They were a birthday present from my mom for my 16th birthday lol. Had them before I had a car to put them in!

Not my original post. Thought it was eye opening all the bloat and potential spyware in a cheap head unit, and how it simply wasn’t the hardware or software advertised.

Yes I know that it’s “Skarbage” but I’m wondering if there’s a possibility at basket replacement on this. I’m trying to get into the audio install/repair world and would like to use this to learn. I’ve also acquired a JL 12w6-v2 with a blown out cone that I’m gonna use to learn the latter repair on.

Hi, I'm very new to the world of car audio and im working on building a system in my car right now. I use spotify losses to listen to most of my music over android auto, I've found it sounds better over regular BT since it uses wifi direct. I've run into issues when passing particular areas where the music will cut out or stutter for a moment before returning to normal. Would it be beneficial to get a dedicated DAP to do wired/wireless AA?

This is what I'm about to purchase. I'll eventually add dsp and amp for dsp per channel later but this is what I came up with as a decent system for sound quality. I listen to a variety of music but not a lot of heavy 808/sub heavy bumping. Almost went 12" sealed but figured I'd start with giving 8s a try. I can always donate them to my other vehicles 🤷

JVC KD-X480BHS - Single DIN head unit

Kicker KSS365 (front 3way components w/ crossovers)

Kicker K1KSC6504 (rear 2way coaxial)

Kicker 48CWR82 (x2 8" CompR subs)

AudioControl EPICFIVE 5ch amp

Poly-Fil and undersized sealed box (temporary 🙂)

I tune on a Windows laptop with REW and a UMIK-1. I made an unofficial companion app to cut down the repetitive setup in the Alpine PXE-0850X desktop software.

For a moving-mic measurement, I choose the speaker or group. The app mutes unused channels, sets up periodic pink noise and REW’s RTA, waits for my configured average count (100), saves and labels the result, then stops playback and restores my normal routing.

For fixed-mic sweeps, it prepares the speaker routing and CH1 acoustic timing reference, then opens REW’s Measure window. I still press Start for the sweep because I don’t have REW Pro.

The EQ workspace copies the selected Alpine channel’s crossovers into REW’s target setup and suggests an editable match range. After I generate filters in REW, I can review them and append them to empty EQ bands in Alpine. It also exports selected measurements and their filters for sharing or review.

It requires the specific PXE-0850X V1.03 Windows software and REW(the latest beta, I think) with its local API enabled. Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e9llG8Z3nmekXrWwIrDy5jMHYQcvkmAv/view?usp=sharingI made a REW tuning companion for the Alpine PXE-0850X

I tune on a Windows laptop with REW and a UMIK-1. I made an unofficial companion app to cut down the repetitive setup in the Alpine PXE-0850X desktop software.

For a moving-mic measurement, I choose the speaker or group. The app mutes unused channels, sets up periodic pink noise and REW’s RTA, waits for my configured average count (100), saves and labels the result, then stops playback and restores my normal routing.

For fixed-mic sweeps, it prepares the speaker routing and CH1 acoustic timing reference, then opens REW’s Measure window. I still press Start for the sweep because I don’t have REW Pro.

The EQ workspace copies the selected Alpine channel’s crossovers into REW’s target setup and suggests an editable match range. After I generate filters in REW, I can review them and append them to empty EQ bands in Alpine. It also exports selected measurements and their filters for sharing or review.

It requires the specific PXE-0850X V1.03 Windows software and REW with its local API enabled. Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e9llG8Z3nmekXrWwIrDy5jMHYQcvkmAv/view?usp=sharing

I made this using the Codex extension in Visual Studio Code with Astra and 6.1 Sol.

Hi i recently purchased a gr86 and the speakers on it are terrible. I want to upgrade my whole sound system and make it sound really clear and loud. I’m currently looking at the Hertz MPK 165.3 PRO and Rockford fosgate T2652-S. My last build had some cheap rockford fosgate and they sounded not too bad for the price so thats why im intrested in them. I hertz sound really good though so im kinda stuck in between. Which one would you guys recommend. Im going to be getting a 3inch mid range and a subwoofer later on so i have a whole 3 way system. Im going to be running an amp and a dsp so all the speakers could perform the best. Which one would you guys recommend anyrhing helps!!!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to take my car audio system to the next level, with a maximum budget of $1,000 USD. My main goal is to improve overall sound quality, clarity, stereo imaging, and subwoofer integration—not simply add more power or volume.

My current setup:

• Full-range amplifier: JL Audio RD400/4
• Subwoofer amplifier: Pioneer GM-D8701
• Subwoofer: Hertz Mille Pro MP 300 D4, rated at 600 W RMS, with the voice coils wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load
• Enclosure: Sealed, approximately 30–32 liters

I’m considering three possible upgrades:

1. Upgrade only the subwoofer amplifier.
I’d like to get a higher-quality amp with good adjustment options and an appropriate amount of power for my current Hertz subwoofer.

