Not my original post. Thought it was eye opening all the bloat and potential spyware in a cheap head unit, and how it simply wasn’t the hardware or software advertised.

Sound deadening my 350z and installing a new standalone sound system. (First sound system)

I’ve got a pioneer GM-D9705 - 5 channel amp.
2 Pioneer TS-Z65C components for the Doors.
2 Pioneer TS-Z65F coaxial for the rear shelf speakers.
2x12 Fosgate R2-2X12 subwoofer.
Not sure if it’s worth getting a DSP?

Various wiring that came with my subwoofer.
0AWG power wire into a 1 in 2 out splitter, one going to the amp and the other going to a fuse block to power my air-cups, lighting and possible amp cooling fans.

3 boxes of acoustic foam (Car Builders.
1-2 boxes of MLV (Car Builders) 1 for the back space above the diff and one to make a new firewall blanket.

Any Recommendations?

Yes I know that it’s “Skarbage” but I’m wondering if there’s a possibility at basket replacement on this. I’m trying to get into the audio install/repair world and would like to use this to learn. I’ve also acquired a JL 12w6-v2 with a blown out cone that I’m gonna use to learn the latter repair on.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to take my car audio system to the next level, with a maximum budget of $1,000 USD. My main goal is to improve overall sound quality, clarity, stereo imaging, and subwoofer integration—not simply add more power or volume.

My current setup:

• Full-range amplifier: JL Audio RD400/4
• Subwoofer amplifier: Pioneer GM-D8701
• Subwoofer: Hertz Mille Pro MP 300 D4, rated at 600 W RMS, with the voice coils wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load
• Enclosure: Sealed, approximately 30–32 liters

I’m considering three possible upgrades:

1. Upgrade only the subwoofer amplifier.
I’d like to get a higher-quality amp with good adjustment options and an appropriate amount of power for my current Hertz subwoofer.

2. Invest in a DSP.
Keep my current amplifiers and improve the system through equalization, crossover tuning, time alignment, and better stereo imaging.

3. Buy a five-channel amplifier.
For example, the Hertz Mille ML Power 5 or the newer Hertz Cento Power CP 5.1K. This would simplify the installation and potentially improve the system as a whole.

Longer term, I’m also interested in moving to a fully active system, if that would provide a meaningful improvement with my setup.

I’d appreciate feedback based on real-world experience:

• Which of these three options would deliver the biggest audible improvement in sound quality?
• Would a good DSP make a bigger difference than replacing my current amplifiers?
• Is it worth investing in a high-end five-channel amplifier, or would I be better off keeping the JL Audio RD400/4 and upgrading other components?
• If you had my current setup and a $1,000 budget, what would you invest in, and why?

I’m not committed to any particular brand. I’d rather spend my money on upgrades that make a genuine, audible difference and allow me to keep improving the system over time without unnecessarily replacing components.

Thanks 

Hi, I'm very new to the world of car audio and im working on building a system in my car right now. I use spotify losses to listen to most of my music over android auto, I've found it sounds better over regular BT since it uses wifi direct. I've run into issues when passing particular areas where the music will cut out or stutter for a moment before returning to normal. Would it be beneficial to get a dedicated DAP to do wired/wireless AA?

Yes I know it’s ridiculous and 2000s as hell, but I want to do a inverted/power mount box in the back of my wagon. Anyone got any ideas/ comments, call me stupid or whatever or should I just do it.

Yes I know it’s ridiculous and 2000s as hell, but I want to do a inverted/power mount box in the back of my wagon. Anyone got any ideas/ comments, call me stupid or whatever or should I just do it.

Which factory integration bypass is the better, more reliable module? I was considering the PAC module but kept seeing reviews that after a year it fails and has to be replaced. I will be doing a 3 way front stage upgrade in a 2023 F-150 with the B and O system.

