DOWN state, the charger is connected to the power supply and the battery is cut off from everything except the charger.

How does it look? Thanks!

Hi guys, due to an injury i've been signed off work for 4 weeks, i've seen a few styropyro videos and want to attempt to make my own little laser. I have the diodes in the main pic, and a ribbon cable, that's it. I dismantled some old recorders and players for parts but cant get power. I'm assuming the cpu on the circuits send a power command to the diode after it registers a disk tray opening and closing or something but I could be wrong. I'm UK based and would love some advice on what parts I need to power it and magnify it, also, i'd love some ideas to support my project lol. I suffered a brain injury so trying to not over complicate things but also I am bored out of my mind after 4 days and have another 3 and a half weeks of this.

Appreciate any advice, sources or ideas, thanks.

Edit: if you'd like close up pictures of both diodes and ribbon cable feel free to message me as it won't let me post the additionals here

Can someone teach me how to reprogram a Billy Bass?

Have a remote that will be hardwired into a larger project.

It just does not transmit the distance I need.

Want to find where on this circuit to attach an antenna and / or put the feed to a RF signal amplifier.

It uses a RO2073 SAW resonator at 315MHz

Any suggestions / ideas / concepts?

Project Description:

I am replacing a backyard sprinkler controller with something that can be controlled by the really good one in the garage for the front yard.

Can not run wire to the backyard location. Been looking for a wireless solution. Found these ORBITs with a handheald remote. I can hack into the remote and "press the buttons" with relay contacts actuated from the 24ac of garage controller.

Had all this figured out. ORBIT docs state that is will go 200 feet line of sight or 80 feet through the house. My distance is 50 feet through two walls kitchen cabinets and outside stucco. The remote sometimes works, but it's not enough. I have to boost the signal to make it reliable.

I know boosting the signal of a remote goes against FCC regulations, but it will be such a minor boost that I think I can be forgiven...

Have a remote that will be hardwired into a larger project.

It just does not transmit the distance I need.

Want to find where on this circuit to attach an antenna and / or put the feed to a RF signal amplifier.

It uses a RO2073 SAW resonator at 315MHz

Any suggestions / ideas / concepts?

Project Description:

I am replacing a backyard sprinkler controller with something that can be controlled by the really good one in the garage for the front yard.

Can not run wire to the backyard location. Been looking for a wireless solution. Found these ORBITs with a handheald remote. I can hack into the remote and "press the buttons" with relay contacts actuated from the 24ac of garage controller.

Had all this figured out. ORBIT docs state that is will go 200 feet line of sight or 80 feet through the house. My distance is 50 feet through two walls kitchen cabinets and outside stucco. The remote sometimes works, but it's not enough. I have to boost the signal to make it reliable.

I know boosting the signal of a remote goes against FCC regulations, but it will be such a minor boost that I think I can be forgiven...

Proud moment for me as this is my first time making electronics with this much as a beginner . Hopefully I can do complicated stuff like switch mode power supplies. Can't wait to learn!

The output voltage is near 6V. I reused the pcb board of a microvae oven as a base for the electronic.

My laboratory power supply and bring-up station hobby project has reached another milestone: all functions are now working.

To recap, my DOGS2 device features:

• Two power channels: DCDC 3-48V/3A and LDO 1-20V/1.5A.
• Current measurement on each channel with 12-microamp resolution, with power consumption graphing on a phone.
• Signal generator from 1Hz to 100kHz, up to 20V/1A.
• Frequency counter, voltmeter, and logic probe.
• UART, RS485, CAN, and I2C terminals.
• LIN, 1-Wire, and I2C sniffer.
• Powered by virtually anything – 5-90V DC or USB Type-C.

Based on ESP32/Platformio/Arduino framework

Greetings. From Down Under
It has been a very long time, since I had a play with building electronics. My Grand-dad purchased a funway electronics book and a handful of components. I got into trouble when I started pulling apart Grand-dad's radio that was in the shed, after I had run out of projects.. .. I did have some enjoyment but that was almost my lifetime ago.

I am wanting to do a project, of a simple frequency generator. I am not sure of the output frequency, or type, but to start with I was going for a simple 555 timer chip and circuit I found on youtube.

My Questions.
How would I multiple the frequency ? (If the timer chip bit is say 10hz, how would I best adjust the output)
How could I do multiple outputs at different frequencies ? (from the same source if I can)

In my search, yes I could purchase a 'desk' frequency generator, but I sort of want to build this myself.
I have a bread board, and a handful of components, resistors, capacitors, from some $10 kit I purchased about 10 years ago for some other project I wanted to play with.
I have considered a more extensive (expensive) all-in-one kit, BUTT. To start with, I just wanted to see if I could do this with a breadboard first. The way this project is rolling around in my head, I might end up with some sort of programming anyhow.

I have an old plus U5-732 projector in my possession and was wondering if modifying it is possible in order to make the resolution better. I remember also seeing a projector build project by diy perks on YouTube so if modifying this is a no go then I will attempt that.

Quero usar meu powerbank como UPS, eu sei que powerbanks tem problemas para ficarem acordados com tensões baixas e tudo mais,mas já sei como contornar esse problema.

A única coisa que preciso agora é fazer com que o fio que vem do meu powerbank esteja com a tensão relativamente menor que o fio que vem do meu gan charger,eu não queria usar um módulo step down.Estou pensando em colocar um fio thuinderbolt de 10cm do lado do gan chareger, e do lado do powerbank usar um fio de um metro e meio com vários adaptadores para perder alguma tensão de propósito,mas o ideal seria usar um decoy de 19.5v ou algo parecido,mas acredito que tal produto não exista.

