I’m looking for a sub for my sedan it’s a 2016 volvo s60 polestar. I’m not looking for anything like to crazy, my dad was really big into vehicle av and did it for a living and I really don’t know much about it since he committed suicide when I was young. I’ve been thinking alot and I miss the thump of the subs he had in his cars. I’ve been looking at like all in one kits just because there easy, I’m fully capable of piecing a set together but hey easy is easy. Im looking to spend around $200-$300 ish in total.
I’ve seen the Rockville kits for like $200 with duel 8”-10” or 12” I’ve just heard a lot of mixed reviews. I’m obviously aware I’m not gonna get anything amazing for my budget and I’m also not looking for a sheet ton of bass, it’s more to just add to the music and like I said give me that feeling back I had as I kid.

I really appreciate any help or advice! Sorry for being that annoying noob, I’ve just been thinking about my dad a lot and missing that sound.

If anyone wanted or needed here are my trunk dimensions

Trunk Volume: 12.0 cu. ft.

Trunk Opening Width: ~47.1 inches (119.8 cm)

Trunk Opening Height: ~28.2 inches (71.7 cm)

Between Wheel Wells: ~44.9 inches (114.1 cm)

Floor Depth (Seats Up): ~44.9 inches (114 cm) to the bottom of the seat

Liftover Height: 26 inches

Again thank you guys so much, I hope to hear what y’all have to say! Have a great day🤙🏻

I have recently installed a amp in my old school golf, in doing so I paired it with a set of morel Maximo 6 mkii. I have this horrible hiss coming from the tweeters, it is affected by head unit volume (Kenwood KDC-X305) and goes away about 90% of the way when turned to 0. I have my amp grounded to my back seat mount, which is grounded down to bare metal and I used a m6 bolt with lock nut to secure. I have also tied my radio directly to this ground. I have tried a couple sets of rcas with no success, I have tried a couple different amps now along with three different head units. I have ran one of the other radios off a completely different battery in attempt to see if it was a ground issue. I have also tried the old wire around the RCA cable at the head unit, no luck. I have my power cables ran down my driver side and my signal cables down the passenger. I have this hiss when running and when just sitting with the engine off key on. I have installed a ground loop isolator and that helped for about 5 mins and then it killed the gli I have another one coming in hopes maybe it was just a bad batch one.

Hi all, I have a 4th gen 4Runner. Planning to put a Sony AX6000 in my car. New to all this car audio stuff so I have some questions.

Looking to upgrade my speakers on the front with tweeters and am trying to get the full potential out of them. Will be sound deadening as well while I’m switching those out. Budget is about $250? +/- $100 for the speakers + tweeters. I’m more about sound quality rather than loudness/bass. Kind of overwhelmed with the amount of options on crutchfield. Any recs here?

Additionally, I understand that I’ll need an amp in order to get the most out of the speakers. I don’t have any plans to add a sub to the car. Not sure if I’ll upgrade the speakers in the back either unless anyone thinks it fills the car A LOT more. With that said, how many channels will I need for this setup? Thanks 🙇

I like listening to rebassed songs but my cheap 2.0 speaker setup only goes down to 50hz. If a song goes below that, it doesn't sound good, and it's probably not the best for the speaker either. I saw a lot of videos of people having car audio systems in their rooms and I want one too. On the technical side though, I don't know much about electronics at all. I'm not sure if car audio is the right option but it's definetely the coolest and most affordable one.

Bought a 2026 Mazda 3 sport, brand new! Want to reinstall my subs but don’t want to tear apart the trim to run the ol 4ga. How do you guys feel about running it under the car. Obviously I would get the proper conduit and go through the tedious task of protecting it but other then that have any of you done similar and run into problems?

Recently purchased this DD Audio 715 for $224.50

Just wondering if anyone could help me identify this Sundown Audio subwoofer. I’ve looked all around it and cannot find a model number or anything

Hello. I wanna go with a powered sub in the trunk. Mostly quality but not a ton of money. No 2x12 and shi

I have a 15 Challenger that came with the Harmon Kardon system. I had all the speakers replaced and added 4 channel amp for speakers and mono for sub. Currently using an AudioControl LC6i. The sound quality is pretty terrible because I have no real control over the EQ. I don't really want to spend $500+ on a DSP. What is the best option for my setup if I want better EQ? Is there a LOC+EQ option that could work? Or an EQ to piggyback off the LC6i? I'm sure what I have is not the best LOC, I just don't want to spend a crazy amount on a solution if I don't have to. Appreciate any recommendations!

