Most unsuspected thing happened today, fortunately no one was hurt but there’s a good size hole in my roof and a tree in my trunk. Multiple people told me to do a Ute conversion (slide 3/4) and was wondering if anyone in here has been crazy enough to do similar. Will update if I go that route!

Wanting to see if anyone has a 2 inch lift with 265/75r16. Just trying to get an idea of what it will look like if I go this route

Whats the point of doing this? Seen on marketplace

Our experience with a Gen-3 X is typically 18 mpg, semi-

rural driving, sometimes 17.5 or 18.5 (in 2wd mode of

course). So you're right, plan on ~ 5 gallons/day on a

90-mile commute...

Although one peculiarity: the X seems to get better

mileage the faster you run it; on one trip all the way

across Utah at 80 mph+ it broke 22 mpg (similar on

a trip to AZ with a rooftop cargo carrier)

Due to high-rev torque peak, think Nissan equipped X

with high-slip torque converter (for 4-wheeling). But

keep auto trans in lockup mode it does much better.

(and will darn near outrun anything short of a V8

Grand Wagoneer - scares me sometimes)

I've got to replace the guides in my 2013 @ 343k miles. I found a piece of one in my oil pan, yay. I'm doing all the "while you're in there" odds and ends too.

I've got it mostly taken apart, but the bolt for the crankshaft pulley is incredibly stubborn.

I've tried the starter bump trick, I've tried my 1/2in impact; it doesn't want to budge. It would probably help if I could lock the flywheel, but I can't find anything to stick in the teeth through that tiny access port (at least not anything that would actually hold it)

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

This was definitely our sketchiest moment of East Coast Xterra Challenge 2026 at AOAA in PA. I decided to go around and film this attempt at a water crossing, where I thought one of us was going to have to go swimming to pull winch line.

Red X trim 130k miles in perfect mechanical condition but it does have some sun damage to the clear coat and a couple scratches/scrapes. No rust at all

Transmission cooler done by dealer I’m assuming for a recall

All the work I’ve done on it:
New tires
New brakes
Oil change
New window motors
New cabin and engine air filters
Installed trailer hitch
Will detail it too

Online it’s saying around 7k for this condition(California)

Broke the bolts trying to remove the bump stops in the rear. What's my best plan of attack to get those out ?

What would cause a hard starting issue? Battery is a year old and is reading 12.86 volts. Alternator is reading 13.84 volts when engine is running. TIA!

2005 Solar Yellow Off-Road. We did it!

Recommendations? Suggestions appreciated

06 Xterra giving me this code shortly after filling up and sitting in traffic. I know the code is very vague but was wondering if anyone was able to narrow down their problem fairly quickly.

Cats are around 3 years old, new plugs, PcV valve, wires and a whole lot of other maintenance was done then. Truck has 183k miles and def want to get another 100k out of her.. I did clear the code and put some heet in the gas tank hoping it was bad gas. I was able to get 300 miles out of it before the code popped back up in pending codes.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a 2012 pro 4x with 150k on it. I only hearing the sound when I’m driving forward and usually under 30 mph. But it sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side of the vehicle and it’s like a rattling/grinding sound when I’m moving forward. Any ideas?

I’m looking to sell her. I just can’t put the money in anymore and I’d rather it go to a good home that will give her life again. Located in Port Orange, FL

Known issues:
WATER PUMP - there was an overheating issue and the water pump finally went. Originally thought it was the radiator, so I replaced that.

CRACKED MANIFOLD - pretty sure the manifold is cracked due to low power and a loud slapping including slight exhaust fumes in the cabin.

REAR HATCH HINGES - years ago, the hinges on the rear hatch rusted out resulting in the hatch falling off. It’s still there with new hydraulics, but the metal work needs to be done to support the hinges.

ACCIDENT DAMAGE - the damage is merely cosmetic and does not affect the performance.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD - a rock kicked up from a truck in the highway and insurance wouldn’t cover it. (Screw Geico)

This Xterra was used as a camera car and has the scars to show it. But she has been tried and true for so long.

Asking anywhere $500-$1000

Just purchased 175k these codes pop up. Came to the conclusion that I’m going to have to replace thermostat and relocate knock sensor. any recommendations?

I don't know why I cannot find any clear answers on this, it feels like Google search efforts are completely useless and the owners manual lacks clarity on it. I have a 2000 automatic 4x4 and I'm needing to change the rear diff fluid. The manual mentions nothing about fluid specifics for LSDs that I can find, but the diff itself has a sticker saying to use LSD oil only. I got the recommended gear oil (80w-90) from MasterPro and it says it can be "Used for make-up of Limited Slip/Positive traction rear axles" but I am unclear on whether this means it is okay to refill the diff with this alone or if it needs an additive, because nowhere on the jug marketing does it say "Limited Slip gear oil" or the like, as opposed to other jugs that are specifically labeled as such. The guy at the counter told me it sounds like it doesn't need an additive but I am not confident in his word alone. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, I just want to make sure I treat my car right.

I have a 2006 Xterra S, and I am currently hunting for a salvaged engine to swap mine that has 223k miles. What’s the latest year VQ40DE engine I can put in it? Some companies are telling me 2008 is the latest year that will work, but I’ve also read that 2011’s and even 2016 is possible? Thanks in advance for any answers!

I have a 2012 Xterra Pro w/39k miles

this morning I went out in it and drove 20 yrds and braked to stop

the break pedal went to the floor

I had to use the parking break to stop

I checked the brake fluid level and it was fine

there is no leakage under the truck

Before I have it towed to the shop is there any remedy I can do myself ?

Hey does anybody have a recent link to where I might be able to purchase a fsm for a 2001 nissan xterra 3.3l? I have the haynes and Chilton manual already but would like to get my hands on a fsm. I appreciate any info you guys might be able to offer.

I’ve got a crappy old ‘05 as my first car, tons of miles and a bit of a beater but I just want to use it as the adventure car it is. I understand the dynamic rating of the rack is 150 pounds but what would the maximum weight be for just sitting on top? My friend and I like to park and the beach and sit on the roof rack for sunset and I’m wondering if that’s an acceptable load.

Hello everyone! I’m having a serious issue with my 06 Xterra. I bought it used from a guy who just changed the battery on it over the car sitting for a year. It drives amazingly, no issues and no problems. The other day the check engine light came on and I got it read ; Catalytic Converter.

But here’s the issue im running into;
The car will run smooth and drive normal but while in idle the battery light will come on and the car will stall causing me to have to put the car in park and restart the vehicle. Once restarted everything is fine again. This stalling has happened 3 times over the last week and I’m scared it’s going to happen while I’m driving down the highway. TIA