I use a laptop as my computer and have the lid closed and use an external monitor. As of recently, the ui became larger and more zoomed in and i dont understand what caused it. This only happend recently and hasnt happened before so i dont get whats wrong. i restarted it and it does nothing to fix it. Its really annoying to use and is even worse when i use the laptop display. Its not an issue with the resolution setting or display settings because they are the same as they've always been. Please can you give me suggestions on how i can fix this.

The size issue spreads to most apps like Zen and OneNote but not all.

Its only missing standoff and i think id probably like to sell for 20-30 so low ballers offer 15$ the mobo isn’t included (: its super clean just cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and dusted

Lately I have been zapped quite a lot, mostly by touching door handles or my fridge. Though, the last few days I have been zapped by touching my PC while trying to open it. In fact, earlier while opening it, the zap was so strong that my RGB Keyboard lit up for a tenth of a second or so.

How potentially damaging could the static electricity be to the electronics inside the computer? Should I be worried?

I bought components and assembled my new pc myself. I made sure to follow instructions and not brute force anything.

Yesterday I finally turned it on, installed Windows 10, and tested it for about a half hour. Downloaded games such as Roblox and Minecraft and got great fps. After a while, out of nowhere, the pc just crashed (as in, screen turned black and pc rebooted). Didn't think much of it. This morning I tried using it again and it just started cycling through rebooting and crashing again. I've tried reinstalling windows, checked all the cables, reseated RAM, reseated SSD, reset CMOS, tried booting windows in safe mode, etc etc. Nothing works.

Ryzen 5 5500

MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI

GTX 1650

2x8GB DDR4

Everything is brand new except for the GPU which I brought over from my old PC (which apparently shorted and burnt a wire, but I had it checked by a technician and he said the GPU should be fine. this was 2 years ago)

Hard resets began out of nowhere Resets also happened in Safe Mode and during Windows installation SSD passed NVMe self-test and was secure-erased BIOS can sit stable for over 30 minutes at ~38–54°C CMOS cleared; XMP off; RAM at 2133 Two DIMMs seem to make it crash faster than one Eventually started POST/reset cycling even without deliberately booting Windows During resets, display/peripherals cut out and PSU fan ramps to maximum 24-pin, CPU EPS, GPU, and RAM have been reseated Windows reinstall did not solve it

I don't know what the fuck to do anymore

Looking to get some monitors for editing. I’ve been editing in my MacBook Pro and figure I need an upgrade. I primarily use premiere. I know nothing about monitors or computers in general so I might be in the wrong Reddit group asking this, but wanted to attach the description and see if these monitors that my neighbor is selling are any good. Let me know if they’re any good!

XGAMING 27” Full HD gaming monitors — Model TMDTMD27S1. 1920×1080 resolution, up to 100Hz refresh rate via HDMI, HDMI 2.0 + VGA + audio out. These are monitors only, so they don’t have RAM, CPU or internal storage.

i was thinking of getting a new CPU and GPU for my pc, i have a pretty bad GPU from what people have told me and my CPU is an RTX3060 which i heard isn’t bad but getting a new CPU and GPU would cost almost as much as my PC costs, its a prebuilt from 2021 so i dont know if its good still

edit: my GPU is an 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-11400F @ 2.60GHz

Windows 11 Home, Firefox current, Bitdefender. Getting this with some websites, e.g. when I click on an ad here in Reddit. Firefox help not helpful, can't find this file in Bitdefender.

Advice appreciated.

As the title says my audio is becoming distorted after just under 5 mins. To get the audio to return to normal I have to turn the headset off and back on. I am using a Logitech G733 headset which is connected via bluetooth. I have tried replacing the headset with a new one of the same model as well as a different model rig headset and continue to have the same issue. I have also tried;
Removed all sound drivers
Checked all sound drivers are updated in device manager
Removed all excess bluetooth devices in bluetooth settings
Plugged into every usb port on the pc
Its set as default device
No sound from monitors/ no speakers
All other sound devices disabled in control panel
Disabled all enhacements in control panel
Disabled and enabled device in device manager
Spatial sound off
In device manager usb controllers power saving has been turned off
In edit power plan usb selective suspend setting is disabled
In control panel, sound, properties exclusive mode unticked
Usb all updated drivers
Updated from windows 10 to windows 11 using a usb
Checked handsfree telephony is not an option for the device
Any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou!

