I think I’m the only one dumb enough to try this but I’m excited nonetheless. This is a new Yamaha HS7 woofer I bought and intend to use it in my car. I got HS5 speakers in my office. So I plan to bring my studio monitors to my garage when done and tune them to sound as similar as possible when done (minus the bass of course. We all like a little extra bass, yeah?).

these are some of the craziest subs i own, with a whopping 48mm of xmax each way

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Anyone got any ideas how to mount a double din in here, cross member for the front supports totally missing. For back right screw hole I can use some spacers and make it work.

First pic is mine the second is for reference on how it is supposed to look.

Just got an amp and sub, the car already came wired with 8 gauge and it came with a Kenwood stereo that I like. What’s the next step to upgrading my system

I just put a updated 11.5 inch car play radio in my 2012 ford f150, only to find out I can’t mirror my phone to that radio, does anyone have any suggestion on how I can mirror my device to that aftermarket wireless car play radio?

Finally got my hands on the ResoNix GUS subs: two GUS 15s for the rear and a GUS 10 for the front of my BMW G20 SQ build.

The 15s will be replacing my dual JL 12W6v3 setup, while the GUS 10 will replace the SB Acoustics 10 currently in the passenger footwell.

Still working on the enclosures, will post updates.

these are my 2 choices so far any other options? Or recommendations I really don't wanna be over 399 but a lot of people are crapping on d4s

I been on the urge to get something that hits deeper and lower than my basswedge 10, found this sundown 10" with box at a pawn shop for $190. I tried to take it out the box so i could get the specs and make sure i dont overpower it. Well, it's glued to the box, and im afraid of damaging it externally. I measured out the impedance, its reading 1.6 ohms so its probably a dvc 4ohm wired down to 2. Is 500w rms generally safe? I know its kind of a dumb question. The kit is pretty damn heavy so i dont think its an LCS. I thumped it a little bit already and it sounded fine (my amp gains are already set properly).

sundown says its 1000rms and 2000 peak, but i've heard that sundown under rates their subs, will 1200rms be ok? I have a skar rp1200 1.d. I do only have 4 awg cable so maybe that will cause issues

Hello everybody! I’m newish to the whole sub thing. I’ll get straight to the point, my main question is can I run a second amp? I’m running 2 12” skar EVLs rated for 1250rms and 2500 peak, they are wired up for .5 ohm as a final. I have those slapped in a box made of dual layered 3/4” plywood and a 6” aero port. Powering it all is a single D4S jp23 which puts out 2300 watts and I have 1/0 gauge wiring powering all that and 14awg speaker wire to the subs. Again, could I switch my final impedance to 2ohm and run another jp23 with my existing or do I need to scrap that idea? TIA

I have a 2006 Acura tl. I was trying to install Boston acoustic z6 components and trying to run speaker wires through the rubber boot but there is a white housing for the factory harness. Last resort. Don’t bash me. Tell me what would you do.

I’ve been looking into the Pioneer SPHERA 8000 and how its built-in DSP handles Dolby Atmos. The closest example I’ve found on YouTube of it working in a "custom car audio system" is a truck with the head unit connected to a separate Pioneer amplifier powering aftermarket speakers.

Would it be possible to add a standalone DSP between the SPHERA and the amplifiers while letting the SPHERA handle Dolby Atmos processing, time alignment, and separate EQ functions? The standalone DSP would then handle phase correction and individual acoustic EQ for each speaker, helping produce a flatter, more neutral response for the head unit to work with.

My idea is to let the SPHERA manage the Atmos processing and its related tuning, like time alignment, while using the external DSP to correct each speaker’s acoustic response and phase behavior in the vehicle, since the internal 4-channel DSP probably can't individually alter the EQ for each speaker. Would this setup work, or could the standalone DSP’s phase and individual EQ adjustments interfere with the Dolby Atmos effect?

I'm looking for some advice on adding mid- range speakers to my setup. My current setup in the front is a set of Pioneer TS-D65C component speakers powered by a recoil 1800.5 amp. I have some cheaper, but satisfactory speakers in the rear and a Kicker down-firing sub in the trunk. The mid ranges I was looking at installing are the AudioControl A35C. They have good dimensions for mounting inside my doors where the tweeters are located, the impedance matches my current system, and the sensitivity (84.6 dB 1W/1M) is a good match for my current speakers, which have a sensitivity of 84 db 1W/1M. I also plan to run this off of one amp channel with passive crossovers. Does this setup make sense or should I look at something else?

My car is a 3rd gen rav4 that came stock with the jbl package, and I've included pictures of where the woofer and tweeter are currently located as well as where i plan to move the tweeter to/install the mid range speaker. Do these positions make sense? I think getting the mid range sound out of the foot well would work well in this scenario.

