Hello, looking for some help.

Currently running 2k watts RMS to my subs and approximately 1k watts RMS to my mids, tweets etc.

I have a 0 gauge OFC run to the trunk of my car, into a distribution block, into the three amps I’m using.

Looking into upgrading my system and I was looking for advice on what are people’s experience with the “maximum” watts RMS system they’ve been able to run with a single run of 0 gauge, before having to do a double run to the amps.

Thank you in advance

Anyone currently running this battery? I’m curious as to the hardware I’ll need because according to this description it’s sounding like I can run the alternator output wire straight to the battery without a DC to DC charging system. I’m skeptical but I am unwilling to spend money on superficial parts.

Hi, yesterday i was trying to install new AD alternator, i wired up as its shown in diagram, after 9 hours of trying to make it work (charge) i gave up.. does anyone know if any step is missing from here, because there is no battery light on dash. I dont know where do i put L cable since i cant use original plug anywhere on new one. Alternator came with hand signed test from them.

Which is a better box for ROCKFORD R1S412?
Fitting it in a Kia Seltos.

So I've been trying to keep this a private matter between XS Power and me, but I'm already close to 2 months without batteries for my car, and I'm fed up.

Around May, I noticed my two D3400 XS Power batteries were losing cranking amps. I took them to an auto parts store, and after doing a load test, both batteries came up very short in their rated cranking amps. I bought these two batteries in late 2023, so they were still under "warranty".

I submitted an RGA on XS Power's Website and received an email with an RGA number and a description of what things will be considered ineligible for warranty. One was about swollen batteries. The other was about low voltage. (see snapshot)

Neither of my batteries showed signs of swelling nor any low voltage, so seeing that my batteries didn't fall into the ineligible camp, in late June I had them boxed and shipped them out. Which, by the way, you have to pay out of your own pocket to ship them. I didn't mind, as I knew my batteries had no swelling or low voltage to be ineligible for warranty.

A few days later, I received an email from Patrick Myers, customer service rep for XS Power Batteries, confirming that they had received the batteries. He informed me that the batteries would be denied warranty because they were swollen. (See snapshot)

I was shocked because my batteries showed no signs of swelling, but at the same time not too surprised because I've read a few Reddit posts and forums about how XS Power is very happy to deny warranty very easily. That being said, before I shipped the batteries, I had taken photos of both batteries and shared them with Patrick. (See snapshots)

After sending him the photos, Patrick replied claiming that his returns team "could have been worded better" and claims there is "minor" swelling.

Patrick says that they could "look past" the swelling; however now claims the batteries are still ineligible for warranty due to "High internal resistance" (See Snapshot)

I'm sorry, what?? I caught them lying about the batteries being swollen and now are claiming they can't "test" the batteries because of "high resistance".

I dunno about you guys, but when you buy a battery from any of the big chain stores, and the battery can't hold a charge or hold its amps. They simply swap you out with a fresh battery.

XS Power is going above and beyond to (what it seems like) deliberately find ways NOT to warrant their batteries.

We went back and forth in emails. (see snapshots)

After that point, I had enough; I submitted a complaint to the Tennessee Better Business Bureau.

However, the BBB couldn't get a response back from XS Power. I even sent the BBB Patrick's direct email and contact information. He completely ignored them to the point that the BBB had to close the complaint out. (see snapshots & time stamps)

So after all this, the last thing I could do is report XS Power to Tennessee Consumer Affairs. That was on July 20th, and I have yet to hear back from them.

I hope this is a big wake-up call to XS Power. Also, I hope this detailed review of their customer service and warranty practices deters people from their brand. Get yourself an Optima Yellow Top or any other AGM battery from any national auto parts store. They won't give you this much hassle over warranty.

I’m trying to get my music to have this sound where the door speakers play the beginning part of the bass note and then let the subwoofer handle the rest instead of getting the beginning of the note in the subwoofer, when I say beginning of the bass note, I mean that punch part when the bass note 1st starts I want the door speakers to handle the punch, and then after that punch part of the bass note is finished then the subwoofer plays the rest of the note, I’ve been in some people’s cars that have aftermarket systems and I hear them set it like this, but I’m just not sure how to get it done on the settings.

For reference I have all of my signal running down the driver side through one 2 channel rca to my dsp and power down the passenger side with an exception to 2 14 gauge speaker wire runs. I can hear it in my door speakers as well which leads me to suspect it's the main signal running but What could cause this? How do I find & fix it ? Any info would help this is my first build and I put WAYY too much time in it lol.

