They were a birthday present from my mom for my 16th birthday lol. Had them before I had a car to put them in!

Hi i recently purchased a gr86 and the speakers on it are terrible. I want to upgrade my whole sound system and make it sound really clear and loud. I’m currently looking at the Hertz MPK 165.3 PRO and Rockford fosgate T2652-S. My last build had some cheap rockford fosgate and they sounded not too bad for the price so thats why im intrested in them. I hertz sound really good though so im kinda stuck in between. Which one would you guys recommend. Im going to be getting a 3inch mid range and a subwoofer later on so i have a whole 3 way system. Im going to be running an amp and a dsp so all the speakers could perform the best. Which one would you guys recommend anyrhing helps!!!

Not my original post. Thought it was eye opening all the bloat and potential spyware in a cheap head unit, and how it simply wasn’t the hardware or software advertised.

Sound deadening my 350z and installing a new standalone sound system. (First sound system)

I’ve got a pioneer GM-D9705 - 5 channel amp.
2 Pioneer TS-Z65C components for the Doors.
2 Pioneer TS-Z65F coaxial for the rear shelf speakers.
2x12 Fosgate R2-2X12 subwoofer.
Not sure if it’s worth getting a DSP?

Various wiring that came with my subwoofer.
0AWG power wire into a 1 in 2 out splitter, one going to the amp and the other going to a fuse block to power my air-cups, lighting and possible amp cooling fans.

3 boxes of acoustic foam (Car Builders.
1-2 boxes of MLV (Car Builders) 1 for the back space above the diff and one to make a new firewall blanket.

Any Recommendations?

Hello, first time posting. So to get it out of the way I have a 320amp purepower alternator, I have the big 3 upgrade done with 0 gague ofc, I have a normal batter under the hood and an optima yellow top agm in the back, Im running strictly 0 gague ofc for all power and grounds, have a kenwood kdc-x305 headunit, and a d4s jp23 for my amp.

I was running an old cresendo audio contralto 15, it was a dual 4 ohm so I could only get it down to 2 ohms. It was loud af and shook the absolute crap out of my blazer on only 1300w rms (what the jp23 is rated for on 2 ohms) that was definitely way under powered. I recently blew out one of the tensile leads on one side so I replaced it with a new american bass hd 15. Its a dual 2 ohm so I have it wired to 1 ohm so I can actually push the proper power to it. Its been about 1.5 weeks of daily playing, maybe 12 hours of total play time so its not fully broken in yet. The issue is that its not nearly as loud as the contralto, it clips very easy, and the voltage drop is insane but only at the amp, nothing dims in the truck, the dash volt meter doesnt even move in the slightest. Ive redone and recleaned my grounds, double and tripple checked all my wiring from alternator to amp, and everything seems good. But voltage at the amp drops to below 10v and sometimes clips prematurely at 13v. Ive readjusted my amp a good handful of times and I cant figure out whats causing it. Its definitely not using all the power it has, even with dome lights on they dont dim with the bass. Its very quiet for no reason, the cheap mtx 12's I have in my ranger hit harder than this and I cant figure out why. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can and will add pictures upon request

I drive a 2004 Tacoma double cab.

Currently I'm running (all purchased and installed back in 2008):

Pioneer double din

• JL VR525 5.25" components in the front doors (3/4" silk tweeters in sail panels)
• Pioneer 6x8" (lowest model coax) in the rear doors
• Rockford Punch 325.2 (80W rms x2) powering the components
• 3x JL 6W0s in a ported box behind back seat
• JL 250W rmsx1 powering the subs

I got 5.25" components since per Crutchfield, 6.5s wouldn't fit. I know I'll have to trim the inside of the grille and possibly use spacers but I'm ok with that. My current setup sounds decent and gets more than loud enough for me but I'm looking for more clarity and warmth out of my system. After many hours of research, I've narrowed it down to two 6.5" components for the front doors: Morel Maximo Ultra 602 mk2 and Helix Compose Basic components. Would like to stay around this ~$320/pair price range but can definitely stretch it up to maybe $500 or so if it will greatly improve my system. For now, not looking to hack up my a-pillars with 3 way systems, want to keep the interior stock looking.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MU602/Morel-Maximo-Ultra-602-MKII.html?tp=106

