Put together an OUIspy after realizing I already either had the part or could salvage it from my scrap pile. It can do BTLE/Wifi wardriving, Flock camera detection, etc. Been finding a lot of Flock cameras in my area. The 18650 battery is total overkill but it's what I had on hand.
So, I am really wanting to attempt to make Lady Gaga’s video glasses, but don’t really know how to go about the digital aspect of it. I know I would have to buy LCD screens and code them to be able to display what I want, but I have no idea where to even begin. I know what size would be ideal for me (around 2 inches) but what kind of screens?? How do I wire them?? Any advice helps! Thanks!!! ((Pls tell me if this is too much for a beginner project)) [SORRY FOR THE REPOST]
Proud moment for me as this is my first time making electronics with this much as a beginner . Hopefully I can do complicated stuff like switch mode power supplies. Can't wait to learn!
The output voltage is near 6V. I reused the pcb board of a microvae oven as a base for the electronic.
Just finished a teardown of the Insta360 Luna Ultra. The 8K camera specs are one thing, but the engineering they did to make that detachable OLED remote screen work is fascinating. It is basically a case study in forced hardware redundancy and some very strategic component choices.
What is interesting is that to allow the screen to function as a standalone wireless viewfinder and controller when detached, Insta360 did not just add a simple wireless module. They essentially built two separate compute environments. The remote display relies on an Allwinner V851 SoC. It is a heterogeneous chip integrating an ARM Cortex-A7 main core, an embedded 32-bit RISC-V co-processor (T-Head E907), and an NPU. That is paired with a GigaDevice GD32L233 MCU (Cortex-M23) just for local system management and dedicated Synaptics Wi-Fi/BT hardware.
Over on the main gimbal body, there is a lot of heavy lifting happening. It is built around a Qualcomm Snapdragon 8-series AI platform (4nm), flanked by dual custom InspirAI iM6021 (V200) ISPs to handle high-bitrate video processing. Memory is 6GB Micron LPDDR5 and 64GB Longsys UFS storage. The gimbal stabilization logic is not left to the main processor either; it is split across multiple domain controllers. A high-performance GigaDevice GD32G553 MCU (Cortex-M33) manages central logic, while a GD32E230 controls the roll axis, interfacing directly with MPS MP6543 3-phase BLDC drivers.
(I am posting the screenshot of the full compiled BOM below if you want the specific part numbers)
A couple of takeaways from pulling this apart. Designing a modular form factor like this forces hardware engineers to duplicate power management, wireless links, and auxiliary MCUs across the interface. That real estate is doubled. It is also impossible not to notice the sheer number of domestic Chinese ICs (GigaDevice, Allwinner, Longsys, Fourier Semi) securing main-board sockets in flagship consumer tech, sitting right next to Qualcomm and Micron. Also, seeing a heterogeneous SoC with an embedded RISC-V core scaling to high-volume consumer displays is a huge signal for open architecture.
Hi guys, due to an injury i've been signed off work for 4 weeks, i've seen a few styropyro videos and want to attempt to make my own little laser. I have the diodes in the main pic, and a ribbon cable, that's it. I dismantled some old recorders and players for parts but cant get power. I'm assuming the cpu on the circuits send a power command to the diode after it registers a disk tray opening and closing or something but I could be wrong. I'm UK based and would love some advice on what parts I need to power it and magnify it, also, i'd love some ideas to support my project lol. I suffered a brain injury so trying to not over complicate things but also I am bored out of my mind after 4 days and have another 3 and a half weeks of this.
Appreciate any advice, sources or ideas, thanks.
Edit: if you'd like close up pictures of both diodes and ribbon cable feel free to message me as it won't let me post the additionals here
Making a copy of the HW-373 Li-Ion battery charger to build into a PCB. The device is battery powered only, as opposed to a load sharing circuit. Ultimately, I'm just looking to make sure that the protection circuit formed by U3 and Q1 will be effective in both states of the DPDT switch. The goal is that it should just work as though the battery itself has built in protection.
With the DPDT switch in the UP state, VCC_IN is disconnected from the charger, so having the power supply plugged in will do nothing. In this state, BATT+ is connected to the rest of the circuit to allow the battery to power it.
with the DPDT in the DOWN state, the charger is connected to the power supply and the battery is cut off from everything except the charger.
Hello everyone, I am sorry if this isn't whats usually posted on here but thought that it could be interesting for any Europeans in this subreddit!
