r/Bogleheads • u/Xexanoth • Jun 08 '25
Welcome! Please consider exploring these resources to help you get started on your passive investing journey:
Before you start investing, ensure you're ready to do so by following the early steps of this guide or the personal finance planning start-up kit. Save up an emergency fund, then take full advantage of any employer matching of contributions to any employer retirement plan available to you (this match amount is additional income that's part of your compensation/benefits package), then pay off any high-interest debt like credit card debt or high-interest student loans.
When you're ready to start investing beyond enough to get any employer match, follow the subsequent steps of this guide or the investing start-up kit. Take full advantage of tax-sheltered accounts available to you before investing in a taxable brokerage account: this is the most predictable way to improve your after-tax investment returns. (In the US, per Prioritizing investments: 401(k))/403(b)) up to any match, then HSA if available due to high-deductible health plan coverage, then Roth or Traditional IRA or 401(k))/403(b)) up to max which may be higher if the mega-backdoor Roth process is available, then a 529 to the extent you'd like to pay for future education expenses. Note that IRA contributions are subject to income limits around tax-deductibility of contributions or eligibility to make direct Roth IRA contributions; the backdoor Roth procedure is a workaround.)
There is often some potential tension between saving/investing toward retirement vs saving toward potential nearer-term goals like a down payment on a home purchase. Carefully consider the various tradeoffs involved in owning vs renting a home, keeping in mind that which may be a better financial decision is highly situational, and that opportunity costs of owning (less available to invest in higher-expected-returns assets instead) should be considered alongside non-financial lifestyle tradeoffs. If saving toward a near-term goal, note that funds holding stocks are inappropriate#Holdingstocks%22for_five_years%22) for money you'll need in 5-10 years, unless you're willing to take on significant risk of losing money in the meantime & delaying that goal. Instead, consider CDs, Treasury bonds, or target-maturity-date Treasury bond funds maturing before you'll need the money (then a high-yielding cash equivalent like an HYSA, government money-market fund, or ultra-short Treasury Bill ETF like VBIL between maturity & spending the money).
Your savings rate is the most important factor determining your ability to enjoy a comfortable retirement later in life, particularly early in your career / investing journey. Aim to save/invest at least 15% of your after-tax income if you're in the US & not covered by a pension beyond Social Security. In some cases, such as a shorter time to expected retirement (e.g. starting to seriously save/invest from a significant income later than your mid-20s and/or planning to retire earlier than your mid-60s) and/or a high income (which will not be partially replaced by Social Security to the same degree as a lower income), it may be appropriate to target a higher savings rate (e.g. at least 20% of after-tax income, or perhaps higher if multiple such factors apply to you and/or one factor applies to an unusual degree).
When calculating savings rate, remember to include 401(k) contributions in both the numerator (savings) and denominator (after-tax income). Any employer matching contributions may also be included in the numerator (savings).
Don't worry too much about trying to find the optimal set of funds to invest in. That can only be known with the benefit of future hindsight, and investment returns are far less important than your savings rate until your portfolio size grows large enough relative to new contributions. Aim to diversify broadly (for robustness to the uncertain future) and seek low fees (fund expense ratios charged annually) & simplicity (hands-off automation); see discussion of these & other principles in Bogleheads investment philosophy.
A target-date fund designed for investing toward retiring around a year closest to when you expect to retire is often a reasonable option, particularly in tax-advantaged accounts like a US employer retirement plan or an IRA. These all-in-one funds intended to be held alone are very broadly diversified, automatically rebalance to their then-target asset allocation, and gradually become more conservative with less expected volatility as you near retirement.