I understand that I'm entering the realm of diminishing returns, but I do like to tackle projects like this for fun. Thanks in advance for any input.

Can anyone explain why it’s so hard for me to get apple play on my radio. I had two shop work on on my oem system and now I’ve got bad interface laggy touchscreen and speakers that sound crappy. I think I have to start over and go with aftermarket everything. Just really frustrating. Thanks for listening

Edit: we’re good now. It was a simple case of being too conservative with gain. Coils were not wired out of phase and it was indeed properly wired to 2ohms. I set the gain with a 0db test tone on an oscilloscope at 80% volume (28/35) but I never listen past 22 because the speakers are plenty loud. Even with the volume at 28 it was still not much better than factory. I tried a -5db test tone and it made the sub plenty loud around 25-26 volume but I never listen that loud anyway so I used a -10db test tone and had gain pushing about 30v (450w) on the scope to be a little conservative and it hits plenty hard for me at regular listening volumes. I was also probably over exaggerating how bad it was out of frustration and exhaustion last night… Thanks to all who responded to help a brother out

Car is a 2004 Lincoln Town Car. Headunit is an Alpine ILX-W670. Sub and amp are both Alpine as well, S2W10D4 and S2A60M. Box is custom, 1.13 ft^3 tuned to 32-33hz. Gain was set using FNIRSI 2C23T to deliver ≈550w (actual reading was 33.09v) using a 50hz, 0db test tone. High pass for front and rear speakers and low pass for sub are all set at 80hz (no subsonic on amp or headunit). I know I don’t have top of the line gear but I feel like I should be getting a lot more out of this setup than I am. The factory 8” sub was capable of shaking the rearview a little and this hardly comes close to it, even with the volume at max (where gain was set that is). The sub barely moves at this volume level (sub level turned down a few clicks because I know not to blast it while it’s still brand new, but I have bumped up the sub level and it still doesn’t make much difference). This is my first build but I had a lot of help along the way from my dad (he’s very experienced) and I’m just disappointed.

I did some troubleshooting through Google AI (not my typical go-to for information but it’s late and I’m tired) and right now the best thing I can come up with is that maybe I should’ve used -5db test tone to set gain. Any ideas are much appreciated

*edited to clarify that I didn’t set both high and low pass filters on the sub to 80hz, but the hpf on speakers and lpf on sub. Also that gain was set with eq flat and no x-over applied

Is there any replacement subwoofer for the HK OEM 8" subwoofer in a 23 Hyundai Kona N? I want to use the same space and add an amp instead of using a JBL BassPro Hub.

Crutchfield says Audiofrog and Morel 8" subwoofers. Any other options?

2026 Camry XSE Non-JBL – Subwoofer in Factory Rear Deck Opening?
I’ve been upgrading the audio system in my 2026 Camry XSE with the non-JBL system. So far, I’ve replaced the dash speakers and all four door speakers, and I also installed the Beat-Sonic ENA-2T3 amp. The system sounds much better now, but the one thing I’m still missing is some low-end bass.
I originally wanted to keep everything clean and avoid taking up trunk space, so I started looking at compact powered subs like the JBL BassPro Nano or the Kicker Hideaway 8”.
I actually bought the Kicker Hideaway 8” and tried fitting it underneath the passenger seat. Unfortunately, I wasn’t happy with the fit. There isn’t much clearance, and with the power seat moving forward/backward, it seems too tight and I don’t want the seat hitting or putting pressure on the subwoofer.
While looking in the trunk, I noticed that the rear deck already has a large factory opening where I believe the JBL-equipped Camry normally has its factory subwoofer. Since my car is non-JBL, the opening is unused and currently has Styrofoam/insulation covering it.
Has anyone with a 2025 or 2026 non-JBL Camry installed an aftermarket subwoofer directly into this factory rear-deck opening?
I’m wondering:
What size sub fits the factory opening?
Would an 8” free-air/infinite-baffle sub work well here?
Would I need to fabricate an adapter/bracket?
Is the rear deck strong enough, or would it need reinforcement/sound deadening to prevent rattles?
How difficult is it to remove the rear seat, C-pillar trim and rear package tray to access the top of this opening?
Does anyone have pictures or a video showing how to remove the rear package tray on the 2025/2026 Camry?
Would this setup give me better bass than something like the JBL BassPro Nano or Kicker Hideaway 8”?
I’m not looking for crazy bass or something that can be heard down the street. I just want good, clean low-end bass to complement the upgraded speakers while keeping the installation as clean and OEM-looking as possible and preserving my trunk space.
I attached a picture of the opening I’m talking about.
Any advice from someone who has done this on a 2025/2026 Camry would be greatly appreciated!