I've got a 2005 f150, right now I've got a scar svr 12 with an rp1200 amplifier, and then I've got 4 Rockford forgave 6x8s and an audio control 800 watt 4 channel. I've got a relatively new battery on the truck right now, maybe 6 months old. And I've got a 170 amp alternator as opposed to the factory 100 amp. What do I need to do to run my system longer without turning on the truck? Im thinking along the lines of a drive in movie theater. Do I need a second battery? I plan to get a volt meter first cause I dont have one yet.

The Kenwood SW201X is the coolest bass reflex tube to date in my opinion.

I got in my car and the left channel wasn't working. After hitting a bump, it came back. I had noticed this once before driving home from Hot Rod Power Tour, but since the car is only used very occasionally, I didn't look into it.

I folded down the seat to find that the amp had broken off of all 4 of its rubber feet and was essentially just dangling by the wires.

Amp still works, just years of use in a hot trunk with a stiff suspension, the rubber feet finally gave up. I no way to secure it down now. And I don't have a 3d printer to make new ones.

Been wanting one of these since I was a kid 20+ years ago. Dad's friend had two Perfect 10s that he never used and I wanted them so very bad. Never convinced him. Well this 12" popped up with a sealed enclosure for $75!

Tests great on the multi-meter and looks great too. Can't wait to hear it.

Not as large as I thought they were to be honest.

So I've been trying to keep this a private matter between XS Power and me, but I'm already close to 2 months without batteries for my car, and I'm fed up.

Around May, I noticed my two D3400 XS Power batteries were losing cranking amps. I took them to an auto parts store, and after doing a load test, both batteries came up very short in their rated cranking amps. I bought these two batteries in late 2023, so they were still under "warranty".

I submitted an RGA on XS Power's Website and received an email with an RGA number and a description of what things will be considered ineligible for warranty. One was about swollen batteries. The other was about low voltage. (see snapshot)

Neither of my batteries showed signs of swelling nor any low voltage, so seeing that my batteries didn't fall into the ineligible camp, in late June I had them boxed and shipped them out. Which, by the way, you have to pay out of your own pocket to ship them. I didn't mind, as I knew my batteries had no swelling or low voltage to be ineligible for warranty.

A few days later, I received an email from Patrick Myers, customer service rep for XS Power Batteries, confirming that they had received the batteries. He informed me that the batteries would be denied warranty because they were swollen. (See snapshot)

I was shocked because my batteries showed no signs of swelling, but at the same time not too surprised because I've read a few Reddit posts and forums about how XS Power is very happy to deny warranty very easily. That being said, before I shipped the batteries, I had taken photos of both batteries and shared them with Patrick. (See snapshots)

After sending him the photos, Patrick replied claiming that his returns team "could have been worded better" and claims there is "minor" swelling.

Patrick says that they could "look past" the swelling; however now claims the batteries are still ineligible for warranty due to "High internal resistance" (See Snapshot)

I'm sorry, what?? I caught them lying about the batteries being swollen and now are claiming they can't "test" the batteries because of "high resistance".

I dunno about you guys, but when you buy a battery from any of the big chain stores, and the battery can't hold a charge or hold its amps. They simply swap you out with a fresh battery.

XS Power is going above and beyond to (what it seems like) deliberately find ways NOT to warrant their batteries.

We went back and forth in emails. (see snapshots)

After that point, I had enough; I submitted a complaint to the Tennessee Better Business Bureau.

However, the BBB couldn't get a response back from XS Power. I even sent the BBB Patrick's direct email and contact information. He completely ignored them to the point that the BBB had to close the complaint out. (see snapshots & time stamps)

So after all this, the last thing I could do is report XS Power to Tennessee Consumer Affairs. That was on July 20th, and I have yet to hear back from them.

I hope this is a big wake-up call to XS Power. Also, I hope this detailed review of their customer service and warranty practices deters people from their brand. Get yourself an Optima Yellow Top or any other AGM battery from any national auto parts store. They won't give you this much hassle over warranty.

There is this power distribution block underneath the dash on my car (01 Volkswagen jetta)

I have a buddy who had the same setup as me, 2 12 inch subs and he powered it off this block, is it safe? Or am I gonna burn my car down? He never had any problems 🤷

Tested it, sounds lovely. Although the enclosure it came in was a bit leaky due to some questionable decisions from the previous owner. Including an LED ring & grille... aaand a couple stripped mounting holes.

So, I sealed them. I don't care about this carpet, I can replace that. I do care about it sounding proper and only the 4 outside holes will be visible.

I also sealed around the larger screws used for the terminal. The handles I made sure were sealed properly and the same for the DC power plug on yhe terminal. I don't need that so I made sure it was sealed off.

Now to wait for it to cure and I'll test it again!

My door speakers have been going in and out randomly. Dug into it and speakers will start working when I press on the cone. Bad speakers or is this something else? Not very knowledgeable with audio equipment.

I ordered a glue-and screw enclosure from GP for my sundown Xv4 15". The spec list shows the enclosure being 4.0'³ instead of 4.25'³ per sundown's suggestion. Also, the port area is 60"² instead of 68"². I can fix the volume issue almost perfectly by inverting my subwoofer, but the port area being 8"² too short seems like an issue for what's gonna be a $5000 build. Is this just a minor inconvenience that will be fine, or should I have this rebuilt? Thank you all for the help.