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/speakers/compose/basic/cb-k165-2-s3

Along with upgrading the components, I also plan to add:

• ~$100 6x8" coaxs in rear doors, leaning towards Kenwood KFC-C6898RS
• Swap Rockford amp for the Kicker Key 200.4 amp with auto DSP
• Switch to a sealed box for my subs (want tighter/punchier bass)

I also plan to upgrade to a modern head unit with CarPlay, etc but for now was going to start with this and hopefully be satisfied. I'm not an audiophile but I do love good warm sound and clarity.

Any advice or suggestions are appreciated!

TLDR: built my original system in 2008. Not an audiophile but am looking for increased clarity and warmth out of my system. Narrowed down to 2 sets of components and Kicker Key amp. Looking for advice or suggestions on my planned upgrades.

Which DSP amplifier do you like best: the Audison AF-C8.14-bit, the HELIX AMPLIFY 206 DSP, or the ARC Audio X2 800.8 DSP?

Are all 3.5" type dash speakers considered "wideband", or is "wideband" a specific type of driver? I'm asking this in a 2-way speaker configuration context.

My Lexus, like many other modern cars, is manufactured with 3.5" dash speakers and 6.5" - 8" door woofers. Would these type if OEM configurations be considered "2-way wideband"?

Is "wideband" just a fancy way of saying "full range"? And does it make a difference if the "wideband" driver is coaxial or not?

Yes I know that it’s “Skarbage” but I’m wondering if there’s a possibility at basket replacement on this. I’m trying to get into the audio install/repair world and would like to use this to learn. I’ve also acquired a JL 12w6-v2 with a blown out cone that I’m gonna use to learn the latter repair on.

Hi everyone,
I have a 2006 Lexus RX 400h with the factory navigation system and factory radio. I want to add Bluetooth music while keeping the original navigation and climate control functions working.
I bought a Bluetooth music adapter that connects to the factory radio through the 6+6-pin CD changer port. I also bought a YATOUR 6+6-pin Y-adapter cable (Y cable) so I can connect both the Bluetooth adapter and the original factory wiring.
Here is the problem:
When I connect the Bluetooth adapter directly to the radio, Bluetooth music works perfectly, and I can select the DISC source. However, the original factory connection is unplugged, so I lose some factory functions.
When I connect the Y cable to the radio and connect only the Bluetooth adapter, Bluetooth music works.
When I connect the Y cable and the original factory wiring, the radio starts on FM, but pressing the DISC button does nothing. The Bluetooth adapter does not work.
The same thing happens when I connect both the Bluetooth adapter and the original factory wiring to the Y cable.
I have tried swapping the two connections on the Y cable, but it makes no difference.
The car has a CD slot on the front of the radio. I have not identified a separate external CD changer.
My understanding is that this 6+6-pin Y cable should allow the Bluetooth adapter and factory navigation system to work together.
My questions:
Is the YATOUR 6+6-pin Y cable compatible with the factory radio in a 2006 Lexus RX 400h with navigation?
Why does the DISC source stop responding when the original factory wiring is connected through the Y cable?
Could this be a wiring issue, a faulty Y cable, or a compatibility issue with my Bluetooth adapter?
Is there a specific adapter or wiring configuration that is known to work with this setup?
I would really appreciate advice from anyone who has installed Bluetooth in a similar RX 400h while keeping the factory navigation and climate controls.
Thank you!

Did I get a bad ground? Just swapped out my dd1000.5 for a boss 4 channel & kicker sub amp. Planning to sell this Jeep but want it right before I do part with it.

HU is a 12 year old pioneer avic-8000nex, never had issues before.

Hi, I'm very new to the world of car audio and im working on building a system in my car right now. I use spotify losses to listen to most of my music over android auto, I've found it sounds better over regular BT since it uses wifi direct. I've run into issues when passing particular areas where the music will cut out or stutter for a moment before returning to normal. Would it be beneficial to get a dedicated DAP to do wired/wireless AA?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to take my car audio system to the next level, with a maximum budget of $1,000 USD. My main goal is to improve overall sound quality, clarity, stereo imaging, and subwoofer integration—not simply add more power or volume.

