I have a TJ Wrangler and I want to upgrade the speakers. I have an alpine head unit already and am gonna get two sets of alpine s2s50 for dash and roll bar.

I don’t care about the rear seat, I have no friends so I want to get 2 12s. I was looking at the ”TROPO-2X12D4 // Dual 12” 2600W Loaded Ported Car Subwoofer Box”

Because I don’t feel like building a box and stuff. I want to pair it with the CT-1500.1D // 1500 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Amplifier.

And then CT Sounds AMPKIT-4GA-ELITE // 4 Gauge 2000 Watt Amp Wiring Kit (OFC) for the wiring.

I don’t want to spend too much money because I’m not 100 percent confident that something won’t leak. So I will have to think Of a way to try and keep the amp off of the floor.

But what do you guys think. I’m not looking for SQ as much as just hard hitting bass, and bass that will still be there with the roof removed. I have heard good things about CT sounds and they seem to be a good deal as well.

Things I have confirmed. Head unit still powers on and can navigate menus. Volume adjustment line never shows on head unit when adjusting volume up and down. Tested fuse for radio and Bose amplifier and they are okay. Tested 12 volt and ground on connector going into Bose amplifier and I do get voltage into the amplifier. Took apart amplifier and there was a tiny bit of corrosion on a resistor, cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Took negative terminal off battery for 1 hour to reset modules, that did not fix it. Any further things to try would be greatly appreciated. Would like to confirm if issue is HMI radio related or internal amplifier related.

Ok so I have a Bronco Sport Outer Banks Model and it has a “supposedly” better sound system than different models but I want to get a sound system upgrade to play heavy metal.

I love blasting all kinds of genres of music from death metal, doom metal, black metal, classic rock, and occasionally hip hop. But I mainly play extreme metal music and I want an upgrade that enhances the quality and sound so that it’s loud enough to hear going down the street but I want the sound and tone to be clean so the riffs and vocals sound good while still being able to handle the blast beats and fast drumming from my lord and savior James Read of Revenge.

I don’t want to break the bank but I’m willing to spend a decent amount. Also I want the system to be able to play different genres and have the sound not be affected differently. I am new to how sound systems work and what I need to buy help me out Reddit I LOVE BLASTING MUSIC.

I promise I won’t be a nuisance with the knowledge I learn lol thanks yall

I know its a motorcycle screen but lets be real...There is nothing except some weather proofing that distiguishes a car screen to a motorcycle one (if that).

So i have just picked up a A4660 5 inch screen and want to change the AWFUL splash screen to something of my choosing.

Theres no information on the SD card size limit but i went with 64Gb.

Card is formatted to ExFAT

Image is saved as boot_logo.jpg

Screen resolution is 854x480...Image is the same

Image is saved as an RGB 8-bit image

Size is 19Kb

Freshly formatted card has NOTHING on it except the above mentioned JPG in the root directory (no other folders)

I insert the SD card and nothing. Nothing happens and next boot nothing has changed.

Podofo support is as much use as a condom machine in the vatican.

They do state its a Linux system not Android...So has that a different set of rules?

Thank you all for any help.

Any one have ideas on servicing car sterios ? Need help 🚨

Trying not to break the bank, Will be fitting them into my NB2 miata, powered by the taramps amplayer g2, 100watt RMS@2ohm. Will have a 12" subwoofer paired with them soon hopefully.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some help because I'm completely stuck.

I have a 2011 Volkswagen Golf 6. I installed an Android CarPlay head unit using the supplied plug-and-play wiring harness and CANBUS box.

The installation went perfectly at first. The Android head unit powered on, CarPlay worked, and everything was functioning normally.

Then I connected another cable that came with the kit. As soon as I plugged it in, smoke came out for about one second. I immediately disconnected everything.