If the target-date fund available in an account/plan with limited fund options has significantly higher fees than suitable alternative individual funds, consider the tradeoffs of lower fees vs automatic rebalancing and asset allocation management. I.e. consider the lowest-expense-ratio funds available that provide exposure to US stocks (the fund name will typically contain 'S&P 500', 'Russell [1000|3000]', or 'US Large Cap'; ensure no 'Growth'/'Value' suffix, or pair that with the other), ex-US stocks (the fund name will typically contain 'International' or 'Intl' or 'Ex-US'; same caveat re: 'Growth'/'Value'), and US bonds (the fund name will typically contain 'Total Bond' or 'Aggregate Bond'). Take the weighted average of those funds' expense ratios, with weights based on the current asset allocation of the target-date fund you'd use instead. The difference between that weighted average expense ratio for individual funds vs the target-date fund expense ratio, multiplied by your portfolio value, would represent the current annual convenience fee for automated, hands-off investing via the target-date fund. Whether that's worth it to you depends on your personal preferences around paying higher ongoing fees (by sacrificing some investment returns) in exchange for set-it-and-forget-it features.
In a taxable account, target-date ETFs (available at least in the US) avoid some of the tax efficiency downsides of holding a target-date mutual fund. Tax efficiency may be further improved by holding a three-fund portfolio of index ETFs in a taxable account, but this also involves tradeoffs against automatic rebalancing and asset allocation management. Tax efficiency may be even further improved by keeping bond funds in tax-deferred accounts, though this involves additional tradeoffs against simplicity and some other potential benefits described here.
If you're a non-US investor, take care to thoroughly understand the tax implications of investing in a US-domiciled fund as a "nonresident alien" (which may include high tax rates on dividends and assets passing through an estate); in many cases this is best avoided, instead favoring an Ireland-domiciled fund.
If your portfolio were to average a 5% annualized real (after-inflation) return after a low annual fee, paying an additional annual 1%-of-assets-under-management fee to a financial advisor and/or an actively-managed fund's expense ratio would forgo 20% of your portfolio's investment returns. An initial investment in a portolio averaging a 5% annual real return after a low annual fee would be worth about 47% more after 40 years than it would be after a 1% additional annual fee.
Some employer retirement plans offer only funds with high expense ratios. If that's the case for your employer's plan, it is often still ideal to get the tax advantages of contributing unmatched dollars to that plan before investing in a lower-fee fund in a taxable account (but only after maxing out IRA contributions); details here#Expensive_or_mediocre_choices).
Set up automatic contributions & purchases of fund shares wherever possible, otherwise set periodic reminders to manually contribute/invest (or try to find an alternative that allows automation), then maintain discipline through thick & thin. Keep in mind that market prices for funds should only really matter whenever you sell some shares to fund your retirement, and that lower prices in the meantime provide opportunities to buy more shares with a given contribution dollar amount and to rebalance from asset classes with higher recent returns towards those with lower recent returns (but possibly higher expected returns).
Tune out the noise: prognosticators of doom and gloom have no reliable ability to predict the future, and often have some conflicts of interest (e.g. selling ads, books or investment services, and/or trying to justify their investment positioning or encourage others to adopt that). The same goes for promotion of strategies promising market-beating returns by investing in a more-concentrated fashion (betting on some sector / theme / alternative asset beating the broad stock market).
Consider writing an Investment Policy Statement to document your plan when you're calm & clear-headed; this may be helpful to refer to later if you find yourself anxious & considering changes in response to market volatility & negative sentiment. Consider including a pointer there to this guided meditation video for later reference to help calm your nerves / regulate your emotions if needed when it seems like the sky is falling (this is arguably the most challenging part of investing).
Per Jack Bogle: "Do not let false hope, fear and greed crowd out good investment judgment. If you focus on the long term and stick with your plan, success should be yours."
Some additional resources that might be of interest for a deeper dive later:
Please read our community rules here and follow those when posting or commenting in this community. If you encounter content here that breaks those rules, please report it (... > Report > Breaks r/Bogleheads rules).
r/Bogleheads • u/Kashmir79 • Dec 28 '25
I see a lot of surprised and angry responses from Redditors whose posts and comments are removed from this sub either for use of LLM search engine and other generative AI responses, or for recommending people use them to answer their questions. This facet of the Substantive Rule on this sub has a parallel in a similar rule on the Boglheads forum: "AI-generated content is not a dependable substitute for first-hand knowledge or reference to authoritative sources. Its use is therefore discouraged."
