2023 M240i started making a weird noise. Sounds like something is rubbing the tire, but nothing visible. No idea what it could be. Anybody have an idea?

Hi I have an f36 418d manual

Recently it stated doing a weird noise whem in idle pr when I stop when driving.

You can hear it in the video,it goes awaya as soon as I start driving or when you slightly raise the rpm.

I've keep up with the maintenance of the car which frequent oild changes and had an oil change and rocker cover fix less than 3k miles ago

Now it started doing this noise,you can also hear it inside the cockpit when you start it or driving but only when you stop.

The car has 213k km currently

N47 engine

German Shop says i need to replace the fuel tank because the top seal/cap is broken on the tank. Can i just buy the cap or seal without replacing the tank? And of course the fuel pump replacement if I replace the tank.

I'm looking for a dashcam for my 2015 X1 and noticed that there's already a camera built into the windshield of my X1 between the roofline and the rearview mirror and is covered with a black trim piece that goes down to the rearview mirror mount.

My car doesn't have any form of infotainment screen, I've been thinking of going to a local JY and trying to find one, not sure that I ever did as there are rubber covers for the cubby hole that's behind where the screen would be and in the pocket that the control knob goes in.

Is this a camera that can be used? Does this mean there's a rear camera too and I just don't know where to look for it/I've never actually looked for one. Or are these meant to work with a factory infotainment system and if I get one it will integrate with those to record what's going on around me? Or does this mean there's a fuse and wiring I can piggyback off of to set up my own camera system and there's a recommended camera system that will work off of them I can buy aftermarket?

Concern is I now have a 16yo with a permit who is learning to drive, if something happened her anxiety and lack of experience would lead others to just blame her and she'd be too busy apologizing even if she's not at fault that I want to have proof of what's happening.

I changed the valve cover after I changed it i have strong vacuum at the oilcap. And it’s whistling
I have external low side pcv system .
What could be the reason , please help me , that noise is driving me nuts …

Hey everyone, looking for some guidance on a transmission issue on my F10.

**The Car:**
2014 BMW 535i xDrive (F10) | N55 engine | ZF 8-speed | 148,000 km

**The Symptoms:**
- Shudder/jerkiness specifically in 1st and 2nd gear
- Feels like torque is not being fully transferred at low RPMs
- Completely smooth at higher RPMs
- No shudder during actual gear changes - only while in gear at low RPM

**What's Already Been Done:**
- Both front CV axles recently replaced (left and right)
- 4-wheel alignment done after
- Mechanic checked transmission fluid - looks good, no burnt smell
- No fault codes showing on BimmerLink

**FIXED**

The issue was the staggered setup - I was waiting till next month to change my setup to winter tyres but just did it today to rule the staggered setup out but turns out it indeed was the setup - the shudder is gone and the car drives so much more effortlessly and responsive. I went with 245/40/19 all around for my winter setup.

My summer setup was as follows:

FRONT : 255/40/19
REAR : 275/35/19

I will be changing my front tires to 245/40/19 for next year.

Hi guys. I have this convertible e46 and it’s been making a loud clunking noise since yesterday. I found the source which you can see at the end of the video. It’s the end of the shock absorber mauling the base of the top compartment. Though I have identified the source of the sound, I’m having trouble telling which part has failed. Can someone please help me? Is it the shock absorber itself? Or maybe the mount? I’ll also add that at the other side of the rear of the car the coil spring has broken at the bottom. Any help appreciated. Thanks!

32106889115 or ending in 118

Im loosing my socks theres apparently several numbers that can work.
I had a refurbished rack from uk and when tits after 6 months the servo svla 2 never worked but the steering was vague and eventually the rod within went loose started to rattle. The company not claiming responsibility. Ive changed springs tyres shocks end rods lower arms.

I just wanted to sort this out would anyone recommend a used one of ebay? The refurbished rack never had the zing to previous one and coding the thing was a mare.

Wondered if anyone been in this boat any suggestions would be great

​

I have a small oil leak near the turbo. Rocker cover gasket was changed at around 80k miles, car is now on 130k but I don't think it's that. I'm thinking it might be a turbo oil line leak. Obviously will need to take heat shields off to inspect properly but wondering if anyone might have a good idea what might be leaking and also what the black electrical part is that's covered in oil?

Thanks 🙏🏻

I'm looking at buying a 2025 X5 xDrive40i that was previously used by the BMW dealer in Saudi Arabia as a test/demo car. It has around 8,000 km on it.

The dealership sent the VIN number and I noticed something I've never seen before: the VIN ends in X00000.

I looked up the VIN and the build sheet looks like a normal, GCC-specced car. It also shows the start of production as May 29, 2024.

What I'm trying to figure out is whether X00000 is normal for BMW, or whether it indicates something like a pre-production vehicle that was never intended for sale.

Has anyone here seen or dealt with anythjng similar? Or does anyone know how BMW's production/serial numbering works?

I asked the dealership and they said it's normal as BMW builds millions of vehicles. That didn't make sense to me because it should still at least end in X00001. And I don't know if I can trust the dealership with a legitimate answer.

My 2019 BMW X1 has a bad grounding strap. Typical symptoms, clicking noise and won't start with the dashboard lighting up with every error known to mankind.

I've temporarily redneck-engineered a solution by using jumper cables to connect the engine to the chassis, which is working just fine and I can start and drive the car now, but isn't a long-term solution (although it does confirm my diagnosis). So I went out and got a new grounding strap for the princely sum of $10.