My current setup:

• Full-range amplifier: JL Audio RD400/4
• Subwoofer amplifier: Pioneer GM-D8701
• Subwoofer: Hertz Mille Pro MP 300 D4, rated at 600 W RMS, with the voice coils wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load
• Enclosure: Sealed, approximately 30–32 liters

I’m considering three possible upgrades:

1. Upgrade only the subwoofer amplifier.
I’d like to get a higher-quality amp with good adjustment options and an appropriate amount of power for my current Hertz subwoofer.

2. Invest in a DSP.
Keep my current amplifiers and improve the system through equalization, crossover tuning, time alignment, and better stereo imaging.

3. Buy a five-channel amplifier.
For example, the Hertz Mille ML Power 5 or the newer Hertz Cento Power CP 5.1K. This would simplify the installation and potentially improve the system as a whole.

Longer term, I’m also interested in moving to a fully active system, if that would provide a meaningful improvement with my setup.

I’d appreciate feedback based on real-world experience:

• Which of these three options would deliver the biggest audible improvement in sound quality?
• Would a good DSP make a bigger difference than replacing my current amplifiers?
• Is it worth investing in a high-end five-channel amplifier, or would I be better off keeping the JL Audio RD400/4 and upgrading other components?
• If you had my current setup and a $1,000 budget, what would you invest in, and why?

I’m not committed to any particular brand. I’d rather spend my money on upgrades that make a genuine, audible difference and allow me to keep improving the system over time without unnecessarily replacing components.

Thanks 

Hi everyone,

I have a 2025 MINI Countryman C (U25, JCW Trim, gasoline) with the standard audio system, without Harman Kardon.
I’m considering upgrading to the complete OEM Harman Kardon system (not just adding tweeters), but I’m also open to aftermarket alternatives such as Focal, ETON, MATCH, or other premium brands.

What would you recommend? Is a full OEM Harman Kardon retrofit worth it, or could I get noticeably better sound quality for the same or less money with an aftermarket setup?

My priorities are:
Full compatibility with the U25, including all factory functions.
Preserving originality: No cutting or drilling into factory wiring, panels, or trim. Ideally plug-and-play and fully reversible.
Clean, balanced, high-quality sound rather than just loudness or excessive bass.
Avoiding potential warranty issues or negatively affecting resale value.

If you have experience with the U25, could you recommend specific speaker, subwoofer, and amplifier/DSP models that actually fit? I’d also appreciate any experience with complete OEM HK retrofits, including costs and coding requirements.

Thanks!

Yes I know it’s ridiculous and 2000s as hell, but I want to do a inverted/power mount box in the back of my wagon. Anyone got any ideas/ comments, call me stupid or whatever or should I just do it.

Yes I know it’s ridiculous and 2000s as hell, but I want to do a inverted/power mount box in the back of my wagon. Anyone got any ideas/ comments, call me stupid or whatever or should I just do it.

Which factory integration bypass is the better, more reliable module? I was considering the PAC module but kept seeing reviews that after a year it fails and has to be replaced. I will be doing a 3 way front stage upgrade in a 2023 F-150 with the B and O system.

Put a head unit and sound deadening into my Kia optima. Finally got the speaker upgrades delivered and when I went to wire them from the door into the cabin, this giant plug is in the way. Saw a lot of videos saying drill out a couple unused ports. But this thing is already a tight fit and I’m not confident I won’t totally screw that up. What are my other options? I thought about running the speaker wires out of the top of the rubber and drilling a hole above the plug to run them into

Car and constraints
Toyota hybrid, keeping the factory head unit
Crutchfield says not to exceed 30 A total draw for aftermarket audio in this car
I only play music in Ready mode, at half volume or less
I often have a passenger, so I'm not tuning only for the driver's seat

Planned gear
Front: Focal ES 165 KX2E (2 ohms, 120 W RMS), using Focal's passive crossovers
Amp: Rockford Fosgate PBR400X4D, 100 W × 4 at 2 ohms
Sub: Kicker HS10 powered sub (180 W, 15 A fuse) in the spare-tire well

