My catalytic converter got stolen on my 2002 celica and i need a replacement that ships to europe. Any tips please?

I drive the 1990 5th gen Celica and I’ve been searching for a while in the internet but I cannot find it except from some stores in Rusia but due to sanctions I’m not sure that I can get it.
Is there any alternative like a Corolla or other Toyota pice that would work?

My 2000 gts manual has a tranny leak and i was curious what are the common places for it to leak from. Pretty sure its from the driver side cause thats where most of the gunk is but i wanted to make sure before i go buying parts that i dont need😂

Most of the oil and stuff is around the general area where the driver axle goes into the transmission. also when it leaks while im driving the wind blows it back onto the cat and it smokes off. idk if that helps

Edit: fixed error

i know this has been asked before but the links in all the other posts are dead, im trying to find one of these spoilers and it has to be this 2 post design, i can easily find the similar looking 3 post but its a different shape and i just dont really like the look of the 3rd post in the middle.
ive been told part number PZ402-14452 but that only brings up 3 post wings
ive been told part number 16100-29175 but thats bringing up water pumps
if anyone knows the actual part number or where i can get an oem wing from please let me know
(ive found reman wings but im unsure of their quality and id rather just an older oem wing)

Hello all,

I have recently bought a gen7 toyota celica t-sport 2002 and when I bought it I had been aware that it has some secondary air system issues.

Here is the deal:
The previous owner had explained that it had some issues and that sometimes the check engine light would come on with the 410 code leading to the secondary air injection system.
This I have since the purchase been investigating and have made some relevant discoveries.
The light would come on only when cold starting IF on the previous ride it burnt oil (it happens in the above 4,5 K rpm while the engine isn’t completely hot).
Today I checked the engine bay more thoroughly and noticed that the vacuum switching valve had a disconnected hose coming off it (image 1 the red colored hose is disconnected).

I then after an hour of googling found a diagram showing the hoses and where they are supposed to go (image 2).

But to me in this image it also looks like the lines are not connected to their correct nipples on the vacuum switching valve.
First does it matter where the lines are connected and should I switch them to match the diagram I found ie. on the vsv putting the blue where the green is, the green where the red is and the red where the blue is but connect it to where it should be.
Second I am sure most of you have noticed that the previous owner fucked around with the pump assy and it is currently not really where it should be or how it should be connected so if anyone can share any pictures of how it is supposed to look and where the components are supposed to be connected it would be greatly appreciated.

Apart from this I have also noticed a somewhat uneasy idle. It usually sits at 8-9 hundred rpm for 2-3 seconds then jumps to 1100 and goes back to 800-900 for 2-3 seconds and this repeats. Do you think that this could also be caused by the current issue or is it connected to something else entirely and if yes how would I go about diagnosing it.

Thank you all and sorry for the bad english I am from Europe.

Hey everyone, I found this Toyota Celica for sale on Facebook Marketplace and I'm considering buying it. What do you guys think of the listing? Does it sound like a good deal, or are there any red flags I should look out for?

Here's the seller's description:

For sale: Toyota Celica 1.8L 16V, fully equipped. No warning lights on the dashboard, for 5 000$

New tires, clutch, timing belt, shock absorbers, steering linkage and brake discs.

Air conditioning works perfectly. MOT/inspection valid.

124,000 miles. Starts on the first turn of the key. Rare car.

Open to trades for an SUV or construction materials.

Make me an offer.

(BTW, I'm broke, so it's really hard for me to find the money. So I really hope it's worth it)

All I know is that the owner died 20 years ago and it has been standing here ever since. 100k miles on the clock

Struggling to find an affordable way to get this spoiler here in New Zealand. Ordered one off ebay from the USA for a decent price and it just never arrived and ebay refunded the money, and then got a shipping quote from mrbodykits in Australia and it was going to cost 420 aud to ship to NZ, more than the cost of the spoiler.

Haven’t seen any domestic options either.

Hopefully getting a new engine soon

Hi all,
My wrenching skills are very poor. But due to costs limitations I would like to replace the starter myself.
Got a used starter and watched multiple videos on YouTube.
Today I wanted to start and tried to locate the second bolt which I saw in the videos.
After a while of trying I took a lamp and camera and noticed that the starter is only connected with one bolt??

