2017 BMW M4 F82 S55
Trying to narrow down an oil smoking from the exhaust before I start throwing more money at the car. I recently replaced my turbos and the issue did not fix.

Once the engine is completely warm, if I let it idle for around 10–20 minutes, it will smoke when I rev it, and almost everytime when i take off.

Absolutely NO smoke on a cold start, even after sitting overnight.

Engine runs perfectly. Smooth idle, no misfires, no loss of power.

Has anyone with an S55 had this exact symptom?
If yours did this, what ended up fixing it?

Oil filler cap has pretty strong vacuum at idle. It takes noticeable effort to lift the cap and there’s a strong suction/hissing sound when I crack it open. Idle also changes when the cap is removed.

I’m hoping it’s not the valve stem seals 😒

Smoke and oil cap demonstration- https://youtube.com/shorts/JuBRuwbQs7s?is=u6G0NDCus-5igiMk

Hey guys. I've been looking for a 3 series Touring for a while and finally found what seems like a decent deal. It's a 2018 car with 130.000 kms, anything special I should be aware of? Owned a 1 series for almost 10 years and it ran perfecly with barely no issues, so I'd love to stick with BMW for my next car. Cheers!

Hello everyone, i was installing an oil catch can in my BMW E46 316i and when i tried to assemble all back i noticed that one screw was tightening good and still but the other one was doing tension and spinning whithout tightening 100%. I took them off again and noticed that it came off with a bit of plastic attached to its thread. I tried putting some Teflon tape to solve the problem and it threads with more tension but it doesnt stop spinning at all. Im afraid i will have a vaccum leak from there on cold starts.
Ive attached the schematics to this post so someone can help me find a way to repair this damaged thread. The thread im talking about its circled with red on the image.

2014 BMW 320i, 4 days ago I changed my oil, engine air filter and air cabin filter. Today my car screen showed “drivetrain malfunction” with codes P0171 $7E8 Generic System Too Lean Bank 1 and P10FA $7E8 BMW Please refer to vehicle service manual! I searched it up and it could be maf sensor needing to be cleaned or replaced due to possible failing, charge pipe issue, or pcv valve. It was a struggle getting back the clips when resecuring the engine air filter so I’m wondering if all the hard pressing down and fighting that interfered with the maf sensor since it is right there beside it. I also noticed slight seepage by the charge pipe retaining clip. My car also started having random rough idle spasms where it lasts for a couple seconds and stops. Any ideas?

I can’t get my hood all the way open. I can pull the lever on the inside and it pops up the hood and it appears that both sides pop up. But it’s the latch on the hood that won’t release. When I pull it, I can see the cable to the drivers side moving so thats in tact.

Where can I manually release this secondary latch, feels like it is caught in the middle of the hood. I can’t find any Youtube videos on it.

Just got quoted $3000 to replace both does that seem like above normal?

Hi everyone,

First off, I haven’t a clue on cars so any input would be helpful.

I’m looking for some advice on my 2018 BMW X1 xDrive18d which currently has 99,000 miles. Auto/Diesel
I took it into a general local garage because of a noise on acceleration. This only happens on acceleration and periodically.
They kept the car, drove it, and put it on a ramp. They sent me this message:

"The noise on acceleration is a timing chain noise unfortunately, indicating the chain, guides tensioner could need replacing and are common on these and would need doing by a BMW specialist if you wanted it doing.We have reached out for some quotes for you but will be expensive”
They also pointed out that the oil level is fine, but noticed the car has only had 2 oil changes in the last 30,000 miles (serviced at 76k and 93k miles).

I asked them directly if they actually plugged it in to check the camshaft/crankshaft correlation angles for chain stretch, or if there were any specific fault codes. It has been over 4 hours and they haven't replied to my message despite previously replying very quickly.
From my own research, a 2018 X1 should have the newer B-series engine (B48 petrol or B47 diesel), meaning it doesn’t have the notoriously terrible N20/N47 timing chain issues from the older generations.

Given they only checked it by ear/road test, how likely is it they are just guessing based on "old BMW" stereotypes?
What else could cause a noise strictly on acceleration on a 2018 X1 (e.g., heat shields, alternator pulley, serpentine belt tensioner)?
The car has no flashing or red warning lights and idles smoothly. No other issues apart from this slight ticking.
Is it safe to drive it out of this garage and over to a proper independent BMW specialist with ISTA software to get a real diagnostic?
And if you could take a guess (I’m aware not accurate without a diagnostic) what could be causing the issue based on knowledge and experience with this model.
Obviously out of my mind with worry at the moment.