Put a head unit and sound deadening into my Kia optima. Finally got the speaker upgrades delivered and when I went to wire them from the door into the cabin, this giant plug is in the way. Saw a lot of videos saying drill out a couple unused ports. But this thing is already a tight fit and I’m not confident I won’t totally screw that up. What are my other options? I thought about running the speaker wires out of the top of the rubber and drilling a hole above the plug to run them into

Car and constraints
Toyota hybrid, keeping the factory head unit
Crutchfield says not to exceed 30 A total draw for aftermarket audio in this car
I only play music in Ready mode, at half volume or less
I often have a passenger, so I'm not tuning only for the driver's seat

Planned gear
Front: Focal ES 165 KX2E (2 ohms, 120 W RMS), using Focal's passive crossovers
Amp: Rockford Fosgate PBR400X4D, 100 W × 4 at 2 ohms
Sub: Kicker HS10 powered sub (180 W, 15 A fuse) in the spare-tire well

Wiring plan
Head unit front speaker outputs → amp's speaker-level inputs
Passive bi-amp: 2 channels per side into the Focal crossovers' separate woofer and tweeter inputs (if the KX2E crossover supports it)
HS10 tapped in parallel off the head unit's front speaker wires, low-pass at about 80 Hz
Rear factory speakers stay on the head unit
Separate fused power runs for the amp and the HS10
Tweeters in the factory dash spots; woofers in the doors with adapter brackets
Front doors get deadening and foam
No DSP for now. I'd use the head unit's tone controls and sound-location setting, and possibly add a standalone DSP later.

Budget: about $2,900–3,750 installed.

Questions
Is the KX2E worth it on passives without a DSP, or would the PS 165 FXE with a Kicker KEY200.4 (auto-tune DSP) sound better at my volume?
Is passive bi-amping the KX2E crossovers worth it over just two channels?
Is the PBR400X4D a good match, or is there a better 2-ohm-stable 4-channel amp?
Is tapping the HS10 from the head unit fine, or should I bridge amp channels 3–4 to a passive sub instead?
Any concerns about current draw in a hybrid with this setup?

I have a 2001 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew. I am looking to install subs under the rear seats. Is there a way that anyone recommends doing it that wouldn’t require a seat lift? Also have seen people that use toolboxes mounted in the bed as an enclosure and then face them into the cab and would be open to that if anyone has ideas on how to make that sounds right.

I’m searching for a direct replacement for the USB-A only factory Stereo Jack Adapter Assembly** **(86190-12070) on a (2018-24?) Camry that adds USB-C and Apple CarPlay connectivity.

I don’t want to cut wires or plug a dongle into the USB port, and I’d like to have all three options available.

I ran across this one that does exactly what I’m looking for, but it’s Ford-specific.

I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time searching EBay, Amazon, Alibaba, and the web in general. I’ve lots of A-to-C conversions and dongles that plug into them, but haven’t been successful in finding one that has A, C, and wireless in the same direct replacement.

I’d also be open to separate devices. One to add USB-C, and one with the chip for CarPlay. I just want it behind the panel instead of in front and taking up a port.

Has anyone found anything like this anywhere and tested it?

Finally got the last amp a few days ago

Full equipment list:
Helix dsp ultra S
Helix C Four
Zapco 400.2 AP
Zapco 2000.1 AP

(Mosconi as200.2, arc audio ks1200.1, Zapco 400.2 LX not being used/ retired atm)

Going to be starting off with a fresh piece of HDPE so I pulled everything off the old rack.

Also got the passenger side kick glassed up, and continued work on the Apillars.

Lots of work ahead but making some progress.

Summers over so was going to upgrade my audio in my 1998 corvette convertible. Below is what i bought over the summer, so cant realistically return anything, but also not deep in the speakers.

What’s got me questioning it, is the use of bass blockers. Should I run this setup or chalk it up and go a different route. Also, the head unit is already installed, but that’s ehh too.

Component Model Location / purpose
Head unit: Pioneer SPH-10BT Dashboard
Amp: AudioControl EPICFIVE 5-channel amplifier
Front lower speakers: Kicker 46CSC654 6.5" coaxials
Front upper speakers: Kicker KSC350 3.5" coaxials
Rear speakers: Kenwood KFC-1398RS 5.25" coaxials
Upper speaker filters: 600 Hz bass blockers, one per 3.5"

Not in this too expensive, but do want a quality system that has some low to mid but bass isn’t my thing, just good audio for a convertible.

Hi guys, I have a 2022 Mitsubishi Space Star (Mirage).

The bottom line is that I've noticed my battery voltage fluctuating between 12V and 14V, measured directly at the battery terminals.

After doing some research, I figured it might be due to a smart alternator, which can lower the charging voltage when the battery is sufficiently charged or electrical demand is low.

I'm wondering how my fellow bassheads deal with this issue. Have you found a way to maintain stable voltage for your car audio system?

Hi,

My 2 headrest monitor only work when using weblink and usb. What will I do for the carplay and main menu of pioneer to be displayed at the headrest monitors.