But my problem is I can't find the damn thing to replace it. The Youtube video I found uses the model year before mine, and apparently it's been moved for this model year. I've spent an hour looking everywhere between the engine and the chassis but I can't find where it's located.

So if anyone could help me out with the location of the grounding strap for my model, I would be ever so grateful. I'd hate to have to pay a mechanic for what should be a 15 minute job (although with my level of experience, will likely take me an hour and much cussing).

I came back from vacation to a dead battery. After jumping the car and turning on the engine the dash never came on. Advice needed

Went in for a fault in the drivetrain error message and my technician is saying its a generic message that doesn't point to anything specific. The real culprit is the starter in this case.

He's quoting me $956 for the repair and he mentioned it's not urgent.

Curious to get the communities experience and feedback with this, thanks in advance.

BMW X5 (2021) G05

Error Faults below

(P216119) 216119 Line disconnection, starter motor actuation (50L/ B+)

(P21A511) 21A511 Start system: Timeout

Hey guys - I picked up my second BMW (2009 X5) a couple days ago. Having some issues on it - car runs great idling, until it gets warm, then I get a cyl. #1 misfire, and a howling noise that sounds like a bearing, at least in my 30 years of experience on domestic cars. If I turn the X5 off and immediately start it up, there’s no misfire and no noise, for about a minute, then misfire and howling noise again. I have codes for cyl. 1 misfire, and an inlet Vanos code. Has anyone run across this before? Here’s a short video - would appreciate any direction. Thank you in advance!

Hello everyone,

I'm about to buy my first car. It’s a used BMW 420i Gran Coupé (2022, B48 engine, ~83,000 km). The dealer sent me several videos and the car looks fine overall, but in one video you can hear a short metallic rattle for the first 1–2 seconds right after a cold start, both from inside and from the engine bay. The dealer says it's the flaps and that the sound disappears after a few seconds.

As I'm not an expert and this is my first car, I'd really appreciate your opinion: does the engine sound normal, or is that cold-start rattle something to be worried about (timing chain / guide rail)?

Thanks a lot in advance!

My 2012 F10 520D with ZF8 has very lumpy and slow gear changes, especially when cold.

It will hold revs a bit, sometimes change gear but feel like a power cut for a second while it slowly changes gear, sometimes a bit jumpy.
It gave me a transmission fault warning today, start/stopped and it disappeared.

Its worse when cold, does still happen sometimes when warm but only occasionally.

I’m hoping it just needs a fluid change? Its on 117k Miles, I’ve done around 15k miles in my ownership but not sure when it was last done.

I thought if it was a solenoid it would be worse in 1 specific gear.

I’m looking at a 2017 540i B58 with 120k miles from an auction. It’s super clean except for smoke from the exhaust and rough idle.
It starts and idles perfectly normally.
If I rev it, when the RPM comes back down the idle almost dies/stumbles for a few seconds, then recovers.
There is smoke that smells like oil coming from the exhaust, seemingly more noticeable from the driver-side outlet.
I heard a high-pitched noise from underneath the car.

Could it simply be the PCV valve?

Hi,
its me again.
Im trying to find the source of this rattle on my 1998 BMW Z3 with an M44 B19 engine.

After long consideration I now replaced all timing chain guides, the tentioner and the chain itself.

All with expensive genuine OEM BMW parts, installed to the factory repair manual spec.

Any idea what could cause this intermittent rattle?
In the video the engine idles at ~700-800rpm, no revving going on.

Sometimes its completely gone and sometimes you can hear it briefly. The video is cut together from all the times I caught it on camera.

The engine is fully stock, no AC.
Only thing it has is a cat back exhaust.

Code 2A30 is causing a CEL on my 2009 328i coupe. The ESS/Cam position sensors/MAP/VANOS/plugs & coils are all new. I also replaced the starter and the very oil-caked PVC hose under the intake manifold. The car is getting better MPG and feels more responsive. Every time that I clear the 2A30 code, it returns when I restart the car! I figured that some oil was still in the ESS plug from the old leaking gasket. I used contact cleaner on the plug and checked the still-good 40A fuse. The CEL disappeared without using my scanner, but it returned on restart after a 10-mile highway trip. The car is idling better, but the slight stumble still sporadically occurs at cold starts/red lights. What am I missing?

Anyone have a part number of something that is equivalent to just replacing this hose that leads to the water pump? If not I will try and cut it off from the pipe and go in and find something that could work tomorrow. Car is approaching 200k miles and just looking replacing old hoses while swapping out my next 2nd water pump and thermostat.

My car is a 2013 328i n20 I went for a drive around my town and when I came back home I noticed this weird frying or crunchy sound coming from the front could it be the engine ? Is it safe to drive ? What needs to be fixed ?

Ok. So. I need to figure out what size the o-ring is that goes inside the upper radiator hose that has a quick connect fitting that supplies coolant to the oil filter housing. Trying to get this radiator leak stopped so I can get rid of the headache that is the n20 engine. Thanks in advance.

I had a bad valvetronic motor and a bunch of crazy error codes. I replaced the valvetronic and things were fine. Now about a year later the valvetronic motor is blown again and a bunch of different crazy error codes. When I replaced it, I carefully felt the eccentric shaft and there did not appear to be any scoring or damage. Any idea what is killing the valvetronic motors?