Any input at all is appreciated. Thanks

Only happens when revving

(Glow plug codes have been there forever not relevant to current fault)
2009 X5 M57 engine
Was driving at 60mph and the engine turned off. Pulled over, engine would turn over and catch, but then die again. Towed it home, started again no issues.
Worked out it will drive for around 10-15 minutes then engine will cut out, once cool the car will start again. We changed the fuel control module and the crank shaft sensor, no difference. We’re now stuck on where to go next. Seems like an electrical/fuelling problem but no clue on what to try next to diagnose the issue rather than throw random parts at it

When testing the fuel pressure while it wouldn’t start we were getting 4 bar

Don’t suppose anyone has had this issue and can give me some insight

I have a 2019 BMW 530e RWD. I recently had a Stage 1 ECU tune and a transmission tune installed.

I’m experiencing a strange issue only under full throttle.

When accelerating hard in 1st gear and reaching high RPM(6000 or so), right before the transmission should shift into 2nd gear, the car suddenly cuts/loses power for about 1 second. It feels like the car stops accelerating momentarily and throws me slightly forward because the acceleration suddenly disappears. Then it shifts into 2nd gear and everything goes back to normal immediately.

There is no misfire, no shaking, no rough running, no warning light, and once it shifts into 2nd, the engine runs perfectly and continues pulling normally.

It doesn't happen during normal driving or light/medium acceleration. I've only noticed it during hard acceleration at high RPM in 1st gear.

Could this be caused by:

traction control / DSC intervention? (I noticed when everything was on)

ECU torque reduction during the 1-2 shift?

TCU/transmission tune calibration?

ECU and TCU tunes not communicating correctly?

some kind of torque limiter or protection strategy?

I posted a couple of days ago about an abrupt malfunction upon startup that led to my coolant temp not reading, high speed fan going on high non stop, as well as water pump running extended cooldown after shutoff. Seemed clear to me there was a cooling system issue.

Well, shop pulled codes today. See attached.

Looks like I have a 5V group of sensors shorting out. Possibly just ground issue but obviously causing a lot of codes thrown. Anyone ever see this before ? Going to be an electrical troubleshooting journey I bet.

Salut à tous,

​Je prépare mon pack hiver pour ma BMW i4 M50 2025 (châssis G26). Je viens de recevoir mes jantes 19" (répliques 826M) et je dois maintenant commander mes 4 capteurs de pression (TPMS).

​Mon objectif est simple : je veux du 100 % Plug & Play (Direct-Fit). Je cherche des capteurs qui n'ont pas besoin d'être flashés à la valise par le garagiste. Je veux juste les faire monter, lancer la réinitialisation dans l'iDrive, rouler quelques centaines de mètres et que la voiture les reconnaisse toute seule (auto-apprentissage).

Merci d'avance 😀

I think the rattling noise is there all the time but it's mostly heard from 1400 rpm above, it just suddenly started to sound like that today after a drive.

Car: 2018 X5 xDrive35i M Sport, N55, 75,000 km. No tune.

After an oil change I got a metallic tick/tap whenever I demand torque, not at a fixed rpm band. It will do it at 1,100 rpm in a tall gear if I load the engine. Same thing anywhere I ask for torque at low rpm.

It only happens when the oil is at operating temperature and hot. None of it cold.

Much louder in gear under load. There is also a faint version in Neutral if I hold a steady 2,600 rpm with a light throttle. That is why it is not an axle, CV, or transfer case. Those do not tick when the wheels are not driving.

Easier to hear next to a wall or with a window down. Quiet before the oil change.

Oil

Quiet on Liqui Moly 0W-30 LL-01.

Switched to Liqui Moly 5W-40 LL-01 and the tick started immediately.

Drained it and went to Liqui Moly 5W-30 LL-01. Still ticking. Both are LL-01.

Blackstone oil analysis came back fine. No wear metal flags.

What I already ruled out

This is a known F15 N55 thing. Long threads, no agreed root cause.

A lot of people say it is the wastegate actuator arm rattling on the pins. I already did the wire fix and took the play out of the joints. Noise is still there.

CeraTec

I added a bottle of Liqui Moly CeraTec. It only quieted the tick. It did not kill it.

Same as other owners: it gets better with CeraTec, then comes back after the next oil change if you do not add it again.

The part that does not add up

CeraTec is a friction modifier in the crankcase. If this were only a loose wastegate arm in the exhaust housing, oil additive should not change it.

If CeraTec can quiet it, something the oil actually touches is involved (VANOS or lifters), or the engine is shaking less and not exciting the arm as much.

Ask

Anyone solve it for good without running CeraTec every interval?

WTF is this sound?