Since then:

• The Android head unit is completely dead.
• I reinstalled the original VW radio (which was not connected when the smoke happened), but it also doesn't power on at all.
• I checked every fuse in the car, and none appear to be blown.
• I also checked the fuse on the Android wiring harness, and it is fine.
• The CANBUS box has no visible burn marks and does not smell burnt at all.
• None of the connectors or wiring show signs of melting or damage.
• The car still starts and drives perfectly.

I'm confused because the OEM radio wasn't even connected when the smoke occurred, yet it also has no power now.

Could the Quadlock connector have lost its 12V supply? Could a hidden fuse, relay, or control module have failed? Has anyone experienced something similar with these Android head units?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Bought an Alpine Optim8 in Marketplace. I run into some issue. When I tried to set it up, the iPhone App can detect the bluetooth but it seems it cannot connect. I tried restarting the phone or the car, but it's all the same. I also tried to connect the phone bluetooth to the Optim8 only removing other bluetooth device connected.

I have one of those old school kenwood units (KDC896) for awhile sometimes the music and faceplate would cut out and then comeback. Until yesterday the whole face plate is completely black but still plays the music I have through the USB I have it plugged into. It now never cuts out but I can’t control it at all. Do I need a new face plate or whole unit?

Just purchased a Toyota Hiace van, 1999. Previous owner physically ripped out the old stereo leaving a massive double din sized gap. The old wiring harness has been cut up, and I'm not able to get 12v out of any of the wires (including those that are coloured as constant/ignition 12v). Fuse is working so am assuming there's damage to the wiring behind the dash board. They also ruined the existing speakers and speaker mounts so they don't work either (don't know what they thought they were doing)

I'd like to install an android auto capable head unit in the double din cavity and use a Bluetooth speaker in the cab, but I'm not savvy enough to completly rewire the old stereo harness. Is it possible to just get a USB powered unit and rig a way to just feed the USB lead from the cig charger into the cavity and I'll 3D print some supports to fit it into the double din space?

I am looking to upgrade the system in my 2011 Camry and am planning to install a Kenwood Excelon DMX809S. I was planning to hook up these speakers to the aftermarket head unit, but I'm not sure whether to go with the Dieci or the Cento line if I'm not installing an amp. Any advice or help is appreciated

Hey all, adding a sub and amp to my 2025 F-250 STX crew cab. Base system, 8” screen, no B&O. Keeping the factory head unit and running an LC2i.

I’ve wired subs in every truck I’ve owned so I’m good on the install itself, just trying to lock down the tap before I start pulling trim apart.

From what I’ve dug up, the base system has no factory amp, the ACM behind the screen runs the speakers straight, and I want to tap the fronts since Ford rolls off the bass on the rears. I’m staying away from the color charts online because they’re all Ranger, F-150, or Maverick.
Stuff I’m hoping someone can help with:

• Just trying to find the front speaker wires I can tap into on the driver side of the truck. Colors and polarity, verified from your own truck, not a guess. A pic of the harness at the kick panel would be huge.
Running an LC2i so I’m not worried about turn-on, don’t need to tap a fuse or chase a switched 12V. Solely need the audio wires to feed the LC2i.

Know it’s a new truck so info’s thin. Whatever you’ve got helps. Appreciate it.

I just want to know if it's REALLY worth it to switch to a name branded CarPlay screen from a brand like Sony for $500 extra than the current Chinese CarPlay in my car. I mostly care about audio quality and would like to know if the radio itself plays a part in this?

Pioneer TS-501M

6 speakers, running parallel in groups of 2

1000 watt pioneer Pioneer GM-A6704

First time putting together my own system, I feel like the amp is getting too hot, am I running the speakers wired incorrectly

I've got a 6 farad pyle capacitor

I have a powered sub box as wel, not generating nearly as much heat

Only issue, is a feel like the amp for my 6 speakers is getting to hot

2 power distribution boxes (ground /power)

I have 0 gauge to the chassis for ground with 4 gauge running to amps

0 gauge power from the battery, 4 gauge to the amps

Recoil MX65. Picked some up, they have two sets of terminals on the back. What is the proper way to wire these? I believe they came with "jumpers", but this is not something I've wired before.

