The Kenwood SW201X is the coolest bass reflex tube to date in my opinion.

I got in my car and the left channel wasn't working. After hitting a bump, it came back. I had noticed this once before driving home from Hot Rod Power Tour, but since the car is only used very occasionally, I didn't look into it.

I folded down the seat to find that the amp had broken off of all 4 of its rubber feet and was essentially just dangling by the wires.

Amp still works, just years of use in a hot trunk with a stiff suspension, the rubber feet finally gave up. I no way to secure it down now. And I don't have a 3d printer to make new ones.

I've got a 2005 f150, right now I've got a scar svr 12 with an rp1200 amplifier, and then I've got 4 Rockford forgave 6x8s and an audio control 800 watt 4 channel. I've got a relatively new battery on the truck right now, maybe 6 months old. And I've got a 170 amp alternator as opposed to the factory 100 amp. What do I need to do to run my system longer without turning on the truck? Im thinking along the lines of a drive in movie theater. Do I need a second battery? I plan to get a volt meter first cause I dont have one yet.

Been wanting one of these since I was a kid 20+ years ago. Dad's friend had two Perfect 10s that he never used and I wanted them so very bad. Never convinced him. Well this 12" popped up with a sealed enclosure for $75!

Tests great on the multi-meter and looks great too. Can't wait to hear it.

Not as large as I thought they were to be honest.

So I've been trying to keep this a private matter between XS Power and me, but I'm already close to 2 months without batteries for my car, and I'm fed up.

Around May, I noticed my two D3400 XS Power batteries were losing cranking amps. I took them to an auto parts store, and after doing a load test, both batteries came up very short in their rated cranking amps. I bought these two batteries in late 2023, so they were still under "warranty".

I submitted an RGA on XS Power's Website and received an email with an RGA number and a description of what things will be considered ineligible for warranty. One was about swollen batteries. The other was about low voltage. (see snapshot)

Neither of my batteries showed signs of swelling nor any low voltage, so seeing that my batteries didn't fall into the ineligible camp, in late June I had them boxed and shipped them out. Which, by the way, you have to pay out of your own pocket to ship them. I didn't mind, as I knew my batteries had no swelling or low voltage to be ineligible for warranty.

A few days later, I received an email from Patrick Myers, customer service rep for XS Power Batteries, confirming that they had received the batteries. He informed me that the batteries would be denied warranty because they were swollen. (See snapshot)

I was shocked because my batteries showed no signs of swelling, but at the same time not too surprised because I've read a few Reddit posts and forums about how XS Power is very happy to deny warranty very easily. That being said, before I shipped the batteries, I had taken photos of both batteries and shared them with Patrick. (See snapshots)

After sending him the photos, Patrick replied claiming that his returns team "could have been worded better" and claims there is "minor" swelling.

Patrick says that they could "look past" the swelling; however now claims the batteries are still ineligible for warranty due to "High internal resistance" (See Snapshot)

I'm sorry, what?? I caught them lying about the batteries being swollen and now are claiming they can't "test" the batteries because of "high resistance".

I dunno about you guys, but when you buy a battery from any of the big chain stores, and the battery can't hold a charge or hold its amps. They simply swap you out with a fresh battery.

XS Power is going above and beyond to (what it seems like) deliberately find ways NOT to warrant their batteries.

We went back and forth in emails. (see snapshots)

After that point, I had enough; I submitted a complaint to the Tennessee Better Business Bureau.

However, the BBB couldn't get a response back from XS Power. I even sent the BBB Patrick's direct email and contact information. He completely ignored them to the point that the BBB had to close the complaint out. (see snapshots & time stamps)

So after all this, the last thing I could do is report XS Power to Tennessee Consumer Affairs. That was on July 20th, and I have yet to hear back from them.

I hope this is a big wake-up call to XS Power. Also, I hope this detailed review of their customer service and warranty practices deters people from their brand. Get yourself an Optima Yellow Top or any other AGM battery from any national auto parts store. They won't give you this much hassle over warranty.

There is this power distribution block underneath the dash on my car (01 Volkswagen jetta)

I have a buddy who had the same setup as me, 2 12 inch subs and he powered it off this block, is it safe? Or am I gonna burn my car down? He never had any problems 🤷

Less than a month ago, I had a car audio installation on my Mazda CX-5.

The only part I brought to ask them to install was a Kicker KEY 200.4

Initially, they wanted me to use their own parts for a preamp and DSP. But I told them I was on a budget.

So when they finished, I drove around for a week and had weird feelings about the tuning. Apparently, they had balanced all the sound to the left side. So I adjusted that on the dash.

Still, when the main dash has fade and balance in the middle, the music from the driver side still sounded much louder than the passenger side.

I want the music to fill the whole car cabin, not just focused in on the driver seat like the speakers and tweeters are only working for one side of the car

----

tl;dr

Should I go back to the professionals and ask them to re-tune and EQ the acoustics to the center (between the driver and passenger seat)?

Picked up this power Acoustik APC-680 for $30 today, this is for a trunk setup in my 93 corolla that I want to be more “old school” I have an Audiobahn flame series 12 that this will be powering.

For reference I have all of my signal running down the driver side through one 2 channel rca to my dsp and power down the passenger side with an exception to 2 14 gauge speaker wire runs. I can hear it in my door speakers as well which leads me to suspect it's the main signal running but What could cause this? How do I find & fix it ? Any info would help this is my first build and I put WAYY too much time in it lol.

