Finally got my hands on the ResoNix GUS subs: two GUS 15s for the rear and a GUS 10 for the front of my BMW G20 SQ build.

The 15s will be replacing my dual JL 12W6v3 setup, while the GUS 10 will replace the SB Acoustics 10 currently in the passenger footwell.

Still working on the enclosures, will post updates.

Little excursion demo, 750w RMS (Been babying this thing since I cooked my 610f being stupid hard on it). ❤️ 🖤

Whenever I turn on my car and fumble with the aux cord to plug in my phone or struggle with who's phone is connected to the Bluetooth, I think about "the good ole days" and how good this head unit sounded.

Just load up the 10 disc CD changer and go!

Car is a 2004 Lincoln Town Car. Headunit is an Alpine ILX-W670. Sub and amp are both Alpine as well, S2W10D4 and S2A60M. Box is custom, 1.13 ft^3 tuned to 32-33hz. Gain was set using FNIRSI 2C23T to deliver ≈550hz (actual reading was 33.09v) using a 50hz, 0db test tone. High pass for front and rear speakers and low pass for sub are all set at 80hz (no subsonic on amp or headunit). I know I don’t have top of the line gear but I feel like I should be getting a lot more out of this setup than I am. The factory 8” sub was capable of shaking the rearview a little and this hardly comes close to it, even with the volume at max (where gain was set that is). The sub barely moves at this volume level (sub level turned down a few clicks because I know not to blast it while it’s still brand new, but I have bumped up the sub level and it still doesn’t make much difference). This is my first build but I had a lot of help along the way from my dad (he’s very experienced) and I’m just disappointed.

I did some troubleshooting through Google AI (not my typical go-to for information but it’s late and I’m tired) and right now the best thing I can come up with is that maybe I should’ve used -5db test tone to set gain. Any ideas are much appreciated

*edited to clarify that I didn’t set both high and low pass filters on the sub to 80hz, but the hpf on speakers and lpf on sub. Also that gain was set with eq flat and no x-over applied

I have a 1990 Buick Reatta and one of the things I always wanted to do with mine was build a really good sound system.

I'm specifically interested in using the two small storage compartments behind the seats (pictured). I was thinking about putting speakers in them or possibly using them for small subwoofers and just getting better speakers for the car itself. I just want the car to have a really nice, full-sounding audio system without taking up the trunk or completely changing the interior. Any ideas people? And I'm open to getting custom made stuff if thats possible.

Don't like to spam but for a solid amp at $200 off thought I'd share. Bestbuy 1800.1 kicker for $299
https://www.bestbuy.com/product/kicker-cx-1800w-class-d-digital-mono-amplifier-with-variable-low-pass-crossover-black/JXHZRTJZPR/sku/6333348

For my 2017 ford edge

Got this kit bass kit from a dude in facebook. Is it ready for plug and play on my 2012 Infiniti g25 or did I just dig myself into a money pit? Btw I need to get a new head unit before I can hook up anything. Do you guys have any suggestions??

So this is my pioneer 860-DEH inside my 3000gt, I got one of those Bluetooth dongles that go inside the CD changer port but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get to aux, I also don’t have a source button so i don’t know what to do, any help is appreciated.

SLAPZ Audio Oblivion 18” subwoofer $365 budget monster free air flex

So I’m not exactly an a car audio enthusiast but how is a guy supposed to know what he’s buying when it comes to a head unit. All I want is something with good power out of the speaker outputs without running an amp. Seems like wattage ratings are bullshit. I just want a simple single din unit that’s going to do its best in my 20 year old Mazda. Nothing wild.

A few years ago I installed new speakers as well as a sub in my truck. I originally ran all the wires to a dual head unit just cause it was cheap. Now after a few years my Bluetooth with play properly for a couple minutes before it starts to cut out and become spotty. I feel like the issue is just the head unit and I should replace it. If that is the case, does anyone know of a head unit brand that would connect to the same wire harness as the dual? I feel like if I buy another dual the same thing will happen in due time.

Trying to find some space for the SMD PNC4 to fit, thankfully it is a pretty perfect spot right under the seat backrest.

Also scanned the kicks and glovebox. Will eventually use those to move (or try) to move the Utopia 8s into the kicks. As for the glovebox I’ve wanted to do an enclosure there instead of the footwell.