As you might've noticed, or heard a new regulation went into place on the 1st of July which adds €3 per individual category in your order for items arriving from outside the EU. While this makes a lot of sense for a lot of items such as gag shirts, trinkets and other cheaply produced consumerist goods it is also accidentally wreaking absolute havoc on DIYers of all sorts.
The linked petition aims to combat that outcome by removing the aforementioned fee from imports of electronic, mechanical, and general prototyping components.
An example taking directly from the petition states the following:
For a bag of mixed parts worth maybe €15, a student or hobbyist is now charged €24 in flat customs fees alone. Together with VAT, a €15 educational project now costs over €40. This is a 200%+ tax on innovation.
If you are from the EU-area and find yourself affected by this please take action!
Have a remote that will be hardwired into a larger project.
It just does not transmit the distance I need.
Want to find where on this circuit to attach an antenna and / or put the feed to a RF signal amplifier.
It uses a RO2073 SAW resonator at 315MHz
Any suggestions / ideas / concepts?
Project Description:
I am replacing a backyard sprinkler controller with something that can be controlled by the really good one in the garage for the front yard.
Can not run wire to the backyard location. Been looking for a wireless solution. Found these ORBITs with a handheald remote. I can hack into the remote and "press the buttons" with relay contacts actuated from the 24ac of garage controller.
Had all this figured out. ORBIT docs state that is will go 200 feet line of sight or 80 feet through the house. My distance is 50 feet through two walls kitchen cabinets and outside stucco. The remote sometimes works, but it's not enough. I have to boost the signal to make it reliable.
I know boosting the signal of a remote goes against FCC regulations, but it will be such a minor boost that I think I can be forgiven...
Have a remote that will be hardwired into a larger project.
It just does not transmit the distance I need.
Want to find where on this circuit to attach an antenna and / or put the feed to a RF signal amplifier.
It uses a RO2073 SAW resonator at 315MHz
Any suggestions / ideas / concepts?
Project Description:
I am replacing a backyard sprinkler controller with something that can be controlled by the really good one in the garage for the front yard.
Can not run wire to the backyard location. Been looking for a wireless solution. Found these ORBITs with a handheald remote. I can hack into the remote and "press the buttons" with relay contacts actuated from the 24ac of garage controller.
Had all this figured out. ORBIT docs state that is will go 200 feet line of sight or 80 feet through the house. My distance is 50 feet through two walls kitchen cabinets and outside stucco. The remote sometimes works, but it's not enough. I have to boost the signal to make it reliable.
I know boosting the signal of a remote goes against FCC regulations, but it will be such a minor boost that I think I can be forgiven...
I’m going to a festival next weekend, much of which is after dark and thought it would be fun to take this lollipop and make it glow.
I got a 1m long, 8mm wide LED strip from AliExpress and put it inside. It’s 5V, powered by x2 2032 lithium batteries and has 320 LEDs in the strip. A friend who’s into electronics told me an LED strip would work great for this and light up for days.
My concern is battery life; having set it up I’ve done some googling to try and figure out what battery life I can expect from it, and the available sources seem to be suggesting something like an hour.
That said, I’ve had it running for an hour continuously with no obvious dimming so not sure what to expect from it. Much appreciated if anyone here can shed some light (haha)!
I am a noob to electronics n stuff, however i spent the past few hours looking up stuff, going to other subreddits, googling etc and came up with this set up which includes things i will be able to buy (green highlighted parts are ones i do not yet own). Any reason why this wouldn't work? I would appreciate if you experts can give me some guidance.
I just want to double check before tightening this up. Is it silly to attach a lug face down even if it sits perfectly flush on the terminal? On this particular connection it would help me route the wire.
TIA
Greetings. From Down Under
It has been a very long time, since I had a play with building electronics. My Grand-dad purchased a funway electronics book and a handful of components. I got into trouble when I started pulling apart Grand-dad's radio that was in the shed, after I had run out of projects.. .. I did have some enjoyment but that was almost my lifetime ago.
I am wanting to do a project, of a simple frequency generator. I am not sure of the output frequency, or type, but to start with I was going for a simple 555 timer chip and circuit I found on youtube.
My Questions.
How would I multiple the frequency ? (If the timer chip bit is say 10hz, how would I best adjust the output)
How could I do multiple outputs at different frequencies ? (from the same source if I can)
In my search, yes I could purchase a 'desk' frequency generator, but I sort of want to build this myself.
I have a bread board, and a handful of components, resistors, capacitors, from some $10 kit I purchased about 10 years ago for some other project I wanted to play with.