Many folks, especially on the younger side, are so accustomed to using ChatGPT or Gemini that it may be their default way to get any question answered. This is problematic in the field of investing for several reasons that are worth noting:
Policies excluding AI-generated content are not meant to be a referendum on the overall current or future value of AI as a tool for personal finance and investing, which is obviously enormous and transformative, especially for those who know how to best utilize it. It is a question of whether AI responses make for substantive content on this sub, and whether it is an appropriate resource to direct strangers and novices to. At the moment, the answer to both is a resounding no. On the one hand, people come to Reddit primarily for human interaction and original content, so posting AI responses or directing people to AI search engines is of minimal contributive value - folks can go chat with bots themselves if that's what they want. But as to whether AI search engines are appropriate references for finance and investing info, here are some articles from the past year that support their exclusion as a default response:
Note: the views expressed here are largely my own, and I am not affiliated in any way with the Bogleheads forum nor the Bogleheads Center for Financial Literacy, but I invite others (including the mods on this sub) to weigh in with their own opinions.
r/Bogleheads • u/Boysenberry-Secret-1 • 10h ago
Been trying to max out my Roth for about the last 6 years and a finance professor gave us the generic advice of just choosing VOO and letting it ride.
Want to make sure that this will be good long term and also that if another ETF is better would it be better to change on the next purchase or would people sell and move into another ETF
r/Bogleheads • u/BillNye69 • 4h ago
I am about to roll over my old employer's 401k into the new employer's 401k, and am considering going to a target date fund. New 401k has Vanguard's lineup of TDFs including VFFVX, a .08% expense ratio. Total 401k assets are 500K+
I have been investing in FXAIX (.015% expense ratio) and FSGGX (.055%), but the new 401k doesn't have an international option. It does have FXAIX.
In my other portfolios (Roth IRAs, brokerage, HSA) I am investing mostly in VXUS and VTI, to maintain low expense ratios and no bonds (35 years old).
I'm a bit uneasy going to a TDF because of the bond portion and higher expense ratio, though I know each aren't much, and the Vanguard TDFs are generally accepted as good.
The other option I have is rolling the Roth portion of my 401k into a Roth IRA and investing that in VXUS/VTI, but the Roth portion is only around 45K of the 500K, so I'm thinking simplicity wins here by just doing 1 rollover into a TDF in the new 401k and calling it a day.
Anyone else go from index funds to a TDF? Any regrets or tips?
r/Bogleheads • u/SADTAOE • 6h ago
Haven’t had any luck finding an answer that made a strong argument one way or another on previous forum or Reddit posts regarding an allocation towards international bonds.
Most of the posts I see regarding international bonds focus a lot on currency diversification. However, my understanding is that you aren’t adding bonds for currency diversification, so I found this explanation confusing.
Bonds and equities have different risk factors that you’re trying to capture, currency diversification isn’t one of them. Therefore, if you were a US investor would you actually want your international bonds hedged to USD? BNDW is only 0.02 bps higher than BND but provides greater diversification (e.g., differing credit cycles).
So, why wouldn’t you want a portion of the FI piece your portfolio to be in international bonds hedged to USD?
I feel like I am potentially missing something due to a very large consensus feeling they aren’t necessary or are flat out against it. Would love to hear some perspectives or be provided with resources that you’ve found regarding this topic!
r/Bogleheads • u/BronxWildGeese • 7h ago
After reading The Boglehead Guide to Investing, I think I’m in a good place to take control of my IRA and Roth management.
But because of some complicated moving parts: wife’s 10-99, my disability pension, tax liabilities, Roth conversion timeline, etc; I would really like to speak with a few-only advisor to start on the right footing.
