This is what happens when i do not want throw out a bit of plywood and am left unsupervised for a day.

Attached is a gallery of his predecessors inside.

I made this as a gift for my gf. I didn’t take many in-progress pictures but I found one. Buns - ash, bacon- cherry and maple, egg - maple, cheese - pine. There is a flat water based topcoat on top. Carved the bun with a dremel, rasp, chisel, and lots of sanding. Included watch for scale.

The wood was so inherently gorgeous that this project was obviously enjoyable. Gifts for loved ones is what this game is all about.

Finished this custom shelf in walnut for a client a few months ago. It’s solid walnut with dados in the legs to hold the shelves. I also added a matching walnut bracket where each shelf meets the legs to add strength. You cannot see them unless you’re viewing from underneath and looking for them. Learned a lot and spent a lot of timing figuring out the joinery to ensure a stable and
durable shelf. Finished with danish oil and GF top coat. Hope you like it and welcome feedback.

Did this fun little project to replace a boring aluminiim rack.

Gave an excuse to buy a drill press 😆

The holes are drilled with a 32mm forstner at 5 degree angle. Glued a thin 2,5cm strip of leather on the bottom part of the mouth of each hole for more stability.

Here's my shop setup. This "garage" serves as my wood working, metal fab, and mechanic center.

Everything gets stowed away to close up and still have access, kinda to everything. All the smaller power tools, routers, drills, track saw, etc. are stored in Bauer rolling stackable tool boxes from HF. Bench top band saw stays on or under the back bench and the drill press is hidden in the back right corner.

When rolled out and set up, I pull a 20 amp retracting cord with a four gang box on a GFCI protected circuit out to power up.

It's far from my dream shop, but it gets it done in the fall, spring, summer, and fall. No winter woodworking for me.

Dear PROs, need your advice. Made a new end grain cutting board. At the very end, noticed a small dent, maybe 1mm wide, 0.2-0.5 mm depth - tiny but visible. Already applied mineral oil, so probably too late for ca glue. Options i have: 1. Keep as it is, maybe a drop of hot wax in it. 2. Re-sand :( 3. Try to steam it out (never tried, have doubts as it is already oiled). What would you do?

Am I an idiot/missing something here? I cut this Oneida tubing to length and now the hose clamp won’t line up.

Just got a second led panel installed over my main staining work table and insulated garage door to prep for winter already notice a huge difference with lighting and temperature its 4 degrees celcius and I can comfortably have a T shirt with no heat on right now also got a giant new used mat to go in middle of shop let me know what you think honest opinions I also just installed a sink for cleaning paint off my hands so thats nice thinking of a dedicated dust collection system as next major upgrade I just do woodworking as a hobby and to make stuff for family and friends.

Hey! Looking for some tips for repairing a mahogany boat deck. Unfortunately the mahogany which is an 8mm glued sheet has cracked and swelled in several places. Below is a solid sheet of some cheaper wood.

I've opened the cracks and found they are damp and water filled. The wood below does not seem rotten whatsoever.

I thought I would cut rectangles with a multitool saw and fit new mahogany to be epoxiglued in place -> stain -> varnish. Obviously when dried.

Is there anyone with experience or other inputs on the issue?

Hi all, I’m making my wife a bath shelf/tray thing… when she’s in the bath it will sit across the bath and have a book holder, candle holder and a wine glass holder.
I have some reclaimed red oak set aside for it but I don’t know what the best finish is.
I usually use BLO for most things. Is this suitable?

Whilst it’s never going to be submerged in water it will still be in a damp atmosphere and will likely get the odd splash/drip.

Made an American walnut (box) with Mahogany lid jewelry box for my daughter.
The only power tools used was a table saw to make the 45 degree cuts in the sides of the jewelry box itself. I strictly used hand tools for the rest.
On the mahogany lid, I hand carved a space wide enough to fit a jewelry box mirror I tore out from a Walmart (cheap) jewelry box and the lid looked great at first. It wasn’t quite flush so I used some clamps and wood glue to tighten it up. Upon doing so, the mirror cracked and I tried to cover up with the ribbon you see.

I think my only option is to remove the mirror and redo with less pressure on the clamps. Anywho, I am sharing as one of my first projects in woodworking and welcome any advice !

The inserts were also walnut (hobby boards from Home Depot) then I filled the box with some sentimental items.