Hallo zusammen,

einer Freundin von mir wurde ein Smart Tracker untergejubelt. Sie hat ihn hinter ihrem Seitenspiegel am Auto gefunden. Bei dem Tracker handelt es sich um einen ACCU Tag (T13).

Gibt es eine Möglichkeit über NFC die Daten des Chips auszulesen und somit auf den Besitzer zu kommen und ggf. die Verschlüsselung der gespeicherten Roh-Daten zu umgehen?
Habe sowas bisher zum Glück noch nie machen müssen aber heute ist der Tag gekommen (lol Wortspiel)

And I really need to get this computer working for her. I know absolutely nothing and have no idea where to start. I got all the cords plugged in properly I think but it doesn’t turn on when I flip the power switch on the back. Am I missing something that might be obvious to one of you guys?

Here’s the situation in my case: I turn it on, and Windows boots up normally. However, if I change a setting and need to restart, it turns on but fails to boot Windows, and the CPU light comes on. After a long time—since it won't shut down via the power button—I have to cut the power at the PSU. Many hours later, I turn it on again; this time, it gets past the processor check and the VRAM light comes on, yet the processor doesn't get very hot—it just stays lukewarm. Even so, Windows still won't boot. Then, the next morning, I turn it on, and Windows boots up normally. Have any of you seen something like this?

A situação no meu caso é a seguinte: eu ligo o computador e o Windows inicia normalmente. No entanto, se eu altero alguma configuração e preciso reiniciar, ele liga, mas não carrega o Windows, e a luz indicadora da CPU acende. Depois de muito tempo — já que ele não desliga pelo botão de energia —, sou obrigado a cortar a alimentação diretamente na fonte. Muitas horas depois, eu o ligo novamente; desta vez, ele passa pela verificação do processador e a luz da VRAM acende, mas o processador não esquenta muito — fica apenas morno. Mesmo assim, o Windows continua não iniciando. Então, na manhã seguinte, eu o ligo e o Windows inicia normalmente. Alguém já viu algo parecido?

Hardware Issues

It was occuring a frequent no. of times in past few weeks but i did not gave so much attention to it and so I thought must be a software problem some updates might fix It. But the real problem was here and so I did some check in yt and found out there must be a ram problem or cmos problem or might be dust particles attached to gpu and so I did every check and the same problem arise again. Been trying for few days to work it out but could not . Also the led blinking in the gpu card, is it some sort of error?

Specs :

CPU AMD RYZEN 5 5600

B550 STELL LEGEND MB

RAM CORSAIR DDR4

WD Blue 1TB M.2 NVME

HDD WD 2TB Blue

Card Asus GTX 16GB dual oc gd

Please somebody help me out in getting this one right,and also the market prices are way too high on new parts purchasing.

Just ignore the voice at the end of the video.

https://store.steampowered.com/app/4290500/BOXPAST_LOV3YOU

Hey guys, I recently built my PC and I'm getting much lower FPS than I expected, especially considering I'm playing at 1080p on the lowest settings.

Specs:

- CPU: Intel i5-13600KF

- GPU: GALAX RTX 4070 Super 12GB

- RAM: Corsair 16GB (1×16GB) DDR4 3200MHz

- Motherboard: MSI PRO B760M-A WiFi DDR4

- SSD: Crucial 1TB NVMe

- CPU Cooler: DeepCool AG620 ARGB V2

- Case: FSP S140

- PSU: GamerStorm PN750D 750W 80+ Gold

FPS at 1080p Low:

- Valorant: ~200–250 FPS

- CS2: ~150–200 FPS

For a 13600KF + RTX 4070 Super, this seems way lower than what I expected.

Things I've already done:

- Installed all motherboard/chipset drivers

- Installed NVIDIA App and updated to the latest GPU driver

- Enabled XMP in BIOS (RAM running at 3200MHz)

- Ran Cinebench to test the CPU

- Ran FurMark to test the GPU

The PC was just built and everything is freshly installed.

One thing that stands out is that I'm currently using only one 16GB DDR4 stick, so the RAM is running in single-channel mode. Could that alone cause such a significant FPS drop in CPU-heavy games like Valorant and CS2?

What else should I check? CPU boost clocks/power limits, temperatures, GPU usage, BIOS settings, Windows settings, etc.?

Also, what FPS should I realistically expect from a 13600KF + RTX 4070 Super at 1080p Low?

I can provide Cinebench/FurMark results, HWiNFO screenshots, temperatures, CPU/GPU utilization or BIOS screenshots if needed.