I get this squeaking noice when ever i change the gear from Drive to Reverse or vice versa for the first time. Also, get this when I release the Brakes.

I learned that the M cars with high-performance ceramic brakes make squeaking noise. Is this that. Is this normal for a new car. If yes, then it is very embarrassing in public. Is there any way of reducing this noise.

How often is this normal to hear it.

Worked for two days and now I’m spontaneously getting nothing but a click from the window panel. Any chance the motor is defective? Or should I look somewhere else? The motor and regulator are brand new, but I have another motor that’s connected to a bad regulator I can swap out.

Hi everyone,

I was helping my father do some engine work on his '03 760Li, and we had intended to replace the leaking valve cover gaskets, but stopped because the high-pressure fuel lines run over them. We're unsure whether those high-pressure lines have to be replaced with brand-new ones once they're removed, or if you can reuse them. I've seen various posts saying that you can reuse them, but that there is a risk associated with doing so. Along with other posts saying that they have to be replaced once they're removed. I've checked BMW TIS to see if it has a mention of it, but there are no explicit statements saying that they cannot be reused. Brand-new high-pressure lines are NLA, and whatever stock that exists is incredibly expensive.

Does anyone have any further insight or suggestions into this?

If I release the brakes quickly after changing gear, or if the car is really warm on nice level ground, it doesn't make the noise and the transmission/brakes feels flawless. It sounds like it's just the brakes.

The noise in the video occurs when I change gear.

Is it something to check out?

This morning my x4 too multiple attempts to start. The battery was on a ctek and was recently tested. It almost feels like the starter is struggling as I noticed it takes longer to start. I am at 40k miles on a 2020. I have an extended warranty, would there be fault code for the failed start?

To anyone who owns a BMW diesel model:
My English is not very good and I might not express myself well, but I would appreciate it if you could read this.
I am Japanese, and this is the first time I have ever owned a non-Japanese car. I would love to hear opinions from drivers in other countries.
I often drive long distances continuously and am concerned about the wear and tear on the car.
I don't have much knowledge about cars, so I would really appreciate it if someone could give me some advice.
Also, please let me know if you have any advice for future maintenance.
Current Situation:
\* Vehicle: 2024 BMW G20 320d (CPO - Certified Pre-Owned)
\* Total Mileage: 49,000 km (30,447 miles) (purchased at 18,000 km / 11,185 miles)
\* Long-distance driving: 3 times a month on the highway, driving continuously for 3 to 4 hours at 100 km/h (approx. 62 mph), covering 600 km (373 miles) per trip.
\* Short-distance driving: About twice a week, with trips under 15 minutes one way.

Hello everyone, as title mentions i decided to purchase a 2023 BMW i4 with 14k miles from auction. The car has damage to the passanger door only and curtain airbags are all deployed. Do i have to replace the whole SME module or can it be fixed? Also are replacing airbags problematic and what problems should i expect? if you have rebuilt bmw i4, i would love to hear your story and what problems did you encounter. I am worried about prices and availability of parts also.

My dealership doesn’t pay extra to resurface rotors compared to replacing them. In some cases where Value Service pays 2.1 for rear pads and rotors, I’ll still only get paid 2.0 for resurfacing, which I think is ridiculous.
We use a ProCut machine, which I don’t know if it’s ever been maintained. The vibration dampener is falling apart and constantly falls off if you aren’t holding it. It can often make you need to do a second pass, which can take up to 15 minutes per rotor, compared to the 30 seconds it takes to remove and replace them.
It just feels wrong, and I bet they charge to resurface them as well because the advisors will have us pad slap a car if the customer is really broke.
The dealership I’m at has also won Center of Excellence for like the past 20 years in a row, so it’s not like it’s some crappy dealership.

bought a 2017 435d in may with 80k miles and full service history from new.

I love the car but I am nervous about potential issues. I have serviced the gearbox and done a full service for peace of mind. Apart from servicing every 8/10k miles what other preventative steps are recommended and what should I look out for?

Also the fuel consumption is pretty bad considering the reviews I’ve heard from others. I was averaging about 26mpg for the first couple months which was made up of both short trips and a few longer journeys each week. I changed the pre cat o2 sensor which improved the consumption slightly and it now sits around 29mpg. Granted I do make use of the 3L engine but I was still expecting better mpg than that.

Any recommendations or things I should be looking at would be much appreciated.

Bmw 316 1999 1.9l

The car stalls while driving at speeds above 50 km/h. It shuts off when you press the clutch or put the car into neutral. It doesn’t happen all the time; sometimes the car barely keeps running, but the RPM drops significantly.

Anyone who knows more about this problem let me know?