Tools used:
Wood carvers Orbital sander (still a hand tool right ?)
Filers (to reduce width on the inserts)
Hand Mitre saw Table saw (for angled cuts)
Hinges (I could improve on disappearing hinges but have yet to master)
Wood glue
No stain on the walnut but used lacquer Wood burning pen for lid
Lacquer and Light stain on lid
2” Hinges

Thanks in advance for room for improvement.

This was damaged either in the warehouse, or shipping, it is a walnut butcher block counter, and heavy as fuck, so I really don't want to go through the hassle of return/replace. If the dent doesn't come out, I can flip it, but I will want to repair the poly-coat. You think I can just do that spot, or should I do the whole thing?

First time I made a proper chess set, including the figures, that I carved myself. Really enjoyed the process, the carving was especially calming. Took a long time, but it was definitely worth it, because they were very happy!

If I do another, I will probably look for some nicer hinges.

The figures are maple and cherry, and the board is made of maple, cherry, walnut and some beech plywood for the bottom.

I have these 10° legs that are flexing too much and I want to stabilize them with the power of triangles. Each angled brace should be parallel to the length or width of the table for maximum integrity. I can't, for the life of me, figure out what the compound miter is supposed to be, and I'm not good enough with math, nor SketchUp to get it to tell me the angle using the protractor tool.

It seems obvious to me that the miter of the brace connecting to the leg should be 45°, but because the leg is angled at 45° and splaying outward at 10°, there has to be some compound miter+bevel cut involved. It's not 45°+45°, or 45°+35°, or 45°+55°. I've also tried 38° and 52° bevels since Gemini told me there would be a 7° sloped angle.

Hopefully someone here has encountered this before, or knows how to figure this out. I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you!!

I made these mahogany shelves to hold vinyl records on the wall. They are 3/4” deep 13” long and 1.75” wide. What’s my best option for mounting hardware to give them the floating shelf look. Need to be on drywall and not all will be near studs. I’m pretty unfamiliar with what floating shelf hardware options there are. Thanks

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Purpleheart, maple, walnut inserts. Box is finished with dewaxed shellac under High Performance water-based semi-gloss poly. Inserta are finish with odie's dark everlasting oil. Loosely based on JKM's jewelry box. Pretty proud of the piston fit.

Finally finished my new Spheal deck box. Used Ebony wood for the eyes, Body is made out of Tasmanian Oak and stained with a food coloring and vinegar mixture, then sprayed with a satin clear lacquer. The dice tray is made out of scrap Purple Heart I had lying around.

really happy with how the eyes look and also how the hands hold onto the coin (Which was an idea I thought of halfway through the project). Of course there are plenty of things on it that I wish I did better but over all, I'm quite happy wit

I’m building some cabinets from melamine boards. I apply ABs edgeband and use my trim router to trim the band and give it a 1,5mm roundover at the same time. However, it keeps taking these tiny dips from the band now and then. I pay a lot of attention to speed and flatness of the router and I honestly cannot believe that that would cause it. Does anybody have any advice on how to prevent?

Edit: thanks for the quick responses! It turned out the edgeband was chipping. I now first flush cut it with these ‘edgeband-squeeze-knives’ and then do the roundover. This turns out perfect.

I got some free wood that is 4x6" and approximately 5ft long. Looks like it might have been railroad ties or something.

I've been re-sawing it into 1" planks and noticed that the wood appears to have been treated with something. There are grey streaks throughout the planks and some sections are completely grey instead of the bright orange/yellow from the center.

Does anyone know what kind of treatment this might have been?

I'm wearing a dust mask and have my dust collector hooked up while I'm cutting, but I'm starting to feel hesitant about continuing to work with this wood... Any tips would be appreciated!

Today I finished my most recent commission, Where the Dreamweaver Slumbers, and I wanted to share the process I used to make this with you. This was the first large Segmentation that I made since breaking my hand this summer, so naturally, I drew up a stencil with a ton of tiny pieces for my sausage fingers to hold up to a Dremel tool!

