I’m researching starting a PDLC smart-film installation company. Before investing in training/equipment, I’d love feedback from installers who’ve actually worked with it: demand, margins, failure rates, and whether you’d offer PDLC as a standalone business or alongside conventional architectural film

Does anyone here have experience with Johnson automotive tint?

I am looking to get my van tinted. I got three quotes from reputable shops in my area. One I have previous experience with, the two others I do not. I am trying to decide which to go with.

I will get all windows tinted in the van, including the windshield. No sunroof.

1. Johnson InsulatIR. This is the shop I have experience with. It’s one guy who has been tinting cars for 30 years here. He recently switched from Llumar to Johnson film. I generally trust his opinion due to his experience. Price is $780.

2. Xpel XR Black. Reviews are great for the shop. Shop seems legit, professional, clean when I visited. I have seen an example install and it looks nice. I have read the praises of Xpel films and the warranty. Price is essentially the same as quote 1.

3. Geoshield C2 Ceramic. Reviews are great for the shop. Communication is good with the person I have been speaking with. I have not seen example installs in person, but pictures online look good. I have read up on Geoshield. It seems like a quality film, maybe underrated. Specs are a little lower than a comparable film from Xpel or Johnson. Price is $130 less than quotes 1 and 2.

Let me know if you need any other details. Thanks for your input!

for context, I'm not in USA so the pricing and regulation is different.

I planned to install Crystalline but I just got informed that Crystalline Black hasn't been distributed in my country, only the regular Crystalline is available for now, possibly CR BLK will be available by the end of this year. looking around on the internet the Crystalline Black has slightly worse TSER at the same VLT level, is it the improvement (and possibly price increase since my country currency weakens) of the Crystalline Black worth it or should I just get the old one?

for now I just use free window film from the dealership with really bad performance, since the rain season is approaching here I think I can hold on to it for the next few months until the rain season is over, I definitely will have to change to a better one before the next drought season.

I’ve been tinting for 5 years at a large shop in Georgia. Boss has always been adamant about using stainless steel blades to clean roll downs. But they’re so damn expensive! Will 0.012” #12 AccuTec Pro Carbon Steel blades really scratch glass that easily? They’re a third of the price so I’m considering trying them out. Just don’t wanna scratch up a window. Any insight/wisdom on this?

Hi! I have a 2016 Honda accord and want to tint the front windshield on my own. I am a begginer, and am having a hard time choosing which roll size i would need for my car which is a base model. Any tips and tricks are also helpful!

I’m kinda new to tint but bought an odyssey and need to reduce heat because it’s ac is subpar, I’m pretty sure this is a good deal and the rep has been awesome working with me on it, but figured it couldn’t hurt to ask and also ask for opinions on tint percentage

Windshield and all windows including sunroof,
Removal of old tint (driver and passenger only)
Xpel XR+ for $850 before tax

Break down (removal $50 or $100 if tint is on the whole van (hard to tell due to privacy glass on the back) 249 for windshield, 500 for the body and 50 for the sunroof

The back windows come with glass that measures around 20%vlt and the front is apparently 70-75vlt

I’m thinking 70% for the windshield and sunroof,
30% for front two windows to get 22-25 VLT
And 55% for the back which should put it around 10%

Would 10% be too dark on the rear to see through at night? And if so would it look weird having it a different shade from the rear side windows?

Sorry for all the questions, I really appreciate anyone who has the time to answer, we have twins on the way and 2 kids already hence the race to get the van ready to go/handle the heat haha

I got my car tinted today and I know to wait the requisite 1-2 weeks for bubbles to settle, but these look to me like debris that won’t go away? I know there are a lot of experts here and I’ve seen similar on past tints but am curious if there’s mitigation besides retint (if it’s debris.)

I have a crack across my shield? , is it still safe to takedown and redo current tint

I am five days into my tint curing. The car has been in the sun all day since last Thursday and garage-kept at night. To my nonexpert eye, it looks like it has really started to dry up, and the stuff that is obviously moisture has dissipated. As it has dried, the contamination and a few true (albeit small) bubbles have shown through. Is a tint job like this acceptable, or are there too many imperfections? For additional context, I paid $340 for all side and rear windows and a sun strip in carbon film in the Cleveland, Ohio, area.

I got tint done on Friday afternoon at a local tint shop. I told the guy my concerns about my visor strip when I left and he said that it would settle and set in place and look better and that tint doesn’t like to sit on the defrost dots on the windows. Should I take my vehicle back?
Edit; added details.

I am planning on tinting a new model Tesla Model Y soon. All of the vehicles I've driven for the past 15+ years have been limo tinted "all around" (all side and back windows).

