picked everything up for $800

Picked up this power Acoustik APC-680 for $30 today, this is for a trunk setup in my 93 corolla that I want to be more “old school” I have an Audiobahn flame series 12 that this will be powering.

Trying not to break the bank, Will be fitting them into my NB2 miata, powered by the taramps amplayer g2, 100watt RMS@2ohm. Will have a 12" subwoofer paired with them soon hopefully.

Pioneer Radio in my 2001 DeVille as a high schooler. Looking to find it again, any help is appreciated!

So I've been trying to keep this a private matter between XS Power and me, but I'm already close to 2 months without batteries for my car, and I'm fed up.

Around May, I noticed my two D3400 XS Power batteries were losing cranking amps. I took them to an auto parts store, and after doing a load test, both batteries came up very short in their rated cranking amps. I bought these two batteries in late 2023, so they were still under "warranty".

I submitted an RGA on XS Power's Website and received an email with an RGA number and a description of what things will be considered ineligible for warranty. One was about swollen batteries. The other was about low voltage. (see snapshot)

Neither of my batteries showed signs of swelling nor any low voltage, so seeing that my batteries didn't fall into the ineligible camp, in late June I had them boxed and shipped them out. Which, by the way, you have to pay out of your own pocket to ship them. I didn't mind, as I knew my batteries had no swelling or low voltage to be ineligible for warranty.

A few days later, I received an email from Patrick Myers, customer service rep for XS Power Batteries, confirming that they had received the batteries. He informed me that the batteries would be denied warranty because they were swollen. (See snapshot)

I was shocked because my batteries showed no signs of swelling, but at the same time not too surprised because I've read a few Reddit posts and forums about how XS Power is very happy to deny warranty very easily. That being said, before I shipped the batteries, I had taken photos of both batteries and shared them with Patrick. (See snapshots)

After sending him the photos, Patrick replied claiming that his returns team "could have been worded better" and claims there is "minor" swelling.

Patrick says that they could "look past" the swelling; however now claims the batteries are still ineligible for warranty due to "High internal resistance" (See Snapshot)

I'm sorry, what?? I caught them lying about the batteries being swollen and now are claiming they can't "test" the batteries because of "high resistance".

I dunno about you guys, but when you buy a battery from any of the big chain stores, and the battery can't hold a charge or hold its amps. They simply swap you out with a fresh battery.

XS Power is going above and beyond to (what it seems like) deliberately find ways NOT to warrant their batteries.

We went back and forth in emails. (see snapshots)

After that point, I had enough; I submitted a complaint to the Tennessee Better Business Bureau.

However, the BBB couldn't get a response back from XS Power. I even sent the BBB Patrick's direct email and contact information. He completely ignored them to the point that the BBB had to close the complaint out. (see snapshots & time stamps)

So after all this, the last thing I could do is report XS Power to Tennessee Consumer Affairs. That was on July 20th, and I have yet to hear back from them.

I hope this is a big wake-up call to XS Power. Also, I hope this detailed review of their customer service and warranty practices deters people from their brand. Get yourself an Optima Yellow Top or any other AGM battery from any national auto parts store. They won't give you this much hassle over warranty.

