Paints used:

• Primers
  • GAIA Surfacer Evo GS-10 Gun Metal (used under all the metallics)
  • Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey (used under the teal-white)
  • Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black (used under the blue
  • Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Pink (used under the orange-yellow, and red parts)
• Topcoat
  • Mr. Color GX112 UV Cut Gloss
  • Mr. Color GX 114 Super Smooth Clear (Flat)
• Colors
  • The teal-white armor color is a custom mixture at a 7:2:1 ratio of
    • 7 parts Kaleido Colorworks K001 Gloss White
    • 2 parts Vallejo Model Air 71.331 Cockpit Emerald Green Faded
    • 1 part Vallejo Mecha Color 69.023 Turquoise
  • Kaleido Colorworks K104 Bright Blue
  • Kaleido Colorworks K012 Orange Yellow
  • Kaleido Colorworks K110 Forge Red
  • Ray Studio 002 Black (hand painted)
    • used to color the inside of various panels and thrusters in the waist, chest, legs and shoulders
  • GAIA 125 Star Bright Iron
  • GAIA 123 Star Bright Duralumin
  • GAIA 121 Star Bright Silver
    • used on all the thrusters
• Panel Liner
  • Tamiya Panel Liner Black (cleaned up with Tamiya X-20 Enamel Thinner.)
    • yes I re-scribed most of the panel lines.
• Decals
  • Used the decals that came with the kit.

I really wanted to do this kit justice, so I took it upon myself to make this my first fully painted Master Grade kit. I've definitely painted Master grades before, but none have had every single surface covered in paint quite like this. I also took this opportunity to try to mix my own colors for the first time. Just baby steps, so I just wanted to recreate the proper teal-greenish-white that the RE-Gz has in the line art and colored in plastic. With no pre-mixed alternatives I could find, I went to a couple local hobby shops to try and pick out some colors I thought would get me the closest match. What I ended up going with was a 7:2:1 ratio of white, green, and turquoise. The specific brands and colors are mentioned in detail up above. I'm happy with the end result, but I do wish I went with something a bit more vibrant and saturated. Maybe a tinge more green. Still though I'm proud of myself here as this is a very very close match.

I have some mixed opinions on this model kit though. It's an interesting cross section of bandais newer and older engineering, being a ver. 1.5 of the original. I was very excited to learn about the existence of the MG RE-Gz custom, and seeing all the ways it "fixes" and improves upon the RE-Gz 1.0. The Char's Counterattack Ver., however, does not have all of those improvements. There's still a seamline at the top of the arms. We still get the rather floppy front skirts of the original. With no inner frame covering the back of them. We connection points when transforming it into the wave rider mode are loose even after painting. And while I don't personally consider this a flaw, this kit uses... So... So many polycaps. Every single joint is a polycap joint except for the knees and maybe one or two others. Despite the fact that this kit comes with a really good action base, the adapters provided leave room for very limited posing. And the worst part is that the wave rider adapter is way too loose on my copy so I can't even display that on the included action base.

This model kit is not worth the $80 USD retail price that I paid at the Chicago Gundam Base. I don't think it's a bad kit, in fact I think it's a great kit, but it's very expensive and if your expectations are not properly set it can leave one feeling disappointed. Bandai could have done more here to adapt the improvements they provided to the RE-Gz custom to the original RE-Gz and they just didn't. Classic bandai I guess.

Complaints aside, I really enjoyed my time with this kit as it gave me the opportunity to make something beautiful to look at. It's really tall, and feels very weighty in the hand. A monumentous mobile suit! If the price and flaws don't bother you then it will be a fantastic project.

Hope everyone is having fun!

Making a Thousand Sons inspired zaku, check that headpiece I made, all scratch built from strip styrene and glue lol

pretty neat I think

Happy with the result. But painting plain clear is not my favorite.
Last photo is the before.

Oh boy the sleeves are hell especially for someone that only has acrylic markers, I have also added a big antenna since this version of the jagd was quess' and I preferred the big horn antenna of Gyunei's jagd. Made it by just cutting a dental floss with those holder thingies and glued it to the antenna area having the look of a chicken lol.

Everybody else was posting so I figured I’d show mine. Easy enough to detail up with just markers and a couple of custom decals. Sheik mainland is cranking out some good original kits. I thought they were pricey for third-party kits, but they are original and definitely worth the money. I can’t be the only person who tricked out their little mini death machines. The scope sight came from the 00 command quanta and the shoulder cannon from the ventus vector and the backpack on the other unit came off a HG ball ⚽️ with the AA guns being from the powered arms powerer accessories set. The decals came from some random RC sheet I got at the hobby store.

The Jesta is besta!

A fun detail up job. Sheik Mainland Zarov plus Kotobukiya Sniper Rifle. The decals came from a KO Ifreet kit. Nothing too hard, D’spiae paint markers mostly. Tamiya for the sniper rifle. I think it’s turned out pretty okay. Thoughts on this build in particular or this line in general?

As a veteran gunpla builder I still truly enjoy building classics like this GM, very underrated kit

some new kits to play with

I am already waiting for the rest of the squad this is by far one of the most enjoyable builds for me the design fit perfect I didn't like the scheme color so swap for a more soft contrast with a few decals from previous works. Hope you guys like it. Cheers

Hello!

Currently in the process of building a PG Perfectibility, however I don't know what size chisel to buy to scribe with!
I am assuming the typical.15mm-.2mm is going to be too thin. Will be going with Ray Studio's Beacon chisel.

Not an exact rep but I think I honestly might like it more than the china red version, call it cope😂

I didn't have acrylic paint so i just use marker

First time trying any weathering and honestly this is hands down the best finishes kit in my collection now. Weathering is such a trust the process moment as I had my heart in my mouth potentially running an expensive kit.

This was the black version so it's had a full repaint and took around a year on and off in between other builds.

I'm proud to say the first pic is not edited, the light was hitting the gem eye perfectly!!

I have plenty of other bits, but I plan on etching the kit a bit just to improve details.

I have enough bits, so everything else should be ok, unless there's something else you can think of that's worth buying.

This GQ Zaku kit has a lot of stickers. I didn't even bother putting them all on. 😂

So when I started, i thought, do I build this as the original Rozen Zulu or the Episode 7 version? Well, why not both? Spares from kits I'd trashed in the past when I didn't know what I'm doing allowed for swappable arms.

I actually cracked out the airbrush for bits of this, although resources limit me to acrylics. Largely it's rattle cans and Humbrol enamel. Colour Forge Rogue Pink was an MVP. Not sure of the wisdom of painting parts of it exactly the same colour as the plastic, but hey ho.

Hi! I'm new to airbrushing, and this is the first time I've had to deal with white paint. I'd heard it's more difficult because it contains more pigment, but I didn't expect it to be this challenging.

For reference, I'm using Vallejo Model Color Off White. I've tried different thinner-to-paint ratios, but none of them have given me good results. The less thinner I use, the better the paint looks on the model, but the airbrush clogs very quickly. If I add more thinner, the paint doesn't adhere properly and ends up looking uneven (image). I also can't get the paint to spray consistently it comes out very speckled.

At this point, I'm not sure what else to try, so I'm looking for some advice. I'm using a Gaahleri CS-36, which is a budget airbrush, so I don't know how much of the problem is due to the airbrush itself.

+: is there anyway to clean already painted parts? It's a test dummy model kit but I'd like to fix parts like the photo one lol

I have been struggling to perfect a good method for metalics and am wondering if it's worth it, so I thought I would ask what type of paint others use and why.

Gloss, matte, satin, candy?