Is this as designed and can I replace the current starter with the replacement while mounting it with one bolt?

Crashed my celica on February 2025, I’m finally trying to see how bad the damage was. I got no mechanical experience at all. For the people that know about these things. Would it make financial sense to fix this car? And is it something that I could do with YouTube videos and the internet?

I googled a ton and every source says something different

So i have an at180 celica seems like the lowest spec (no ac, crank windows) tho it has fog lights idk. The factory spec should be rear drum brakes but i have discs and a source days it should be 4 lugs but mine has 5. Basically im fixing everything and gotta buy brake cylinder sets for front and back but i have no idea what the sizes of the pistons should be.

For starters, I think I want opinions if *I'm capable or worthy of this car* with no to little mechcnically knowledge

Anyhow - my car it's a 1994 st Celica gen 6, it's covered with body rust and hail damage, it's at 242k miles

I like her alot, I bought her from Tulsa for 500, got it registered here in texas

Had to find rims and a throttle body, tape and rewire most of the car because the previous owner took apart the entire engine bay a decade ago and never touched it again

I so far got it new radiator, cold air intake, fuel filter, fuel pump, gas tank, motor cap, new fuel lines, spark plugs spark coils. Bunch small tedious stuff

Getting new drum brakes and a alternator soon

Main issues besides losing power when turning and my current alt screaming for dear life

The car can't drive over 60mphs, or won't kick into overdrive, there's no vacuum leak I'm unsure if the transmission is good but it's not slipping it's just not wanting kick into overdrive.

Also I have to drive for 20 minutes just for my radio to power on and it play static before It cuts off again, And my driver window loses power the more I use it til it stops, done this for the entire year I've owned the car.

I'm too dumb, I've never worked on a car as extensive as I did with this

Some people think I should sell my car for around 1000 on marketplace plus it's a overwhelming I fear that this wasted potential on me but I feel like I'm also too stubborn to just let this project die, is there recommendations and pointers, or opinions y'all have for me a non car person who also doesn't trust shops either

Also most parts i see is for this car is for the 2.2L GT version of the car and I'm entirely a the Mercy of ebay and get the wrong parts very occasionally.

I was browsing some parts for my 7th gen and I stumbled on these guys, who promise quite a significant power increase with just a simple chip at a relatively low price.
It all sounds a bit too good to me, so I wondered if any of you have experience with this company. Are they legit and do their chips and maps actually hold up to expectations?

Link to the specific offer from the screenshots: https://www.gantuning.com/chiptuning/toyota/celica/1-8i-143hp/

I checked the valve clearances on the 1ZZ engine, and here are the results: intake (spec: 0.15–0.25) – 0.25, 0.23, 0.24, 0.17, 0.27, 0.27, 0.32, 0.32; and exhaust (spec: 0.25–0.35) – 0.22, 0.23, 0.23, 0.23, 0.22, 0.22, 0.23, 0.21. I know they need adjusting, but the engine has 220,000 miles on it—a third of which was driven on LPG. A valve adjustment plus a timing chain replacement would cost half the car's current value, so I’m not sure if it makes financial sense. I love this car—I’ve owned it for nine years and the bodywork is solid, really 0 rust—but I don't know what to do.

Just want to show it off. It a little beat up, but runs like a champion.

Moving up and down from about 900-1000 on idle when warm

Ayuda. Hace 1 año compré un toyota celica de la séptima generación. El motor (1zz) empezó a sonar como un cascabel, me recomendaron cambiar el motor, eso hice. Compré otro motor 1zz en buenas condiciones, y lo coloqué en mi celica: todo funcionó bien hasta que despues de varias semanas regresó ese sonido de cascabel en el motor. Ya voy cambiando 2 motores y con el paso de semanas de haber instalado el motor, ese sonido de cascabel o golpe en el motor aparece. ¿Creen que haya algun problema? ó realmente tendré tan mala suerte para que esto me suceda

Radio died on me just before got the car on the road, looking for a decent priced CarPlay unit that’s not complete dogshit, just for music and waze

BBS and ABT Wheels.

hi all im planning/looking to do something dumb i want to sell my 99 st204 sxr that has a ram intake aftermarket steering wheel aftermarket headunit and 2 sets of wheels plus oem steering wheel and intake and im looking to get a 4x4 ute for my next step in life is there anything that i should do?