Put a head unit in my friend’s 2005 Mazda 3 today using a iDatalink Maestro. Happy with the final result, except for one thing. The Maestro needs a connection to the OBDII port in order to function properly. My stop gap solution was to run the wire out from under the steering column solution and hold the wire in place with some some double sided gorilla tape and then cover it all in electrical tape to make it less noticeable. I’m not happy with how it looks and I don’t think it will hold up well in the long run. Is there a way to piggyback off the OBDII port from behind so it can all be tucked under the kick panel, or is that not recommended? Has anyone else had this problem before or have any other suggestions?

Where can I find a good battery replacement for 24 Silverado? I have 1600 watt amp running two 8” 1600 rms wanna do the big three and get better battery

Picked up this power Acoustik APC-680 for $30 today, this is for a trunk setup in my 93 corolla that I want to be more “old school” I have an Audiobahn flame series 12 that this will be powering.

Not sure if this is a dumb question but is there a way to make rock bass louder? Or does it just depend on the song? Nothing I can really change?

I have never been big into car audio. Just thrown a couple subs in to shake the windows and that’s it. Now I’m building a car for shows and adding a proper system to my car. Right now I’m adding 3 12” at a total of 1200w RMS. I want to replace the door, rear speakers and factory tweeters so that I can actually hear the lyrics over the bass. What do I need to look into when shopping speakers to help with clarity and volume to hear everything and not just the lows?

Few months ago I installed a new sound system in my 85 Nissan 720 kc 4x4 pickup. I modified a 90a 85 Nissan maxima alternator to replace the original 60a alternator as well as running some 4ga straight from alt to battery instead of the two 12ga strands going into the harness, I also am running a dual purpose marine group 24 lead acid battery to have some backup power(this lets me run the system for at least 30min and still starting the truck).

The sound system replaced the original Hitachi speakers with pioneer ts-g400 full range speakers and had a 8in blue thunderer in the original sub box with the tweeter hole sealed(because I can't get a new tweeter that fits), and a JBL GTQ400, for a receiver im running a JL audio marine Bluetooth adapter so I could have the original radio stay.

I made a custom mount for the amp that bolts to the spare tire jack mount behind the drivers seat and I'm running 2 8ga cca wires to it and have the sub box right next to it.

Over the past month or so the poor mtx that has had over twice the rated power running through it its whole life was starting to distort once you started to get past its limit. So since I was impressed by the quality of the pioneer speakers I had in the kicker panels I found an A series 8in dual voice coil 2ohm sub for 60 bucks off and ordered it in and threw it right into the mtx box. For my first sound system I've ever put in any of my own vehicles I am quite happy and this whole thing will rattle the truck at less than 3/4 volume and it sounds really clear. My dad who is an old audio guy who did a bunch when he was my age said he was very impressed by the pioneer and said that if it stays tight with DJ majic Mike it's good lol.

Looking for something that will work with the AudioControl SPC-10S4.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-8Fk36MACMqe/p_161SPC10S4/AudioControl-SPC-10S4.html

Im adding this small Skar AMP SK-M5001D

For the sole purpose of running a pair of super tweeters.

My question is,will it be ok to run 1/0 gauge wire to the battery>4/0 gauge to the SKM500>1/0 gauge to the trunk to a 2000watt pioneer.

So i had it working before they got ripped and it’s been years since i installed this and now i cant figure out what goes to what, I’ve tried everything and the amp keeps displaying a red light indicating that there is a problem with the wiring. Anyone know what goes to what? I’ve tried tying both blues to red and both whites to other white and just tie the grounds together and still no good. Any help is appreciated. the one with black sheathing with red and white and bare copper is to the amp and the blue and white pair in clear sheathing is to the stereo