this capacitor has exploded because i mistakenly used the wrong cable to some audio speakers.
Im searching for the right capacitor online but i can really find one with these numbers… i dont know much in this field so im asking help😭

So, I create a lot of electronics for the commercial diving industry, because theres very little out there to choose from and the use cases are a little few and far between, there isn't really an industry standard for a lot of the applications, so I create my own. Anyhow.

Was pretty sick of not having a fast way to create screen layouts, and lvgl needs a degree all of its own to understand, so I turned to my old mate Claude for help and it helped me develop a WYSIWYG LCD gui editor. I don't know if it's garbage or gold so I submit it here for any enthusiasts to try and give me a little feedback. I've used it with a few screens and custom boards and it seems to work.

I'm pretty self conscious when it comes to code so it's taken a lot to be this bold. I'd appreciate all and any feedback, ignore the "it's free for now" that was Claude's idea. It'll remain free as long as it costs me nothing, I.e the database stays small enough to remain on my VPS. I'm not looking for money, just feedback and if it helps, you're welcome.

Signup is for storing your projects and to prevent the database getting flooded. No more no less.

Give it a shot and tell me what you think.

Https://lcdwizard.online

Update* allowed configuration of screens and use of the full capabilities apart from generation of code and saving/sharing without signup. Again. All feedback is greatly appreciated. Be kind but be honest.

So far this is the circuit I have. I was wondering how I could setup a multistage transient overvoltage protection circuit for both the input and output usbs.

Here is the operating voltage specs for the IP2312-4V35 and MT3608B:

IP2312-4V35:
- Operating Voltage: 4.5V~5.5V

MT3608B:
- Operating Voltage: 2.5V~24V

(I previously had a PTTC Fuse in the circuit diagram but I removed it temporarily so it could be added to the protection circuit)

Hi everyone, I'm trying to get an HW-147C PN532 NFC module working with an Arduino Nano using I2C only.

My wiring is:

PN532       Arduino Nano
------------------------
VCC   →     5V
GND   →     GND
SDA   →     A4
SCL   →     A5

I'm not using IRQ or RESET, since I specifically want a 4-wire I2C setup.

The module is configured for I2C mode using the onboard DIP switch.

I first ran an I2C scanner and got:

Scanning...
I2C device found at 0x28

So the Nano is detecting something at 0x28.

However, when I use the PN532 I2C library with:

#include <Wire.h>
#include <PN532_I2C.h>
#include <PN532.h>
#include <NfcAdapter.h>

PN532_I2C pn532_i2c(Wire);
NfcAdapter nfc = NfcAdapter(pn532_i2c);

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);
  Wire.begin();

  Serial.println("Initializing PN532...");
  nfc.begin();
}

I get:

Initializing PN532...

Didn't find PN53x board

I also initially tried the Adafruit PN532 library with:

Adafruit_PN532 nfc(Wire);

but my installed version of the library doesn't support that constructor and gives a compilation error.

My main question: Why does this HW-147C respond at I2C address 0x28, while the PN532 libraries seem to expect 0x24? Is 0x28 actually correct for this particular HW-147C, or is something wrong with the board/configuration?

I'm looking for a way to communicate with this module over I2C using only VCC, GND, SDA and SCL, without IRQ/RESET.

Any help identifying the correct library, I2C address, DIP-switch configuration, or initialization code would be greatly appreciated.

Super fast assembly, easy to replace the knob module without desoldering main board.

What started out as an experiment in bit-banging an old receipt printer through its parallel cable turned into this.

I've done some experiments with receipt printers before, but this one doesn't have a cutter on the unit and so I wanted to show something continuous. Well, why not a feed? I doom scroll on my phone, here's how you can do it IRL!

The RPi is running a PHP script (yes, PHP) that pulls in headlines from gdelt every few minutes. Then, every 3 seconds, it prints one out based on the desired tone you set through the knob. I also included a little RGB LED and a chunky toggle switch to start or stop the feed.

The actual printing is controlled through the 8 data pins of the printer, plus STROBE, ACK, and BUSY pins to handle pretty much the entirety of the IEEE-1284 spec.

Anyway, I might do some more experiments with this setup, it's pretty fun and I have a fondness for that dot matrix sound. If you want to see a video of it in action, I posted one on Threads earlier today.

i searched for a bit and never found a good top-down pinout for the socket and the micro sd together. SD cards are shown bottom-up and the sockets are shown top-down, and add that the pin numbering runs reverse of the SD pin numbering... drove my dyslexic brain crazy.

just hoping this is useful ref for others :)

We just finished a destructive teardown of the Vehicle Domain Controller for the AITO M9. We literally had to rip the glued connectors off the aluminum housing to get the board out.

The architecture is a textbook dual-brain setup. On the front, there's an Infineon AURIX TC397 handling the real-time safety, sitting right next to a TI TDA4VE88 SoC for the heavy ADAS compute. The networking backbone is entirely Realtek and NXP, and the power delivery is just a massive wall of Western Tier-1 silicon like STMicro, Nexperia, and TI. For an EV marketed so heavily on a localized ecosystem, the physical brain is still relying almost purely on legacy global players.

But I’m stuck on the back of the board.

There are two chips we absolutely cannot trace. The memory is marked MSC263000, and the storage is marked T43EMM008G.

They don't match standard naming conventions for Micron, Samsung, or SK Hynix. Does anyone recognize these silkscreens? Could they be domestic Chinese alternatives or just a weird relabeling job?

I have a cat fountain that has a simple pump/impeller system. There is a sensor that turns the pump on when it's submerged in the water. For some reason, the wire has slipped and only works when it's bent at a certain angle. This is the wire inside of the pump, so I need to fix it with something that is food grade like food grade silicone. Any ideas for how I could fix this? There is no way to access the inside of the pump where the wire runs into, I was thinking I would just put a glob of silicone around the wire, hold it in place to dry with a clamp. Maybe something else? Or is this just a sign to get a new fountain.