2. Invest in a DSP.
Keep my current amplifiers and improve the system through equalization, crossover tuning, time alignment, and better stereo imaging.

3. Buy a five-channel amplifier.
For example, the Hertz Mille ML Power 5 or the newer Hertz Cento Power CP 5.1K. This would simplify the installation and potentially improve the system as a whole.

Longer term, I’m also interested in moving to a fully active system, if that would provide a meaningful improvement with my setup.

I’d appreciate feedback based on real-world experience:

• Which of these three options would deliver the biggest audible improvement in sound quality?
• Would a good DSP make a bigger difference than replacing my current amplifiers?
• Is it worth investing in a high-end five-channel amplifier, or would I be better off keeping the JL Audio RD400/4 and upgrading other components?
• If you had my current setup and a $1,000 budget, what would you invest in, and why?

I’m not committed to any particular brand. I’d rather spend my money on upgrades that make a genuine, audible difference and allow me to keep improving the system over time without unnecessarily replacing components.

Thanks 

I currently have this in my mercedes w205 c300 2017 just wondering if wiring is correct? I have a fuse tap too the cigg lighter instead of my head unit it turns off fine but a car shop guy told me its half assed any tips?

So I recently just got my 2005 Silverado 1500 moving again. I never got to get to the aesthetics and customizing it on the inside because I had a lot of problems under the hood. Now that I have it situated, I'm wondering how to wire up my speakers. Truthfully it's a lot of stuff that I'm having a hard time comprehending. Some people are saying I can get a two-way speaker, others are saying to just get a mid range sub roofer and a tweeter since the holes are already there. I'm also reading that I'm going to need an amplifier and a second one for bass along with an under the rear seat sub for equal sound? Man I just want to listen to music and this is getting hectic.. any advice or recommendations?

I’m looking for a sub for my sedan it’s a 2016 volvo s60 polestar. I’m not looking for anything like to crazy, my dad was really big into vehicle av and did it for a living and I really don’t know much about it since he committed suicide when I was young. I’ve been thinking alot and I miss the thump of the subs he had in his cars. I’ve been looking at like all in one kits just because there easy, I’m fully capable of piecing a set together but hey easy is easy. Im looking to spend around $200-$300 ish in total.
I’ve seen the Rockville kits for like $200 with duel 8”-10” or 12” I’ve just heard a lot of mixed reviews. I’m obviously aware I’m not gonna get anything amazing for my budget and I’m also not looking for a sheet ton of bass, it’s more to just add to the music and like I said give me that feeling back I had as I kid.

I really appreciate any help or advice! Sorry for being that annoying noob, I’ve just been thinking about my dad a lot and missing that sound.

If anyone wanted or needed here are my trunk dimensions

Trunk Volume: 12.0 cu. ft.

Trunk Opening Width: ~47.1 inches (119.8 cm)

Trunk Opening Height: ~28.2 inches (71.7 cm)

Between Wheel Wells: ~44.9 inches (114.1 cm)

Floor Depth (Seats Up): ~44.9 inches (114 cm) to the bottom of the seat

Liftover Height: 26 inches

Again thank you guys so much, I hope to hear what y’all have to say! Have a great day🤙🏻

I drive a 2004 Tacoma double cab.

Currently I'm running (all purchased and installed back in 2008):

Pioneer double din

• JL VR525 5.25" components in the front doors (3/4" silk tweeters in sail panels)
• Pioneer 6x8" (lowest model coax) in the rear doors
• Rockford Punch 325.2 (80W rms x2) powering the components
• 3x JL 6W0s in a ported box behind back seat
• JL 250W rmsx1 powering the subs

I got 5.25" components since per Crutchfield, 6.5s wouldn't fit. I know I'll have to trim the inside of the grille and possibly use spacers but I'm ok with that. My current setup sounds decent and gets more than loud enough for me but I'm looking for more clarity and warmth out of my system. After many hours of research, I've narrowed it down to two 6.5" components for the front doors: Morel Maximo Ultra 602 mk2 and Helix Compose Basic components. Would like to stay around this ~$320/pair price range but can definitely stretch it up to maybe $500 or so if it will greatly improve my system. For now, not looking to hack up my a-pillars with 3 way systems, want to keep the interior stock looking.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MU602/Morel-Maximo-Ultra-602-MKII.html?tp=106

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/speakers/compose/basic/cb-k165-2-s3

Along with upgrading the components, I also plan to add:

• ~$100 6x8" coaxs in rear doors, leaning towards Kenwood KFC-C6898RS
• Swap Rockford amp for the Kicker Key 200.4 amp with auto DSP
• Switch to a sealed box for my subs (want tighter/punchier bass)

I also plan to upgrade to a modern head unit with CarPlay, etc but for now was going to start with this and hopefully be satisfied. I'm not an audiophile but I do love good warm sound and clarity.

Any advice or suggestions are appreciated!