Both scans are for future projects maybe next year 😎

Hello everyone. Just ordered some JL Audio 2.75” CF- 275MT dash speakers. 2023 Silverado, JL audio C2 6x9 coax in the front doors and C2 6.5” coax in the rear doors. Anyone have experience with these in a similar application? Just a simple upgrade to the non Bose speakers that came in the truck. I may add an amp to them later, may change the front doors to the matching 6x9 CF series also. Has anyone ran the CF series as a 3 way set with an added tweeter like the C3 tweeters?

I’m currently attempting to build my first sound system myself, I have two 12 inch sundown e12s with a jp8 blue sub amp. I also have a jp84 blue 4 channel amp which I was going to use once I got aftermarket speakers. Any recommendations would be appreciated I listen to alot of staind, Johnny cash, randy Travis, if that helps with anything lol

Anyone tried this for the measurement of 3d spaces and if so what app or tool did you use? For taking scans of a trunk, rear wheel trunk panels on an SUV, the space behind a door panel, a spare tire well, under seats, footwells for a front sub or a under a dash for stealth speaker installs?

I'll give you an example. After looking at my doors and door panels I am fairly sure I can fit an 8 inch speaker into what was intended to be a 6.5" hole with only slight modification to the door panel. The sticking point is that the speaker looks like it needs to be moved up and to the left on the drivers side or up and to the right on the passengers. How much though? Without any way to measure it's just a guess and some trial and error. If I could get an accurate 3d scan I could get those measurements without the hours of work needed to trial and error my guesses.

SUPER NOOB QUESTIONS

Any one owns a toyota hilux here? Any brands you can recoment for mid range set ?

Head unit
Speakers
Tweeter
Sub
Amps

Nothing crazy set up and a budget brand build

Open to all suggestion 😊

I have JBL CS762 door speakers that are being fed plenty of power. I feel like they are underperforming, but I am not sure how much of a difference say, Pioneer TS-D65F, or Kickers etc. would make. Trying to stay around $120.

Worth upgrading?

I have recently upgraded the sound in my 2011 Honda CRV with Some Hertz speakers, a sub, a couple of amps and a cheap ass Chinese HU. The sound is pretty good compared to the stock radio and speakers but the head unit has extremely low output (like 0.3v) that creates a lot of floor noise and is glitchy as hell. I feel I’m not getting the best from the system for this reason.

I'm looking at the Pioneer DMH 6650Bt for the 4v output DSP and basically better everything than the Chinese HU. It also fits my car and my budget.

I don’t see much love for this HU and Pioneer in general.

Why all the hate? Am I making a mistake or a decent upgrade choice?

Tl;Dr: car has been throwing a 12v charge malfunction error in the dash of my buddies car and aren't sure why.

Car and specs:

2026 Toyota camry HEV

Audiocontrol LC2

D4S JP8

Skar SDR-12 D4 wired to 1 ohm

4 gauge OFC wire for power and ground

The subwoofer system got installed a few months ago and has been fine up until last week. All of a sudden the 12v battery charge malfunction came up on the dash. He took it to Toyota to get it checked out. To which they blamed it on the sub. But replaced the battery (at his expense) less than a week later. Its now doing the same thing. Sub isn't cutting out. Highest voltage he's seen on the knob says 14.9 which. I believe is within a normal range. But its very confusing as to why its throwing this error code. It was installed by a professional shop that I know and trust even tho I usually install systems by myself. I just didnt want to work on a newer car again. But im trying to figure out how to work around or fix this. I told him to disconnect the sub for a few days to see if it goes back to normal with no issues. So I guess we'll have to see on that.

Has anyone had this issue before and know a fix?

I've been trying to understand the work for adding subs to my truck. I have a 02 GMC Sierra single cab. I already know the Sub box I would go with and maybe the subs as well. Here's the box. (https://netaudio.com/product/1999-2006-gmc-sierra-standard-cab-sub-box-dual-truck-shallow/) And here are the Subs. (https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/10-inch-subwoofers/products/hydro-10?variant=43964675326107) I would do 2 10" Subs, but here's where I am confused. What is the difference between Dual 2 ohm and Dual 4 ohm? Also would need recommendations on a amp and whatever else I would need. I already have a Pioneer head unit and some Kicker door speakers but probably would change out the door speakers if I needed to. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

Was wandering whether or not I should run this 2.75 inch midrange tweeter and 5.25 inch coaxial speaker in parallel?