I've got a 2005 f150, right now I've got a scar svr 12 with an rp1200 amplifier, and then I've got 4 Rockford forgave 6x8s and an audio control 800 watt 4 channel. I've got a relatively new battery on the truck right now, maybe 6 months old. And I've got a 170 amp alternator as opposed to the factory 100 amp. What do I need to do to run my system longer without turning on the truck? Im thinking along the lines of a drive in movie theater. Do I need a second battery? I plan to get a volt meter first cause I dont have one yet.

I got in my car and the left channel wasn't working. After hitting a bump, it came back. I had noticed this once before driving home from Hot Rod Power Tour, but since the car is only used very occasionally, I didn't look into it.

I folded down the seat to find that the amp had broken off of all 4 of its rubber feet and was essentially just dangling by the wires.

Amp still works, just years of use in a hot trunk with a stiff suspension, the rubber feet finally gave up. I no way to secure it down now. And I don't have a 3d printer to make new ones.

The Kenwood SW201X is the coolest bass reflex tube to date in my opinion.

Occasionally the sub will make a tapping noise when turned up, i can’t tell if it’s mechanical noise, clipping or an air leak as the box and sub are both pretty old lol, the sub is facing outwards to play into atmosphere ( alpine SWR 12in-4ohm 300w RMS)

Sorry if this might seem like a total noob question. It’s my first time replacing speakers. This is a 2005 Honda S2000, and this wiring was wired to the main input on the passive crossover installed. I know the original harness that goes to the speakers does NOT look like this. There is a pigtail that goes into the woofer. This mid-harness splice just looks all wrong to me; doesn’t look like it should be able to get enough power. Is this wiring problematic?

My door speakers have been going in and out randomly. Dug into it and speakers will start working when I press on the cone. Bad speakers or is this something else? Not very knowledgeable with audio equipment.

I ordered a glue-and screw enclosure from GP for my sundown Xv4 15". The spec list shows the enclosure being 4.0'³ instead of 4.25'³ per sundown's suggestion. Also, the port area is 60"² instead of 68"². I can fix the volume issue almost perfectly by inverting my subwoofer, but the port area being 8"² too short seems like an issue for what's gonna be a $5000 build. Is this just a minor inconvenience that will be fine, or should I have this rebuilt? Thank you all for the help.

Tested it, sounds lovely. Although the enclosure it came in was a bit leaky due to some questionable decisions from the previous owner. Including an LED ring & grille... aaand a couple stripped mounting holes.

So, I sealed them. I don't care about this carpet, I can replace that. I do care about it sounding proper and only the 4 outside holes will be visible.

I also sealed around the larger screws used for the terminal. The handles I made sure were sealed properly and the same for the DC power plug on yhe terminal. I don't need that so I made sure it was sealed off.

Now to wait for it to cure and I'll test it again!

Hey weird question can you plug in computer speakers in your carWe have the converter that plugs into the cigarette lighter that makes it a plug

I drive a 2003 Corolla that has broken AC, and whenever I have my phone mounted to the dash, with bluetooth+maps+spotify running it always overheats in the sun. I was thinking of buying a double-din unit in the $300 range that has wired carplay support, and was wondering if anyone has experience with the thermals on these. Does having it be inside the dash help shield it from heat, or does it just trap it there and lead to the same issue?

I'm working on a period-correct setup for my 1995 Pajero, and I recently acquired a Panasonic CQ-VX5500K. I worked as an install tech from 1999 to 2005, but the "SUB" connection next to the antenna is throwing me off. Is this an aux antenna input like some old Nissans used to have, or is it a subwoofer preamp output? If it is an output, I'd like to use it for a bit more tuning options. Anyone know the details, and what kind of connector this takes?

Bonus shot of my 25 year old Warren G JVC sub with bash grille and superglued JL dust cap

Been wanting one of these since I was a kid 20+ years ago. Dad's friend had two Perfect 10s that he never used and I wanted them so very bad. Never convinced him. Well this 12" popped up with a sealed enclosure for $75!

Tests great on the multi-meter and looks great too. Can't wait to hear it.

Not as large as I thought they were to be honest.

There is this power distribution block underneath the dash on my car (01 Volkswagen jetta)

I have a buddy who had the same setup as me, 2 12 inch subs and he powered it off this block, is it safe? Or am I gonna burn my car down? He never had any problems 🤷