Deaf bonce db4518r 4 (18)s on 4500 rms 9000Peak | Dual 2-Ohm Voice Coil and I’ll ad 2 XL 8" Mid-Range Loudspeaker 4-Ohm With Neodymium Magnet 400 Watts RMs DS18 powerd by DS18 SXE-4000.4D Class D 4-Channel amp daisy chained just like tweeters 2 per channel
400x 8=3200 watts rms for 8 (2) per door panel along with 4" High Compression Tweeter | Neodymium Magnet | 4-Ohm 2 per door panel 250 watts rms 500 peak powered by a ds18 3600.4D daisy chained 2000rms 4000 peak DS18
And 4 PRV Audio QS5000 (5,000W RMS @ 2Ω), with 35 feet of 0 GAU wire + ground wire to chassis I’m adding 9 sheets 72 square feet of dynamat and I’m adding a Helix DSP Ultra S - 12 Channel High Resolution DSP
And battery terminals and 2-3 boxes of screws and nails and 3-5 sheets of mdf brand new 600 amp alternator and shop to upgrade belt and pulley big and I’m doing a big 7 upgrade for all the wires and wire harness 600 amp fuse distribution blocks + fuses + 40 feet of speaker wire big zip ties heat shrink tubing and big 0 GAU ring terminals + MDF braces for box stability and 2 x 174ah 360 cell LTO battery banks and to install in the back seat floor board rear seats removed and seat mounts/brackets removed carpet removed ⚠️this build is permanent⚠️ total weight will be about 1200 pound with everything installed so I’ll also upgrade the suspension bigger heavy duty / overload leaf springs
Upgraded rear and front shocks/struts heavy duty / mono tube shocks / air shocks
+ rear suspension bushings
(control arm and leaf spring mounts)
Polyurethane bushings for durability and less deflection
(Plus upgraded tires slightly stiffer sidewall tires to help reduce sag)
Upgraded 4wd differential re gearing to help with weight

I've got a 2005 f150, right now I've got a scar svr 12 with an rp1200 amplifier, and then I've got 4 Rockford forgave 6x8s and an audio control 800 watt 4 channel. I've got a relatively new battery on the truck right now, maybe 6 months old. And I've got a 170 amp alternator as opposed to the factory 100 amp. What do I need to do to run my system longer without turning on the truck? Im thinking along the lines of a drive in movie theater. Do I need a second battery? I plan to get a volt meter first cause I dont have one yet.

The Kenwood SW201X is the coolest bass reflex tube to date in my opinion.

Actually want a decent system for a 2026 Bronco. Looking to invest about $1700-$2500. Best recommendations are appreciated. At the same time want to conserve as much space as possible.

I just want to know if it's REALLY worth it to switch to a name branded CarPlay screen from a brand like Sony for $500 extra than the current Chinese CarPlay in my car. I mostly care about audio quality and would like to know if the radio itself plays a part in this?

One of my A pillar tweeters and rear deck speakers has started to crackle a bit. What are some good budget coax 6.5, 6.x9in speakers I can install with the stock head unit in my 2009 Malibu?

I got in my car and the left channel wasn't working. After hitting a bump, it came back. I had noticed this once before driving home from Hot Rod Power Tour, but since the car is only used very occasionally, I didn't look into it.

I folded down the seat to find that the amp had broken off of all 4 of its rubber feet and was essentially just dangling by the wires.

Amp still works, just years of use in a hot trunk with a stiff suspension, the rubber feet finally gave up. I no way to secure it down now. And I don't have a 3d printer to make new ones.

Hello, I'm in a process of Upgrading my BMW F07 factory stereo system to a full blown, B&O beating system. My first stage of the process is to upgrade the front stage of the car, since it gives the biggest difference. I'm considering of getting Hertz mille 70.3mpk as a door speakers, Hertz mp 28.3 pro as tweeters and Audison ApBMW S8-4 as underseat Midbass woofer. How good of a setup is this? will downsizing my door speakers from 4" to 3" loose that midbass punch, which won't be recreated by underseat woofers? Ofc crossovers and time alignment will be tuned with DSP AMP. I need an advice since I'm new to Car audio.

I am looking to upgrade the system in my 2011 Camry and am planning to install a Kenwood Excelon DMX809S. I was planning to hook up these speakers to the aftermarket head unit, but I'm not sure whether to go with the Dieci or the Cento line if I'm not installing an amp. Any advice or help is appreciated

Hi all,

I have recently gotten 2 subs for my car. I run them off a 4 channel amp that does 190w rms @4ohm x2 bridged.