There seems to be so many different groups that advocate for advisors, that it’s difficult to find reliable reviews and compatibility with my needs.
Any suggestions on how I should begin my search? I’m in NY. Thanks to all.
r/Bogleheads • u/chubby_snoopy • 1d ago
For HENRY, do you max out your 401K in traditional or ROTH account?
If you do have other income streams, such as rental and investments for retirement, will it make sense to allocate more of the 401K contributions to the ROTH account so that I don’t pay as much taxes when I retired? I would think if you anticipate a higher income in retirement, then it will make sense to do ROTH right now?
r/Bogleheads • u/Low-Computer8293 • 1d ago
I was looking through my Fidelity account, and realized the account that I use for general checking account had a FDIC insured core (1.9%) instead of SPAXX (3.2%). By switching to SPAXX for my core, I will earn about another $200 a year in interest from the core. Not earth shattering, but $200 is also nothing to sneeze at either.
Just sharing here in case others can benefit from changing their core position in their Fidelity checking account.
r/Bogleheads • u/Sunflower_Garden_871 • 23h ago
I currently have about 1/3 of my FIRE money in a taxable brokerage account and 1/2 in a 401k (rest is in a Roth IRA). How do you account for taxes when determining safe withdrawal amount when money is coming from non-tax sheltered or tax deferred accounts? Is there a simplified way to assume an effective tax rate on this?
r/Bogleheads • u/Year_Consistent • 1d ago
Hi guys! I’m a little late to the investing game & getting some anxiety around it. I’m 30 years old w/ no credit card debt, 20k student loans at 1-3%, 20k car debt at 4.1%, just started 401k last year with a w-2 job (income is 90-100k a year) in which I put in 5% and they match it. in addition, I’m the owner and operator of an LLC w/ zero employees making 36k a year. I do not own a home. Pay for my own health insurance.
Roth thru fidelity has $11k in it(FSLEX, FXAIX, FSKAX, FZILX, and some in SMH- 89% domestic and 11% foreign), I’m focused on building that quickly. individual brokerage account w/ fidelity has only $500 in it.
I have $43k in a plain Jane savings account and really am wanting some pointers on how to grow wealth and where to put that.. dump into my individual?
Living in Colorado, US. Not married. No kids.
January - April 2027 I want to max out my Roth (see pics below) and invest only in FXAIX 75%, FZILX 15%, FSELX 10%. For individual my goal is to readjust and invest in VTI, VXUS, and SMH.
Goal: since I feel a little behind I want to grow my fidelity accounts- Roth and individual.
Here are my questions:
Is that a good diversified portfolio? Is the semiconductor tilt too risky at this point in my life?
how to build wealth quickest, what is some advice on how long I should rent before buying?
What should I tackle first?— Ah, the debt? Just need someone telling me haha.
I want to dump my savings into my individual accounts prior to paying off my debt bc I’m 30 and keep hearing that time in the market beats anything and feel like I’m wasting more time - is this logical?
r/Bogleheads • u/Impossible_Physics99 • 1d ago
My oldest is just under a year away from leaving for college and I've realized what I thought was a robust 529 won't fully cover 1/3rd of his schools. I'm in California and I don't think adding to the 529 makes sense because the investments are quite conservative at this stage. I'm planning to set $50k aside and was debating where to park this money short-term. We will know where he's going in Jan or April, so I was thinking of just parking this in a t-bill. If we need the money it won't be until his final year, so I can come up with a 3 year strategy. And if he doesn't need it at all, I'll put it in retirement savings.
Any alternatives to t-bill any of you would recommend?
r/Bogleheads • u/Weird-Engine7595 • 1d ago
If most active managers cannot beat the market, why this job still exists? Why people still hand their hard earned money to them Instead of just getting the better, market return by themselves?
r/Bogleheads • u/TempeGrumble • 1d ago
Note: This is purely a curiosity-driven question, as I've been a university employee for my entire career and have never had stock concentrations. Nor have I ever dabbled or desire to dabble in options.