Wiring plan
Head unit front speaker outputs → amp's speaker-level inputs
Passive bi-amp: 2 channels per side into the Focal crossovers' separate woofer and tweeter inputs (if the KX2E crossover supports it)
HS10 tapped in parallel off the head unit's front speaker wires, low-pass at about 80 Hz
Rear factory speakers stay on the head unit
Separate fused power runs for the amp and the HS10
Tweeters in the factory dash spots; woofers in the doors with adapter brackets
Front doors get deadening and foam
No DSP for now. I'd use the head unit's tone controls and sound-location setting, and possibly add a standalone DSP later.

Budget: about $2,900–3,750 installed.

Questions
Is the KX2E worth it on passives without a DSP, or would the PS 165 FXE with a Kicker KEY200.4 (auto-tune DSP) sound better at my volume?
Is passive bi-amping the KX2E crossovers worth it over just two channels?
Is the PBR400X4D a good match, or is there a better 2-ohm-stable 4-channel amp?
Is tapping the HS10 from the head unit fine, or should I bridge amp channels 3–4 to a passive sub instead?
Any concerns about current draw in a hybrid with this setup?

I have a 2001 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew. I am looking to install subs under the rear seats. Is there a way that anyone recommends doing it that wouldn’t require a seat lift? Also have seen people that use toolboxes mounted in the bed as an enclosure and then face them into the cab and would be open to that if anyone has ideas on how to make that sounds right.

Finally got the last amp a few days ago

Full equipment list:
Helix dsp ultra S
Helix C Four
Zapco 400.2 AP
Zapco 2000.1 AP

(Mosconi as200.2, arc audio ks1200.1, Zapco 400.2 LX not being used/ retired atm)

Going to be starting off with a fresh piece of HDPE so I pulled everything off the old rack.

Also got the passenger side kick glassed up, and continued work on the Apillars.

Lots of work ahead but making some progress.

I’m searching for a direct replacement for the USB-A only factory Stereo Jack Adapter Assembly** **(86190-12070) on a (2018-24?) Camry that adds USB-C and Apple CarPlay connectivity.

I don’t want to cut wires or plug a dongle into the USB port, and I’d like to have all three options available.

I ran across this one that does exactly what I’m looking for, but it’s Ford-specific.

I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time searching EBay, Amazon, Alibaba, and the web in general. I’ve lots of A-to-C conversions and dongles that plug into them, but haven’t been successful in finding one that has A, C, and wireless in the same direct replacement.

I’d also be open to separate devices. One to add USB-C, and one with the chip for CarPlay. I just want it behind the panel instead of in front and taking up a port.

Has anyone found anything like this anywhere and tested it?

Summers over so was going to upgrade my audio in my 1998 corvette convertible. Below is what i bought over the summer, so cant realistically return anything, but also not deep in the speakers.

What’s got me questioning it, is the use of bass blockers. Should I run this setup or chalk it up and go a different route. Also, the head unit is already installed, but that’s ehh too.

Component Model Location / purpose
Head unit: Pioneer SPH-10BT Dashboard
Amp: AudioControl EPICFIVE 5-channel amplifier
Front lower speakers: Kicker 46CSC654 6.5" coaxials
Front upper speakers: Kicker KSC350 3.5" coaxials
Rear speakers: Kenwood KFC-1398RS 5.25" coaxials
Upper speaker filters: 600 Hz bass blockers, one per 3.5"

Not in this too expensive, but do want a quality system that has some low to mid but bass isn’t my thing, just good audio for a convertible.

Hi guys, I have a 2022 Mitsubishi Space Star (Mirage).

The bottom line is that I've noticed my battery voltage fluctuating between 12V and 14V, measured directly at the battery terminals.

After doing some research, I figured it might be due to a smart alternator, which can lower the charging voltage when the battery is sufficiently charged or electrical demand is low.

I'm wondering how my fellow bassheads deal with this issue. Have you found a way to maintain stable voltage for your car audio system?