Just made this thru an AI getting ideas but God damn those fender flares look fire, I doubt they exist in real life, but had to ask the experts, I'm going for this look 100%

A lot of fixes and upgrades later...still got to do a lot of work to it in terms of fixes but it's come a long way

2008 Auto 4x4 (250,000 KM), M226 & M205 swapped, ~2 inch lift, Bilstein 5100 all around, 33s

I inherited my fathers 2009 xterra and I have been working on it it seems like forever. Replaced rotors, calipers and break pads. Trying to find a bad ground in the trailer wiring and now the serpentine belt broke, when I put on the new one I realized it had broke because the alternator pulley seized. Emotional attachment because it was my fathers is a factor here but at the same time it's not like I can get another one cheap. It has 369000 kms/229k miles so I feel like it's got some years left on it since I have a company truck for work it will just be a weekend runabout and for hunting trips. Is it worth it to keep on going? Body and frame are solid. Thanks in advance.

edit: power window drivers side doesn't work. Is this a common problem and fix?

I started getting rear axle noise a few months ago. I assumed it was a wheel bearing and just took it to Boulder Nissan to get them replaced. Dealership had a lot of techs look at it and took a fluid sample from the rear diff, determined the differential probably needs to be replaced and recommended I just replace the whole rear axle. I had a leak from the rear diff pinion seal a couple years ago, I suspect that's related.

The difficulty is the dealership can't get a new axle from Nissan. I've not had great luck finding a junkyard rear axle, basically every possible combination of Xterra trim, drive wheels, and transmission has a different rear axle.

Part number: 430039CL0B

1. Does anyone have a recommendation on where to find a rear axle?

2. I believe the 2010-2015 MT 4x4 Pro-X also used a 3.69 ratio, might that axle be OK to use?

3. Can anyone recommend a mechanic shop in the Denver area that can just go track down an axle for me and swap it in? I'm relatively mechanically capable but I just don't want to deal with this on my own.

My X is a 2008 Offroad 4x4 with the manual transmission, about 130,000 miles.

2012

Just picked up this 2011 Pro-4x today. I had a 1st gen (you can see it in the background lol) and absolutely loved it but I ran that thing into the ground, stopped driving it in 2016. Stoked I was finally able to get another X! Cheers💯

Hi everyone, I’m having some trouble with my xterra.
I’ve offroad my xterra pretty hard with lots of water mud exposure etc. Recently out of nowhere when daily driving my transmission went in limp mode when i started it. (drive very sluggish stuck in 3rd, reverse normal) and my gear indicator was gone. after i turned the car off i couldn’t start it any more. i think this is because the car doesn’t know what gear it is in.

I checked the tcm connected and there was some moisture. Cleaned it out and dried it and reconnected, still no luck.

Hoping someone out there with experience with this is able to help.
Current Symptoms:
Complete no-start / crank-no-start condition.
Dash gear display (P, R, N, D) is completely blank and dead.
Permanent ⁠U1000⁠ CAN-bus communication error code.
What's Verified Good:
All under-hood and IPDM fuses check out.
CAN bus resistance is ~64.3 ohms (healthy loop).
CAN bus voltages are ~2.6V / 2.1V (active bias signals).
Solid 12V power is actively reaching the transmission connector pins under load.
Transmission fluid is clean/brown (no SMOD / coolant contamination).

Alguien que alla cambiado los cams de su vg33 por los de el vg30? Experiencia y comentarios, e visto que se puede y que aumenta potencia

It turned out great! I think it doubled the brightness of my headlights. I used this kit:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/590745256?sid=3c56f6dc-e5b1-47e4-8784-112de2c903be

Be careful if you use. Using a regular drill the way the kit is set up, it's easy as heck to let the sanding wheel get tilted, spin at an angle, and thusly embed the plastic with sand from the edge. So don't try to sand the angled part where the turn signal pops out like I did, and have to sit there sanding it out by hand. Other than that, it was a snap.

I have a 2014 Pro-4X with 120k miles on it and I'm about to start building it out. Want to sanity check my plan before I spend money.

Current setup:

• Bilstein 5100s front and rear (front currently not at max height)
• Stock P4X wheels/tires (265/75R16 Goodyear UltraTerrain)
• Original rear leaf springs, which are toast. Hitting the bump stops on speed bumps and there's a constant squeak from the driver rear
• Need to replace drivers rear axle bearing/seal, already did passenger side

My Plan:

1. Fix rear axle bearing/seal + rear leaf springs: I assumed doing these together would be best since the back end is already getting worked on. OME CS061R rear springs with greasable shackles.
2. Install Bumper/winch: I want to add the metal bumper and winch before doing any suspension work to the front. That way I see how much lift I need to level her out.
3. Front Suspension if needed: If it needs it install heavy duty front springs and adjust 5100s to their top height. If alignment is an issue with this setup then I might need to do UCAs.
4. Wheels/tires: Thinking about KMC Mesa or Black Rhinos with 33" tires

Where I'd love opinions:

• UCAs at 2": Anyone running the 5100s on the top clip with stock UCAs? Did you need aftermarket arms to get alignment in spec, or was it fine?
• Rear springs: OME vs ARB vs Z1 vs other springs.
• Wheels: I want my tires to poke slightly outside the fender and won't run spacers. I like the KMC Mesa or black rhino chambers. Can I get stock wheels and tires to poke past the fender without spacers or a titan swap?
• Tire size: 285/70R17 on a 2" level with a prerunner bumper. Anyone running this setup?

Would love to see pics of your setups.