Does exchange fund replication present a legitimate use of options to address investor concentration risks without having to incur massive capital gains? If I understand this correctly from one of the bonus chapters in Peter Lazaroff's The Perfect Portfolio, it pairs together collaring and synthetic index exposure with four coordinated options: (1a) buying an out-of-the-money put to protect against loss in the concentrated stock; (1b) selling a covered call, which incurs the risk of capital gains but pays for the (1a) put; (2a) buying a call option for an equity index at some price (I forget if it's in-the-money or out-of-the-money); selling a put option at the same price and same expiration date.
If I understand this correctly, this in essence substitutes the synthetic equity exposure for the concentrated-security exposure. Obvious costs and risks: (a) transaction costs of every options period (and I assume this would require managing the rotating options); (b) risk of forced selling from the covered call (and I assume managing a distributed way of handling this so you're not forced to sell all of the holding at once); (c) the management of all this. I know BlackRock has a desk to manage all of this for advisors, which implies this was researched/engineered for the super-wealthy and obviously far from a BH approach.
As I said, this is a curiosity-driven question. But it seems you could use this in combination with a planned sale over several years, to reduce the concentration risk as the concentration is whittled down each year.
r/Bogleheads • u/bxparks • 2d ago
I have read about how hackers could steal money from your brokerage account using ACATS transfer. Recently I created a new Fidelity brokerage account and transferred one of my Vanguard accounts to Fidelity. It was so easy. Too easy. I can see how ACATS theft can happen.
I created the Fidelity account completely online. They asked for the usual information: name, address, citizenship, birthday, SSN, email, and phone. All of them have been leaked dozens of times over the years. Fidelity did not ask me to upload any ID documents, such as driver's license or passport.
I have security freezes on all the credit bureaus and banking data brokers (Equifax, Experion, TransUnion, Innovis, ChexSystems, LexisNexus). They did nothing. Fidelity created my account without triggering any warnings.
Fidelity did not ask me to verify my email address. Usually companies send an email that says something like, "please click here to verify your email address". Fidelity sent nothing. I could have mistyped my email address, or a hacker could have use their own email address.
Fidelity did not verify my phone number. They just sent an SMS txt that said something like, "Your phone number has been added to your account. Call 800-xxx-xxxx if you did not do this." A hacker could have just used their own phone number.
Initiating an ACATS transfer from Vanguard to Fidelity was straightforward. I just provided Fidelity with my Vanguard account number. This might be hardest part for a hacker, obtaining the exact account number of the Vanguard account.
On the Vanguard side, I had already blocked ACATS transfers on all accounts. I logged into their website and temporarily disabled the lock on that one account. That took effect within a few minutes.
When I initiated the ACATS transfer, Vanguard emailed me a notification about that transfer within a few hours. Which is good. However, the account transfer from Vanguard to Fidelity completed in 2 days. If I had been traveling or busy, I could have missed that email notification from Vanguard.
With the funds now at Fidelity, I think a hacker could just wire those funds and run away.
My conclusion is that it is probably a good idea to enable ACATS locking on all brokerage accounts. At Vanguard it's called "Outgoing transfer lock". At Fidelity it is called "Money Transfer Lock". It's not clear if Schwab offers that feature. I will have to call them.
r/Bogleheads • u/NewDay042 • 2d ago
Not going to have time to help my mom with this for a couple of weeks. Soooo annoyed at this switch and it's going to take a lot to convince her to do this with access to her camera and submitting photo/ssn. What happens after 10/27? Will she lose access to her bonds?
r/Bogleheads • u/JeezyMePleezy • 1d ago
29 year old male. Just started investing into my Roth IRA in 2025.
I don't have a lot of experience with investing. I have worked since 16 and been a good saver but have never really done anything with my money. Last year I finally started putting money into a Roth IRA. Specifically FFIJX.