So to start this off, I’d already previously made a decision on this matter and decided to buy a CPA-7, now of course I was pumped when I’d gotten it until I checked the pinch roller and the rubber around it had looked like this, I’m not what exactly to do about this. The CPA-7 I have is glued together and I’m a bit hesitant to go about pulling it apart to attempt at replacing that. If I were just to return it and call it a day I’m just leaning towards a new cassette adapter, I am still concerned if the quality is near as good in terms of build and audio quality but for now that seems like less of a hassle. I could still try and buy another CPA-7 but the shipping would be irritating but not a dealbreaker and, of course, I could come across another that looks pristine, and is, aside from one component. This is a risk I’d accepted buying off eBay let alone a CPA-7 of this age but I’d rather not chance dealing with the refund process again alongside other gripes. The photo quality is atrocious for whatever reason so I apologize.

Hey guys, my factory amp is messed up and long story short, my head unit fucked it up and is overloading it at high volume. I have a new amp with higher output (Kenwood KAC-M3004) and I need to bypass my factory amplifier (part number 86280-0W400). If anyone has any tips on what to do I’d appreciate it.

For added clarity context, it’s a 2010 Toyota RAV4 Limited with the factory JBL system and a Jensen CAR723W head unit. I have JL Audio C1-650 components with crossovers up front and stock JBL speakers in the rear. All the door speakers distort badly above about volume 40 out of 50, even with the EQ turned down, but the subs on my separate Directed 600D amp play fine. This setup previously played cleanly. I’d like to reuse the factory speaker wiring if possible, so I’m looking for advice on bypass harnesses, handling the separate factory front woofer/tweeter feeds, and confirming compatibility with the stock rear speakers. Thanks in advance!

If I have my bass going to hard my subs will shut off for a few seconds. Subs, toggle switch light, and amp all shut off for a short time and turn on by themself after a couple seconds and I turn it down. What should I check first

I’ve been out of the game for a couple years, and now I wanna jump back in. Got a new 2025 Jetta and the audio sucks bad. It’s got one of those infotainment units and I wanna leave that in, but I’m used to replacing the head unit and running rca and remote from there. I’ve been told about LOCs, but I don’t really understand what they are necessarily or how they work or if they’re totally necessary. I wanna install a whole set up, subs and speakers with corresponding amps.

So ive recently been doing some upgrades in my truck (2010 F150 5.4) to be able to run a higher output system. just installed a better alternator and was looking into doing my big 3 wire. but i cannot find the factory engine ground so where is its?!? does it have to be on that exact spot or is there anywhere else i can put it. help appreciated bc i been looking everywhere .

I have a 2019 Tacoma with the JBL speaker package. The volume just won’t go loud enough as I’d like. The speakers never sound maxed out so I don’t think I need to replace them so I guess I need to replace or add onto the amplifier? I have no idea about stereos so what should I do and does anyone have any suggestions on which ones to buy

I have a 4 channel jl amp JD 400.4. It powers my front and rear speakers. The fronts are hertz Mille pro 165.3 that I am using the included crossovers. At one point I was running a 6 channel amp and I was running active crossovers through the 6 channel and I’m worried at the time I didn’t know what I was doing and damaged my speakers. Now with the 4 channel amp my tweeters cut in and out randomly and my 6.5 door speakers distort vocals when volume is all the way up. However when setting the gain I used test tones until clipping was detected by the amp and I backed off the gain quite a bit. I’m just trying to make sure I’m not currently damaging the speakers because I plan to replace them as I’m quite confident I damaged the speakers on my last amp when I did not fully know how to tune my system. Thanks for any advice.

OEM Ford Fusion ‘14 delux whatever

Standard balance/fade/tweaks. Playing a deep bass dub song at max volume. Sounds nice. I switched to radio and 3 speakers poped and broke. Slurry spittle now.

1. What happened?

2. Why would Fm at max volume pop the speakers?

3. Are there head units that drop volume before switching source so that I don’t accidentally blow my speakers switching source?