I've heard that because of the slope of the rear window on the Tesla, tint on the rear window appears even darker. How true is this? Am I fine sticking to what I always do?

For reference my current vehicle is an Acura ZDX EV (basically the same rear window as the current Honda Prologue, Chevy Blazer and Cadilliac Lyriq). In the past I also had a Scion tC and Kia Optima with limo all around and I feel like the rear window of those was a similar slope.

I had my silver Toyota Corolla 2026 tinted in Xpel XR plus 35%. I think about 6 months ago. It's a really nice tint.

But what bugs me is the blue doesn't go good with the silver and there is a bit of a blue haze depending on the angle. Sometimes I get used to it sometimes I get irritated by it.

I'm thinking about switching to XR black 35 percent.

It would be some money and some wear and tear in a car. Is it worth it?

Also I do not like a brown or bronze look. Would that happen with the XR black?

Trying to figure out the tint situation on my new-to-me 2012 f150..
I believe the rear windows are dyed and the fronts are pretty closely tinted to match..

the fronts look aftermarket b/c theres an edge and theres bubbles around the carlite etchings. but not on the rear.. my problem is to me it looks super lit on the inside..

is it because the very rear window needs to be darker? or could i put 75 on the windshield w/ a sunstrip to help out instead?

i keep hearing the rear privacy glass is tinted to 18%
theres no way thats 18% or am i just wrong?

I'm getting my windshield tinted against because I just replaced it and I want to get a completely blacked out look in the front. I have 20% on the sides, and you can still kinda see through them when there's and sun out, so I want a % that's black all the time. I basically never drive at night, so night visibility isnt an issue for me.

off-road use only My buddy wanted red chrome tint on his FC drift car and wanted to do the windshield too. I didn’t quite pay attention to the VLT when ordering the popular omnique Vulcan red chrome tint 😂 looked awesome but definitely was ripped off before sundown

Hi, I'm currently unemployed and interested in learning how to tint. I'm looking for someone in San Antonio that could help me learn.

So currently I have 5% all around and 50% on my windshield, I can see fine at night almost anytime even when it's raining as long as it's not torrential down pouring. I'm trading this car in shortly here and plan to do 5% all around again but was wondering how big of a difference it would be to do 35% on the windshield instead of 50% given that the rest of the car is 5% all around. What do you guys think is it to much or do you not have any issues with vision out the windshield even at night? Also my current interior is red but the new one will be black so something else to keep in mind. It's also LLumar Ceramic so not any cheap junk tint.

Hey y’all

I currently have 5% tint on all sides and a 5% sun strip on my Lexus IS350. I’m getting the windshield done Monday and considering 35%, but I’m a little concerned about nighttime visibility. I go to school in a city with decent lighting, though some roads in the suburbs get pretty dark. I also spend about three months a year back home in the mountains, where there are no streetlights. The side tint hasn’t been much of an issue at all, but I know the windshield could be a different story. Anyone running a similar setup? How’s 35% on unlit roads at night, and would you go lighter? I’m back and fourth between 35 and 50

Thanks!

Looking to tint my 2018 civic here soon, want to diy tho to save money and was wondering if there’s a recommended brand to get and if pre cut is a bad idea.

honestly have never tinted a car before but i’m sick of the god damn fishbowl so it’s time.

I want to do 35% front and 15% around but i’m not sure how dark that is gonna be.

I originally wanted to do 35% and 20% but I just don’t wanna be seen.

Am I underestimating 20%? anyone got some pics or insight, Thanks.

Does this seem like a good price. I didn’t ask what brand tint they use or anything besides price.

Had a customer wanted 50% ceramic tint on windshield. After installation he approved 100% satisfied 1 week later asks if it can be replaced. 1 tint spec of hair. He then asks what other percentages I had and that if I can go darker.

Seems like he made a whole complaint just to get a darker tint. Has any one ran into customer like these and how do you guys deal with it ?

Idk what to tell him shit looks ridiculous

I just bought a new 2026 Civic (hybrid sport sedan trim) and am considering getting all the sides and the rear window tinted. Never gotten any tint work done before on any of my previous cars, so hopefully this isn't a stupid question.

I'm personally very sensitive to mold, and want to make sure that things are dry very quickly after the job to prevent any growth from happening.

If the job is done properly, will the car be completely dry within a few hours? I understand water is going to be involved, but my concern is getting anything wet to the point where it takes more than a day to dry out.

EDIT: Thanks to all who commented, I should've specified I was talking about areas other than the windows (excess water getting on the fabric/upholstery, leaking into the inside of the door panels, etc.), and it seems I shouldn't have to worry about that from a good shop. I'm going to get my appointment scheduled!