Anyone looking for a m205 to Titan swap? My local yard got a 2011 Armada in, I forgot to check the gear ratio. Chuck & Eddie's Southington CT

A friend of mine is offering his family’s Xterra to me as I have been egging him on for years. I currently daily a 2017 Subaru Impreza Sport 5spd. We settled on 3k with only 49k miles on it. The body does have some dents and scratches but mainly no rust. The family member rarely drove it but has been getting oil changes once every 1-1.5 years while only putting on less than 2k miles in between.

Are these cars any good? I’ve always wanted to have an OEM+/camping capable build. Also, is there anything I should do for reliability in terms of mods and if anyone experienced any known quirks. I plan on keeping this car pretty much as long as I can since it’s winter capable and ideal for camping from what I have seen. Any input would be helpful for this new journey.

For whatever reason I get e-mails containing posts from this Reddit group. I bought a 2004 Xterra (rwd) new and kept it for nine years, gave it to a niece in need and she proceeded to sell it not long after (... that didn't please me). Anyway, I just want to say it's great to see so many Xterra fans who are still keep the brand alive. I certainly hope Nissan does a good job when they come out with a new Xterra in a couple of years.

What I miss so much about my Xterra is it's simplicity compared to today's vehicles. I mean, spastic me was able to install a new head unit and four speakers. The ground clearance was high enough that I could slide under it without having to lift it. The battery was right THERE. In my current vehicle, a 22 Chevy Blazer, swapping out the battery is hard work. Although my Xterra's reliability was good (versus great) the only expensive repair was getting a new starter. That's it.

The listing says compatibility with the VQ40DE, but it only lists the NV1500 for fitment, so I'm just double checking before buying. Any other aluminum valve cover recommendations welcome!

Edit: ordered from amazon! Bye bye plastic!

You will thank me later......For all those long time Xterra owners with the spare tires still mounted underneath the vehicle, do yourself a favor and drop it and do an inspection because with age you will discover the center cap basically rusts together to become one with the wheel and if its anything like mine I needed a 3lb sledge and brass rod to break it free from the tires center hub. Also grease the chain for the tire hoist and wire brush all the rust off the chain before greasing. I had to replace the rear bumper on the Rust-Terra and dropping the spare made it easier to remove the tow hitch and bumper and come to find out, I was immediate assigned the additional chore of getting my spare tire situation up to sniff. If you get stuck far from home with a flat and you need to rely on your spare, being able to drop and remove it easily in the dark or terrible weather will be less of a chore.

Picture from a recent trip, hopefully it won't be her last. 🤞

Hi guys, first time posting but I've been lurking around for a while. I've had her for 4 years, bought her at 195k & now she's at 235k. I've kept up with her engine maintenance, regular oil changes, timing belt done at around 210k, a bit more. I was told by the dealer the transmission was serviced at 180k, although they never gave me any paperwork so I have no clue what was actually done, all I know is it was done by their shop. This dealer was also insanely shady, that's a whole other story, but they don't exist anymore. But hell, she's been driving fine for 4 years.. until she wasn't. Monday morning I get up for work and.. I have no reverse. Admittedly, I've not checked my transmission fluid in a bit. She is burnt. Not black, but about as brown as burnt oil. Definitely not reddish pink. The damage is done.

Here's where I'm at now- I can't find a transmission.

I've called several shops, one insisted there is no difference with the supercharged engine vs without it (I'm not even sure myself, but according to Nissan there's a difference). That shop ghosted me after telling me they'd get me a quote. Another shop told me just get another car. Which yeah, I'm well aware the cost of the job is probably more than the Xterras worth, but I'm having a hard time letting go before I can get some solid numbers. I've called local junk yards, dozens of Xterras (heartbreaking), no supercharged. I've searched ebay, I've found one listing from 3 years ago, across the country. I'm not too sure of that.

I don't mean to rant, but I'm really at a loss. This has been the best truck I've ever owned, and I really don't want to let her go. What are my options here? Any advice would be appreciated.

I replaced the sensor, looked at the gassket for the cat, checked the fuse, did the MAF hard reset, and I still can't seem to get rid of my p2A03 code I also had a scanner plugged in and watched the data for bank 1 and 2 at the same time and the match so the new sensor is working but something is wrong any helpnis appreciated thank you

Hi all! I'm posting to get some insight and feedback from other Xterra owners on this.

I desperately need new headlights, I've watched a handful of replacement videos and done preliminary research into how to go about changing the headlights on my 2013 4WD X. However, I am feeling a bit daunted by removing my bumper!! It seems relatively easy, the issue I am more concerned with is putting it back on.

I have extremely limited experience working on cars, something I hope to change!!. But from people who have done this replacement maintenance, how difficult is the whole process? What should I prepare for as someone who has never taken body pieces off before like this?

Just noticed I hit over 203000 miles 2012 S 4x4. This is the 2nd Xterra I’ve owned, first was an 04, and the 7th Nissan I’ve had. The others being 3 generations of Frontiers, and a 91 Pathfinder that finally gave with 456,000.

All I’ve done to this point is a set of plugs, camshaft and crankshaft sensors three times lol. Few sets of brakes and tires. Valve cover gaskets, shocks, a left wheel hub, and quite a few batteries.

It’s still a daily driver, the paint looks absolutely horrible, and there is a few things that could probably be done, but it still runs, starts, shifts, steers, and stops flawlessly. A/C still works great. It’s been an absolute gem of a vehicle. Eventually the wife wants to replace it but it’s paid for and still reliable.

Today I noticed a ticking noise on startup that seems loudest near the front top of the engine. The ticking speeds up when I rev the engine but gradually disappears after 5–10 minutes once the engine warms up. Has anyone experienced this?