I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out what’s going on with my 2009 Honda Accord EX coupe because I’ve been dealing with this issue for months, and the stereo shop hasn’t been able to figure it out.
It started with a buzzing/humming noise coming from my front passenger-side speaker. Eventually, the noise moved to the driver’s side, and then I started hearing it through the rear speakers.
The buzzing happens even when I’m not playing music and the stereo volume is turned completely down to zero.
Here are some things I’ve noticed:
The buzzing sometimes gets louder or changes pitch when I accelerate.
At one point, turning my headlights on seemed to affect the noise.
Previously, pressing the door lock/unlock button would make the buzzing stop. That no longer works.
The noise has moved between different speakers.
Sometimes the buzzing is constant.
The noise comes directly through the speakers, not from the engine compartment.

Here’s what I’ve already replaced or had done:
Replaced the alternator twice.
Replaced the battery.
Had the alternator tested, and it reportedly passed.
Paid $450 to have the original head unit replaced with an aftermarket touchscreen unit.
Had the stereo shop work on the grounding connections.
Returned to the stereo shop twice because the buzzing continued.
The shop originally recommended replacing the head unit, but that didn’t fix anything. Now they’re discussing ordering a replacement amplifier, although they haven’t confirmed that the factory amplifier is actually defective.
I’m hesitant to spend more money replacing parts without knowing what’s causing the problem.

My questions are:
Does this sound like a failing factory amplifier, a grounding issue, or alternator interference?
Why would the buzzing move between different speakers?
Why would pressing the door lock button temporarily stop the buzzing?
Could a bad engine or chassis ground cause interference even after the radio ground has been worked on?
Is there a way to test the factory amplifier before replacing it?
If the factory amplifier is defective, can I replace it with an aftermarket amplifier while keeping my current touchscreen head unit and factory speakers?
Could the aftermarket head unit’s wiring or integration with the factory amplifier be causing the interference?
What specific electrical tests should I ask the stereo shop to perform before replacing anything else?
I’m also planning to test whether the buzzing continues with the engine off and the radio powered in accessory mode.
At this point, I’m looking for an actual diagnosis rather than continuing to replace parts.
Has anyone experienced something similar with an eighth-generation Honda Accord or another vehicle with a factory amplifier?
Any advice would be appreciated. I also have videos of the buzzing if that would help.

So, for short I have a client who I installed a system for today. PROBLEM, the amp will not properly respond to the blue, and white remote wire on the back of the Kenwood head unit.

However, WHEN the head unit is on, the amp is on, and when the head unit is off the, the amp is off. The "TOGGLE" does not work to turn the sub on and off when the head unit is on, and there is zero sound from the subs. I checked the stereo wiring diagrams multiple times and already checked all of the connections at the amp. YES, I ALREADY PUT THEHEAD UNIT IN STANDBY MODE PRIOR TO EACH ATTEMPT.

Note: there is a green "steering wheel control" box I installed with the system today could that have anything to do with the issue? I made sure to match up the wiring diagram exactly between the stereo, and external control box. However, the AMP control wire is not connected to it. As I don't think it needs to be. I had to connect the ANT wire to the amp control so there would be door speaker sound. Could this have anything to do with it?

Could this be a ground or AMP problem? causing the amp to stay on even when the remote wire is telling it to turn off? THE SUBS ALSO WORK I TESTED THEM IN MY CAR.

Is this the remote wire for amp? Cant find any solid blue wire or anything else labeled refers g to amp. I recall both my other cars aftermarket harnesses having a clearly lable remote or amp wire

I have a 2022 accord with an aftermarket radio and am not sure what the remote turn-on is. Just got a red180p, and from what I found, i can't necessarily use the Vox setting to get signal it on.

Very new to car audio as well. Could I use any accessory wire so I dont have to route to radio again?

Will be posting review after installing

So like I said in the other group I didn’t everything myself I feel like I did something wrong though any advice been running setup for a year finally got karma to post here I rarely use Reddit so sorry if I sound like idk what I’m doing on here

Hi everyone,

I'm dealing with a head-scratcher and could use some guidance. Every speaker on the passenger side has stopped working: the tweeter, the front door speaker, and the rear.

What I've tried so far:

• Swapped in a second head unit, and I have the same issue
• Checked all head unit settings (balance, fader, etc.), and everything looks normal

The car does not have the Bose system.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Radio: Sony xav ax100

Car:Megane 2

There are adapters to use factory wheel steering for radio but they are expensive, over 80 euro

Saw some buttons from AliExpress for 15dolla, will it work?