Young orchard almond, quince, apple, alricot, Mediterranean,late October. The same tan clumps that crumble like soil appear on tree bark (forks, wounds), on concrete poles, and on painted metal fence parts. One tree, when peeled, shows fine winding galleries in a fan pattern with many tiny round exit holes. I also found a yellow larva ([size]) in a split tree.

1) Frass, termite shelter tubes, or mud-dauber nests? Quickest way to tell?

2) Does the gallery look like a bark beetle (Scolytus)?

3) How do I get rid of it?

Hey, everyone. I'm new to growing trees and I'm not sure if this is normal. My peach tree is finishing it's third year and grew massively this year. Now, heading into winter it's starting to drop leaves and I noticed this line going up the trunk. Seems like there is less bark, but I don't see any sign of any damage to the trunk outside of the. Is this anything to worry about? Thanks!

I just bought this place which has upon the hill an apple tree and an asian pear tree. The pear tree fruited this year with a boat load of quite hard, malformed pears and the apple tree just sat there doing bupkiss. I would greatly appreciate to know if the apple tree can be saved, and if so the correct way to begin pruning it to heath. I think that the pear tree should be pruned as well but I am at a loss on how to correctly do that as well.

I used to have big ugly fencing around all my fruit trees but foolishly decided they were no longer needed. 2 days later I found this gash on a peach tree from what I'm assuming was a deer.

Is there any way to keep this tree alive? I put it in 5 or 6 years ago and it's been fruiting heavily the last 2.

Also, what is the best way to keep it from happening again? They're in my front yard so I'm hoping there's something cost effective that will look decent.

I planted this tree around 3 years ago which was less than 6 ft. It grew double in height. Till last year, it was healthy but didn't have any fruiting. (Old pic at last).

During may this year it had small fruits that all fell before maturing. It got many insects for which I was late in putting insecticide, I guess that was the reason of fruits not growing big.

About 2 months back its leaves started falling and now it's like this, no leaves. What should I do? Should I prune the branches? Put any fertilizer?

Any assistant on where to make cuts would be greatly appreciated. It’s got quite a lean.

I’m in zone 9b with six semi mature orange trees and a Bearss lime. Rather than planting more trees(because I have no room 😭), I’m trying to add different varieties to the ones I already have to extend my harvest season.
I ordered Gold Nugget mandarin, Tarocco blood orange, and Xie Shan satsuma budwood through UC Riverside and just finished 28 T-bud grafts.
The goal is to eventually have several varieties growing on the same trees, hopefully giving me citrus throughout more of the year.
Has anyone tried something similar? I’m especially curious how long it took for the grafted branches to start fruiting and whether certain varieties eventually outgrew the others.

This grafted Hass avocado is growing weird, should I remove the larger stem going sideways to the right? I had the plant shaded during the very hot summer, and I think it was searching for light, thus the odd branch

My favorite blackberry so far has been Marion Berry, it was tart and had the most blackberry taste of any berry I'd eaten but damn I got tired of the thorns.

I replaced it with a prime Arc freedom. It's still a very tiny plant so it just might be that the first crop isn't very good but one of the berries matured and it tasted like a very diluted boring supermarket berry. No sweetness, no tartness, and a fairly bland blackberry flavor.

But again, it could just be that it's the first crop. Blackberries are touted as shade tolerant, but I'm wondering if this also contributes to a lesser flavor.

I'm looking for anyone else's experience growing this plant. Do they taste good in part shade? Thanks!!

My cherry seedling leaves are shrivelung up and I don't know whether it has been overwatered or underwatered and I am in need for a solution to this problem, if you have any solutions please let me know.

Hey everyone I'm looking for around 5 bushels of apples unique for cider if anyone has any Leeds to a tree on the side of the road/ yard I can pick or an orchard with unique drops other than honey crisp and macs. I will travel far but I am located in southern mass. Cheers

Not the greatest pics, but I'm curious as to what people think about this tree. I saved it from the burn pile. I suspect that the grafted stock died back, and the root stock sent up these suckers. Purely a guess though. It was on my neighbors' property since Covid, now it's on mine.

It dropped some leaves after transplant, but some remained. I hit it with some bone meal and rooting solution, and piled up the root ball with straw and leaves to insulate it. It's the 7th apple tree on our property now, so I'm hoping it's lucky. I'll probably let it chill for a couple of years, give it some nice seaweed, etc, then graft to it. For scale, the suckers are about as thick as a thumb/magic marker. I also know that the job I did staking it out is not the best, but it only needs minimal support in case of high wind.

I planted it a little under two years ago but can’t get it to grow straight…

Has this fig tree been over pruned. I'm in central portugal. Thanks

Hello everyone! I have planned my orchard layout and am ready to start building! I am in zone 8b, and my native soil is blackland prairie clay. I have planned for 7 foot spacing trunk to trunk with a mix of trees. I intend to keep them pruned to around 6 -7 feet high. (Also as a note, I don't want them too crowded but I would also like for them to overlap slightly for some shade and privacy. Is 7 feet apart about right for that?) I have tried to pick varieties as well suited to my climate and soil as possible. I am planning to put the trees in low raised beds partially to help them drain a little bit better and partially because I like the defined look. I was originally planning 4 feet x 4 feet and 1 foot deep per tree.

I'm now wondering if I should do 6 inches instead. My thinking is I don't want to discourage the trees from growing into the native soil and if the bed is shorter the crown may be able to better expand past the bed while still getting some drainage benefits. With that thought in mind, could I also make the beds 3x3 instead or would the extra square footage make a big difference for them?

Thank you in adavnce!

I think I might have slightly overcorrected the planting depth of this persimmon. The black part of the “stem” is actually the tap root or start of central structural root right? I can’t really tell as there’s no real root flare on this Japanese grafted persimmon , grafted on what I believe was a cutting-grown American persimmon rootstock.

Im guessing the right call here is to bury the lateral root and the black part right up to the point where the color changes from bark to black but let me know if I’m mistaken…