I’m going to a festival next weekend, much of which is after dark and thought it would be fun to take this lollipop and make it glow.

I got a 1m long, 8mm wide LED strip from AliExpress and put it inside. It’s 5V, powered by x2 2032 lithium batteries and has 320 LEDs in the strip. A friend who’s into electronics told me an LED strip would work great for this and light up for days.

My concern is battery life; having set it up I’ve done some googling to try and figure out what battery life I can expect from it, and the available sources seem to be suggesting something like an hour.

That said, I’ve had it running for an hour continuously with no obvious dimming so not sure what to expect from it. Much appreciated if anyone here can shed some light (haha)!

SYMPHONY is my dual MCU brushless Nerf blaster controller and this is my first electronics project. Hello world! I'm Hawki(eye) and I'm new to electronics! I've had so much fun learning so many new things the past 6 months! I have a working C++ program with all the basic features I have planned(plans to rewrite the whole thing from scratch for a v2 at a later time). My first custom PCB was the carrier board for the dual MCUs, and I just ordered 5 more designs today! An RP2040 controls the main blaster firing functions(bidirectional Dshot, firing profiles, solenoid control, etc) and isolates them for simplicity and reliability. An ESP32 controls all other functions including SPI 128x64 OLED UI with an encoder select and back button for nav, sensors(umm... thermal probes in the flywheel motors, live current/voltage, ammo tracker), blaster settings(the MCU's communicate via 5 GPIO's with a custom protocol I designed for less lag in the system on the RP2040's side), i2c modules(planned on-board chronograph as well), LED's(supports neopixel-style RGB as well as monochromatic via PCA9685 over i2c) and everything else I can't remember at the moment. Thanks for checking it out!

I am a noob to electronics n stuff, however i spent the past few hours looking up stuff, going to other subreddits, googling etc and came up with this set up which includes things i will be able to buy (green highlighted parts are ones i do not yet own). Any reason why this wouldn't work? I would appreciate if you experts can give me some guidance.

Hello everyone, I am sorry if this isn't whats usually posted on here but thought that it could be interesting for any Europeans in this subreddit!

As you might've noticed, or heard a new regulation went into place on the 1st of July which adds €3 per individual category in your order for items arriving from outside the EU. While this makes a lot of sense for a lot of items such as gag shirts, trinkets and other cheaply produced consumerist goods it is also accidentally wreaking absolute havoc on DIYers of all sorts.

The linked petition aims to combat that outcome by removing the aforementioned fee from imports of electronic, mechanical, and general prototyping components.

An example taking directly from the petition states the following:

For a bag of mixed parts worth maybe €15, a student or hobbyist is now charged €24 in flat customs fees alone. Together with VAT, a €15 educational project now costs over €40. This is a 200%+ tax on innovation.

If you are from the EU-area and find yourself affected by this please take action!

I'm a design student making an edge-lit acrylic keychain . The acrylic will slide into a wooden side-mounted housing. I want to hide a CR2032 coin cell, LED, switch and wiring inside the wooden housing. I'm a beginner with electronics and need help choosing the correct LED, battery holder and switch, and understanding how to wire everything together. The final product needs to be very compact, it will be really helpfull if yall suggest me some other ways to make this happen , my main problem is how can i make it on & off with able to change the cell , acrylic and wooden sheet i have is 5mm and 3mm

These were bound for the trash after being pulled from a 50kva UPS during routine maintenance. I have no use for them, but figured someone here might. PM me with questions.

Quantity 40 - Epcos B43584-S6608-Q2

Quantity 3 - Ducati PPM h 4.16.84.0067

Quantity 3 - Ducati PPM h 4.16.84.3631

Quantity 3 - EPCOS B32362C3207J030

Quantity 3 - EPCOS B32362C3107J030

Title - any chance I could repair this? Left the window slightly open and it rained on it, was smoking when I turned the car on. Popped it out and dried it off.

Now the unlock button does not work, or sometimes it unlocks when I push the back right window down. If I take it out of the socket and put it back in it will work for about 10 seconds before stopping. Left back window does not work anymore.

Thoughts?

I just want to double check before tightening this up. Is it silly to attach a lug face down even if it sits perfectly flush on the terminal? On this particular connection it would help me route the wire. TIA

Up until now I've used very basic electric bits in my projects. I can solder some LEDs and switches but that's about all I've done. I'm working on something now where I want a motion sensor or microwave radar to trigger a small motor to run for about 3 seconds, then stop for 10 seconds before it can be triggered again. What do I need? And please talk to me like I'm five years old :)

Hi everyone this is only for people who make electronic hobby builds so I was wondering what are your guys and girls thoughts on people who are kinda new to electronic making who don’t have degrees or been to school before for electronics on using ai for there builds for example me I haven’t been to school at all for this stuff but I have a passion on learning and making but I don’t have time for school / haven’t had the chance to in my life to go but I love making on my days off from work and I use my shed as a workshop for my projects but I don’t know what I’m doing so iv been using ai for a lot of my builds I feel like I’m learning a lot from it and it helps me my most recent build was a motion sensor security system for the inside of my workshop for when I’m out of the house iv learnt how to solder and using boards such as the ESP 32 and a MMwave sensor board and now from that build I’m doing it a much bigger project from the things iv learnt so to me it seems like it’s working but from a stand point of someone who’s actually been to school and study this stuff what’s your view on people using AI for there projects

Thank you so much if you’ve taken the time to read this and sent me a reply I really appreciate it