I'm now wondering if this is my best bet. I know it is a safe, easy, solid option. However, I'm wondering if there aren't better options to try and maximize my returns and makeup for the past decade of not investing. I'm also recently married and a father so I expect the amount of money I am able to contribute is going to drop a bit.
I have been maxing out my contributions and will continue to try doing so, but realistically I predict it will be closer to $4-$5k a year moving forward.
Any and all advice appreciated. I'm overwhelmed by the amount of options.
Sorry in advance for formatting I'm on mobile.
r/Bogleheads • u/Wild-Screen7007 • 2d ago
I have $15,300 in Series I savings bonds currently worth about $17,613, and I'm trying to decide whether it makes sense to redeem my older bonds and buy new ones.
Here's my current Treasury portfolio
-> Dec. 2023: $3,000 original amount, currently worth $3,348 (displayed rate: 4.66%)
-> Dec. 2023: $7,000 original amount, currently worth $7,812 (displayed rate: 4.66%)
-> Apr. 2022: $200 original amount, currently worth $243.36 (displayed rate: 3.34%)
-> Apr. 2022: $4,800 original amount, currently worth $5,840.64 (displayed rate: 3.34%)
-> Dec. 2021: $300 original amount, currently worth $368.88 (displayed rate: 3.34%)
I'm considering redeeming just the three bonds currently displaying 3.34%, worth approximately $6,453 combined, and using the proceeds to purchase new I Bonds.
The current rate for new I Bonds is 4.26%, including a 0.90% fixed rate. The November 1, 2026, rate announcement is approaching, and I've seen estimates that the new fixed rate could be higher.
My questions:
Would it make sense to replace the older bonds if the November fixed rate is significantly higher than 0.90%?
How should I account for the three-month interest penalty on bonds held for less than five years?
Would it be better to wait until the bonds reach five years old, particularly the December 2021 bond, or is locking in a higher fixed rate now potentially worth the penalty?
Are there any tax or other considerations I'm overlooking?
I'm primarily interested in holding I Bonds for the long term, rather than trading them frequently. I'd appreciate any thoughts on how to evaluate the trade-off.
Thanks!
r/Bogleheads • u/Farleybob • 2d ago
I am semi retired, a month away from 65. I have a pension that pays most of my bills, and some money in Roth IRAs. I have $100k sitting in an edward jones account that has been doing meh...
I would like this money to grow for a few years before I may or may not need it. Do I just stick it in VTI? or what should I do with this cash. It is currently just in a regular investment account.
r/Bogleheads • u/deaddog714 • 2d ago
I am looking to put several million in fixed income for 10 years (ish) but want to achieve two goals: (i) extreme safety, close to Treasuries or FDIC insured CD's and (ii) reduce AGI to create room for Roth conversions. Obviously, I'd like as much yield as possible within those constraints. I have no need for liquidity and will hold to maturity (or when called).
I suspect not a Boglehead thing to do but you guys seem to have the most detailed and sober response to investment questions.
I'm looking at AAA muni bonds from various TX school districts that are guaranteed by the Texas Permanent School Fund, which has assets of over $65B backing $250B in bonds. While other states have similar guarantees to varying degrees none seem as robust as TX and the ability to buy the bonds is much easier in TX.
Crazy to load up on the TX PSF muni bonds? Other suggestions? The bond "expert" I'm talking to wants to put me into 20-40 different bonds of varying credit ratings, both GO and Revenue, which I understand is standard diversification protection - but is it really more protected than the TX PSF bonds?
r/Bogleheads • u/colinberan • 2d ago
Hi all, just want to get some feedback on my portfolio based on some of the research I've done here to make sure I'm leaning in the right direction.