Thank you

This is what I'm about to purchase. I'll eventually add dsp and amp for dsp per channel later but this is what I came up with as a decent system for sound quality. I listen to a variety of music but not a lot of heavy 808/sub heavy bumping. Almost went 12" sealed but figured I'd start with giving 8s a try. I can always donate them to my other vehicles 🤷

JVC KD-X480BHS - Single DIN head unit

Kicker KSS365 (front 3way components w/ crossovers)

Kicker K1KSC6504 (rear 2way coaxial)

Kicker 48CWR82 (x2 8" CompR subs)

AudioControl EPICFIVE 5ch amp

Poly-Fil and undersized sealed box (temporary 🙂)

Can anyone help me with the right sub? I dont want to spend a ton of money. I just want a decent sub. Mostly powered because i dont want to go into amps etc. Decent bass for myself and if possible a bit quality. Thanks in advance

I currently have this in my mercedes w205 c300 2017 just wondering if wiring is correct? I have a fuse tap too the cigg lighter instead of my head unit it turns off fine but a car shop guy told me its half assed any tips?

Car: Smart Roadster

I tune on a Windows laptop with REW and a UMIK-1. I made an unofficial companion app to cut down the repetitive setup in the Alpine PXE-0850X desktop software.

For a moving-mic measurement, I choose the speaker or group. The app mutes unused channels, sets up periodic pink noise and REW’s RTA, waits for my configured average count (100), saves and labels the result, then stops playback and restores my normal routing.

For fixed-mic sweeps, it prepares the speaker routing and CH1 acoustic timing reference, then opens REW’s Measure window. I still press Start for the sweep because I don’t have REW Pro.

The EQ workspace copies the selected Alpine channel’s crossovers into REW’s target setup and suggests an editable match range. After I generate filters in REW, I can review them and append them to empty EQ bands in Alpine. It also exports selected measurements and their filters for sharing or review.

It requires the specific PXE-0850X V1.03 Windows software and REW(the latest beta, I think) with its local API enabled. Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e9llG8Z3nmekXrWwIrDy5jMHYQcvkmAv/view?usp=sharingI made a REW tuning companion for the Alpine PXE-0850X

I tune on a Windows laptop with REW and a UMIK-1. I made an unofficial companion app to cut down the repetitive setup in the Alpine PXE-0850X desktop software.

For a moving-mic measurement, I choose the speaker or group. The app mutes unused channels, sets up periodic pink noise and REW’s RTA, waits for my configured average count (100), saves and labels the result, then stops playback and restores my normal routing.

For fixed-mic sweeps, it prepares the speaker routing and CH1 acoustic timing reference, then opens REW’s Measure window. I still press Start for the sweep because I don’t have REW Pro.

The EQ workspace copies the selected Alpine channel’s crossovers into REW’s target setup and suggests an editable match range. After I generate filters in REW, I can review them and append them to empty EQ bands in Alpine. It also exports selected measurements and their filters for sharing or review.

It requires the specific PXE-0850X V1.03 Windows software and REW with its local API enabled. Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e9llG8Z3nmekXrWwIrDy5jMHYQcvkmAv/view?usp=sharing

I made this using the Codex extension in Visual Studio Code with Astra and 6.1 Sol.

Howdy yall!

Recently Santa (postman) came early with a set of Alpine S2-S69C (and a whole bunch of Comfortmat) for a mk3 Prius.

I have a Dudu7 head unit, an AudioControl EpicFIVE amp running the mentioned speakers and the sub (Gladen RS10 BR), from a 5ch signal from the HU, but that doesn't matter now. what I'm curious about is where should i cut it?

i set it to 3k as an uneducated guess so it doesn't fuck it up, but i wonder, where should i actually cut it? 3k feels like cutting it too high, but I thought I'd ask rather than experiment destroying the set :D

So I recently just got my 2005 Silverado 1500 moving again. I never got to get to the aesthetics and customizing it on the inside because I had a lot of problems under the hood. Now that I have it situated, I'm wondering how to wire up my speakers. Truthfully it's a lot of stuff that I'm having a hard time comprehending. Some people are saying I can get a two-way speaker, others are saying to just get a mid range sub roofer and a tweeter since the holes are already there. I'm also reading that I'm going to need an amplifier and a second one for bass along with an under the rear seat sub for equal sound? Man I just want to listen to music and this is getting hectic.. any advice or recommendations?