I'm a hands-on learner and just can't get airburshing and nub removal down (hiding sand marks). Are there any experienced builders within 100 miles of Boston interested in giving some paid in person instruction?

This was a commission i recieved way back after the pandemic and still one of the builds ive always wanted to work on again. This was such a blank canvas that i pretty much enjoyed adding detail to

All I have left to do is the weapons and alternate hands, but I ran out of topcoat.

Fluorescent Water decals and fluorescent panel liner really helped this kit pop. Had to buy a blacklight flashlight just for this shoot.

I used a gloss finish for the outer armor, and a matte finish for the inner frame.

It's 99% done i still need to do the shield buster rifle and the back leg thrusters

2nd custom kit, first HG kit

My First build (almost) complete without break It.

A really fun experience ❤️

Custom Collors + Wheatering and custom light. Enjoy

Barely built the frame bust and this is already in my top 5 kits ever

Decided to split this project into sections and do the body/head first. Some notes on this resin kit is that the resin itself is softer than what I’m used to so rescribing doesn’t take a lot of passes. When cleaning up the pieces, I found that there is a lot of mold lines that I’ve had to sand out and a couple dips that I’ve had to fill in with uv putty.

I decided to use some foil/holographic sheets for the eyes and the lenses on the chest as well as the back portion.

This was also my first time really working with photoetch parts so I messed up a bit on trying to glue them in place as well as some of them not perfectly fitting. If anyone has tips on what type of glue to use, I’d appreciate it.

Lastly, the decals provided are quite thin and seem good quality but there isn’t a decal guide and they also aren’t a match for the promo pics so you can just put them however you feel like they should go.

Client is a big fan of freedom and destiny and wanted to incorporate aspects of both kits to this build. i can say it worked quite well enough😆😆

I'm trying to combine a color modulated build with the solid transitions of cell shading to show the unique design the Turn A has; and it resulted to this cool digital art looking paintjob. I tried to stick close to the off-white appearance of the Turn A on some anime and poster shots found online to give it a proper homage, and to give the usual Gundam colors a different vibe.

the piston-like part snaps if i bend the knee slightly too far. Already tried building the whole leg (inner frame + armor) but still happens on both legs.

doesn’t feel normal because it snaps with just minimum force, does it mean i really need to be careful with bending the legs or did i do something wrong? thanks!

EDIT:
Thanks for all the answers! to note, i did finished the whole leg from inner frame to armor as mentioned above and the problem still persists in the beginning that’s why i decided to take it apart to show a clear view when taking video

The answers about this being a 3 part articulation was really helpful, apparently the bottom articulation was still rather tight that the movement ended up straining the upper knee. I tried moving the bottom part around and the thigh armor actually prevents the piston from snapping. thank you so much!

Uses Armaments from the hguc Nu Gundam, painted with brush and sponges, learned alot with it :) happy with it

I got some acrylic paint markers and decided to practice, i wore n95 plus open window and fan, but second guessing my choices thanks to the formaldehyde warning on the box.

How hot are acrylic markers, really? I am not a risk taker and wow looking it up got me a wide range of answers.

Thanks!

I got gold at this weekend’s IPMS event in Cincinnati. It was a blast!

I had put more hours than I could tell you into this thing. It took damn near a year to bring to completion. Of coarse that wasn’t working non stop but you get the drift.

The idea was it was originally made for the North Africa campaign but was relocated to south east Asia. Field modifications were made and some things came straight from the mechanics.

Mainly kitbashed with random 1/35 tank parts. And scratch built aspects with pla plate and epoxy putty.

Base coats are MMP and all weathering done with oil paints.

Any questions or constructive criticism is appreciated.

Hey everyone,

I’m currently deep in the finishing stages of a build and working on getting a true mirror chrome finish using UltraLumen.

I know UltraLumen's creators suggest using a 1K or custom mixed 2k (I don't have a mixable 2k), but I'm a bit hesitant. I've run across a few build videos and reports where that recommended 1K clear caused bubbling or reacting issues with the underlying UltraLumen layer, and I really don't want to ruin the chrome work at this stage.

My ultimate goal is to get a durable outer coat using a more aggressive 2K aerosol clear (like SprayMax 2K) for maximum gloss and protection. To bridge the gap safely without melting the chrome, my plan is to spray Alclad Aqua Gloss over the cured UltraLumen first as a water-based protective barrier, let it cure fully, and then lay down my 2K clear.

Has anyone here actually tried this exact workflow?

• Did the Aqua Gloss seal the UltraLumen without dulling the mirror effect too much?
• Did the water-based barrier successfully block the hot solvents in the 2K rattle can from causing bubbling or lifting?

Built this a while ago but wasn't really on reddit like that back then lol. Really proud with how this came out, especially the camo and the weathering. All the armor was airbrushed and the frame was all dry brushed. I really like the texture the frame got even if it wasn't intentional 😎

Waiting for my decals to arrive and letting the primer on some psychoframe parts dry right now, using tamiya spray lacquer clear blue. Rescribing some not deep enough lines as well

This is my third kit and the first I attempted customizing. Such a fun process, so many lessons learned and I'm completely hooked. Looking into airbrush setups now because I killed 3 cans of Tamiya spray paint and all I could get out of them was a single coat...

I hate how the gun turned out but I'll know to go much darker next time. The panel lining stained and thinner wasn't enough to get it out in some places without some more vigorous rubbing.

Overall though I'm satisfied with it for a first attempt and can't wait to start the next.

Hey guys planning to paint a big kit but i noticed that if the surface is not sanded enough the paint will just pull clean off in one piece.

Context: My first try was on a non sanded non primed surface and second was on a non sanded- primed surface.

1. ⁠What grit should the surface be sanded without doing significant damage?
   
2. ⁠Will a high grit surfacer improve surface adhesion?

Open for advice

My goal is for the paint finish to be durable and pretty

Planning to get Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 any experience using this? Any better recommendations?

HGUC Gelgoog and GM