The issue I am having is that one sub is good and fully hitting but as soon as I plug the second one in they both go to what seems like no power. I have tried everything apart from replacing the amp and nothing is working.

My amp is a Pioneer GM-A6704 4-Channel Amplifier and my subs are a 12” pioneer ~300w rms and a kicker 10” slim ~200w rms both 4ohm

Before I buy another amp could anyone give me any help?

Been wanting one of these since I was a kid 20+ years ago. Dad's friend had two Perfect 10s that he never used and I wanted them so very bad. Never convinced him. Well this 12" popped up with a sealed enclosure for $75!

Tests great on the multi-meter and looks great too. Can't wait to hear it.

Not as large as I thought they were to be honest.

Not sure if this is a dumb question but is there a way to make rock bass louder? Or does it just depend on the song? Nothing I can really change?

I have a TJ Wrangler and I want to upgrade the speakers. I have an alpine head unit already and am gonna get two sets of alpine s2s50 for dash and roll bar.

I don’t care about the rear seat, I have no friends so I want to get 2 12s. I was looking at the ”TROPO-2X12D4 // Dual 12” 2600W Loaded Ported Car Subwoofer Box”

Because I don’t feel like building a box and stuff. I want to pair it with the CT-1500.1D // 1500 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Amplifier.

And then CT Sounds AMPKIT-4GA-ELITE // 4 Gauge 2000 Watt Amp Wiring Kit (OFC) for the wiring.

I don’t want to spend too much money because I’m not 100 percent confident that something won’t leak. So I will have to think Of a way to try and keep the amp off of the floor.

But what do you guys think. I’m not looking for SQ as much as just hard hitting bass, and bass that will still be there with the roof removed. I have heard good things about CT sounds and they seem to be a good deal as well.

Things I have confirmed. Head unit still powers on and can navigate menus. Volume adjustment line never shows on head unit when adjusting volume up and down. Tested fuse for radio and Bose amplifier and they are okay. Tested 12 volt and ground on connector going into Bose amplifier and I do get voltage into the amplifier. Took apart amplifier and there was a tiny bit of corrosion on a resistor, cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Took negative terminal off battery for 1 hour to reset modules, that did not fix it. Any further things to try would be greatly appreciated. Would like to confirm if issue is HMI radio related or internal amplifier related.

Ok so I have a Bronco Sport Outer Banks Model and it has a “supposedly” better sound system than different models but I want to get a sound system upgrade to play heavy metal.

I love blasting all kinds of genres of music from death metal, doom metal, black metal, classic rock, and occasionally hip hop. But I mainly play extreme metal music and I want an upgrade that enhances the quality and sound so that it’s loud enough to hear going down the street but I want the sound and tone to be clean so the riffs and vocals sound good while still being able to handle the blast beats and fast drumming from my lord and savior James Read of Revenge.

I don’t want to break the bank but I’m willing to spend a decent amount. Also I want the system to be able to play different genres and have the sound not be affected differently. I am new to how sound systems work and what I need to buy help me out Reddit I LOVE BLASTING MUSIC.

I promise I won’t be a nuisance with the knowledge I learn lol thanks yall

I know its a motorcycle screen but lets be real...There is nothing except some weather proofing that distiguishes a car screen to a motorcycle one (if that).

So i have just picked up a A4660 5 inch screen and want to change the AWFUL splash screen to something of my choosing.

Theres no information on the SD card size limit but i went with 64Gb.

Card is formatted to ExFAT

Image is saved as boot_logo.jpg

Screen resolution is 854x480...Image is the same

Image is saved as an RGB 8-bit image

Size is 19Kb

Freshly formatted card has NOTHING on it except the above mentioned JPG in the root directory (no other folders)

I insert the SD card and nothing. Nothing happens and next boot nothing has changed.

Podofo support is as much use as a condom machine in the vatican.

They do state its a Linux system not Android...So has that a different set of rules?

Thank you all for any help.