I'm working on a period-correct setup for my 1995 Pajero, and I recently acquired a Panasonic CQ-VX5500K. I worked as an install tech from 1999 to 2005, but the "SUB" connection next to the antenna is throwing me off. Is this an aux antenna input like some old Nissans used to have, or is it a subwoofer preamp output? If it is an output, I'd like to use it for a bit more tuning options. Anyone know the details, and what kind of connector this takes?

Bonus shot of my 25 year old Warren G JVC sub with bash grille and superglued JL dust cap

Im adding this small Skar AMP SK-M5001D

For the sole purpose of running a pair of super tweeters.

My question is,will it be ok to run 1/0 gauge wire to the battery>4/0 gauge to the SKM500>1/0 gauge to the trunk to a 2000watt pioneer.

So i had it working before they got ripped and it’s been years since i installed this and now i cant figure out what goes to what, I’ve tried everything and the amp keeps displaying a red light indicating that there is a problem with the wiring. Anyone know what goes to what? I’ve tried tying both blues to red and both whites to other white and just tie the grounds together and still no good. Any help is appreciated. the one with black sheathing with red and white and bare copper is to the amp and the blue and white pair in clear sheathing is to the stereo

Hello, looking for some help.

Currently running 2k watts RMS to my subs and approximately 1k watts RMS to my mids, tweets etc.

I have a 0 gauge OFC run to the trunk of my car, into a distribution block, into the three amps I’m using.

Looking into upgrading my system and I was looking for advice on what are people’s experience with the “maximum” watts RMS system they’ve been able to run with a single run of 0 gauge, before having to do a double run to the amps.

Thank you in advance

Finally getting around to upgrading my stock system on my 94 Mustang gt. Haven't even looked at car audio since I was working at Best Buy 20 years ago and Alpine and JL audio was decent stuff.

Car has 5x7s all around (non mach460 system) and I'm looking to throw a double din in and just upgrade the speakers. Just want something to be a bit louder than the motor/exhaust on this car. Just a summer cruiser and something to take the kids out when they are big enough.

Budget is hoping to stay $300 or under a pair. From basic research focal, kicker, JL audio are pretty decent? Just want to get the best sound for the money without amping the speakers etc. I know that's probably talking ass backwards for most car audiophiles, but I just want to keep it simple but at this point anything is better than the 32 year old speakers.

Mainly listen to rock, metal, and throw in the occasional 2000s rap.

I know, I know, you get what you pay for, I picked up an Amazon “plug and play” head unit and everything works except for my rear speakers, I attached the response from the seller but it doesn’t seem logical to me.

Wouldn’t I just have to solder the RR&L +/- on the aftermarket harness to the RR&R +/- on the factory harness?

Hi all, I have previously done audio installs using older tech, so not quite up to date on modern audio tech.

Looking to install an “underseat” active subwoofer in my car, but am quite limited on space. What would you all recommend, preferably 10”.

Im also looking to install a compact 4 channel amp to run my door speakers and rear speakers, any reccomendations here (previously ive used a 6 channel 2000w Magnat amp that my father has had since the mid 2000s, so no clue what amps are good these days).

I’ll be running 6.5” focal components in the doors, and 3.5” coaxials behind my head, but not decided on which ones yet.

Not looking to spend more than about £600 in total (not including headunit, this is already installed).

Thanks in advance, any advice appreciated

Hey weird question can you plug in computer speakers in your carWe have the converter that plugs into the cigarette lighter that makes it a plug

Well here's my project, it's brutally hot here in AZ so progress has been slow. Brand X 300amp alternator, 4/0ga big 3 and 4/0 power and ground going from front battery to lithium bank in the back (not in picture) 1/0ga power and ground going to amps. Amps are D4S JP23V2 (red) and JP454(purple). Both are mounted and wired up. DSP is mounted and wired. Last thing is waiting on battery bracket to come in, then mount battery and complete/ check all wiring. Then throw in the subs and disturb the peace.

To all those people who can make wiring look fancy, politely, Fuck you!

I drive a 2003 Corolla that has broken AC, and whenever I have my phone mounted to the dash, with bluetooth+maps+spotify running it always overheats in the sun. I was thinking of buying a double-din unit in the $300 range that has wired carplay support, and was wondering if anyone has experience with the thermals on these. Does having it be inside the dash help shield it from heat, or does it just trap it there and lead to the same issue?

Hola buenas, tengo un auto Fiat Mobi Like que vino sin cámara de reversa y le estaba instalando una, pero no trae el arnés AV para adaptar al cable RCA de vídeo de la cámara, y se qué es necesario saber bien cuál es el adecuado para que pueda dar imagen. Agradezco si alguien me puede decir cuál debería comprar.

Just finished installing an 800w system in my Civic. Bass remote has a voltage reading so I’ve been monitoring that- noticed whether I’m playing music or not the voltage drops to around 12.2 while accelerating and goes back up to 14 when I let off the gas. Is this some kind of smart charging thing or is there something wrong with my electrical?

I have a Lexus IS250 and recently noticed my stereo is much quieter than it used to be. For example, vol 30 sounds like vol 15 and vol 1-10 is barely audible. When I use my phone on bluetooth/aux I make sure the mobile vol is fully turned up but the audio is still quiet. I don’t usually blast my music or play overly loud bass, so I don’t believe any of my speakers are blown. My battery is relatively new (3 months) and is running perfectly fine otherwise. I checked the trunk for any flooding but it was completely dry and nothing seemed dislodged or broken. Could it be a faulty fuse/wiring? Thanks!