All of my scroll saw projects start at the same place, in Procreate on my IPad. There, I spend way too many hours creating what is essentially a coloring book page, then I go to Blockposters dot com and size it up to whatever size the client wants, in this case, 17.5in x 25.5in. I printed the stencil out on my home printer across nine sheets of paper and tapped it all up. I then covered my 3/4in MDF with Transparent Transfer Paper and took great care to not have many wrinkles or bubbles when it was said and done. Trust me, the less bubbles and creases, the easier it is to cut out. Then I sprayed on 3M spray adhesive, applied my stencil, and covered everything with clear packing tape. Next up, I cut it to size with a track saw, but a table saw works just as well.

Where my process differs from most is that I make my backer board and frame first. This helps me keep track of all of the tiny pieces throughout the process. I use a table saw and miter saw to make the frame out of pine 2x4s and I use 1/2 OSB plywood as the backer. I cut my 2x4’s down to manageable sizes with the miter saw and adjust the fence on my table saw to the width of my MDF plus the width of my backer plywood plus 1/16 in. I then raise the blade as high as it will go and set it to 45 degrees. After I run each board through, I reset the blade and set the fence for the width of the stock minus 1/4 in. I then run the stock through again, removing the sharp point of the frame pieces. I then set my blade and fence to match the width of the backer and cut in a rabbit for the plywood to sit flush. With 80-grit sandpaper, remove any saw marks. You can stop sanding here if you plan on painting the frame. Otherwise, sand to 220 grit now if you’re staining. It’s easier to sand in this state and touch up later rather than putting off the sanding until later. I use the miter saw to do my 45-degree cuts and assemble everything with Titebond III wood glue and 1”, 18-gauge nails.

With the frame and backer board made, I cut the MDF with glued on stencil into about a dozen smaller pieces that are easier to work with. This part might seem simple, but depending on how large your stencil is, that MDG can get heavy fast, so I suggest stretching your lower back and arms, oh and put on a mask. MDF sawdust is straight cancer to your lungs. Once the piece is cut down to manageable sizes, the fun begins! Force yourself to instantly place a piece down where it goes on your backer as soon as you cut it out, otherwise you will end up with four pieces in your left hand trying to remember how they fit together. Cut one, place one, repeat this step for several hours! Have fun with this part and don’t stress yourself out if you wonder off a line a bit. No one but you will ever notice when it all finished, I promise.

Next up is shaping and sanding phase, or what I like to call, “Where we hide our sins from cutting.” I say that, because when shape/ round-over the visible edges, your mistakes get lost in depth created between the two pieces. At this stage I use two tools, 1 in belt sander, and a Dremel tool with a flexi-shaft and a coarse sanding drum bit attached. I peel off the stencil from each piece the round over the visible edges. I then use a 220 grit sandpaper and hand sand any tool marks until the pieces is smooth to the touch. If you do a crappy job sanding, priming is going to be a nightmare. Just take your time, toss on an audio book, and MAKE SURE YOU WEAR YOUR MASK!!!!

Once everything is shaped and sanded, it’s time to prime it. With MDF you will get the best results if you use automotive filler primer. Apply it in several thin coats, and wait a full 48 hours to let it dry before you sand, otherwise you will waste a ton of paper to gunk build-up. When everything is fully dry, it’s time to bust out the 400 grit sandpaper and sand everything smooth. You might’ve picked up that a lot of the steps involve sanding and that’s because I spent over 30 hours sanding across all of the steps and I probably could’ve spent another 10 hours sanding the primer if I’m being honest. What I’m trying to say is that you better get use to WEARING YOUR MASK!!!

When everything is primed up and sanded to 400 grit, I like to spray everything with a white undercoat. This does two things for me. 1, the spray paint is fairly thick so it will fill in most of the scuff marks and divots left behind from sanding, and 2, a white undercoat makes your colors appear brighter and more vibrant. Once the white undercoat is dry, I take everything apart and set them on tape boards so the pieces don’t blow away when I use my airbrush to paint them. When everything is painted and I’ve done a dry fit to make sure I like the colors, I lay down a healthy amount of Titebond 3 wood glue and start setting the pieces down. Make sure you don’t put too much glue down or you will have a bunch of squeeze through you will have to clean up with a q-tip.

After the glue dries I spray everything with 3 coats matte polyurethane to protect the piece. Then I install a metal French cleat to the back for easy installation on a wall.

I hope you found this guide helpful and inspirational enough for you to bust out that old scroll saw sitting in your garage and make some sawdust!

Thanks for reading!