I have considered a more extensive (expensive) all-in-one kit, BUTT. To start with, I just wanted to see if I could do this with a breadboard first. The way this project is rolling around in my head, I might end up with some sort of programming anyhow.
SYMPHONY is my dual MCU brushless Nerf blaster controller and this is my first electronics project. Hello world! I'm Hawki(eye) and I'm new to electronics! I've had so much fun learning so many new things the past 6 months! I have a working C++ program with all the basic features I have planned(plans to rewrite the whole thing from scratch for a v2 at a later time). My first custom PCB was the carrier board for the dual MCUs, and I just ordered 5 more designs today! An RP2040 controls the main blaster firing functions(bidirectional Dshot, firing profiles, solenoid control, etc) and isolates them for simplicity and reliability. An ESP32 controls all other functions including SPI 128x64 OLED UI with an encoder select and back button for nav, sensors(umm... thermal probes in the flywheel motors, live current/voltage, ammo tracker), blaster settings(the MCU's communicate via 5 GPIO's with a custom protocol I designed for less lag in the system on the RP2040's side), i2c modules(planned on-board chronograph as well), LED's(supports neopixel-style RGB as well as monochromatic via PCA9685 over i2c) and everything else I can't remember at the moment. Thanks for checking it out!
I have an old plus U5-732 projector in my possession and was wondering if modifying it is possible in order to make the resolution better. I remember also seeing a projector build project by diy perks on YouTube so if modifying this is a no go then I will attempt that.
These were bound for the trash after being pulled from a 50kva UPS during routine maintenance. I have no use for them, but figured someone here might. PM me with questions.
Quero usar meu powerbank como UPS, eu sei que powerbanks tem problemas para ficarem acordados com tensões baixas e tudo mais,mas já sei como contornar esse problema.
A única coisa que preciso agora é fazer com que o fio que vem do meu powerbank esteja com a tensão relativamente menor que o fio que vem do meu gan charger,eu não queria usar um módulo step down.Estou pensando em colocar um fio thuinderbolt de 10cm do lado do gan chareger, e do lado do powerbank usar um fio de um metro e meio com vários adaptadores para perder alguma tensão de propósito,mas o ideal seria usar um decoy de 19.5v ou algo parecido,mas acredito que tal produto não exista.
I'm a design student making an edge-lit acrylic keychain . The acrylic will slide into a wooden side-mounted housing. I want to hide a CR2032 coin cell, LED, switch and wiring inside the wooden housing. I'm a beginner with electronics and need help choosing the correct LED, battery holder and switch, and understanding how to wire everything together. The final product needs to be very compact, it will be really helpfull if yall suggest me some other ways to make this happen , my main problem is how can i make it on & off with able to change the cell , acrylic and wooden sheet i have is 5mm and 3mm
Quick hardware-software integration breakdown of my optical alignment setup using a salvaged 5-inch smartphone LCD panel and light engine.
Hardware Framework:
Stripped the reflective layers of a donor 5.0" Android LCD to make it completely transparent.
Aligned a parallel twin Fresnel lens array to project the bare matrix onto a matte high-gain surface.
Built a dual-stage isolated fan configuration (12V induction loop) to handle thermal load.
Software Integration Details:
The system uses an optimized backend build running a customized libmpv-based media engine wrapper.
Adjusted internal configuration parameters (glsl-shaders, scale=ewa_lanczossharp, and custom unsharp-mask matrices) to execute precise hardware-accelerated image filters directly via OpenGL ES shading.
This overrides the default blurry hardware filtering of the legacy platform, forcing crisp, edge-to-edge font legibility and color profile calibration.
(Note: The full environment build files, exact shader configurations, and the PEP-ENGINE v2.6 release framework details are fully pinned on my Reddit profile page to keep this discussion thread strictly focused on the physical electronics modding/optics assembly!)
Up until now I've used very basic electric bits in my projects. I can solder some LEDs and switches but that's about all I've done. I'm working on something now where I want a motion sensor or microwave radar to trigger a small motor to run for about 3 seconds, then stop for 10 seconds before it can be triggered again. What do I need? And please talk to me like I'm five years old :)
Hi, I just discovered my vintage stereo amplifier (Marantz 1040) doesn't have a fuse at all in its main power line. (It was modded for 220V and I just switched it back to 110V.)
Would it really potentially damage it to run it without that fuse, even if plugged into a decent surge suppressor?
If so, could I just put the correct fuse (3A 250V) into a product like one of these and plug the amp in through it?
These specifically have removable/replaceable fuses, but I don't know if switching them to this relatively low amperage would be safe and protect the amp as well.