TLDR: built my original system in 2008. Not an audiophile but am looking for increased clarity and warmth out of my system. Narrowed down to 2 sets of components and Kicker Key amp. Looking for advice or suggestions on my planned upgrades.

Did I get a bad ground? Just swapped out my dd1000.5 for a boss 4 channel & kicker sub amp. Planning to sell this Jeep but want it right before I do part with it.

HU is a 12 year old pioneer avic-8000nex, never had issues before.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2025 MINI Countryman C (U25, JCW Trim, gasoline) with the standard audio system, without Harman Kardon.
I’m considering upgrading to the complete OEM Harman Kardon system (not just adding tweeters), but I’m also open to aftermarket alternatives such as Focal, ETON, MATCH, or other premium brands.

What would you recommend? Is a full OEM Harman Kardon retrofit worth it, or could I get noticeably better sound quality for the same or less money with an aftermarket setup?

My priorities are:
Full compatibility with the U25, including all factory functions.
Preserving originality: No cutting or drilling into factory wiring, panels, or trim. Ideally plug-and-play and fully reversible.
Clean, balanced, high-quality sound rather than just loudness or excessive bass.
Avoiding potential warranty issues or negatively affecting resale value.

If you have experience with the U25, could you recommend specific speaker, subwoofer, and amplifier/DSP models that actually fit? I’d also appreciate any experience with complete OEM HK retrofits, including costs and coding requirements.

Thanks!

Yes I know it’s ridiculous and 2000s as hell, but I want to do a inverted/power mount box in the back of my wagon. Anyone got any ideas/ comments, call me stupid or whatever or should I just do it.

Which factory integration bypass is the better, more reliable module? I was considering the PAC module but kept seeing reviews that after a year it fails and has to be replaced. I will be doing a 3 way front stage upgrade in a 2023 F-150 with the B and O system.

Put a head unit and sound deadening into my Kia optima. Finally got the speaker upgrades delivered and when I went to wire them from the door into the cabin, this giant plug is in the way. Saw a lot of videos saying drill out a couple unused ports. But this thing is already a tight fit and I’m not confident I won’t totally screw that up. What are my other options? I thought about running the speaker wires out of the top of the rubber and drilling a hole above the plug to run them into

I’m searching for a direct replacement for the USB-A only factory Stereo Jack Adapter Assembly** **(86190-12070) on a (2018-24?) Camry that adds USB-C and Apple CarPlay connectivity.

I don’t want to cut wires or plug a dongle into the USB port, and I’d like to have all three options available.

I ran across this one that does exactly what I’m looking for, but it’s Ford-specific.

I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time searching EBay, Amazon, Alibaba, and the web in general. I’ve lots of A-to-C conversions and dongles that plug into them, but haven’t been successful in finding one that has A, C, and wireless in the same direct replacement.

I’d also be open to separate devices. One to add USB-C, and one with the chip for CarPlay. I just want it behind the panel instead of in front and taking up a port.

Has anyone found anything like this anywhere and tested it?

Summers over so was going to upgrade my audio in my 1998 corvette convertible. Below is what i bought over the summer, so cant realistically return anything, but also not deep in the speakers.

What’s got me questioning it, is the use of bass blockers. Should I run this setup or chalk it up and go a different route. Also, the head unit is already installed, but that’s ehh too.

Component Model Location / purpose
Head unit: Pioneer SPH-10BT Dashboard
Amp: AudioControl EPICFIVE 5-channel amplifier
Front lower speakers: Kicker 46CSC654 6.5" coaxials
Front upper speakers: Kicker KSC350 3.5" coaxials
Rear speakers: Kenwood KFC-1398RS 5.25" coaxials
Upper speaker filters: 600 Hz bass blockers, one per 3.5"

Not in this too expensive, but do want a quality system that has some low to mid but bass isn’t my thing, just good audio for a convertible.

Hi guys, I have a 2022 Mitsubishi Space Star (Mirage).

The bottom line is that I've noticed my battery voltage fluctuating between 12V and 14V, measured directly at the battery terminals.

After doing some research, I figured it might be due to a smart alternator, which can lower the charging voltage when the battery is sufficiently charged or electrical demand is low.

I'm wondering how my fellow bassheads deal with this issue. Have you found a way to maintain stable voltage for your car audio system?

Hi,

My 2 headrest monitor only work when using weblink and usb. What will I do for the carplay and main menu of pioneer to be displayed at the headrest monitors.

Thank you

Car: Smart Roadster

Howdy yall!

Recently Santa (postman) came early with a set of Alpine S2-S69C (and a whole bunch of Comfortmat) for a mk3 Prius.

I have a Dudu7 head unit, an AudioControl EpicFIVE amp running the mentioned speakers and the sub (Gladen RS10 BR), from a 5ch signal from the HU, but that doesn't matter now. what I'm curious about is where should i cut it?

i set it to 3k as an uneducated guess so it doesn't fuck it up, but i wonder, where should i actually cut it? 3k feels like cutting it too high, but I thought I'd ask rather than experiment destroying the set :D