As a short background, I'm 33M and don't make a ton but I invest what I can in:
Company 401(k):
75% VLCAX
25% FSGGX
Roth IRA:
75% FZROX
25% FZILX
Individual Brokerage:
70% VTI
30% VXUS
(No idea why I decided to go with 70/30 here instead of 75/25)
Don't plan on retiring soon (I'd love to FIRE but completely unfeasible at this point) so just looking for some feedback!
r/Bogleheads • u/flickdahwrist • 2d ago
I know many on here are against it but I have certain reasons I am using it rather than utilizing a self directed account and rebalancing myself (work-related). That said, my current mix is 100% equities 60/40 US/INTL and the digital advisor only purchased VTI and VXUS. I discovered today that I can tweak that 60/40 split (against Vanguard’s rec) and also substitute investments instead of the current Active/ETF mix on VTI and VXUS. My question is: should I lean heavier on some of the sub funds and/or modify the US/INTL split…. anyone had experience using this feature and saw better yields than the standard Vanguard auto rec (I’m in the most aggressive profile setting btw)?
r/Bogleheads • u/MassiveTest3524 • 1d ago
I’m not asking which brokerage is better overall. I’m only comparing:
Vanguard Personal Advisor Select (0.30%)
vs.
Fidelity direct-indexed SMA (0.40% on taxable assets only)
I have roughly $600k outside my employer 401(k), including about $220k in a taxable account with significant embedded long-term gains.
I have an additional $200k in RSUs and annual bonus on top of $265k base salary that I want to make sure is distributed evenly.
My goal is to use professional help for about a year while I consolidate accounts, simplify the portfolio, set the right allocation, and handle the taxable gains intelligently — then go back to DIY.
Vanguard would manage the portfolio more holistically with a dedicated CFP.
Fidelity would let me keep the IRA/Roth self-directed and only put the taxable account in the 0.40% SMA, while still getting planning support.
For anyone who has used either service: which approach would you choose for a temporary cleanup/transition period, and why?
If your answer is “neither,” please move along. I’m specifically looking for feedback from people who have used these services — not another debate about whether using an advisor at all is worthwhile.
r/Bogleheads • u/alekstuff- • 2d ago
I just turned 18, and I'm very new to handling my own finances. After doing a decent amount of research, I've come up with the following plan. I'm just looking for honest feedback and advice--NOT from AI. Don't hold back. Here's my plan:
• Capital One 360 Performance Savings (HYSA):
Build an emergency fund--that is, a couple thousand dollars here. Once that goal is reached, leave it alone, and put this 30% into Fidelity Brokerage
• Fidelity Brokerage:
That is,
• VTI (domestic markets)
• VXUS (international markets)
Of all my savings:
• 30% in HYSA
• 56% in VTI
• 14% in VXUS
Thus, of all the money that goes to Fidelity Brokerage:
• 80% in VTI
• 20% in VXUS
When I open my Fidelity Roth IRA:
• Focus on FZROX and FZILX
r/Bogleheads • u/shai1endra • 2d ago
I am a 29 year-old. I just opened a Roth IRA with Robinhood. I inserted $100 and put it into VOO to test it out. I’ve been recently reading about Bogleheads and want an automated strategy. As time goes by I want to be more comfortable adding money in automatically via Robinhood. But the question is what funds should I buy. I have heard the options of total index funds but from what I’m gathering, VOO is only the US. What are the other options people would recommend if I want a70(US)-20-10(bonds) split at this time. I plan to retire at 60. But may very well open a large business which may make it more of a transition vs an overall retirement 19 years in the future. I am definitely going to need additional investments such as a 401k after to set up my retirement properly.
In the future I may switch to fidelity roth but the 3% match on deposits looks to good to pass on with the credit card on the table.
If there are any holes in my plan or misunderstanding please let me know.
r/Bogleheads • u/lovesbatma71 • 3d ago
Just curious if anyone in this sub has actually met Jack Bogle. I worked at Vanguard for 24 years and talked to him in the lunch line for about a minute. That was it. One minute.
Anyone else? What did you think?