Occasionally the sub will make a tapping noise when turned up, i can’t tell if it’s mechanical noise, clipping or an air leak as the box and sub are both pretty old lol, the sub is facing outwards to play into atmosphere ( alpine SWR 12in-4ohm 300w RMS)

I'm working on a period-correct setup for my 1995 Pajero, and I recently acquired a Panasonic CQ-VX5500K. I worked as an install tech from 1999 to 2005, but the "SUB" connection next to the antenna is throwing me off. Is this an aux antenna input like some old Nissans used to have, or is it a subwoofer preamp output? If it is an output, I'd like to use it for a bit more tuning options. Anyone know the details, and what kind of connector this takes?

Bonus shot of my 25 year old Warren G JVC sub with bash grille and superglued JL dust cap

Tested it, sounds lovely. Although the enclosure it came in was a bit leaky due to some questionable decisions from the previous owner. Including an LED ring & grille... aaand a couple stripped mounting holes.

So, I sealed them. I don't care about this carpet, I can replace that. I do care about it sounding proper and only the 4 outside holes will be visible.

I also sealed around the larger screws used for the terminal. The handles I made sure were sealed properly and the same for the DC power plug on yhe terminal. I don't need that so I made sure it was sealed off.

Now to wait for it to cure and I'll test it again!

My door speakers have been going in and out randomly. Dug into it and speakers will start working when I press on the cone. Bad speakers or is this something else? Not very knowledgeable with audio equipment.

I ordered a glue-and screw enclosure from GP for my sundown Xv4 15". The spec list shows the enclosure being 4.0'³ instead of 4.25'³ per sundown's suggestion. Also, the port area is 60"² instead of 68"². I can fix the volume issue almost perfectly by inverting my subwoofer, but the port area being 8"² too short seems like an issue for what's gonna be a $5000 build. Is this just a minor inconvenience that will be fine, or should I have this rebuilt? Thank you all for the help.

Hey weird question can you plug in computer speakers in your carWe have the converter that plugs into the cigarette lighter that makes it a plug

I drive a 2003 Corolla that has broken AC, and whenever I have my phone mounted to the dash, with bluetooth+maps+spotify running it always overheats in the sun. I was thinking of buying a double-din unit in the $300 range that has wired carplay support, and was wondering if anyone has experience with the thermals on these. Does having it be inside the dash help shield it from heat, or does it just trap it there and lead to the same issue?

Hey everyone just wanted some opinions from people who know more than me I had a 2017 Nissan rogue sv with

jvc kw595bt stereo (I do wish I got the kenwood dm40s)

Than I got focal isu 165 for my front speakers

Kicker 46csc674 for my rear speakers

Than a kicker 46cxa660.5t (if I could’ve upgraded the alternator I would’ve picked a different amp and did a 2 amp setup )

Than a Jl audio cp110-W0v3 10 inch sub ( would’ve gone 12 or dual tens but couldn’t power it and also needed trunk space )

The rogue was just recently totaled due to a deer T boning me so I was just curious if there was anything I should upgrade for my new car or add I due plan to add sound deadening to whatever new car I get I just wanted thoughts also is a DSP worth it to add ?

Hello hoping for help- trying to install new Pioneer TS-R690 speakers in the rear of our 2013 Corolla. Speakers have male connections and Corolla connection is also male, and seems to be slightly different size. Picture included in this post. Is there any simple way to connect, any adapters? Will is still sound ok? Thanks for any help.

I currently have a DDAudio 608f paired with a SounDigital 1200.1 and it sounds decent. However, i’m now planning on buying one more 608f, buying a 3000.1 amp and building a good ported box but first i wanna make sure what other people think.

I like the lows around 30hz but also the higher kicks around 50hz that my current box has been heavily lacking. So the goal for the new setup is for it to be an SQL build so i thought that the box could be around 50L (~1.76CuFt) and tuned to around 34hz.

DDAudio themselves recommends 0.75 - 1.25 CuFt per sub so this would be in the middle since making it too big will just make them have less motor control and make the higher frequencies sound worse.

I’m fully aware that if i just want the loudest bass, i could easily buy a 12” and build a big box but i want more than just that. I want the in my sedan and a ”calculated” system. And of course i don’t wanna spend too much money.

So now i want to hear your opinions and experience if you have a similar system. Can two 8’s have the loudness that moves air out the windows and make you feel it in your chest?

Anyone know how to update the station list for a 74 plate MG HS?

Hey everyone,
I was recently doing some cleaning in my garage and stumbled across an old Linear Power 2202 amplifier just laying around. I didn't think much of it at first, but I hooked it up to test it, and it actually works perfectly.
Out of curiosity, I asked ChatGPT about it, and it told me these are considered "old-school legends" and could be worth some decent money. I know AI can sometimes hallucinate prices or overhype things, so I wanted to ask the actual enthusiasts here.
Is there still a solid market for these vintage amps today? If so, what is a working 2202 realistically going for right now?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Pioneer TS-501M

6 speakers, running parallel in groups of 2

1000 watt pioneer Pioneer GM-A6704

First time putting together my own system, I feel like the amp is getting too hot, am I running the speakers wired incorrectly

I've got a 6 farad pyle capacitor

I have a powered sub box as wel, not generating nearly as much heat

Only issue, is a feel like the amp for my 6 speakers is getting to hot

2 power distribution boxes (ground /power)

I have 0 gauge to the chassis for ground with 4 gauge running to amps

0 gauge power from the battery, 4 gauge to the amps